Guns Thread

Hoss

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First time posting in this thread!

So I bought a marlin 1895 gbl late last Fall. I shot it for giggles with my friends a couple of times at small distances shooting bottles and stuff, seemed like it shot a little low. Finally got to the range last weekend, I aimed at the 50 yard target but shot the 25 yard one...

Even with the rear sight up to its maximum position, I still shot a couple inches low even at the 25 yard target. Official at the range suggested that I put a scope on it, so I ordered a rail mount this weekend. Is this the right solution? What do you guys think I should do? I'm not real hot on contacting the online seller of the gun considering I bought it 6 months ago (I know I fucked up and should have got to the range earlier). If a scope is the right solution, what should I go with? 100-150$ would be my budget.
45-70 drops a lot, but it's a long range round and you should try shooting it at 100 yards before doing anything drastic. You don't tell us much about where the 25 and 50 yard target are in relation to each other. Does the marlin manual suggest a distance for sighting in? If the gun wasn't new, does the front sight look like it was replaced with a taller one?

I'd go with a peep sight on the tang. Like this, or find one that's taller. The taller the sight the further you can shoot.
 

GeneralF

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45-70 drops a lot, but it's a long range round and you should try shooting it at 100 yards before doing anything drastic. You don't tell us much about where the 25 and 50 yard target are in relation to each other. Does the marlin manual suggest a distance for sighting in? If the gun wasn't new, does the front sight look like it was replaced with a taller one?

I'd go with a peep sight on the tang. Like this, or find one that's taller. The taller the sight the further you can shoot.
Thanks for helping out. The gun was new, bought last fall on sale but just got to the range last week. Looking at pictures online, it seems like the correct sights are on it. Considering that I shot the lower, 25 yard target when I aimed at the 50 yard one I did not try the 100 yard target. I can tell you that my face was red enough after sending 25$ of ammo downrange and then seeing zero holes on the sheet! (will bring binoculars next time, sure learned my lesson!)

The manual does not suggest a range for sighting in. The taller sight you have suggested seems like a good solution. Also while digging online I've noticed that it seems a common problem (might be that the barrel is misaligned), and some people have simply shaved their front sight, so I might try that too. Also my rail is coming from the US (I'm in Canadia) so the scope/red dot is another solution.
 

Hoss

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I was going to suggest shaving the front sight but that's extreme for a new rifle. However, marlin has been having some quality problems lately, and if other people are having the same issue, might as well try it. I'd be hesitant for fear of fucking it up. But if you're planning to get a scope anyway, go for it.

Do you have any idea how much to shave off? If you know how low you were shooting and what your sight radius is, you can do some math to figure out how many mills to take off.
 

GeneralF

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I was going to suggest shaving the front sight but that's extreme for a new rifle. However, marlin has been having some quality problems lately, and if other people are having the same issue, might as well try it. I'd be hesitant for fear of fucking it up. But if you're planning to get a scope anyway, go for it.

Do you have any idea how much to shave off? If you know how low you were shooting and what your sight radius is, you can do some math to figure out how many mills to take off.
I thought of going to the cabin on crown lands and shave it off a bit at a time. I am hesitant of doing it though, but it's a 0$ solution. Otherwise I'm gonna do some overtime and get a good scope, but not good enough that the girlfriend would kill me when she finds out how much I paid for it. I see a lot of people putting a Leupold on it and that would definitely be in that category!


This one has good reviews and will be in my price range. (it's in Canadian bucks) I'm a fucking amateur at this though, might just go to the local gun store and ask the guy there.
 

Sludig

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I thought of going to the cabin on crown lands and shave it off a bit at a time. I am hesitant of doing it though, but it's a 0$ solution. Otherwise I'm gonna do some overtime and get a good scope, but not good enough that the girlfriend would kill me when she finds out how much I paid for it. I see a lot of people putting a Leupold on it and that would definitely be in that category!


This one has good reviews and will be in my price range. (it's in Canadian bucks) I'm a fucking amateur at this though, might just go to the local gun store and ask the guy there.
You'll find most serious serious gun enthusiasts think 95% od gun stores employees are ignorant aids. At least in the US.

Leopold are fine, you might save some looking at primary arms. They are the gold standard for middle range quality/ price and great CS. Vortex great too but certainly pricier. If you shop red dots, Burris is another great cheap but solid brand. Worth the extra $10 over no name no service amazon garbage.
 

Sludig

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Any opinions?
Gun Review: Arex REX zero 1T 9mm Pistol - The Truth About Guns


I like that compared to the tp9sfx, ir had a threaded barrel. But a few hundred more would cover a replacement barrel on canik and doesn't have the wonderful trigger.

Granted threaded might be dumb since i want a comp not a suppressor. But most pistols im interested in sound like they have trouble with brake/comps.
 

Kiki

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I love their 4-14s. So cheap for a FFP scope, I've bought 3 blemished for even cheaper. I even run one on the scar17 in a DMR setup. Buy the throwlever and call it a day.

I'm looking at PVD bolt carrier groups. Looks easy as hell clean up and would be good for some of my dirtier/longer use applications.
Gear Review: Cryptic Coatings Bolt Carrier Group - The Truth About Guns
 

mkopec

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My thought process about bolts is get the cheapest you can (still mil spec obv). and if they fuck up, just get a new one. Gun cleaning is gun cleaning, your shit gets dirty, especially in AR. Spray that shit down, walk away, wipe up in 20.

Havent had that many, but all the bolts I had never broke, even using some hotter handloads in my AR.
 

Kiki

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Not worried really about them breaking. I really want one more for being able to shoot longer with less lubrication before an AR stops feeding reliably. The cleanup is just a side benefit.
 

Vepil

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My stock daniel defense bolt was able to go almost 950 rounds suppressed before I finally had a case fail to eject. Was stuck in the breech and I had run a dowel down to finally pop it out. Sprayed the rifle and bolt down with some rem oil and started right back up mag dumping. I was very surprised the bolt made it that long without a relube. I have an Aim Surplus Nickle Boron coated bolt to give a try next outing to see how that coating will work.
 

Fadaar

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My Ruger SR556 hasn't been cleaned in god knows how long, still goes bang like a champ every range visit.
 

mkopec

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I finally cleaned up my AR just this past weekend with like 800+ rounds through it.
 

Vepil

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To be fair we were shooting the crappy Tula steel case crap since it was super cheap lol
 

Xadion

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Watched that build of an AR...

All within my skill level, just need all the tools and clamp blocks etc. I am sure there are kits on amazon.

Will be fun to have "made" my rifle. Thanks for all the links and help!
 

lower case g

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Sootch used to have a video where he did a build without using a lot of the special tools. For instance, he used a roll of duct tape to hold the lower instead of a vice and block. I can't seem to find it, so I wonder if he took it down because of Youtubes new policies on firearm build videos.
 

Scoresby

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Watched that build of an AR...

All within my skill level, just need all the tools and clamp blocks etc. I am sure there are kits on amazon.

Will be fun to have "made" my rifle. Thanks for all the links and help!
The vice block and barrel nut wrench are the two big specialty tools that come to mind.

A vice
Metric allen wrenches
A set of pin punches
Small ball peen hammer (most any small hammer will do)

It's not as bad as you think to do. Lots of guides online. Do eet!
 

GeneralF

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You'll find most serious serious gun enthusiasts think 95% od gun stores employees are ignorant aids. At least in the US.

Leopold are fine, you might save some looking at primary arms. They are the gold standard for middle range quality/ price and great CS. Vortex great too but certainly pricier. If you shop red dots, Burris is another great cheap but solid brand. Worth the extra $10 over no name no service amazon garbage.
Thanks!
 

Ignatius

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Vice and barrel nut wrench are the most important. You definitely want to make sure that barrel is nice and snug, but not too snug...going off memory I think it's a minimum of ~30ft lbs and the max is somewhere around 70?

The vice makes everything way easier since you'll have a stable platform to work off of. If you don't want to buy a mag block, you can ghetto rig it with some cardboard around the receiver you are working on to prevent marring. Also, highly recommend not doing it over carpet. I'm ashamed to admit how many roll pins and springs I've lost over the years.

Depending on the receiver you buy, you might be able to skip the more annoying parts. The lowers I tend to use are billets from Runner Runner Guns and they use screws for things like the safety detent and the bolt release.
 

mkopec

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Vice is more for the upper. Its definitely required there for the barrel nut and muzzle device. But the lowers I build up at my kitchen table with a piece of cardboard as a work surface. You do not need a vice block or vice for lower. Sure its nice to have a stable platform but definitely not necessary. You need AR wrench and roll pin punch set and small hammer. I use painters tape not to mar the lower when doing some of the pins.