3d Printing and the Future of Piracy

Captain Suave

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I had a 3d printer 10 years ago or so. Its definitely a fun toy/STEM thingy, but i always roll my eyes when people say there's some sort of financial benefit (for most things).

If you want to make your own stuff, get one and enjoy it. If you think its cheaper than [whatever], its probably not.

I've had one for a while. Made a few bits and bobs. I'm hundreds of dollars in the hole compared to buying import industrial injection moulded parts. It's fun, though, and having the tools around enticed my then-10 year old son to learn CAD on his own. Totally worth it.
 
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Drajakur

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Thanks guys. Really appreciate the insights and recommendations. I'll look into AnyCubic and go from there.

Two things I picked up on will continue to bother me: (A) Toxicity. Doesn't seem like this is something I can just dismiss. I'll be using this in a pretty confined space so have to think more about extraction. (B) Myth of financial benefit. I have these grand ideas of saving all this money over time making my own shit but, well, it sounds like that is a pretty common trap :).

I get my bonus end of May and will probably make the final decision then :).

Thanks again!
 

Soygen

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I had a 3d printer 10 years ago or so. Its definitely a fun toy/STEM thingy, but i always roll my eyes when people say there's some sort of financial benefit (for most things).

If you want to make your own stuff, get one and enjoy it. If you think its cheaper than [whatever], its probably not.
Oh I can't argue with that. I don't use them for any kind of savings. It's definitely because it's more fun to use them vs buying a replacement part. I'm not a brokie, so I don't care about saving money. You have to be at least a level 5 autist to really enjoy it, though.
 

Pasteton

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Has any of this shit been made more gooderer with AI stuff or is it completely unrelated ?
 

BrutulTM

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This guy made something sort of useful on his 3d printer.

 

Soygen

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Here's something I built this week, which I think falls into the "useful" category. Built a new NAS for my network and 3D printed the case for it. This model is designed really well. Went together perfectly and has a lot of modularity/customizing you can do. I did this in ABS.


1748805091390.jpeg
 
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Haus

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Thanks guys. Really appreciate the insights and recommendations. I'll look into AnyCubic and go from there.

Two things I picked up on will continue to bother me: (A) Toxicity. Doesn't seem like this is something I can just dismiss. I'll be using this in a pretty confined space so have to think more about extraction. (B) Myth of financial benefit. I have these grand ideas of saving all this money over time making my own shit but, well, it sounds like that is a pretty common trap :).

I get my bonus end of May and will probably make the final decision then :).

Thanks again!
To chip in a little on this topic.

I have an OG AnyCubic Photon. I don't do any special ventilation for it outside that my workshop has a small 4" vent fan in the celling which I turn on around half the time. As for toxicity, I do stock up on nitrile gloves and wear those when I'm taking prints off the plate, finishing prints, loading resin, etc. But it honestly hasn't been that big an issue. Resin printing is far more "mad science project" than FDM printing. But I do also find that if I want real quality prototyping then resin is the way to go (use a "tough" resin, or one labeled "ABS-like" to nice durable sturdy prints. )

I also have an Ender5 Pro for my FDM needs. It still gets some regular use. But also I have grown tired of tuning for one filament versus another, and I've started having issues lately with feeding and clogs so I'm finding myself just using it for bigger things I want to print. Right now in fact I have a new extruder direct drive rig to put on it to hopefully be the final solution to some feeding issues and intermittent under-extrusion I've been wrestling with. I think my real end game for FDM will end up being splurging the cash on one of those new Bambu X1s. I have a friend with one and it's stupidly easy to get very good quality prints out of it.

"Profitable" 3d printing. This CAN be done, but for the vast majority of us hobbiest level enthusiasts it just takes too much time, space, and investment to make a "mini fab shop" and start cranking out profitable prints. If you have fun with this, get into it, but don't be expecting to make money, or honestly even really pay for the hobby. With that said I have made a few parts, bits, and bobs around the house with the printers which would have been a pain to find/source elsewhere. (like a holder using magnets to stick on the fridge and hold my Mio bottles.) If you want to leverage this get good at some form of basic CAD at a minimum (like TinkerCad), or a better modeling software package to do fancy stuff.
 
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Control

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"Profitable" 3d printing. This CAN be done, but for the vast majority of us hobbiest level enthusiasts it just takes too much time, space, and investment to make a "mini fab shop" and start cranking out profitable prints.
I think it's the same problem any time you try to combine "profitable" and "enthusiast". The profitable part means you need to have a product that people want to buy, but the enthusiast part is usually just the means of getting there, which is a whole lot less interesting and exciting than the enthusiast part in and of itself. (There's overlap sometimes, and some people manage to make it work of course.) I see a lot of little niche businesses selling stuff that's 3d printed, but the prints aren't really the product itself. They're just one piece to the puzzle of solving a different problem (mounting brackets, specialized cases, etc.). And the printed piece could likely be better solved a different way if the volume was significant enough. These seem like exactly the kinds of things that 3d printing is great at, but they don't exactly sound like the kind of thing an enthusiast would want to start a business doing.

I guess I thought about this because I've been poking at some retro gaming things lately, so I've bought a few related products with 3d printed parts. They're perfect for the issue they're trying to solve (specialized, low volume, no reasonable alternative), but they're products you would only know/care about if you were a retro gaming enthusiast who then used 3d printing to help solve a problem (obviously made easier if you're also into 3d printing). So there's got to be a lot of crossing the streams to make it profitable, I would imagine. Although, there's probably a pretty good business in just tracking down lots of random, old parts that are unbuyable and selling replacements. I'm sure some people do that, but it doesn't sound very fun, which goes back to the original issue.
 

Haus

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OK.... With my Ender5 Pro (which I have loved for years) I have been having extrusion issues lately, a surprising number of clogs, and then massive underextrustion....

I decided to give in and throw money at my problem :

This is a combo of direct drive extruder, plus an all metal hot end.

I had previously replaced the whole hot end with a new Creality factory standard for this printer and it didn't really help, which made me think it was the extruder somehow.

All I can say is.. WOW. Was it a solid benji to drop on it? Yes. Did it resolve every problem I've had in the last 6 months on my prints, also Yes. Even some fancy/finicky ass PLA I had been playing with suddenly printed flawlessly.
 
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Kais

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Yup! Also you can dial your retract settings way back, like 0.2mm. Drastically reduce pauses between moves/hops/layer change, strings, surface finish... sooo many advantages to direct drive over bowden setups. The added weight was a concern years ago when motors and pwm driver chips were a lot more voltage limited and so the motors were weaker.
 

Haus

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Yup! Also you can dial your retract settings way back, like 0.2mm. Drastically reduce pauses between moves/hops/layer change, strings, surface finish... sooo many advantages to direct drive over bowden setups. The added weight was a concern years ago when motors and pwm driver chips were a lot more voltage limited and so the motors were weaker.
Yeah, I have my retract at 1mm right now and it's printing beautifully.

Currently working on a second print in place articulated dragon because SOMEONE saw them last weekend at a con and almost bought one before I could give her the look and let her know "How about I just print you one?"
1749525074715.png

And yeah, I need to get a better macro camera on my OctoPi box...
 
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Hydromarty

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I had an Ender 3 and Ender 3 V2 a couple of years ago, got annoyed with constantly fixing and tuning them and they collected dust for a few years. Then I found myself with a bunch of free time, so i bought a Bambu Lab X1C, then an A1 Mini. Both blew my mind, they just work. Love them both.

Now im trying to fix up my ender 3 pro. I got a E3V3 MoBo, a pi for klipper, dual z axis, linear rail for x. I got all that sorted, but I also want input shaping so i bought an acceleromoeter, LIS3dH, but cant find any information on my level (youtube, or instructions with pictures) on how to install or use it.

I modeled a new mobo/component box, with 2 buck converters, the Pi and the Mobo.

I switched the buck converters i was using, so i had to redesign the comonent box (in white now)
 

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Soygen

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I had an Ender 3 and Ender 3 V2 a couple of years ago, got annoyed with constantly fixing and tuning them and they collected dust for a few years. Then I found myself with a bunch of free time, so i bought a Bambu Lab X1C, then an A1 Mini. Both blew my mind, they just work. Love them both.

Now im trying to fix up my ender 3 pro. I got a E3V3 MoBo, a pi for klipper, dual z axis, linear rail for x. I got all that sorted, but I also want input shaping so i bought an acceleromoeter, LIS3dH, but cant find any information on my level (youtube, or instructions with pictures) on how to install or use it.

I modeled a new mobo/component box, with 2 buck converters, the Pi and the Mobo.

I switched the buck converters i was using, so i had to redesign the comonent box (in white now)
Honestly, I think starting out with an Ender or anything similar(Creality CR10 was my first printer) makes you appreciate just how good the Bambu systems are. If the Bambu was someone's first printer, they are pretty misleading in how most Chinese printers are. I think I spent more time leveling my bed on the Creality than I did actually printing. It was also fucking glacially slow.
 
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Haus

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I had an Ender 3 and Ender 3 V2 a couple of years ago, got annoyed with constantly fixing and tuning them and they collected dust for a few years. Then I found myself with a bunch of free time, so i bought a Bambu Lab X1C, then an A1 Mini. Both blew my mind, they just work. Love them both.

I started with a PowerSpec Ultra3d Pro which was a knock off of the Flashforge Dreamer. Can't even remember the name now. It was fun, but a living science project. In the years I had it I think I got a total of 2 prints to work using both extruders. I got the Ender 5 pro a few years back and it was a lot better, now tons better with the new hot end and direct feed extruder. But alas a single extruder.

All this and I have a buddy who just got one of those Bambu XC1s and I can just feel him staring down at me like PCMasterRace folks stare at console players now... with his perfect looking 4 color prints so easy his 5 year old is cranking shit out.
 
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Hydromarty

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I started with a PowerSpec Ultra3d Pro which was a knock off of the Flashforge Dreamer. Can't even remember the name now. It was fun, but a living science project. In the years I had it I think I got a total of 2 prints to work using both extruders. I got the Ender 5 pro a few years back and it was a lot better, now tons better with the new hot end and direct feed extruder. But alas a single extruder.

All this and I have a buddy who just got one of those Bambu XC1s and I can just feel him staring down at me like PCMasterRace folks stare at console players now... with his perfect looking 4 color prints so easy his 5 year old is cranking shit out.
I liked the Bambu printers so much, i got my nephew (12) the A1, as he had a Ender 3 handed down to him, and i was tech support. The A1 is amazing too, occasionally brittle filament will break off in the AMS tube and minor work is need to clear it.
 

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Soygen

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I liked the Bambu printers so much, i got my nephew (12) the A1, as he had a Ender 3 handed down to him, and i was tech support. The A1 is amazing too, occasionally brittle filament will break off in the AMS tube and minor work is need to clear it.
Yeah, I've completely disassembled my AMS like 5 times now because of little filament bit getting stuck in one of the bowden tubes. Really wish they made those paths easily accessible.
 

Haus

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So... I'm trying to tune some things on my Ender to get rid of some vibration issues (now that the new hotend/extruder fixed those issues). And testing with the traditional Benchy method. Testing with a spool of PLA I got ahold of and found something interesting. A PLA that looks like different colors depending on what side of the print you're looking at...
1749743545692.png
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Maybe I'm just easily amused, but I found this cool. Got it to print some of those print in place articulated toys for the wife's "interesting shit shelf"
 

Soygen

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So... I'm trying to tune some things on my Ender to get rid of some vibration issues (now that the new hotend/extruder fixed those issues). And testing with the traditional Benchy method. Testing with a spool of PLA I got ahold of and found something interesting. A PLA that looks like different colors depending on what side of the print you're looking at...
View attachment 590039View attachment 590040View attachment 590041View attachment 590042

Maybe I'm just easily amused, but I found this cool. Got it to print some of those print in place articulated toys for the wife's "interesting shit shelf"
Looks cool. What filament is it?
 

Haus

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OK. Starting my next set of prints. This will be to print a form to then sand cast in metal. (First test run will be aluminum, and then if that works brass) Who doesn't want to make their own maul?
1749952117155.png


I'll print two of these (they can connect via peg holes on the bottom). Then probably a day or two of post work with auto body paint/filler and sanding to get as smooth as possible, then multiple coats of gloss enamel to get smoother. (Smoother the mold form, the less you need to sand/polish the metal when done which is far more work).

Then pack is in casting sand, remove the mold to leave a cavity, and melt/pour in metal.

When all is said and done this should be around a 7lb head to put on a hickory handle probably. And sure, you can say "But why the hell do you need a 7lb maul that looks like an art deco hark head??!?" but I'll ignore you because I don't need that kind of negativity in my life.
 
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