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Lanx

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Wanting to upgrade the factory head unit in my Honda Ridgeline. It's a 2019 sport that is their lowest trim and subsequently has no features in the head unit. Never used anything besides factory. I've done a small amount of research and it sounds like sometimes it's tricky to upgrade but keep the functionality of the steering wheel control and rear camera. If I get a kit on Crutchfield, find an installer to do it, should be ok right? Any sort of brands to go with or anything that are reliable and easy to install? Or all they pretty much the same at this point. Really just want something with Android Auto or whatever it's called.
i did headunit upgrades for 2002 civic and 2012 subaru, the subaru required A LOT of finagling, that was mainly to get the steering wheel/audio controls to work (it worked w/o it, but why not have it work, tho)

the honda sits flush, b/c it's so old and popular i was able to buy a dash "mold" that fit the new head unit, the subaru headunit is "oversized", something like this
1b0ad1a8aea29be4d6a45fa5b84af7b8.png


it's sticks out but it's a huge screen, so it looks nice and i didn't have to try to find a custom dash mold, which sometimes costs more than the headunit itself (cuz it's not like a frame, sometimes it's an entire piece of plastic that extends down to the shifter.

i first did the honda, cuz who cares if i fuck up right, but civic turned out to be super easy, even adding a backup cam and using the screen, cuz the electronics were simple, hell it was a cassette i was replacing.

the subaru was twice as long, b/c there was just more wires and more of everything, audio ports, usb ports, just mo shit, and it was more cramped, and i literally had to put my feet on the headrest in order to get underneath to remove control cables so i could separate it all.

i googled your ridgeline, i guess it's a 2nd gen, 1st says it ended at 2015, so i found this video

which should work for your car

if you can't do this, pay someone to do it then.
 

Burnem Wizfyre

Potato del Grande
9,199
9,718
98d 39m
Added a little personal touch to the new dodge warlock, the guy at the wrap shop who did the work actually played EQ and wants me to put the eq warlock symbol on the truck.
 

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Gamma Rays

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Saw an impressive sight in a local car park yesterday.

A flawless classic 90's Honda NSX, I haven't seen one in years. This was a bright red one, just beautiful.

It was actually parked across the lane thing, straight behind me so when I was reversing out of my spot, I had to drive directly towards it, I was hemmed in a little too so I had to reverse straight back quite a bit before having room to put in some steering.

In my rear viewer screen I am seeing the rear of the NSX grow larger in that fish-eye lens way.

SO I stop and do a little 3 point turn, I could have gone back a bit closer, but I wasn't even going to risk bumping a piece of automotive sculpture like that.
 

Lanx

Dark Yellow White Passing Supremacist
<Prior Amod>
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Saw an impressive sight in a local car park yesterday.

A flawless classic 90's Honda NSX, I haven't seen one in years. This was a bright red one, just beautiful.

It was actually parked across the lane thing, straight behind me so when I was reversing out of my spot, I had to drive directly towards it, I was hemmed in a little too so I had to reverse straight back quite a bit before having room to put in some steering.

In my rear viewer screen I am seeing the rear of the NSX grow larger in that fish-eye lens way.

SO I stop and do a little 3 point turn, I could have gone back a bit closer, but I wasn't even going to risk bumping a piece of automotive sculpture like that.
i don't know much about cars, but i do know only gen1 nsx was legit cool, every gen after sux, cuz thats when they when cheap and did away with the pop up lights
 

brekk

Dancing Dino Superstar
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It explicitly says to use that stuff every other oil change in the manuals for my GF and I's cars. (Both Hyundais with GDI)
 

Lanx

Dark Yellow White Passing Supremacist
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It explicitly says to use that stuff every other oil change in the manuals for my GF and I's cars. (Both Hyundais with GDI)
install an oil catch can if you haven't already, i just emptied mine out last week after a year since installing (because i installed it in an awkward place it's hard to get to)

literally this
e9fb29e87e573feabf5e08de84808cab.png


now i installed a drainvalve and hose on it so i can drain it more easily
 

Sludig

Ahn'Qiraj Raider
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73d 20h 23m
Kinda the opposite, but did oil change on wifes cx5 after I think 8k miles or so. Certainly dark when accumulated in a tub, but via dipstick and while draining it came out far clearer/cleaner than anything I've ever seen for that mileage between changes.

Nothing fancy oil wise, I want to say there was supposed to be a few gimmicks and advantages of their newer fancy skyactive engines. Or dunno.



I got my mityvac today for doing my F Types oil. Bitch barely even has a drain plug that's hard to get to. No dipstick, eletronic read. Generally almost everyone does it via extraction so you can measure the in/out since it's sensitive to overfilling.


Looks like a giant weeny pump.

1619570772927.png
 

brekk

Dancing Dino Superstar
<Bronze Donator>
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install an oil catch can if you haven't already, i just emptied mine out last week after a year since installing (because i installed it in an awkward place it's hard to get to)

literally this
e9fb29e87e573feabf5e08de84808cab.png


now i installed a drainvalve and hose on it so i can drain it more easily

Yeah its on my short list of mods for mine as it's turbo.
 

Lanx

Dark Yellow White Passing Supremacist
<Prior Amod>
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Kinda the opposite, but did oil change on wifes cx5 after I think 8k miles or so. Certainly dark when accumulated in a tub, but via dipstick and while draining it came out far clearer/cleaner than anything I've ever seen for that mileage between changes.

Nothing fancy oil wise, I want to say there was supposed to be a few gimmicks and advantages of their newer fancy skyactive engines. Or dunno.



I got my mityvac today for doing my F Types oil. Bitch barely even has a drain plug that's hard to get to. No dipstick, eletronic read. Generally almost everyone does it via extraction so you can measure the in/out since it's sensitive to overfilling.


Looks like a giant weeny pump.

View attachment 351372

i used to use this b4 i got my house (can't get underneath)
5d664dda697629d46057b403598ee624.png


honestly it felt like it was fast than draining oil from the bottom lulz

i also had a manual one like the one you got, i think it was underpressure and i left it outside to the elements and it imploded, and the plastic was hard too, thats why i got the electric later on.

i still do the drain plug, i did a test with the pump and after pumping out the oil, i undid the drain plug and a good 1/2 quart came out.

for oil, now that the subaru is 100k i added ceratec
892cca4e38c88b259404c409ba0c9c2c.png


honestly no idea if it works, all the subaru users love it tho (they probably ride theirs hard)

it's not everytime for an oil change, 1 application is good for 30k miles, just in between ceratec uses, use mos2
1798098449507941ccbd8e142c19c6b1.png
 

Sludig

Ahn'Qiraj Raider
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Ya, think I'll stick to my mityvac for $90 but more abilities to use it for stuff like differential changes, measuring and of course holding until I drain into waste tub.
 

Burns

Vyemm Raider
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Oil talk, nice!

I have to link the obligatory educational oil article from BobistheOilGuy.com. It is written for the layman gearheads, and explains almost anything you want know about automotive oil, itself. For example, it shows why you should drive like an old granny until your vehicle's engine is up to temperature.


Kinda the opposite, but did oil change on wifes cx5 after I think 8k miles or so. Certainly dark when accumulated in a tub, but via dipstick and while draining it came out far clearer/cleaner than anything I've ever seen for that mileage between changes.

Nothing fancy oil wise, I want to say there was supposed to be a few gimmicks and advantages of their newer fancy skyactive engines. Or dunno.

If it is fully synthetic, then it should have no problem going 10,000 miles, but that also depends on the driver and the weather (colder climates are harder on everything).
 

Sludig

Ahn'Qiraj Raider
5,401
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73d 20h 23m
Oil talk, nice!

I have to link the obligatory educational oil article from BobistheOilGuy.com. It is written for the layman gearheads, and explains almost anything you want know about automotive oil, itself. For example, it shows why you should drive like an old granny until your vehicle's engine is up to temperature.




If it is fully synthetic, then it should have no problem going 10,000 miles, but that also depends on the driver and the weather (colder climates are harder on everything).
Prior oil change was via a dealer/shop bought used at 6k miles, so wanted sooner than later in case of pure dino oil. I do usually push 10k when I had my truck etc on full synthetic. But for example my F type will be getting far more frequent changes, which hurts given the oil volume.
 

Burns

Vyemm Raider
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Prior oil change was via a dealer/shop bought used at 6k miles, so wanted sooner than later in case of pure dino oil. I do usually push 10k when I had my truck etc on full synthetic. But for example my F type will be getting far more frequent changes, which hurts given the oil volume.

Indeed, it would be hard to trust a vehicle from a dealer, for such things, as they probably don't know for certain what kind of oil is in it, either (unless an oil change is part of the sale).

As for the F type, what do they recommend? I would guess that you could at least go 5k on full synth, as long as you keep to reasonable RPMs until the oil is at operating temp. I really wouldn't be surprised if you could safely get to 10k, with proper (mostly safe) driving, and the manufacturer is just being cautious. For the first few changes, you could always send the oil off for testing to see how it's doing under your driving conditions. Bobistheoilguy has a whole write up on how to read the tests.

Obviously, if you are going to track the car once a month, or drive it like a track car, as often, you would want to change it much sooner.

I tried to look up who developed the 3 different F-type engines, but that info was not readily available. Being owned by Tata is somewhat concerning, given India's general reputation for lack of quality, but I would hope that they let everything Jag be done in the UK, as the Brits would have the highest motivation to get things right.
 

Sludig

Ahn'Qiraj Raider
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It's basically a shelby mustang engine and was made during fords time of partial ownership. I do hot rod and showboat occasionally mixed in with babying it commuting up the highway.

It's not a toyota, so I lean towards spending a little more on frequent changes as a cheaper prevenative than dealing with jaguar repair bills (or worse blown engines which some have had and why I dont aim to tune it.)
 
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Lanx

Dark Yellow White Passing Supremacist
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It's basically a shelby mustang engine and was made during fords time of partial ownership. I do hot rod and showboat occasionally mixed in with babying it commuting up the highway.

It's not a toyota, so I lean towards spending a little more on frequent changes as a cheaper prevenative than dealing with jaguar repair bills (or worse blown engines which some have had and why I dont aim to tune it.)
420e07607e70bea671a6e1bef31d3d39.png


wth, did engineers decide that at 8cylinders, they can't make a v10, so they'll just keep on adding oil capacity? went from a 4L to a thirsty boy
 

Burns

Vyemm Raider
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It's basically a shelby mustang engine and was made during fords time of partial ownership. I do hot rod and showboat occasionally mixed in with babying it commuting up the highway.

It's not a toyota, so I lean towards spending a little more on frequent changes as a cheaper prevenative than dealing with jaguar repair bills (or worse blown engines which some have had and why I dont aim to tune it.)

I am also of the opinion that buying a stock high HP car and keeping that way is the way to go. All the drive train parts have been assembled with that HP/Torque in mind, and when you start increasing the HP/Torque, it causes stock parts, that are still in the system, to go past tolerances and break.

420e07607e70bea671a6e1bef31d3d39.png


wth, did engineers decide that at 8cylinders, they can't make a v10, so they'll just keep on adding oil capacity? went from a 4L to a thirsty boy


I just looked it up and here is what I found:
  • More oil is easier to keep at the correct operating temperature (cooling)
  • Hard cornering can cause the oil pump intake/hose (in the oil sump (pan)) to run dry
  • Most engines use a wet sump (oil pan)
  • More expensive engine designs, like BMW, Porshe, and even some Corvette models use dry sumps
    • This usually entails a pump sucking the oil directly out of the crankcase
    • A separate reservoir with a second pump holds all the excess oil
    • This allows the engine to sit lower in the vehicle and achieve a lower center of gravity
    • The engineers can move the reservoir and pumps to where ever they want, in the engine bay, to better distribute weight
    • They can, more easily, keep increasing the oil capacity until the cooling system performs the way they want

As far as I can tell, all the Mustangs use wet sumps, so they just increase the pan size to get the cooling performance (at high RPMs) that they want (and to make sure the pump doesn't run dry while drifting).
 

Lanx

Dark Yellow White Passing Supremacist
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I am also of the opinion that buying a stock high HP car and keeping that way is the way to go. All the drive train parts have been assembled with that HP/Torque in mind, and when you start increasing the HP/Torque, it causes stock parts, that are still in the system, to go past tolerances and break.




I just looked it up and here is what I found:
  • More oil is easier to keep at the correct operating temperature (cooling)
  • Hard cornering can cause the oil pump intake/hose (in the oil sump (pan)) to run dry
  • Most engines use a wet sump (oil pan)
  • More expensive engine designs, like BMW, Porshe, and even some Corvette models use dry sumps
    • This usually entails a pump sucking the oil directly out of the crankcase
    • A separate reservoir with a second pump holds all the excess oil
    • This allows the engine to sit lower in the vehicle and achieve a lower center of gravity
    • The engineers can move the reservoir and pumps to where ever they want in the engine bay, to better distribute weight
    • They can keep increasing the oil capacity until the cooling system performs the way they want

As far as I can tell, all the Mustangs use wet sumps, so they just increase the pan size to get the cooling performance (at high RPMs) that they want (and to make sure the pump doesn't run dry while drifting).
isn't the first types of mods ppl do when they race/corner hard is to replace the pan with a baffled pan to prevent dry suck?
 

Burns

Vyemm Raider
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isn't the first types of mods ppl do when they race/corner hard is to replace the pan with a baffled pan to prevent dry suck?

A real racer on the twisty track? Probably!

All the gearheads I used to hang around with went for HP, HP, and more HP...and then their cars end up breaking various parts every six months or so. They sure sounded cool though and were fun in a straight line.

I keep all my cars bone stock (the drivetrain, at least) and just try to buy the most performance I can, in a body style that I like to look at. My base model Vette can generally out perform my driving skill.
 

Sanrith Descartes

I love my shiny new medal, LLR
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I just own a BMW. Its runs like a.. German auto and when I want mad performance I just shift to sport mode. 😀