Car ?'s

BrutulTM

BrutulTM

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Siliconemelons said:
Yeah, open the break fluid top off in the engine bay, and use a hand pump clamp... or.. a 20$ amazon tool to do it.. then when you put the new stuff on and button everything up... you...get ready to calibrate the calipers! PRESS THE BREAK ta da! 500$ plz

If its 500$ for new all new rotors and all new pads, and mobile (aka at your house/work whatever) - that is not that bad.

Looked up for my van, amazon, a set of 4 rotor 4 pad is 310$

edit: new everything you just do some hard stop breaks a few times to set in the rotors etc. its good- no one is turning rotors 5 times anymore, and go ask your parts house how much it costs to turn the rotors now days- I called a few years ago, I think they wanted 25/35$ a rotor.... c'mon "Oh new ones need turning also!" nah... 90% people this aint no formula 1 or lambo...its a SUV mom wagon.
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Yeah I'm assuming a full brake job for $500. If he was just doing the pads that's a bit much, but if they come to your house and do it I'd think that would cost a bit more. Not all brake jobs are created equal either. I did the brakes on my F-150 last winter and every fucking step of the way everything was rusted solid. Went through 2 cans of PB Blaster and a good amount of lying on my back trying to swing a sledge hammer while mud rained down into my eyes just to get the wheels off. If someone paid me $500 for that brake job I would have thought I got screwed.
 
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Bald Brah

Bald Brah

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500 is an awesome price if it includes parts. If it's just labor, nah. Brakes are a 1-2 hour job with power tools.
 
Kirun

Kirun

Buzzfeed Editor
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Bald Brah said:
Brakes are a 1-2 hour job with power tools.
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Depends on the make/model. And you're probably the asshole who is over torquing the shit out of everything by using "power tools". But it's your car, you're free to fuck it up if you want.
 
Lanx

Lanx

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Rajaah said:
South Dakota? I'll look into it.

I've been looking into NC for a bit here and it seems a bit more complicated than just "get an extended stay motel". They want bills with that address on it, etc.

Florida says something about being able to exchange an out of state license for a Florida license, straight-up, as long as you don't have any citations, DUIs, or strikes that indicate that you might be a road hazard. Owing toll bills probably doesn't count as being a road hazard, so I might be able to just go there and exchange licenses, provided I do it before it expires. If I'm reading this right.
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To be eligible to apply for a South Dakota Driver License, you must have a physical residential address located in South Dakota, live full time in an RV/camper, or travel full time for work (for example, traveling nurse, truck driver, etc.).

DPS - Department of Public Safety - Full-Time Travelers - Citizen Services

DPS - Department of Public Safety - Driver Licensing - This page will provide information for full time travelers who want to obtain or renew a South Dakota
www.sd.gov www.sd.gov
 
Rajaah

Rajaah

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Good way to get rid of glue on a dashboard? I've got a nasty circular glue patch on the dashboard from when I tried to hook a phone holder up to it recently (it didn't take, I gave up). Will have to just scrape it off, don't want to damage the dashboard though. It's like very stiff goo, and it does seem to peel off (in tiny increments) with enough picking at it. Would take an age to get it all off that way though. Wondering if there's some non-abrasive spray that'll make it come off. I should probably swing by the Tesla repair shop and ask them to take a look at it, since their dashboard is made of specific materials.
 
BrutulTM

BrutulTM

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Is it a plastic dash? This stuff is good for taking glue off of stuff but you don't want to use it on leather or rubber.

Screenshot 2026-04-19 1.37.56 PM.png


If you have a can of WD-40 laying around you might try that first.
 
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Rajaah

Rajaah

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BrutulTM said:
Is it a plastic dash? This stuff is good for taking glue off of stuff but you don't want to use it on leather or rubber.

View attachment 625598

If you have a can of WD-40 laying around you might try that first.
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I think the Tesla dashboard is rubber. It's an unusual rubbery material that grips things really well (you can put a drink or a phone on the center console, which is also this material, and it won't fall down or slide around).
 
fred sanford

fred sanford

Sanford & Son: Owner, Operator
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So my wife just found out on her fairly new car (4 months old), that there is a pretty long scratch on one of the fenders. It’s well over a foot long, but not very deep. I don’t even feel it when I rub my fingernail over it. In fact, it’s not really noticeable unless you get close to the car. If it weren’t for the dark blue paint, she probably wouldn’t have noticed it.

Does anybody have any recommendations of how to fix it? We tried just wiping it with a cloth and used some quick detailer to see if it would buff out, but it doesn’t. I’m assuming I need to use some kind of wax or polish.
 
Burns

Burns

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fred sanford said:
So my wife just found out on her fairly new car (4 months old), that there is a pretty long scratch on one of the fenders. It’s well over a foot long, but not very deep. I don’t even feel it when I rub my fingernail over it. In fact, it’s not really noticeable unless you get close to the car. If it weren’t for the dark blue paint, she probably wouldn’t have noticed it.

Does anybody have any recommendations of how to fix it? We tried just wiping it with a cloth and used some quick detailer to see if it would buff out, but it doesn’t. I’m assuming I need to use some kind of wax or polish.
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If it's just a scratch in the clear coat then yeah, a coat or three of wax/polish, or a single coat of ceramic should make it go away (probably). For a daily driver, they generally say wax lasts 3 to 6 months, polish lasts up to a year, and ceramic lasts 2 to 6 years. Wax and polish are "easy" but for ceramic you need to follow the directions closely. The 4+ year ceramics are usually only available through a certified detailer because they can be finicky.

I haven't used waxed in 15+ years. I used to use a polish called Zaino and once it was 4 coats deep, it looked amazing. I'm not sure what's the best modern polish, as there are a whole slew of various polishes that people like and over the years I have read that many are easier to apply than Zainos was.

The most recent thing I've used is a ceramic coating product called Feynlabs Original. It should last 2 - 3 years on a daily driver that's parked in a garage (depending on climate) and is fairly easy to apply, for a ceramic, if you have a garage and follow the directions.

Here is a quick writeup of some dude putting one of the professional only ceramic coating on his Vette if you want to read a blog type lite-walkthrough: Corvette Forum
 
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Sludig

Sludig

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Trying to avoid the whole long backstory , covered it a little in another thread but tldr as much as possible is.

Bought shitbox to be commuter 3rd car, 2020 veloster w/ 7 speed dct. Wish it still was normal auto or even manual. Not the best history to start. Make it 80 miles up road trans goes. Lost all power on highway and she made it to shoulder, 1minute or less of burnt rubber smell. Dripping from the trans area, resevoir went from at bottom but within lines to empty in resevoir when we popped hood at mechanic, unsure how much in rest of car. Took it to the best rated shop independant we can find in Tulsa, only one w/ 5 star on a few hundred reviews. Engine gauge never jumped over operating temp, no codes until like 4th start up at dealer when they went to connect to obd2 real quick waiting for my ride. Shows DCT trans codes only.

Seller didnt respond on one number until tonight on fb, hadn't checked other phone >.< Shitty small time mechanic fix n flip kinda deal come to find out after the 2 hour drive. He finally got back to me, said originally it had a cracked radiator that was replaced. Under the belly pan you can tell someone put it in ditch with all the cacked mud around oil pan/trans mount. Not visible just on the ground at sellers. (low car)

Dealer is just quoting it as full replacement, 6,100 ish. Seller seems to think it's better to find leak and run fluid and see what it's doing and not totalled trans potentially. I dont completely disagree it's worth a shot. Intend to perhaps 3rd party opinion and have my country handyman 1 man mechanics shop friend take it and see what he thinks and worst case he'll rebuild for like $3500. I just had to choose a shop at the time being closer to okc when it happened and him out on vacation.

He says he'll warranty it for a year same as this independent. Would be nice to eliminate they want to sell the big job rather than being throurough about working their way from bottom to top. I feel like might be worth the rebuild because even if drivable topped off I have to think it's at least caused a lot of wear.

His current project
1777345303292.png
 
BrutulTM

BrutulTM

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I don't know what your best move would be but good on you for fixing it. It shocks me how many people when they have a major repair on their car will opt to just trade it in (for basically nothing) and go even deeper in debt for a new car plus negative equity on the broke down one. It's like "Thank God I didn't have to spend 5 grand on that new transmission. I'll just make an $850/month car payment for the next 6 years instead!
 
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