Home Improvement

Eomer

Eomer

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Uber_sl said:
The fittings enter the pipe, you're immediately busting down your nominal size form 1/2" to something closer to 1/4", it's rubbish brah.
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Crimp PEX, yes. Expansion PEX like Uponor/Wirsbo, nope. The ID of an Uponor fitting is pretty much the same as copper tube size ID. Sch40 (steel or PVC) would have the largest ID. Sch80, which most CPVC products are (with the exception of the Flowguard product I mentioned above, which was copper tube size), I believe has roughly the same ID as a Uponor fitting. I'm just going by memory on most of that, feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. But there isn't a significant difference in ID between Uponor PEX, copper tube, or Sch80 CPVC.

And in any case, ID is pretty much irrelevant in a single family residential setting for domestic water distribution, which is the context of this discussion (Picasso's man cave). Unless you have horrendous water pressure or extremely long runs or something.
 
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Picasso3

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Well...I'm certainly going to pay attention to what i use to glue cpvc and pvc pipes together after reading all that shit. I'm pretty sure i used all purpose or all in one to do the basement at my old place, which said it was ok but I'm sure it had some asterisks and fine print.
 
Eomer

Eomer

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You glued CPVC and PVC together? Seriously? That shit ain't kosher bro. The only way to join two different types of plastic in a pressure system is through a threaded or flanged connection.
 
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Picasso3

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No, i mean my gluing techniques for each pipe, respectively. I searched up cpvc lawsuit and a lot of it was glue related
 
lurker

lurker

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jimmy carter wuwu_sl said:
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About that patio. You can cover it with pavers very easily. Don't use the thick 3-4" driveway ones, just some around 1-2" thick. Use thinset to hold the perimeter ones on, let the center ones float and sweep sand between the joints. You could also do the sides the same way but I would probably just stain it darker and plant a thick hedge like boxwood around the patio to hide the concrete.
 
Eomer

Eomer

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Picasso_sl said:
No, i mean my gluing techniques for each pipe, respectively. I searched up cpvc lawsuit and a lot of it was glue related
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Ah, gotcha. Gluing isn't as simple as people think it is on pressure systems. Making sure the pipe is clean, that you scuff up and deburr the pipe, use the proper glue and primer, etc etc. When we first started using a lot more glued pressure systems we initially had some problems as guys were just slapping some glue on the pipe and fitting and slamming them together without cleaning, deburring etc.
 
Erronius

Erronius

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Picasso_sl said:
Supposed to size by largest a fixture is rated for, 6" can is 150 watt so 12 put it at 15a
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It's an issue only because most people consider lighting to be a 'continuous load' (3+ hours of operation) and that means a 125% rating on OCPDs and you can't have wiring on a breaker that is rated for less than the breaker is. 15A x 1.25 = 18.75A, so normally if you left it at 12 you'd have to upsize the circuit to 12g and a 20A breaker. The easiest fix would be either to leave it at 14g/15A and split it into two separate circuits each with their own homerun back to the panel, or to cut your # of cans down to 9 from 12.

That is a lot of 6" cans on a single circuit though, LOL
 
Joeboo

Joeboo

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Hey Erronius,

Any clue in what ballpark I should expect to pay to upgrade our house from 100 amp service to 200 amp service? Am I stupid to think this is something I could have done by an electrician for $1000-$1500?
 
Erronius

Erronius

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joeboo_sl said:
Hey Erronius,

Any clue in what ballpark I should expect to pay to upgrade our house from 100 amp service to 200 amp service? Am I stupid to think this is something I could have done by an electrician for $1000-$1500?
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I'm not good with bidding and pricing, plus I don't know your particulars. My gut feeling is that you're low and you should expect something maybe 3k~ish. Is your service above or below ground?

I'd call around and get 4-5 quotes. I've worked for both Barts and Teague and they're not bad.
 
Joeboo

Joeboo

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My service is all above ground (telephone pole in the far corner of my backyard connects to a pole/antenna thingy above my roof before coming down the back of my house to the meter box.

I'll just have to call around for some quotes, but I'll probably just say "screw it" if it's closer to the 3 grand mark than the 1 grand mark. It's functional as it is, would just be a little bit better selling point down the road if it was 200amp.
 
Erronius

Erronius

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joeboo_sl said:
My service is all above ground (telephone pole in the far corner of my backyard connects to a pole/antenna thingy above my roof before coming down the back of my house to the meter box.
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Might be less then. No trenching. It should be up to KCPL as to whether or not they need to replace the triplex overhead (utilities normally follow their own rules). More than likely you'd need a new panel, meter socket and riser (also the cable in the riser and SEU or whatever to the panel). Also just my 2 cents, I'd drop the price some if the riser and weatherhead were located on the flat side of your house as opposed to having to penetrate a roof overhang or offset around something like an eave and gutter.
 
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Picasso3

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55 sheets of 12' drywall ordered. They're going to boom it through a side window about 50 ft from the road. Hidden perk of hiring a drywall pro "don't carry that shit down here, they'll shoot it through the window no problem". Would have never occurred to me
 
Big Phoenix

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Fuck you weeds

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Also heres the grass in my front yard minus the weeds which have been pulled. Is this all dead or will it turn green again by watering it?

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