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Palum

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I actually have a 3d printer but suck at blender. Can you make me one for 1” conduit?!
TBH it's a lot easier in tinkerCAD or Fusion360 or something. Can also check all the STL sites and just scale I'm sure there's something on there. Unfortunately some of us have to work so can't look right now.
 
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Palum

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Starting kitchen remodel. This is just the little nook where we have our coffee machines. Used this area as a test, sort of, to see if we liked our choices.

Before. Laminate countertop, 6x6 white ceramic tile backsplash.

Coffee%20area%20before-XL.jpg


After

Coffee%20area%20after-XL.jpg


Painted cabinets, new hardware, undercabinet lighting, porcelain and granite countertops with porcelain tile backsplash. Made the backsplash large because those coffeemakers spit and sputter on to the walls, but my wife likes it enough to continue with that height through out the rest of the project. Will start on stove side of kitchen today. Probably take me another 2-3 weeks to finish. Setting up a saw in the snow is not fun but for me it's the best time of year to do this. What else is there to do.
Oh God please do not use tile countertops. They are awful disease magnets and terrible to work on.
 
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lurker

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Oh God please do not use tile countertops. They are awful disease magnets and terrible to work on.
We've always had them in every house we've owned. I don't understand them being "disease magnets" as porcelain is less porous than granite, marble or synthetic solid surfaces like corian. It's essentially glass. Grout lines need to be maintained and sealed, but so does a granite slab.

As far as working on it, I might inset a piece of stone somewhere so my wife has a place to kneed dough but the reality is, the tile is so flat and the grout lines are so narrow, I'd do it just to show off, not out of necessity.
 

Palum

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We've always had them in every house we've owned. I don't understand them being "disease magnets" as porcelain is less porous than granite, marble or synthetic solid surfaces like corian. It's essentially glass. Grout lines need to be maintained and sealed, but so does a granite slab.

As far as working on it, I might inset a piece of stone somewhere so my wife has a place to kneed dough but the reality is, the tile is so flat and the grout lines are so narrow, I'd do it just to show off, not out of necessity.
Hey you do you. My experience with tile countertops is disgusting grout, annoying work surface and always damaged. I would replace tile with literally anything including Formica and I hate that stuff.
 
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Kobayashi

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Starting kitchen remodel. This is just the little nook where we have our coffee machines. Used this area as a test, sort of, to see if we liked our choices.

Before. Laminate countertop, 6x6 white ceramic tile backsplash.

Coffee%20area%20before-XL.jpg


After

Coffee%20area%20after-XL.jpg


Painted cabinets, new hardware, undercabinet lighting, porcelain and granite countertops with porcelain tile backsplash. Made the backsplash large because those coffeemakers spit and sputter on to the walls, but my wife likes it enough to continue with that height through out the rest of the project. Will start on stove side of kitchen today. Probably take me another 2-3 weeks to finish. Setting up a saw in the snow is not fun but for me it's the best time of year to do this. What else is there to do.
Looks really good. My wife wanted to paint all our oak cabinets white when we moved in, but I convinced her they were still in really good shape and we had bigger fish to fry. I'm sure it'll come up again at some point, how did you do it? My biggest fear is getting off all the polyurethane to get a good, consistent coating of paint. There were some companies by me that advertise taking off all the doors, stripping them (I think maybe with a sandblaster), and then spraying them in a paint booth. Seemed like potentially overkill, but probably how I was going to go with.
 

BrutulTM

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Would you hire them? :trump:


My brother has a concrete deck that's up in the air like that and honestly, that seems like what should happen every time they pour that shit. Even now sometimes when I stand underneath it I think about how it weighs like 20,000 pounds and there's just some anchor bolts holding it to the house and 1/16th inch thick steel holding it up.
 
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The_Black_Log Foler

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Hey you do you. My experience with tile countertops is disgusting grout, annoying work surface and always damaged. I would replace tile with literally anything including Formica and I hate that stuff.
Concrete or marble. Nothing else.
 

lurker

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Looks really good. My wife wanted to paint all our oak cabinets white when we moved in, but I convinced her they were still in really good shape and we had bigger fish to fry. I'm sure it'll come up again at some point, how did you do it? My biggest fear is getting off all the polyurethane to get a good, consistent coating of paint. There were some companies by me that advertise taking off all the doors, stripping them (I think maybe with a sandblaster), and then spraying them in a paint booth. Seemed like potentially overkill, but probably how I was going to go with.
You need a heated paint booth and an airless sprayer. I have a friend with both so he did the job for me. I had no place to set up a booth and it's also 35 degrees in my garage right now. All doors and drawer fronts are removed and go to a warm paint booth. The cabinets are painted in the house after a lot of masking. The way the masking is done, you don't have to take everything out of the cabinets. The drawers are removed and set aside.

The parts were sanded with that 3m scratchy stuff and caulked where necessary. The sanding just roughed up the surface enough to accept a primer, nothing severe. Just rubbed down by hand, not stripped. One primer coat, 2 coats of color which was a Behr cabinet paint in satin. Sanding with paper between coats. Process took about a week. I bought new knobs and handles with the same hole spacing to make life easy.
 
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BrutulTM

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I hate that everyone is painting their wood cabinets these days. I know fashions change and whatnot, but why would you want to cover up nice oak cabinet doors with paint so they might as well be particle board?
 
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Kajiimagi

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Just finished a 300 ft underground run of cat5e in conduit. Cable is direct bury rated but ran conduit in case I ever need to rerun. Do you guys think it’s worth sealing the ends where it comes out? Was trying to find grommets of some sort to seal but couldn’t find anything. Could use expanding foam but wanted something a little cleaner looking.

View attachment 507120
If you really think it needs sealing, there is a product for this called 'Duct seal' , in my area HD and Lowes sell it. Electrical supply places sell it too. It looks like grey playdoh.
 
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BrutulTM

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Just fill the end of the pipe with silicone and then cut it off flat with a box cutter to make it look nice if you worry about such things.
 
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Kobayashi

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I hate that everyone is painting their wood cabinets these days. I know fashions change and whatnot, but why would you want to cover up nice oak cabinet doors with paint so they might as well be particle board?

971279e011d6fc4d6e8ab6a8a5afc1bac67576ad6d24b9080ca7e5c69ee780e9_1.jpg


I don't necessarily disagree with you, my hope is my wife forgets about it, especially since I have natural oak trim throughout the house, which would be the next domino to fall.

That being said, I can appreciate when it's well done like in lurker's case. If I have to do it, that's definitely what I want to emulate. It works well with the back splash and counter top.
 
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The_Black_Log Foler

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If you really think it needs sealing, there is a product for this called 'Duct seal' , in my area HD and Lowes sell it. Electrical supply places sell it too. It looks like grey playdoh.
I guess my question is, does anyone see a reason why it should be sealed? It is burial rated cat5e..
 

lurker

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I hate that everyone is painting their wood cabinets these days. I know fashions change and whatnot, but why would you want to cover up nice oak cabinet doors with paint so they might as well be particle board?
If I had started with pretty wood cabinets I would agree with you. Although my cabinets were/are solid wood with medium quality hardware (glides and hinges), they were just ugly and plain. The had that cheap ass spray on stain. No pretty grain or figure in the wood at all. They might as well have been particle board with a wood-like color.

I priced refacing them in hickory. The price was the same or more than just ripping them out and starting over. That wasn't going to happen. I painted these, with help for about $4k. New good looking boxes with good hardware was $15-$20k. I was shooting for an old world Provence look, so paint was the obvious choice. They'll be antiqued in the future. There's also the 'green' factor. Instead of taking all that wood and throwing it in the dumpster, I recycled by painting it instead.

Unrelated, but I'm on a roll. Keeping with the old world theme, I wanted marble countertops and a brick oven look backsplash behind the stove. Again, budget was a concern. I can tile the countertops (did tile work professionally for 10 years) with very high end marble appearing porcelain for around $10/sqft. including underlayment, thinset, grout, sealer, etc. Marble comes in at about $100/sqft installed and is the most porous material, next to concrete, you can use for a countertop. It's gorgeous but very prone to staining if you're not careful. Porcelain, on the other hand is impervious. Yes, you can chip it but I know how to remove a tile and replace it. I understand other folks may not be able to do that.

I'm not rollin' in dough. My wife and I are retired and have more time than money. We also like to do things ourselves instead of hiring it out. We are more than capable of fixing up this spec-house like kitchen and it will take us about 2-3 months but come in under $10k. New looking cabinets with new knobs and pulls, new countertops, new backslashes, new dimmable undercabinet lighting, new range hood, new granite-composite sink, new faucet and new breakfast nook table. And a happy wife.
 
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