Home Improvement

whoo

whoo

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Deathwing said:
Even to replace relatively large chunks of the cinder block itself? I'm getting up there this weekend to look at another issue, I'll get some pictures.
Click to expand...
Yeah, 3" isnt that big. If you have small chunks of block or stone you want to lay in the holes, thats ok but not normally necessary. The grout is just sand and concrete. If the block itself is crumbling, you have other issues. But if it broke due to settling, or was hit by something and is now stable, the grout will be structural enough for a 3" hole. Post photos though - always good to actually see it.
 
Lanx

Lanx

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$10 for a ryobi worklight, theyre going out fast, i looked at last night and showed 5 in stock at my store and theyre gone, but still some online (free shipping), fan is also 10bucks
www.homedepot.com

RYOBI 40V Cordless Battery Topper LED Work Light (Tool Only) RY40WL01B - The Home Depot

Expand your RYOBI 40V System with the RYOBI 40V Battery Topper LED Work Light. This light provides 1,000 lumens and 4 brightness modes, making it ideal for any situation and adaptable to various lighting
www.homedepot.com
 
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Hoss

Hoss

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Some of yall may know this and if we have a better construction thread, I missed it.

I have a studio we're going to put a window AC in and I'm trying to figure out how to size it.

It's a standalone 15x36 building with a 17ft ceiling at the peak. The standard formulas only use square footage, but how much does the total volume matter? I was googling it and got some wildly different advice. One said to add 1000 BTU per foot of wall over 8ft. That makes no sense because it doesn't take into account the overall size of the room. One said 25% per foot over 8ft. That would mean my 17 foot ceiling would be 225% more than I get from just using the area. One just said add 25% if the walls are over 8ft. What I'm wondering is, are those formulas assuming there's an occupied second story? Heat will rise, do I care if the top is too warm when I won't be up there? All we will have up there is lights and maybe some shit we store in the rafters.

It's a barn style roof. The walls are 8 ft, then there are a couple of stepps in the roof to where it meets up at the peak.

Not mine, but this is the same style to get an idea of how the roof is.


barn_landingpage_gallery_ptb9.jpg

maxresdefault.jpg
 
Lanx

Lanx

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Lanx said:
$10 for a ryobi worklight, theyre going out fast, i looked at last night and showed 5 in stock at my store and theyre gone, but still some online (free shipping), fan is also 10bucks
www.homedepot.com

RYOBI 40V Cordless Battery Topper LED Work Light (Tool Only) RY40WL01B - The Home Depot

Expand your RYOBI 40V System with the RYOBI 40V Battery Topper LED Work Light. This light provides 1,000 lumens and 4 brightness modes, making it ideal for any situation and adaptable to various lighting
www.homedepot.com
Click to expand...
oops i mistaken just thought these were regular 18v lights, they are the 40v, the ones for garden tools, i mean i have 40v too so it's fine, i just didn't think this tiny light would use 40v (somehow homedepot delivered this to me in 4hrs, lulz, wtf thats like the best deliver i've ever had)
 
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BrutulTM

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My policy on window air conditioners is that you always buy the biggest one that will fit in the window.
 
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Haus

Haus

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Lanx said:
$10 for a ryobi worklight, theyre going out fast, i looked at last night and showed 5 in stock at my store and theyre gone, but still some online (free shipping), fan is also 10bucks
www.homedepot.com

RYOBI 40V Cordless Battery Topper LED Work Light (Tool Only) RY40WL01B - The Home Depot

Expand your RYOBI 40V System with the RYOBI 40V Battery Topper LED Work Light. This light provides 1,000 lumens and 4 brightness modes, making it ideal for any situation and adaptable to various lighting
www.homedepot.com
Click to expand...
That's a great deal for $10, but I already have a light for my 40v batteries, that's also an inverter. (But admittedly cost more). It's come in phenomenally handy when we've had some power issues in our neighborhood.
www.homedepot.com

RYOBI 40V 300-Watt Power Source (Tool Only) RYi300BG - The Home Depot

Provide an essential and ultimate addition to your generator by selecting this affordable RYOBI Powered Inverter for Battery.
www.homedepot.com
 
Lanx

Lanx

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Haus said:
That's a great deal for $10, but I already have a light for my 40v batteries, that's also an inverter. (But admittedly cost more). It's come in phenomenally handy when we've had some power issues in our neighborhood.
www.homedepot.com

RYOBI 40V 300-Watt Power Source (Tool Only) RYi300BG - The Home Depot

Provide an essential and ultimate addition to your generator by selecting this affordable RYOBI Powered Inverter for Battery.
www.homedepot.com
Click to expand...
the good thing about the 10$ light is that it's a 360, so you can really direct where you need the light, i already started using it to repair my closets, it's nice, i can hang it up and point directly where i need it. and speaking of power it even has a usbc port to charge a phone, lulz
 
fris

fris

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Can confirm, at least in Texas, the posts rot just below the grass line. The bottom of the post is fine. Digging up broken posts is a super pain in the ass.
 
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GuardianX

GuardianX

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fris said:
Can confirm, at least in Texas, the posts rot just below the grass line. The bottom of the post is fine. Digging up broken posts is a super pain in the ass.
Click to expand...

Lucky, the posts I dug up for a fence repair and overhang supports were all rotted from the bottom up basically. The concrete basically just held the remains of a rotted post that flaked apart at a touch.

I have / had some terrible drainage in the yard and termites prior to replacing those though.
 
fris

fris

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ya, if it breaks just below the dirt, you've got work regardless how far down the rot is. If it's not rotted at all, i've heard you can drill into the remaining post and use that to pull it up. if there's enough of the 4x4 sticking out of the ground, you sometimes use that. i've drilled a hole through, got a thick steel pipe through the hole, and used a car jack to push the pole up.

last one I had, i had to dig it about 1/2 out, and then used to pickaxe things on either side and leverage it out.

the prob w/ digging the post & cement out is now you have a bigger hole and the next time it breaks you'll have to dig even more.

my neighbor did metal posts on his other half of his yard and asked me when I wanted to go half on the side we're sharing. i'll continue to put that off as long as possible.
 
Lanx

Lanx

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since i moved here, mine and at least 3 other neighbors i noticed their mailboxes, slanted or falling down, like mine they were all 4x4s in the ground and when i dug mine up, it was all rotted through, one neighbor didn't give a fuck and just put the back in and it's like 1ft shorter than the rest. i'm guessing since this culdesac was made in the 90s, thats 30years of rot catching up
 
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Captain Suave

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Steel posts. Fuck wood for fences. If I have to repair anything I'm making it permanent and maintenance-free within my lifetime. I say this as someone who has a wood shop and makes furniture for fun.
 
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GuardianX

GuardianX

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Captain Suave said:
Steel posts. Fuck wood for fences. If I have to repair anything I'm making it permanent and maintenance-free within my lifetime. I say this as someone who has a wood shop and makes furniture for fun.
Click to expand...

100%, Steel is 95% of my fence aside from the part that the "DIY guy" who owned this place before us decided he could handle even though he couldn't even handle the mailbox that is sitting at a pretty good angle.

I mean, the reality is that setting posts in the ground will outlast most of us here. I dunno, it just seems shitty to set someone else up for failure knowing that it'll be nicer for longer if I spend like...what...10 to 100 dollars more (depending entirely on the project of course).
 
whoo

whoo

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Hoss said:
Some of yall may know this and if we have a better construction thread, I missed it.

I have a studio we're going to put a window AC in and I'm trying to figure out how to size it.

It's a standalone 15x36 building with a 17ft ceiling at the peak. The standard formulas only use square footage, but how much does the total volume matter? I was googling it and got some wildly different advice. One said to add 1000 BTU per foot of wall over 8ft. That makes no sense because it doesn't take into account the overall size of the room. One said 25% per foot over 8ft. That would mean my 17 foot ceiling would be 225% more than I get from just using the area. One just said add 25% if the walls are over 8ft. What I'm wondering is, are those formulas assuming there's an occupied second story? Heat will rise, do I care if the top is too warm when I won't be up there? All we will have up there is lights and maybe some shit we store in the rafters.

It's a barn style roof. The walls are 8 ft, then there are a couple of stepps in the roof to where it meets up at the peak.

Not mine, but this is the same style to get an idea of how the roof is.


barn_landingpage_gallery_ptb9.jpg

maxresdefault.jpg
Click to expand...
Air volume matters a lot. Youre essentially doubling the air volum of a standard 8ft ceiling room. Heat rises. You want the AC instalked as high up the wall as you can put it. 15x 36 x 17 in a shed with only moderate insulation puts you at 2.5 tons to cool properly and maintain a reasonable humidity level.

If you're going to make it into a workshop or a living area, I'd go for a split disctless unit instead of a window unit. If you have to go window unit, go for 30,000 btu if you can find one that big. It will probably be very heavy and require a 240v 25A circuit.

Good luck.
 
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BrutulTM

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Wood fences are nice looking but yeah if you want it to last, steel is the way to go. I have a neighbor who built a set of drill stem corrals back in the 80's and every post just like it was when he built it. Wood corrals built then have probably been replaced 2-3 times by now or at least a lot of the posts have.
 
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