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Home Improvement
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Captain Suave
Caesar si viveret, ad remum dareris.
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When we redid our bathroom I put the controls on the side wall so you don't have to get wet to turn it on, but this... lol.
BrutulTM
Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
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Honestly, I can see why they would do it. In a shower like that there's no way to adjust the water temperature unless you are standing under it. Not being able to adjust the temperature during the shower would be a downside though. It would be better if the door was hung the other way so you could at least reach out and turn the knob without completely getting out of the shower but there's probably no easy way to have the hinges on the other side.
Not saying it was a good idea, but I can see what they were thinking.
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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or the illegal aliens building the house, read the floor plans wrong and they just kept on going
Lanx
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1 ryobi 6ah 40v won't charge, I opened it and reset it, nothing, ill try jump starting it soon. Bought a 3rd party 7.5ah as a backup, died after 5mins Lulz returned it. Doubt I will try another 3rd party gonna see how this jump starting will go
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Bought some 3rd party batteries off amazon. One didn’t work, returned it for another and it’s been working fine for a few years.
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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i have a 3rd party 6ah 18v that i just keep on a vacuum and it does work fine, just luck of the draw
Haus
I am Big Balls!
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I have both Ryobi and Generics in my 40v pool and they've been (knocking on wood) workhorses for me. Here's the generic I've been using :
And on another note. Today is another "spend stupid money on something which I'd rather not" day. Replacing the old and not so great electrical panel with a new, modern, and much more compliant one. (also upgrading to a 200amp disconnect from a 75) About to be without power for the day, and going to see if my little Predator generator which has been a beast for a couple years is still up to the task. (It's around 4000 watt)
With the new panel I'm getting an interconnect so I can push the house off the generator through a plug on the side of the house. With that I'll be upgrading to something with at least a 10kw run rate for the generator and the lil Predator will be the backup of the backup and/or for use on camping trips.
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To supplement the house central air I had an 8k btu Midea wall unit in my south facing gaming room here in the high desert. During the summer (like NOW) this room was unbearable during the day.
Yesterday I paid a local HVAC outfit $5400 to install a 2 ton Dankin mini split , installed 100% . It's about to run me out it's so fucking cold in here.
Also , yes I know I could do it myself but: even moving my crap out of the way so they could do their work has me so bad I cannot walk. There was 0.0% chance I would be able to do the work myself.
Yesterday I paid a local HVAC outfit $5400 to install a 2 ton Dankin mini split , installed 100% . It's about to run me out it's so fucking cold in here.
Also , yes I know I could do it myself but: even moving my crap out of the way so they could do their work has me so bad I cannot walk. There was 0.0% chance I would be able to do the work myself.
Siliconemelons
Naxxramas 1.0 Raider
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5400 for it and install ain’t bad, round my parts I was looking at 7500 for a mini split install (wtf)
The outdoor unit expels the opposite air that your doing (if you have a heat pump) so cooling inside, it spits out heat, heating inside it spits out cool etc…so…dont put it inside? The garage? It needs to cycle ambient air, eventually it would “condition” oppositely your garage and have issues with exchange.
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I got 2 quotes. One from the company that currently (but not for fucking long) services my main AC system. They wanted $7668 for the same work, same size unit but doesn't state what brand. They also only carried a 3 year warranty.
The ones that did the install, have 2 year labor , 10 year parts warranty. When they came yesterday it was a small army. They started at 7am and were gone by 11:30. This is an inverter setup so power draw should not be too bad and in a pinch I could make the whole house comfortable if the main AC goes out. It was a no-brainer for me.
EDIT: Forgot to mention, before Biden made our money worthless, I had the same work quoted by the same company that ultimately did the work, it was $3K then. Unfortunately it wasn't in the cards at that time.
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Falstaff
Ahn'Qiraj Raider
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Yeah that’s why it’s a problem, it’s either run it to the opposite end of my house or put it on my front porch.
Siliconemelons
Naxxramas 1.0 Raider
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any roof dynamics to put it there? I have seen all in one duct systems on the roof cut into directly the ducts in the attic.
Also go euro mode and just mount it to the wall outside, they usually come w wall mounting kits
Also go euro mode and just mount it to the wall outside, they usually come w wall mounting kits
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Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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you can mount a mini split in the ceiling it's called a ceiling cassette
it's for the women who hate looking at it mounted on the wall
(i don't know about that one, it's just an example search)
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Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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you can put mini split condensors on the roof
(thats just an example)
actually you can also use the ceiling cassette i just linked previously too, it would probably be an easier install if your roof mount, straight up
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you can put mini split condensors on the roof
(thats just an example)
actually you can also use the ceiling cassette i just linked previously too, it would probably be an easier install if your roof mount, straight up
This seems like a good idea, but it's bad for a couple reasons at least. First, if you need to get it serviced it's a pain in the butt. And service prices go up as soon as you mention "roof top mounted unit." Second, if it's running, you're going to hear/feel it vibrating. More than you think. They can do a decent job with rubber mounts, but the rubber ages quickly and becomes hard. If you're mounting it on a roof over a garage and not a bedroom that might be better.
I'm doing some work with a local school. It's in an old building - about 130 years old - and it was heated by ancient boilers. We're in the process of doing the entire school with mini-splits. Some company that builds these things is giving them a killer deal. They can do 4 classrooms per outdoor unit. It's a lot of units. The second floor units will all be on the roof, but it's a flat roof with walk-out access. The rest will be in an outdoor courtyard that is not used, so it's a pretty great option for them. Plus, they can program each classroom to heat/cool independently. This will, in the long term save them huge dollars. Plus, the units for the high-use classrooms will need replacing sooner than the others, so it starts spreading out the cost in the future when equipment ages out. Plus it will provide good, reliable heat/cooling for the entire building, which is an exceptional thing with an old building like that. And because of how the units work, all the electric can be run outside in conduit, so there is no need to do that to the interior of the building. And the final benefit is that we can cut out all the pipes and radiators from the classrooms, reclaim that space, and not worry about students burning themselves on hot radiators. Of course it is going to cost just around $1 million (which is a lot, but replacing the boilers was going to be $1.5 million, and that doesn't include air conditioning). But when it's all done, the school administrators can sit at their computer and make sure everyone has heat/cooling they need. The teachers will also have access to their classrooms. It feels like a perfect solution.
Now I start the process of installing about 275 units.
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Siliconemelons
Naxxramas 1.0 Raider
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Yeah I would just wall mount it outside near-ish whatever room your doing. For that school project...well I would really kind of do the same, you do not want stupid long copper going everywhere - when there is a problem, your checking on tons of hidden copper insulated lines if they all go run to a big main area. The 4 head outside units are bigger, but it also is a hydra of copper condenser lines - as each head unit has 2 copper "Big and small" run to the outside unit, along with a com cable (like speaker wire or heck, cat5 will most likely work) - so having the outside units "Near" the 4 rooms it serves would, imo, help in the long run once they need service or replacement. So for 4 head unit outside unit, it will have 8 copper run to it and 4 com wires... SOME the outside unit also distro's power to the head unit, so if its like that..then..+4 lol
I am sure they thought of all this stuff, but if the things are a super good deal on units, may as well buy extra complete sets just to have - as unfortunately, most "AC guys" will not want to "fix" mini-splits as such, they will just want to replace them.
If you can use pre-charged lines (such as the mr. cool, but that's not the only ones) - standard facilities people can swap out new lines and such.
I am sure they thought of all this stuff, but if the things are a super good deal on units, may as well buy extra complete sets just to have - as unfortunately, most "AC guys" will not want to "fix" mini-splits as such, they will just want to replace them.
If you can use pre-charged lines (such as the mr. cool, but that's not the only ones) - standard facilities people can swap out new lines and such.
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All true. We have an immaculate plan for the copper, and stuff is located as near as possible to everything. Minimal copper lines whenever possible. The company that is going to install them is committed to a ten year service plan at a reduced rate and not increase more than a (very reasonable) amount if necessary. I actually feel pretty good about going this direction.
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