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Burns

Burns

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Noodleface said:
That makes sense. I don't see a sag but you're probably right. I don't feel any moisture in the area at all
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The line at the bottom of the picture, where the wall and ceiling meet, makes it look like a sag but it could be a trick of the angle/lens. Take a 3 foot or longer level and get up there; should see how bad it's off/sagging. Could also allow you to feel if any more pockets of mud are separating from the ceiling. Never scraped mud from drywall, but it might not be that hard to just redo the whole thing.

Did a quick YouTube search and of course there are a bunch of drywall tips. This guy looks like a pro and has a whole bunch of drywall vids (including mudding an entire ceiling w/ texture):
 
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Noodleface

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Burns said:
The line at the bottom of the picture, where the wall and ceiling meet, makes it look like a sag but it could be a trick of the angle/lens. Take a 3 foot or longer level and get up there; should see how bad it's off/sagging. Could also allow you to feel if any more pockets of mud are separating from the ceiling. Never scraped mud from drywall, but it might not be that hard to just redo the whole thing.

Did a quick YouTube search and of course there are a bunch of drywall tips. This guy looks like a pro and has a whole bunch of drywall vids (including mudding an entire ceiling w/ texture):
Click to expand...

Thanks. Yeah the wall just looks like that because the bozo that did the bathroom did some questionable work with that area. I think some moisture just got under the drywall mud and a whole section started peeling off
 
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mkopec

mkopec

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Noodleface said:
Thanks. Yeah the wall just looks like that because the bozo that did the bathroom did some questionable work with that area. I think some moisture just got under the drywall mud and a whole section started peeling off
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If fixing this, I would score the spot with some tool, scratch the paper/paint off the spot with a screwdriver or something in some random pattern. Also remove the loose pieces that are not adhered to the ceiling around it. So the same shit does not happen in the future.

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Think of this as sanding something before putting on paint so it does not just crack off. Usually there is a layer of paint there which is not conducive to a good contact between the mud and the drywall. This is also why it failed in the first place. get yourself a nice wide dywall mud tool, like 12" with a plastic mud pan the same size, they are pretty cheap. Buy a premixed small bucket of the shit at home cheapo and mix in a bit of water into it in that mud pan. This will make it smoother and easier to spread. Go in stages, fill the hole first, let it set, then go for one more layer to make everything smooth around it, bigger the better to spread out the spot into 2xor 3x its size so its harder to notice it was fixed. Because there is some shrinkage when the stuff sets and water evaporates.
 
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Y

Yeahs73

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That looks more like plaster, shouldnt really matter just the chipped away area is the base coat and not wall board.
 
mkopec

mkopec

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If there is paint below the plaster hack job, yeah you need to score it, like I said its why it failed in the fist place. And that picture it sure looks like paint below the plaster. they prob put a skim coat over the ceiling because it looked like shit or whatever. If not scoring it because youre afraid, go in there with like 80 grit and scuff the area.

I had a room in my current house where they just put wallpaper right on the primered drywall when the place was built. Even before painting it. So it was such a bitch to get off because removing the wall paper actually removed some of the wallboard paper underneath. It was a fucking mess. I had to skim coat all the walls after. Some people just dont do a job properly. If they were to skim coat a wall or ceiling WITH paint on it, they need to sand the area so the fucking mud/plaster has something to stick to. Its just common sense.
 
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BrutulTM

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Yeah I don't think scraping is going to work very well, you'll probably have to sand it down. Honestly if you don't have drywall skills, you have very little chance of not making it look like dogshit, especially since there's a texture to match. Do yourself a favor and find a handyman that does drywall and pay them to fix it. It will take them very little time and the result will be much better if they know what they're doing.
 
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mkopec

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BrutulTM said:
Yeah I don't think scraping is going to work very well, you'll probably have to sand it down. Honestly if you don't have drywall skills, you have very little chance of not making it look like dogshit, especially since there's a texture to match. Do yourself a favor and find a handyman that does drywall and pay them to fix it. It will take them very little time and the result will be much better if they know what they're doing.
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That just looks like texture from paint roller to me. Honestly thats like 30 min job at most. and anyone can do it. You can texture the paint to match with a bigger pile roller after. Just paint the whole ceiling after texturing the spot a few times with paint before. I would def NOT be hiring some schlep to do this for me for $100s of dollars when its shit that every homeowner should learn to do IMO. This is not like a popcorn texture, which I agree would be a pain in the ass to match.
 
Noodleface

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Honestly I don't really care if the texture matches, I just want to repair it mostly and pick off the peeling parts.
 
300Lane1

300Lane1

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I asked about hot tubs late last year and didn't get a whole lot of feedback. My back/body had enough so we took the plunge (literally). We had 2 existing patio covers (over both sliding doors) which left a perfect spot for the hot tub and a gazebo.

Disregard the patio. Will be hitting it with some SH and a surface cleaner once the weather gets a bit warmer.
Tub1.jpg
Tub2.jpg
 
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Aazrael

Aazrael

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"Renovated" the last room in the house last month. It used to have wallpapers half falling off and was pretty nasty.

Tore all the wallpapers down and painted everything and added some acoustic panels as decoration. Also purchased some new desks.

Pretty pleased with it. I'm not an expert at these things so they vary in success.

Screenshot_20260206-172203.pngScreenshot_20260206-172239.png
 
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Aazrael

Aazrael

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Izo said:
Looks good. Now do the floor.
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Yeah, that one I skipped for now. It's pretty worn and needs to be replaced. I think I even got 2 boxes of new floor in the cellar that's over from the bedroom. Might just need one or two more boxes to finish it.
 
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Hatorade

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Going to pull all the carpet out of the living room and hallway, the plan is to leave it there for a bit until we decide on tile or whatever. If we end up polishing/stain the concrete will that cause problems to tile it in the future?
 
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Yeahs73

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Hatorade said:
Going to pull all the carpet out of the living room and hallway, the plan is to leave it there for a bit until we decide on tile or whatever. If we end up polishing/stain the concrete will that cause problems to tile it in the future?
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Would assume if you did any of that, you might have to etch it for tile after the fact, probably not that big of a deal.
 
Oblio

Oblio

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I am converting my shop into a Gym. It is roughly 20x20 and unfinished, aside from electrical. I am going to finish it, but I don't want to do drywall. I was thinking of using some sort of panels and I am looking for some suggestions. Thanks!
 
Burns

Burns

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Oblio said:
I am converting my shop into a Gym. It is roughly 20x20 and unfinished, aside from electrical. I am going to finish it, but I don't want to do drywall. I was thinking of using some sort of panels and I am looking for some suggestions. Thanks!
Click to expand...
If you want something that might take a little more abuse in terms of a more humid/hot area and getting bumped by weights then you could also look at cement/hardie board. The thin/cheap stuff wont look as nice as the wood panels but it should be the next cheapest option to drywall. It's not as easy to work with as drywall, but I don't remember needing to use any power tools to cut it. I doubt the 1/4" would take a dropped/rolling dumbbell/plate as well as plywood or a wood panel but it should do better in a hot/humid environment.

It's one of the better materials for sound deadening as well. If that is part of the goal, you can really go to town with a double layer of cement board with mass load vinyl in between, but that will get heavy in a hurry.

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