Home Improvement

Kobayashi

Kobayashi

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fred sanford said:
If it were just those two, yes I would go grab what little spackle I have and fill them up. But we’re talking about 40+ holes, so I’d have to buy a bunch more spackle and crawl around the floor patching all of the holes. Based on the feedback I’ve gotten, I’m not too worried about it. All of my baseboards are sealed top and bottom so I don’t think there will be any issue with airflow.
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You're probably OK leaving it, but if it was me, I'd probably get a bag of easy sand 90 and patch up the holes. If you follow this guy's instructions, and buy like 20 bucks worth of materials/tools he recommends, you'd have it done in under an hour and you'd never have to worry about it in the future. It goes on way easier than that pre-made shit.

 
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Janx

Janx

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Lanx said:
if youre still doing this for yourself i recommend getting an
ea9f20132110c5d91ccc4cf2eaf2a92a.png


ozone generator

this thing will pummel any bad smells, do NOT go in the room, preferably leave the house for 12hours when you do it, it will literally kill you. you can even test it out on your car, my first time doing it, i did it to my car, closed doors then i opened the door and the whiff, whoa, i started dry heaving, like this must be what mustard gas is like, and my car had that smell for 2 days (i didn't even touch it) but after? neutral. it was a never smoked in civic, but 20years old. i've used it a good bit, used it on my old house, used it again on the house when i had a huge leak in the basement i didn't know about, 2 days straight and no damp smell.
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This is also a good pest killer solution if you dont have people/pets/plants in the area your blasting. Obviously there's a time component to let it run + ventilate after.
 
Siliconemelons

Siliconemelons

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Lanx said:
if youre still doing this for yourself i recommend getting an
ea9f20132110c5d91ccc4cf2eaf2a92a.png


ozone generator

this thing will pummel any bad smells, do NOT go in the room, preferably leave the house for 12hours when you do it, it will literally kill you. you can even test it out on your car, my first time doing it, i did it to my car, closed doors then i opened the door and the whiff, whoa, i started dry heaving, like this must be what mustard gas is like, and my car had that smell for 2 days (i didn't even touch it) but after? neutral. it was a never smoked in civic, but 20years old. i've used it a good bit, used it on my old house, used it again on the house when i had a huge leak in the basement i didn't know about, 2 days straight and no damp smell.
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Janx said:
This is also a good pest killer solution if you dont have people/pets/plants in the area your blasting. Obviously there's a time component to let it run + ventilate after.
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If you do your car, you really only need to run it like 15min or so.

Also- it can dry out rubber seals- so do not over- do it on the car.

It drives out oxygen so it can kill you- but as mentioned it can kill bugs as well, but it takes some time as bugs can go awhile without air.

It does work well on odors that are organic in nature as it starves the bacteria etc.
 
Lanx

Lanx

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table saw, use push sticks
a63b4e5e643d2683ff6488280d436c67.png


or this expensive plastic thing, which just has more grippy parts
ec5c1e4c03d517a84e57955526c60248.png


butchers, naw



btw, i heard you like microplastics in your cubed chicken
 
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Kajiimagi

Kajiimagi

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Burren said:
Ok, this is brilliant

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Constant fucking hassle in the electrical trade. Anytime the drywall guy wanted to give me grief (and it only happened ONCE) I would go get an EMT bender and 'find my own boxes'.

Also, that's a cute video but unless that is you in the video it's not happening. They are under too much pressure to mark that shit out.
 
Burren

Burren

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Kajiimagi said:
Constant fucking hassle in the electrical trade. Anytime the drywall guy wanted to give me grief (and it only happened ONCE) I would go get an EMT bender and 'find my own boxes'.

Also, that's a cute video but unless that is you in the video it's not happening. They are under too much pressure to mark that shit out.
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Hah no not me. But, as a home owner who does handyman stuff occasionally, I think it’s clever. I just had work done in my garage and whoever built the house decided that the ceiling joists didn’t need to all run the same direction. That really pissed me off.
 
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Haus

Haus

I am Big Balls!
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Burren said:
Ok, this is brilliant

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When I rebuilt my detatched garage I did this, Spray paint to mark each stud since on the concrete floor and ceiling above. I cannot thumbs up this idea enough. In my case it wasn't drywall, it was OSB, but same concept.
 
Siliconemelons

Siliconemelons

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Guess its time... ikea it is.

Other options do not offer nearly as many drawers ... they are all shelves - It is a small kitchen and trying to optimize the space and storage the most we can.

This involves removing a 1ft drop down tray ceiling, redoing all that and texture, removing old faux beams and adding new more "modern" ones - removing and replacing the kitchen tile , building a half wall for the space the kitchen extends now into the new dining room (currently living/sitting room) - moving the oven 220 plug from where it is now (where the microwave and the tall pantry duo is) to where the sink is now (where the range is) and then moving the plumbing for the new location of the sink. Can some kind of can lights where the new kitchen ceiling is.

Screenshot 2026-04-14 at 11.28.43 AM.png
Screenshot 2026-04-14 at 11.27.39 AM.png
 
Lanx

Lanx

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Siliconemelons said:
Guess its time... ikea it is.

Other options do not offer nearly as many drawers ... they are all shelves - It is a small kitchen and trying to optimize the space and storage the most we can.

This involves removing a 1ft drop down tray ceiling, redoing all that and texture, removing old faux beams and adding new more "modern" ones - removing and replacing the kitchen tile , building a half wall for the space the kitchen extends now into the new dining room (currently living/sitting room) - moving the oven 220 plug from where it is now (where the microwave and the tall pantry duo is) to where the sink is now (where the range is) and then moving the plumbing for the new location of the sink. Can some kind of can lights where the new kitchen ceiling is.

View attachment 624956View attachment 624957
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that coffee nook looks small
 
Siliconemelons

Siliconemelons

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It originally - was a in wall oven and microwave - but it was hard to get a grip on if I could use the ikea shelving w/o the ikea appliances - and we needed to get new appliances before the complete kitchen reno - so I just got a normal range (induction... love induction) - and was going to be a induction cooktop where the range is now.

So there will be a microwave over that - ikea just does not have a good placeholder.

It is a small kitchen- I did have a kitchen designer come in and look - they had some ideas based off the current design, it was not that different just kind of new stuff. I then showed her this / my idea and she was like "oh, that is actually a really good idea for re configuring the space... probably the best you can get without wall removal." - the wall shown with the sink is where all the pipes and electrical route- so it is not getting removed or "open concept" it already is open to the new dining room (currently the dining room is smaller and beyond that door by the fridge)
 
Kajiimagi

Kajiimagi

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Burren said:
Hah no not me. But, as a home owner who does handyman stuff occasionally, I think it’s clever. I just had work done in my garage and whoever built the house decided that the ceiling joists didn’t need to all run the same direction. That really pissed me off.
Click to expand...
Sorry bro I didn't realize this was about home improvement. I was speaking about doing it commercially. I'll get off my high horse now , ;)
 
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Intrinsic

Intrinsic

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Siliconemelons said:
Guess its time... ikea it is.

Other options do not offer nearly as many drawers ... they are all shelves - It is a small kitchen and trying to optimize the space and storage the most we can.

This involves removing a 1ft drop down tray ceiling, redoing all that and texture, removing old faux beams and adding new more "modern" ones - removing and replacing the kitchen tile , building a half wall for the space the kitchen extends now into the new dining room (currently living/sitting room) - moving the oven 220 plug from where it is now (where the microwave and the tall pantry duo is) to where the sink is now (where the range is) and then moving the plumbing for the new location of the sink. Can some kind of can lights where the new kitchen ceiling is.

View attachment 624956View attachment 624957
Click to expand...
Could you put the fridge where the double oven/nook is now and the nook adjacent to the sink? I’d only be worried about opening the left door of the fridge past 70 degrees or so without a large spacer between there and the wall. Putting it in the other spot gives full clearance, but you’d also need water to that spot which is a different issue. The coffee nook next to your sink also is easier trip for rinsing out and disposing of the pot/carafe and doing clean up. I haven’t had great success with down vent ranges but depending on the cooking you do even an overhead vent may not matter or be concern at all.
 
Siliconemelons

Siliconemelons

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The fridge is not counter depth like the one shown in the mockup - it goes to the edge of the open doorway, its how the spot was designed - we thought about getting a counter depth one, but it only really would give us less fridge space, as gaining room there really does not "do" anything space or aesthetics -wise for the setup.

I quickly made kinda our current setup- with honey oak cabs and normal butcher block counter tops... its so... WOOD... this does not do it ugly-justice.

Also this is with the lower tray ceiling - opening up the ceiling will do a lot to make things look and feel bigger and more open.

One of those doors that are just french doors... one goes to a craft room, the other is a walk in pantry - we didn't always have that- hence this standup pantry... in reality the countertop extends a foot and its. a little "bar" but not much. The orig orig kitchen had high little cabs across from the corner cab over the sink, it was very enclosing with the drop down ceiling at them.


Screenshot 2026-04-15 at 3.47.46 PM.png
Screenshot 2026-04-15 at 3.47.13 PM.png
 
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Lanx

Lanx

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Siliconemelons said:
The fridge is not counter depth like the one shown in the mockup - it goes to the edge of the open doorway, its how the spot was designed - we thought about getting a counter depth one, but it only really would give us less fridge space, as gaining room there really does not "do" anything space or aesthetics -wise for the setup.

I quickly made kinda our current setup- with honey oak cabs and normal butcher block counter tops... its so... WOOD... this does not do it ugly-justice.

Also this is with the lower tray ceiling - opening up the ceiling will do a lot to make things look and feel bigger and more open.

One of those doors that are just french doors... one goes to a craft room, the other is a walk in pantry - we didn't always have that- hence this standup pantry... in reality the countertop extends a foot and its. a little "bar" but not much. The orig orig kitchen had high little cabs across from the corner cab over the sink, it was very enclosing with the drop down ceiling at them.


View attachment 625156View attachment 625157
Click to expand...
that looks better
 
fred sanford

fred sanford

Sanford & Son: Owner, Operator
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Siliconemelons said:
The fridge is not counter depth like the one shown in the mockup - it goes to the edge of the open doorway, its how the spot was designed - we thought about getting a counter depth one, but it only really would give us less fridge space, as gaining room there really does not "do" anything space or aesthetics -wise for the setup.

I quickly made kinda our current setup- with honey oak cabs and normal butcher block counter tops... its so... WOOD... this does not do it ugly-justice.

Also this is with the lower tray ceiling - opening up the ceiling will do a lot to make things look and feel bigger and more open.

One of those doors that are just french doors... one goes to a craft room, the other is a walk in pantry - we didn't always have that- hence this standup pantry... in reality the countertop extends a foot and its. a little "bar" but not much. The orig orig kitchen had high little cabs across from the corner cab over the sink, it was very enclosing with the drop down ceiling at them.


View attachment 625156View attachment 625157
Click to expand...
Do you know what fridge you're getting? Check the specs on it. Some fridges want/need extra space around them for airflow, otherwise they'll run too much and get hot. I have a similar setup to you and the fridge I have recommends about a 6 inch gap behind and 1-2 inches on each side.
 
Lanx

Lanx

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fred sanford said:
Do you know what fridge you're getting? Check the specs on it. Some fridges want/need extra space around them for airflow, otherwise they'll run too much and get hot. I have a similar setup to you and the fridge I have recommends about a 6 inch gap behind and 1-2 inches on each side.
Click to expand...
falcon punch a hole in the wall
 
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