Lanx
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Home Improvement
- Thread starter Picasso3
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aahh ok gotcha. Yeah I have I think (4) for mine in the garage.
EDIT: Also if you are going through 1 a year maybe check all the wire connections and the grounds. Sounds like there may be a stray volt. Near strikes can do that too.
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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ok so fan has been acting up all weekend and ultimately just seized, i put in a replacement motor friday, i should be getting it in a hr or 2, the hard part was removing the fan from the motor, 30years of rust, lulz, lots of wd40, i even sanded away all the rust, and i could not pry the motor from the staeder, had to use the hydrolic kit to break it apart
my neighbor thought i was in trouble, i guess cuz theres an ac unit just all taken apart, lying on top of another ac unit, i told him i'm just waiting for the new motor to come soon.
Fucker
Log Wizard
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Yep.
They all use some variant of a ripped off Honda/Yamaha/Kawasaki engines design. Hence the nicknames Chonda, Chamaha, Chawasaki. A lot of these engines come out of the same factory, and use the same type generator units. The BIG difference is support. Champion has good support and prices. Same thing from Harbor Freight has bad support but same price.
Beyond that, break in care on these Chinese Piles of Shit means quite a lot. Run them at light load for 5 hours and change the oil after. Change at every 5 hours after that until about 25 hours use. If it hasn't blown itself apart at that point, it probably won't. Really important to get that oil changed every 5 hours from new, though. General care, too. Use non-ethanol fuel and stabilize before tucking them away for half a year. Modern corn fuel is shit and plugs everything up pretty quickly even stabilized.
lurker
Ahn'Qiraj Raider
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Water tasted odd (slightly salty) coming out of the fridge water dispenser. It was fine straight out of the tap. Thought at first it was the water softener acting up again but nope them damn filters.
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Haus
I am Big Balls!
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So this weekends project (which will bleed easily and handily into next week). Swap out the desktops on the desks in our office for my wife and I. Also, install lifting desk frames for the desktop surfaces.
Out : Ikea basic table/desktop surfaces. Installed in 2011. Desktop surfaces are that hollowcore nonsense with laminate. It's been pretty durable (15 years), but definitely worn all to hell.
In : Heavea countertop wood slabs from Floor'n'Decor, sealed and prepped.
Step one, they take over the garage, guess we're parking in the driveway for a few days...
![20261024_135646[1].jpg](https://www.firesofheaven.org/attachments/20261024_135646-1-jpg.644764/ "20261024_135646[1].jpg")
(That is also just after first coat, while it was drying...)
Testing on the bottoms if I could shorten the expected 12-24 dry cycle a little since it was a warm (80+ degree) day with relatively low humidity. So at the end of Saturday we had three coats on the bottoms. Testing ~7 hour dry times. They touch completely dry, and pass the "press a cotton ball and nothing sticks" test as well. meaning on super early coat, one mid day coat, one coat before bed. Comparison of the raw wood versus the 3 coat applied version (taken this morning):
![20261025_090323[1].jpg](https://www.firesofheaven.org/attachments/20261025_090323-1-jpg.644765/ "20261025_090323[1].jpg")
3x full slabs (60"x30") , One slab trimmed to 52"x30" for fitment issues in the office. These will combine into essentially a big ass F shaped desk. More pics coming as this flows along for those interested. Of note, I completely see why ever site/article I read said that arm-r-seal was the head and shoulders above leader on what to use. It's been a cakewalk to apply, didn't need any incredibly stupid prep work, and looks/fees great.
Out : Ikea basic table/desktop surfaces. Installed in 2011. Desktop surfaces are that hollowcore nonsense with laminate. It's been pretty durable (15 years), but definitely worn all to hell.
In : Heavea countertop wood slabs from Floor'n'Decor, sealed and prepped.
Step one, they take over the garage, guess we're parking in the driveway for a few days...
(That is also just after first coat, while it was drying...)
Testing on the bottoms if I could shorten the expected 12-24 dry cycle a little since it was a warm (80+ degree) day with relatively low humidity. So at the end of Saturday we had three coats on the bottoms. Testing ~7 hour dry times. They touch completely dry, and pass the "press a cotton ball and nothing sticks" test as well. meaning on super early coat, one mid day coat, one coat before bed. Comparison of the raw wood versus the 3 coat applied version (taken this morning):
3x full slabs (60"x30") , One slab trimmed to 52"x30" for fitment issues in the office. These will combine into essentially a big ass F shaped desk. More pics coming as this flows along for those interested. Of note, I completely see why ever site/article I read said that arm-r-seal was the head and shoulders above leader on what to use. It's been a cakewalk to apply, didn't need any incredibly stupid prep work, and looks/fees great.
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Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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did you buy the frames yet? if not make sure it's dual motor, cuz single motor is so slow
Haus
I am Big Balls!
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Definitely, it's a pair of these bad boys. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D3ZN4G4M
I have a mild concern over the "330lb capacity" since the slabs themselves are ~65 lbs. Which means once you add a small monitor lifter/hutch , dual monitors, and assorted desk nonsense it will be fine, but right on the edge of supporting sex on the desk or not.... So I'll probably have to put in some kind of OSHA warning sign.
The primary desktop surfaces will raise/lower. The other two are effectively side tables with a fixed height. General idea :
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Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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yea i wouldn't worry, in years of use i haven't seen this dual motor sit/stand struggle at all
the only issue we ever had was the whack ass programming cuz it's chinesium, haha keep that manual around, especially when you want it to "remember" your settings (so you can just hit 1 for down and hit 2 for your programmed heights)
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