Ok, I live in the frozen tundra that is Minnesota and both my driver and passenger side windows keep coming out of the clamps that hold them to the door due to being frozen etc. My question is this. Is it safe to really wrench down on the clamps that hold them into the lifting mechanism or will I shatter the window if I do? If that is the case, should I just get new clamps for both sides?
The Auto Repair Thread
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Fifey
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Your window is freezing to the run channel(the up and down bits) and wrenching down on the clamp part probably won't do much good and likely you will go ham and break the window.
I'm not from freezing parts of the world but I would recommend just ample amounts of white grease lube in your run channels to keep them supple and possibly scraping the area where the glass hits the rubber.
FWIW, I do autobody repair.
I'm not from freezing parts of the world but I would recommend just ample amounts of white grease lube in your run channels to keep them supple and possibly scraping the area where the glass hits the rubber.
FWIW, I do autobody repair.
Hekotat
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You don't want a ton of pressure on the glass, it will withstand quite a bit of but you take it to far and you will just spiderweb/shatter the whole thing. I'd just make them snug and do what the OP recommended with the white grease.
Also, you could try Google searching your particular car, something like "2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee window fix". Might be a forum our there for that specific car with that issue and possibly they worked out a fix.
Also, you could try Google searching your particular car, something like "2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee window fix". Might be a forum our there for that specific car with that issue and possibly they worked out a fix.
Lejina
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This varies from mechanism to another, some have an actual clamp that sets in a hole drilled thru the window and others it's more like a rail going all the bottom of the window. If you get the right angle, you may push the window down back in place with the second type, but for the former it's not going to happen without a lot of luck. Best is to remove the plastic cover and check out what is going down there.
As fifey said, dry out and grease your rubber seal.
As fifey said, dry out and grease your rubber seal.
I guess I will just have to go the grease route and hope for the best. I have already taken off the side panel, popped the two little rubber hole covers, and pushed the window back down into the two clamps. I have tightened them before but just making sure not to go crazy and shatter the glass. It was great fun to do at 3am while buzzed and freezing in a downtown parking lot. Thank god that I have a socket set and a tool box in the trunk of my car
rename to Tuco's car repair thread and put the picture of his wooden bumper in the first post, plz
Dandai
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I smell exhaust in my car when it's idling (when I first turn it on, sitting at a light, etc). 2005 Chevy Impala. I've read it might be the O2 sensor going bad, but my check engine light hasn't lit up. I bought it new 10 years ago in November. No major maintenance needed yet, but I do have a blown head gasket and a few oil related leaks were noted last week when I had my oil changed.
Lejina
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Can be an number of things. Most usual is running rich on gas, which is most apparent at idle. O2 sensor could cause that and whatever else that could fuck up your gas/air ratio. Look at the smoke at the exhaust pipe, white smoke would be a hint especially if you can actually smell unburnt gasoline.
Otherwise, cracked manifold or leaking exhaust pipes. The exhaust would basically leak right under the hood, then thru the sides of it and is then sucked in the air vents below your windshield. To have the car on a lift and just going around the exhaust system with your hands could tell you where is the leak.
I've had a hatchback back in the day, the trunk floor was so rusty, there were gaping holes and on idle the smoke would just go straight up in the trunk and in the cabin. So there's that option too I guess!
Otherwise, cracked manifold or leaking exhaust pipes. The exhaust would basically leak right under the hood, then thru the sides of it and is then sucked in the air vents below your windshield. To have the car on a lift and just going around the exhaust system with your hands could tell you where is the leak.
I've had a hatchback back in the day, the trunk floor was so rusty, there were gaping holes and on idle the smoke would just go straight up in the trunk and in the cabin. So there's that option too I guess!
Dandai
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Turns out the seal on the fuel pump regulator has a tiny leak. My best guess is the original mechanic didn't even bother popping the hood.
So I have "fixed" my window coming out of its clamp issue three times now and it still comes out even with it isn't winter (the window getting frozen to the crease). Any of you grease monkeys think that simply putting lock tight on the screws will fix my problem or should I just buckle down and buy two new clamps and completely tear apart my door? If you think I should get the claps, is that a specialty item that you need to get from the dealership or will the auto parts store have it?
Thanks
Thanks
Joeboo
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Don't have a question, I just want to bitch. Alternator went out on my 05 Ford Escape(was probably due, i've had it 10 years and almost 150K miles), Ruined my battery in the process, so whatever. $850 repair bill at the dealership, because my model of Escape (v6 4WD) has to have the alternator taken out from under the engine, and the drive axle removed to do so, so thats like 3.5 hours of labor.
What a horrible, horrible way to design an engine. WTF?
I saw some videos of people removing the alternator from the top, but it seems kinda sketchy, you have to pull it up from the bottom through a ton of wires and hoses and hope to god you don't snag something. The only direct, "official" way to the alternator is with the axle out of the way from underneath. Blech.
What a horrible, horrible way to design an engine. WTF?
I saw some videos of people removing the alternator from the top, but it seems kinda sketchy, you have to pull it up from the bottom through a ton of wires and hoses and hope to god you don't snag something. The only direct, "official" way to the alternator is with the axle out of the way from underneath. Blech.
Hekotat
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Ford has some of the worst engineering designs I've ever seen. Some of the shit we had to do just to change the oil in some of their cars in the late 90s was hilarious. You think a car company built on the American way (see shade tree mechanic) would be built around that idea in mind.
Joeboo
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Any ideas on this?
So I had my alternator and battery replaced a couple weeks ago.
today I'm driving home from work and start to hear a horrible, loud squealing sound from my engine(like a rubber belt squealing). Then all of a sudden ALL the lights on my dash come on(check emissions, check engine, battery light, etc) then the car dies.
I coast to the shoulder, put it in park, turn it off, then try to start it again for the hell of it. It starts, but I have no AC and no power steering, and my check battery light is on.
I managed to drive it back home with no power steering(but I did have power brakes I guess, no change in breaking), since it was only a couple miles.
What are the odds that this is related to the new alternator/battery, or is this something completely unrelated that is probably going to cost me another grand?
So I had my alternator and battery replaced a couple weeks ago.
today I'm driving home from work and start to hear a horrible, loud squealing sound from my engine(like a rubber belt squealing). Then all of a sudden ALL the lights on my dash come on(check emissions, check engine, battery light, etc) then the car dies.
I coast to the shoulder, put it in park, turn it off, then try to start it again for the hell of it. It starts, but I have no AC and no power steering, and my check battery light is on.
I managed to drive it back home with no power steering(but I did have power brakes I guess, no change in breaking), since it was only a couple miles.
What are the odds that this is related to the new alternator/battery, or is this something completely unrelated that is probably going to cost me another grand?
chaos
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I forgot this thread exists!
My van is doing some weird shit. In the mornings when I first turn it on the VDC light is coming on (2012 Nissan Quest) and when driving the BRAKE indicator will periodically turn on. Just a wild guess but I think the car is trying to tell me something need to be done on the brakes.
The weird thing is it only does this on the first start up of the morning. Like, if I start it up and drive tot he store of gym it does this. Then when leaving and going back home, no light, no nothing. Google says brake fluid in other models but has nothing to say about my van so I am assuming it is probably the same issue.
My van is doing some weird shit. In the mornings when I first turn it on the VDC light is coming on (2012 Nissan Quest) and when driving the BRAKE indicator will periodically turn on. Just a wild guess but I think the car is trying to tell me something need to be done on the brakes.
The weird thing is it only does this on the first start up of the morning. Like, if I start it up and drive tot he store of gym it does this. Then when leaving and going back home, no light, no nothing. Google says brake fluid in other models but has nothing to say about my van so I am assuming it is probably the same issue.
Fifey
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Lejina
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Your electrical power source is fucked. All the lights turn on because the different sensors are underfed.
First look if your alternator belt is still in place. If it is, look at its tension, it should feel pretty tight, if you feel like you could pull it off track with your bare hand, that's very wrong.
If you still have a belt and it is tight enough. Look if your battery poles and alternator connection are proper. Unlikely to cause the squealing you heard but a bad ground would explain the loss of electrical power. Next step is looking at your grounds on the engine block.
That is assuming the alternator or the battery aren't dead.
First look if your alternator belt is still in place. If it is, look at its tension, it should feel pretty tight, if you feel like you could pull it off track with your bare hand, that's very wrong.
If you still have a belt and it is tight enough. Look if your battery poles and alternator connection are proper. Unlikely to cause the squealing you heard but a bad ground would explain the loss of electrical power. Next step is looking at your grounds on the engine block.
That is assuming the alternator or the battery aren't dead.
Fifey
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You might just be low on brake fluid, check that first and see if it's topped off.
Lejina
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Id assume your pads need changing. Fluid should appear low, but that's a byproduct of the oil filling the cylinders of the brake calipers in order to make up for the thinner pads.
Have a look at your brake oil level and pop a wheel off and check your pads.
Cad
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Brake fluid takes quite literally 20 seconds to check, open the hood and look. If its not that (it probably is that) but if it's not that, if your car has pad wear sensors you might need to replace them/check connections.
Tip: only fill your brake fluid to about the middle of the reservoir, when you replace the pads and push the pistons back you'll pop the top off the reservoir and spill brake fluid everywhere if you fill it up when the pads are very thin.
Cad
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What the other guy said, they fucked up putting the belt back on and it just shredded.