What vehicle do you drive?
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Burns
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Kirun
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Burren
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Kirun
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How do you like it? I've been considering getting an RS6 or a Mercedes E-class. It's probably the boomer in me, but I love a sleeper wagon.
Burren
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I've always liked wagons. Don't know why. I'm 95% satisfied with it. There are rattles and buzzes in the dash at 6,000 miles that need to be addressed (which the dealer couldn't fix the first time) but otherwise its great. I use it to drive to Dallas and Austin all the time for work (from Houston) and its my around town car most of the time. Gas mileage is terrible, but i enjoy the experience. Its comfortable, roomy, has good audio, and keeps up with highway traffic just fine. Its a long car though, keep that in mind. Like, 3 row SUV long.
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Sheriff Cad
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I had an audio shop fix all the rattles in my 911 after installing a decent sound system, they did it in hours and it never rattled again despite pretty heavy volume levels in there. You might look into that option if you don't get any relief at the dealer.
Fucker
Log Wizard
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Burns
Naxxramas 1.0 Raider
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Be aware there are different ways to attack interior noise and when it comes to the constrained layer dampener material (Dynomat type) there are various levels of coverage that people believe is optimal.
Back when I researched it heavily, there were a lot of opinions on the car audio forums that car install shops massively over use Dynomat when you really only need to slap a large square or three in the middle of a panel to reduce it resonating and causing sound transfer/vibration. I think it was around ~50% coverage, maybe a little less, with optimal placement in the middle of the panel, where the panel had the most amount of flex.
Then you do maximum coverage with closed cell foam. That puts pressure on most fasteners and plastic trim interior panels to stop the rest of the existing rattles.
If you want to move into it being as quit as a high end luxury sedan you start getting into the heavier materials sandwiched between the closed cell foam (top layer) and the constrained layer dampener (bottom layer). Unfortunately, this will quickly start to add to the weight to your high performance machine as well as change balance ratios.
I don't remember what products I used, but it was not dynomat. The dynomat equivalent came in unrolled squares, similar to what's listed in the following site. I have no idea the quality of the product on said site, but they have a good little write up on the various sound materials for vehicles:
This is a company trying to sell their particular product line up, so doing more reading/research on it is probably advised.
How Sound Deadening Materials Work: Reference Information & Guide – ResoNix Sound Solutions
New to automotive sound deadening and treatment? In this article, we cover EVERYTHING to know about how sound deadening material works.
resonixsoundsolutions.com
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Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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dynomat is also ungodly disgusting to smellBe aware there are different ways to attack interior noise and when it comes to the constrained layer dampener material (Dynomat type) there are various levels of coverage that people believe is optimal.
Back when I researched it heavily, there were a lot of opinions on the car audio forums that car install shops massively over use Dynomat when you really only need to slap a large square or three in the middle of a panel to reduce it resonating and causing sound transfer/vibration. I think it was around ~50% coverage, maybe a little less, with optimal placement in the middle of the panel, where the panel had the most amount of flex.
Then you do maximum coverage with closed cell foam. That puts pressure on most fasteners and plastic trim interior panels to stop the rest of the existing rattles.
If you want to move into it being as quit as a high end luxury sedan you start getting into the heavier materials sandwiched between the closed cell foam (top layer) and the constrained layer dampener (bottom layer). Unfortunately, this will quickly start to add to the weight to your high performance machine as well as change balance ratios.
I don't remember what products I used, but it was not dynomat. The dynomat equivalent came in unrolled squares, similar to what's listed in the following site. I have no idea the quality of the product on said site, but they have a good little write up on the various sound materials for vehicles:
View attachment 622565
This is a company trying to sell their particular product line up, so doing more reading/research on it is probably advised.
How Sound Deadening Materials Work: Reference Information & Guide – ResoNix Sound Solutions
New to automotive sound deadening and treatment? In this article, we cover EVERYTHING to know about how sound deadening material works.
Sheriff Cad
scientia potentia est
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Just FYI man it's Dynamat not Dynomat.Be aware there are different ways to attack interior noise and when it comes to the constrained layer dampener material (Dynomat type) there are various levels of coverage that people believe is optimal.
Back when I researched it heavily, there were a lot of opinions on the car audio forums that car install shops massively over use Dynomat when you really only need to slap a large square or three in the middle of a panel to reduce it resonating and causing sound transfer/vibration. I think it was around ~50% coverage, maybe a little less, with optimal placement in the middle of the panel, where the panel had the most amount of flex.
Then you do maximum coverage with closed cell foam. That puts pressure on most fasteners and plastic trim interior panels to stop the rest of the existing rattles.
If you want to move into it being as quit as a high end luxury sedan you start getting into the heavier materials sandwiched between the closed cell foam (top layer) and the constrained layer dampener (bottom layer). Unfortunately, this will quickly start to add to the weight to your high performance machine as well as change balance ratios.
I don't remember what products I used, but it was not dynomat. The dynomat equivalent came in unrolled squares, similar to what's listed in the following site. I have no idea the quality of the product on said site, but they have a good little write up on the various sound materials for vehicles:
View attachment 622565
This is a company trying to sell their particular product line up, so doing more reading/research on it is probably advised.
How Sound Deadening Materials Work: Reference Information & Guide – ResoNix Sound Solutions
New to automotive sound deadening and treatment? In this article, we cover EVERYTHING to know about how sound deadening material works.
Number 1 trusted name in sound deadening and heat insulation
The original trusted brand of car sound deadening and heat insulation materials for automotive, home audio and marine RV. Made in USA -
www.dynamat.com
Burns
Naxxramas 1.0 Raider
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Only thing I really remembered about it, after spending hours reading about vehicle sound reduction, is to avoid Dynomat at all cost due to being the worst manufacturer on the market (outside of questionable china shit) that gets by on name recognition and making deals with installers!Just FYI man it's Dynamat not Dynomat.
Number 1 trusted name in sound deadening and heat insulation
The original trusted brand of car sound deadening and heat insulation materials for automotive, home audio and marine RV. Made in USA -
Burren
Bronze Baronet of the Realm
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Well, looks like I'll need to do proper research if we end up needing more insulation. I've been thinking this whole time its something loose and rattling around in the front left speaker or the heads-up display mechanism.Be aware there are different ways to attack interior noise and when it comes to the constrained layer dampener material (Dynomat type) there are various levels of coverage that people believe is optimal.
Back when I researched it heavily, there were a lot of opinions on the car audio forums that car install shops massively over use Dynomat when you really only need to slap a large square or three in the middle of a panel to reduce it resonating and causing sound transfer/vibration. I think it was around ~50% coverage, maybe a little less, with optimal placement in the middle of the panel, where the panel had the most amount of flex.
Then you do maximum coverage with closed cell foam. That puts pressure on most fasteners and plastic trim interior panels to stop the rest of the existing rattles.
If you want to move into it being as quit as a high end luxury sedan you start getting into the heavier materials sandwiched between the closed cell foam (top layer) and the constrained layer dampener (bottom layer). Unfortunately, this will quickly start to add to the weight to your high performance machine as well as change balance ratios.
I don't remember what products I used, but it was not dynomat. The dynomat equivalent came in unrolled squares, similar to what's listed in the following site. I have no idea the quality of the product on said site, but they have a good little write up on the various sound materials for vehicles:
View attachment 622565
This is a company trying to sell their particular product line up, so doing more reading/research on it is probably advised.
How Sound Deadening Materials Work: Reference Information & Guide – ResoNix Sound Solutions
New to automotive sound deadening and treatment? In this article, we cover EVERYTHING to know about how sound deadening material works.
Fucker
Log Wizard
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New vehicles are kept together with an assortment of plastic push pins and Tab A into Slot B affairs. A good service department will know which are the noise makers. Sometimes fixing one makes something else rattle. It becomes an exercise in fiddling around....not necessarily worth tossing a car over.
Nissan Versa not all that much different from a Bugatti Veyron in terms of the amount of Snap Fit™ shit they have on them. Every vehicle in between, too. None of these companies bolt or screw anything down if they can avoid it.
Also, it's an Audi. If you think it rattles at 6k miles, just wait until it hits 9k miles.
Burren
Bronze Baronet of the Realm
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I dunno man. My other cars that cost more don't rattle or make annoying noises. I expected a quiet car to be quiet. I get what you're saying though, its all mass-produced, modular, and to the lowest cost these days.
Sheriff Cad
scientia potentia est
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When the audio shop did my 911, it wasn't any deadening material except around the things rattling. They used test tones and went through frequencies, found the rattles caused by certain frequencies, and then put felt pads/expanding foam in the areas that rattled.
If you know what you're doing apparently it only takes a few hours. My hatch and dash were rattling like a 70's Pinto when even mild bass played.