We still have 50+ of the old style GW pop cap paints. Dark Angels Green 4 lyfe. Doubt any of them are salvageable unfortunately. Paints old enough to vote ffs.
28mm Miniature Tabletop Wargaming Thread
- Thread starter Jx3
- Start date
Palum
what Suineg set it to
- 23,543
- 33,953
Well, I have long since relocated them out of the original containers because they were awful at being sealed. I actually got a few back in production days (odd colors) that would be half/fully dry by time I got them in the mail...
GW stuff might be a bit over priced but honestly they have some of the best pigment ratios out there. My Vallejo's are all over the place but my GW stuff is always consistently high on pigments.
Guvnah
Lord Nagafen Raider
- 47
- 0
I have played 40k quite a bit in the past, and have been trying to figure out how to get engaged in the hobby again. I played Eldar 20 years ago in 2nd edition, Orks about 5 years ago, then Tyranids about 3 years ago. I like the idea of playing Xenos, but am increasingly annoyed with horde armies.
In trying to figure out which army to play in 7e, I am considering testing 40k in Roll20. Has anyone tried this? It seems well suited if you have some basic computer skills and can make up a transparent gif. Dice rolling is also simplified as you can roll #d6 against a target value and have the program count successes.
Here is an example I have been able to work through with Space Wolves:
In trying to figure out which army to play in 7e, I am considering testing 40k in Roll20. Has anyone tried this? It seems well suited if you have some basic computer skills and can make up a transparent gif. Dice rolling is also simplified as you can roll #d6 against a target value and have the program count successes.
Here is an example I have been able to work through with Space Wolves:
I've used it for Warmachine before and while it's slower then playing a normal game it was fine. I just didn't know what roll20 was but it sounded like you had to do some work yourself to play it there so I figured I would point out an alternative. I'm totally not going to show you where to get all the codex's for free though.....
wh40klib.ru - /
wh40klib.ru - /
Helldiver
Bronze Knight of the Realm
- 228
- 3
Got into theStar Wars X-Wingminiatures game. I got the starter after a friend swore up and down that it was good. Not a SW fan, but tried a few demos and got hooked. Now I own most all Rebel sku's minus the transport and E-Wings. My buddies got into Scum and Imperial respectively and we've been throwing down at our local Hobbytown on Friday nights.
Seems like it has a huge following with 12+ regulars always showing up to throw down. The dude that organizes it evidently won Regionals and went on to nationals (placed last). Not a fan of the whole tournament/league play thing. Already painted up some asteroids and a death star trench run terrain.
Anyhow, anyone else into this? Opinions? Thoughts?
Don't bother with the Star Trek one, rumor is that it sucks balls.
Seems like it has a huge following with 12+ regulars always showing up to throw down. The dude that organizes it evidently won Regionals and went on to nationals (placed last). Not a fan of the whole tournament/league play thing. Already painted up some asteroids and a death star trench run terrain.
Anyhow, anyone else into this? Opinions? Thoughts?
Don't bother with the Star Trek one, rumor is that it sucks balls.
X-Wing is cool, my locals recently got in to Armada and think it's the better game. It does take longer to play and a larger play area which are downsides.
For just the XWing system I've heard that the D&D Attack Wing is actually the best of the three but never played it.
For just the XWing system I've heard that the D&D Attack Wing is actually the best of the three but never played it.
Helldiver
Bronze Knight of the Realm
- 228
- 3
WIP; Designed so that bases won't have issues with the crevices. It's a lot further along now, and should be finished painting today.
Sticking with X-Wing. Buddy got Armada, I just wasn't that into it. It's a very good game though, and aside from the starter, I don't know how much more he or any of us will get into it. Absolutely no desire for flying dragons and shit. I'm sure it's good, but nobody out here playing or carrying it aside from the starter.
At least with X-Wing, the one thing I'm not liking about these games is unlike atrueminis game, this all feels like building a Magic deck. If you don't build right, you'll get completely stomped without question (such as a front loaded Tie Phantom).
Sticking with X-Wing. Buddy got Armada, I just wasn't that into it. It's a very good game though, and aside from the starter, I don't know how much more he or any of us will get into it. Absolutely no desire for flying dragons and shit. I'm sure it's good, but nobody out here playing or carrying it aside from the starter.
At least with X-Wing, the one thing I'm not liking about these games is unlike atrueminis game, this all feels like building a Magic deck. If you don't build right, you'll get completely stomped without question (such as a front loaded Tie Phantom).
Helldiver
Bronze Knight of the Realm
- 228
- 3
Yup:
Step 1: Styrofoam Insulation and foamcore for the various shapes. I used online pictures to have a rough idea of how the whole thing went.
Using the try square, I cut the Styrofoam with the foam cutter into the size I want. The foam cutter from woodland scenics comes equipped with a leveling plane making straight cuts easier. In the above picture you can see how I cut the Styrofoam to the desired lengths and then stacked them.
You will need a surgically sharp xacto blade to cut the foamcore into the various shapes. Dull blades will make a mess.
Step 2: Additional subdivisions in the crevices to avoid too much base tipping. Added cardstock details as well.
Step 3: Added foamcore sides to give it a clean look. The whole thing was glued together with Elmers Multi-purpose glue all.
Materials used:
2x Elmers Multi-purpose glue all.
4x Insulation Styrofoam 1.5" x 2' x 4'
6x Elmers Foamcore (white, although I recommend black since it makes priming so much faster and easier).
Tools:
Xacto Knife (hobby knife)
Woodland Scenics Foam cutter machine
Try Square
Paints: (all mixed at Home Depot, I got the 7.5oz samplers which are like $2.99 each!). I used indoor Behr paint, it's resilient, colorfast, and if someone spills a drink you can easily wash it off.
-Black
-White
-Codex Grey (for a 4' x 4' table, for a 3' x 6' table you may need two)
-Celestra Grey
For the Codex Grey and Celestra grey you will have to paint 1" inch chips to make it easier for them to color match.
I painted the sides with Black and then I primed the top playing surface Codex Grey. This was followed by a Celestra Grey drybrush and ended with the white final super highlight using the white.
Drybrush work looks a lot better then my camera picked up.
Step 1: Styrofoam Insulation and foamcore for the various shapes. I used online pictures to have a rough idea of how the whole thing went.
Using the try square, I cut the Styrofoam with the foam cutter into the size I want. The foam cutter from woodland scenics comes equipped with a leveling plane making straight cuts easier. In the above picture you can see how I cut the Styrofoam to the desired lengths and then stacked them.
You will need a surgically sharp xacto blade to cut the foamcore into the various shapes. Dull blades will make a mess.
Step 2: Additional subdivisions in the crevices to avoid too much base tipping. Added cardstock details as well.
Step 3: Added foamcore sides to give it a clean look. The whole thing was glued together with Elmers Multi-purpose glue all.
Materials used:
2x Elmers Multi-purpose glue all.
4x Insulation Styrofoam 1.5" x 2' x 4'
6x Elmers Foamcore (white, although I recommend black since it makes priming so much faster and easier).
Tools:
Xacto Knife (hobby knife)
Woodland Scenics Foam cutter machine
Try Square
Paints: (all mixed at Home Depot, I got the 7.5oz samplers which are like $2.99 each!). I used indoor Behr paint, it's resilient, colorfast, and if someone spills a drink you can easily wash it off.
-Black
-White
-Codex Grey (for a 4' x 4' table, for a 3' x 6' table you may need two)
-Celestra Grey
For the Codex Grey and Celestra grey you will have to paint 1" inch chips to make it easier for them to color match.
I painted the sides with Black and then I primed the top playing surface Codex Grey. This was followed by a Celestra Grey drybrush and ended with the white final super highlight using the white.
Drybrush work looks a lot better then my camera picked up.
Helldiver
Bronze Knight of the Realm
- 228
- 3
Believe it or not the ships look really nice. I've repainted a few of them like my Tantive IV, Millenium Falcon, and YT-2400 (Dash Rendar's ship). Mostly redid the wash using Nuln Oil and a quick skull white drybrush. Aside from that the ships look perfect out of the box.
Ignore my photos, they don't do the models/board justice and the contrast is kind of bad in those images. I'll try and take better pictures tonight at our game (better lighting at our HobbyTownUSA)
BTW, we're playing Friday nights (7:00pm-1:00am) at HobbyTown Fresno, CA.
Ignore my photos, they don't do the models/board justice and the contrast is kind of bad in those images. I'll try and take better pictures tonight at our game (better lighting at our HobbyTownUSA)
BTW, we're playing Friday nights (7:00pm-1:00am) at HobbyTown Fresno, CA.
Helldiver
Bronze Knight of the Realm
- 228
- 3
They run 40K tournaments with pretty large turnouts (20+ people). Friday nights it's mostly 40k downstairs and X-Wing upstairs, with about 20-30 people showing up. We had 14-15 people show up for X-Wing alone. Plus all of the downstairs area was 40k plus a painting tutorial table.
Closer details:
Our actual game, 200pts of Imperial vs. 200pts of Rebel+Scum, it was 2 v 2. Imperials ended up winning, we just couldn't take out enough of their Ties even though Han Solo was shooting pretty hot (I was rebels).
The trench rules were simple:
If you finish a move that doesn't clear the trench, you stop at the very edge. If you're inside the trench and hit the walls, you automatically gain a stress token and roll a single attack die. Models inside the trench gain a single defense die when being attacked. Models outside the trench gain a single defense die when being attacks by models inside the trench.
Closer details:
Our actual game, 200pts of Imperial vs. 200pts of Rebel+Scum, it was 2 v 2. Imperials ended up winning, we just couldn't take out enough of their Ties even though Han Solo was shooting pretty hot (I was rebels).
The trench rules were simple:
If you finish a move that doesn't clear the trench, you stop at the very edge. If you're inside the trench and hit the walls, you automatically gain a stress token and roll a single attack die. Models inside the trench gain a single defense die when being attacked. Models outside the trench gain a single defense die when being attacks by models inside the trench.