Bicycling
- Thread starter latheboy
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Famm
Ahn'Qiraj Raider
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Its pretty easy once you learn how to do everything, the biggest hurdle in working on a bike is having the specific tools. If you don't mind spending a few more bucks and would rather save yourself the time and effort just find a shop and tell them you want to do a budget SS conversion on it.
Basic would be pull the cranks, remove whichever of the chainrings you don't want, pull the cassette off the rear hub, install spacers and a cog, throw a SS chain on there and you're done. Not sure how much at a shop, depending on parts I could see you getting away with $100 maybe. Worth an estimate.
If you are more inclined to do it yourself, first step is find out what the crankset is so you know what puller you need.
Famm
Ahn'Qiraj Raider
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Your feet barely reach the pedals with the seatpost that low? The frame's too big for you.
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I meant to say, when placing my feet on the ground, I'm on my toes. When I'm actually riding the bike, there is a little bit of a bend in my leg when it's fully in the down position while peddling. Ensuring your leg has a little bit of a bend when the peddle is in the down position was one of the metrics I was given when setting my bike up. Being able to touch the ground when sitting on the saddle is supposedly law here (Germany), which is why I brought that up.
ronne
Nǐ hǎo, yǒu jīn zi ma?
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So after reading a bunch about conversion etc I've decided the only way I'm gonna be able to do this is just replace the rear wheel (probably both). Correct me if I read this wrong, but it looks like I can just buy a new pair of wheels and a SS crankset and kind of bolt it all together? I know that's oversimplifying, but it sounds like a far easier process (and something I could probably do on my own) than trying to redish wheels and all that crazy stuff.
So something likethese wheelsand thiscranksetwould make the conversion process relatively painless from the looks of it?
So something likethese wheelsand thiscranksetwould make the conversion process relatively painless from the looks of it?
I picked up a couple of bikes this week. First is an inexpensive hybrid that I got for just doing paved roads and whatnot near my house. It's a Raleigh Misceo 1.0. Under $500 and I have no complaints with it. I slapped some lights/bags on it and have ridden it about 100 miles so far and I really like it. No suspension and mediocre components, but a really nice bike for what it is. Not the best pic, but here it is on the back of my ridiculous redneck project truck.
I needed a trail bike too, so I picked this guy up today - a Cannondale Scalpel 29'er. I did 20 miles on the Raleigh this morning so my legs are junk, but I did take it out for a few quick miles when I got it home and the thing is ridiculous. Nicest bike I've ever owned, and my first one with a lockout on it. Can't wait to get it out on the trails tomorrow morning and really beat the hell out of myself on it, haha.
I needed a trail bike too, so I picked this guy up today - a Cannondale Scalpel 29'er. I did 20 miles on the Raleigh this morning so my legs are junk, but I did take it out for a few quick miles when I got it home and the thing is ridiculous. Nicest bike I've ever owned, and my first one with a lockout on it. Can't wait to get it out on the trails tomorrow morning and really beat the hell out of myself on it, haha.
Famm
Ahn'Qiraj Raider
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I've only converted mountain bikes, but we generally use spacer rings on cassette hub bodies to hold a single speed cog in place. I prefer just doing a wheel with a single speed specific hub, but I've done the conversion with spacers. Not really sure if SS road/fixie people do the spacer thing or not, or if most people prefer an actual SS wheelset.
Here's the other thing though, how do you intend to tension the chain? While its possible to find a magic gear, I think most fixie specific frames are going to have horizontal drop out forks in back with bolt on hubs in order to move the position of the rear hub to tension the chain. I guess its also possible to hit a "magic gear ratio" that won't need any tensioning, just cut the chain and you're done, but that's not really considered to be as easily said as done most of the time. At least in mountain bikes.
Ham is really the guy to ask on this board, maybe PM him and alert him to the thread.
Or just ride the damn thing as is man, there's nothing wrong with having gears. Even if you don't really "need" them.
ham
Lord Nagafen Raider
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started racing this season. my next one is a 50 mile/5000 ft road race in chappell hill. trying to drop another 10lbs by then. My road bike is my go-to bike now, I still ride brakeless on my daily bike, but I'm currently looking at a touring bike for a tour I want to do in march, and it'll be an awesome daily as well (surly long haul trucker or all city space horse).
I have a SSCX bike now too, I've only ridden the trails a few times but they were MTB trails and was always given props for being out there. I'm excited to try out CX racing, it seems way less serious and much more good vibes.
I have a SSCX bike now too, I've only ridden the trails a few times but they were MTB trails and was always given props for being out there. I'm excited to try out CX racing, it seems way less serious and much more good vibes.
Famm
Ahn'Qiraj Raider
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I actually took the clips off. I was huge into BMX/Freestyle as a kid, and despite trying about 9 different flavors of clip-ins and what not on previous bikes, I just can't get used to them. I like plain old pedals, and all the wonderful scars they leave on your shins after a season. That Cannondale is 500% more bike than I'll actually ever need, but you know what they say about buy nice or buy twice.
Famm
Ahn'Qiraj Raider
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Well, sucks for you man 29'ers are yesterday's news. You're about to be left behind by the 650b revolution!!!!!
*evil cackle*
Fifey
Trakanon Raider
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Your BB and Crankset go together, as in if you have a square taper 107 BB, then you need a matching crankset. Is your BB going to match that crankset? Just use the crankset that's on your bike, it's not the cottered kind so you atleast don't have garbage.
A new wheel is ideal for the rear but before you order, check your spacing on your rear chainstays and see if you are 120, 126 or 130mm because that decides what you need/spacers.
I still say take it to your LBS and just give the mechanic like five or ten bucks to give you advice on what to do, he will be stoked and it won't be internet advice.
He's fine on the dropouts, they are the horizontal drop outs so he will have enough space to move the wheel back to tighten the chain. Not as good as a true track dropout but thousands of conversions have happened on those dropouts.
Caved in and bought a road bike today too. Felt Z5, thing weighs just over 19lbs. (wtf) Garbage pedals right now, but the shop didn't have anything in stock that I liked/that wasn't marked up 50% higher than Amazon. These skinny ass tires are going to take some getting used to.
25c on there right now, but they're coming off. I'm sure the ones on there are great for speed, but I'm going wider with at least some semblance of tread ASAP.
Leadsalad
Cis-XYite-Nationalist
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