I thought about it, but I've tested my current battery with a voltmeter directly to the terminals, and also the one you plug into cigarette lighter and the battery voltage is fine in both cases.
The other part about the power/lock window issues is that I discovered that issue the day after I drove it off the lot 2.5 years ago. And the battery is still the battery from when I bought it. So maybe it is the battery but I would think that the dealership would have caught the issue and tried something as simple as a battery swap to see if it fixes the issue. Im still kinda pissed they sold me the car this way, but "all sales are final, you're buying it as-is"
The other fix I heard about is to disconnect the battery from the car for a few minutes to "reset it". I tried that last month and it didnt do shit.
That's not exactly how to properly test a battery/alternator. That battery definitely wasn't brand new when you bought the car used. Batteries typically last 5 or so years, and your car was nearly 10 years old when you bought it.
Dealership not replacing an old battery when flipping a car is par for the course.
Battery/amp have to be load tested to see most problems, volt-meter won't show much unless something is completely dead. Then you'd have the car not starting or the alternator warning light on.
Battery/amp have to be load tested to see most problems, volt-meter won't show much unless something is completely dead. Then you'd have the car not starting or the alternator warning light on.
Take it out and take it to Autozone, O'reillys, or where ever you are going to buy a battery, to have it tested first. Almost all of them have load testers to test them. I would hope it fails, as it will be the easiest and cheapest fix. Ten years is pushing it for the life a battery, regardless, so even if it passes, it probably doesn't have too much time left, but a pass may indicate that it's not the battery causing problems.
Not all batteries are made the same, so might want to do some research for what is good and what is shit atm. Costco used to have great batteries, then the brand they used got sold and quality went down. Maybe they are back up to par. Last time mine went out, I ended up buying a closed cell battery from Sam's Club (I think it was) for less than the "official" battery for my car, by doing a bit of reading on my model's enthusiast forums.
Next, if the battery passed, you will need to watch that youtube video on how to access the actuators. Then you get the voltmeter and figure out how to correctly test the wires at the plug, to see if the signal is getting sent. That should tell you if the actuators are bad, or if it is an electrical gremlin. If it's a gremlin, well, good luck...
As for the screen, if you can do electrical soldering, and you are going to have to replace it anyway, you can try to replace just the screen. I saw builds of people making their own head unit (10 or so years ago), for fairly cheep. The double DIN screens were low cost, but it has been so long I don't even remember where those threads were (DYI Mobile Audio maybe).
From the following pictures, it looks like the head unit can be disassembled/worked on outside of the car and hopefully without specialty equipment, ymmv though. Standard electrical precautions apply as it might have capacitors that take time to discharge. If you have an old power supply for a computer laying around, you can convert it to power a vehicle's head unit, so you can bench test it. There are videos/write ups on how to do it around Youtube/internet.
A lot of times window/lock problems are in the cable where it flexes when you open and close the doors. It can also just be dust or dirt causing an intermittent connection. You are correct that it's hell trying to get a mechanic to fix that shit. The rear passenger door on my pickup doesn't unlock and I took it to a mechanic who is a friend and of course once he took the door apart it worked every time. He cleaned the contacts and it worked for a couple of months and then quit working again. Haven't done anything with it since.
With regard to the head unit, www.crutchfield.com is still a thing and they will still sell you a head unit that fits your exact car and give you all the wiring harnesses required plus send you step by step instructions specific to your car. It's pretty nice and I've replaced several radios on newer cars with pretty good luck. Sometimes the aftermarket shit is actually better too because it uses android auto or apple carplay instead of whatever janky proprietary shit the car company came up with. They can make them work with steering wheel controls and backup cameras and everything. Does require a little soldering sometimes.
Your door lock actuator problem sounds more like an electrical issue to me - at least that's where I'd start at least. Does it behave any better when the engine is running? What about different inputs to the system - keyfob lock unlock/unlock vs driver door vs passenger door. I'd have to see electrically how it's all wired together to determine where to start checking first, but it sounds to me like I'd probably look for a common grounding point, harness inline connector, or the body control module. All that said, I'd echo getting the battery looked at first since it'll be a lot lower effort.
Head unit can be pretty tricky. I'd actually agree with looking into an aftermarket replacement. Android Auto / CarPlay are a million times better than any dogshit OEM solution.
One thing I find extremely useful is BlueDriver. It's a bluetooth dongle you plug into your OBD connector that communicates with a phone app like a lot of those ELM327 clones, but it supports all modules for a good number of the cars out there rather than just the powertrain portion (double check your car is on their list before buying obviously). It usually retails for around $100, but will typically dip into the 70s for typical sales - prime day, cyber Monday, etc. It could potentially provide you some insight on both of these problems based on the DTCs that come back. It's paid for itself in my case many times over. I recently had the ABS light come on in my truck - based on the code, I could check the specific wheel speed sensor, which just got some water in the pigtail connector going through a puddle.
Your door lock actuator problem sounds more like an electrical issue to me - at least that's where I'd start at least. Does it behave any better when the engine is running? What about different inputs to the system - keyfob lock unlock/unlock vs driver door vs passenger door. I'd have to see electrically how it's all wired together to determine where to start checking first, but it sounds to me like I'd probably look for a common grounding point, harness inline connector, or the body control module. All that said, I'd echo getting the battery looked at first since it'll be a lot lower effort.
Head unit can be pretty tricky. I'd actually agree with looking into an aftermarket replacement. Android Auto / CarPlay are a million times better than any dogshit OEM solution.
One thing I find extremely useful is BlueDriver. It's a bluetooth dongle you plug into your OBD connector that communicates with a phone app like a lot of those ELM327 clones, but it supports all modules for a good number of the cars out there rather than just the powertrain portion (double check your car is on their list before buying obviously). It usually retails for around $100, but will typically dip into the 70s for typical sales - prime day, cyber Monday, etc. It could potentially provide you some insight on both of these problems based on the DTCs that come back. It's paid for itself in my case many times over. I recently had the ABS light come on in my truck - based on the code, I could check the specific wheel speed sensor, which just got some water in the pigtail connector going through a puddle.
Had the battery tested this morning, no problems with the battery. The OBD diagnostic tool is a great idea, and I completely forgot that I actually bought one 3 years ago. Spent an hour looking for it this morning and couldnt find it, so now I'm buttmad about that too. Wonder if I forgot it in California when I moved.
Had the battery tested this morning, no problems with the battery. The OBD diagnostic tool is a great idea, and I completely forgot that I actually bought one 3 years ago. Spent an hour looking for it this morning and couldnt find it, so now I'm buttmad about that too. Wonder if I forgot it in California when I moved.
Well, that sucks that it wasn't something simple like the battery. I wonder if it was into some water damage before you bought it, as it seems like such an electrical problem shouldn't just pop up. Not everything shows up on VIN report, and not all VIN reports find the same things.
Have you tried to re-seat your fuses, or just replace the ones that are associated with the locks? It may be a long shot, but worth a try. You may have fuses under your dash and under your hood that are applicable.
Is it throwing codes? The autoparts stores will read your codes for you too. I'm not familiar with that Bluedriver, but it looks nice. You can also get a cheep bluetooth dongle that will plug into OBD2 and send the codes to the Torque App.
Well, that sucks that it wasn't something simple like the battery. I wonder if it was into some water damage before you bought it, as it seems like such an electrical problem shouldn't just pop up. Not everything shows up on VIN report, and not all VIN reports find the same things.
Have you tried to re-seat your fuses, or just replace the ones that are associated with the locks? It may be a long shot, but worth a try. You may have fuses under your dash and under your hood that are applicable.
Is it throwing codes? The autoparts stores will read your codes for you too. I'm not familiar with that Bluedriver, but it looks nice. You can also get a cheep bluetooth dongle that will plug into OBD2 and send the codes to the Torque App.
I reordered the same OBD2 reader that I cant find anymore. It worked great on my previous car which also had a ton of electric problems. Once I get it, I'll pull the codes and see what it says.
BTW, when I pulled the battery this morning, I had a strong sense of deja vu when I was loosening the bolts and the grip plate. I felt like I did this before in that car. The battery had a sticker on the side that said 12/20 which is the manufacturing date Im guessing, and that would be 6 months after I bought the car, so I must have changed the battery already not even 2 years ago and forgot about it.
I checked out where my fuses are as well, I got a big box of fuses under the dash and another big box of fuses under the hood by the battery. There's a ton of them, nothing is labeled so I'd have to find a fuse diagram and it looks like a pain in the ass, so Ill wait for the OBD readerto get here, check the codes and see if I need to start checking fuses too.
i saw a video where a dude had to grind down something in the acuator b/c it wasn't "catching" cuz the cable specs were lax, so it might not be an electrical issue, just a quality control issue for hyundai
I reordered the same OBD2 reader that I cant find anymore. It worked great on my previous car which also had a ton of electric problems. Once I get it, I'll pull the codes and see what it says.
BTW, when I pulled the battery this morning, I had a strong sense of deja vu when I was loosening the bolts and the grip plate. I felt like I did this before in that car. The battery had a sticker on the side that said 12/20 which is the manufacturing date Im guessing, and that would be 6 months after I bought the car, so I must have changed the battery already not even 2 years ago and forgot about it.
I checked out where my fuses are as well, I got a big box of fuses under the dash and another big box of fuses under the hood by the battery. There's a ton of them, nothing is labeled so I'd have to find a fuse diagram and it looks like a pain in the ass, so Ill wait for the OBD readerto get here, check the codes and see if I need to start checking fuses too.
Did anyone mention it could be a power door lock relay?
"One of the first symptoms of a possible problem with the door lock relay are door locks that function intermittently. If the door lock relay has any internal or wiring issues, it can cause the door locks to function intermittently. The door locks may function correctly one moment, and in the next will cease to operate"
Did anyone mention it could be a power door lock relay?
"One of the first symptoms of a possible problem with the door lock relay are door locks that function intermittently. If the door lock relay has any internal or wiring issues, it can cause the door locks to function intermittently. The door locks may function correctly one moment, and in the next will cease to operate"
That sounds exactly like my problem. Will have to order one and replace one door to see if it solves it, but then the windows have problems too.
For example, the rear passenger window can be always be lowered from the driver's controls but never raised. You can only raise it from the rear passenger door.
That sounds exactly like my problem. Will have to order one and replace one door to see if it solves it, but then the windows have problems too.
For example, the rear passenger window can be always be lowered from the driver's controls but never raised. You can only raise it from the rear passenger door.
Depending on the vehicle, windows can have a control command that needs reset. For example, in my car the window programming can get hosed up by a random combo of button presses and the windows wont follow the buttons correctly. Your hold down for 5 seconds and then up for 5 seconds and it reprograms the window button control back to default settings. I have no idea if your vehicle has this, but it can't hurt to look it up.
My sister gave me a couple of pics she had of new cars I had bought back 30+ years ago. I never took any pictures. I know how much I paid for each and used my bonus at the time and paid cash for each. Ran the numbers through an inflation calculator. That was depressing. They weren't super fancy, but new vehicles with safety equipment of the day (air bags etc...) AC, radio etc... The number that came up you couldn't buy a used car for that now that is a true POS.
My sister gave me a couple of pics she had of new cars I had bought back 30+ years ago. I never took any pictures. I know how much I paid for each and used my bonus at the time and paid cash for each. Ran the numbers through an inflation calculator. That was depressing. They weren't super fancy, but new vehicles with safety equipment of the day (air bags etc...) AC, radio etc... The number that came up you couldn't buy a used car for that now that is a true POS.
I drove a truck in high school and kept it for a long time that didn't have belts. Just was meaning it they came with airbags. Did not have but can remember the abortion of cars in the 80s the auto buckled your selt belt when you got in, that and were limited to the fed speed limit of 55.
People nowdays would have a cow, ridig in a vehicle with the gas tank inside the cab immediately behind the seat. While smoking.
You guys have a few *cough* years on me, but I definitely remember those seatbelts. Also, we had a ford conversion van, so on family trips all the kids would sleep in the laid down back seats with blankets all over.
I would have been no older than 7 and siblings down to 3, though I’m pretty sure they were still in car seats.
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