Car ?'s
- Thread starter BeardedWonder
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Haus
I am Big Balls!
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Pretty much, and they're talking about discontinuing the Escape in the next year or two and just forgetting about the compact SUV space. (Edge will be their smallest SUV at that point)
Burns
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It seems the c6 Zo6 LS7 engine has head and rod problems, so in my opinion the best c6 would be a 2008+ bone stock Grand Sport with low mileage. It might be a great option, if the right deal comes along.
I also wouldn't actually buy a car modified by another person but a lot of people are fine with it, especially racers that are willing to replace shit as it breaks with upgrades. On the other hand I am perfectly fine with buying a used bone stock car with less than 50k miles from an independent seller. It's all about pictures.
Dealers suck and they will make sure it's in good enough order that it will last some stupid 3 to 6 month "warranty." I've known car dealers and I used to have access to Manheim; dealers push cars all around the country using only detailed pictures and online auctions. They are the exact same cars that you see from private sellers, only with a 20%+ markup. They spend as little time on them as humanly possible not to come back in whatever time they claim to offer a "warranty." There is a higher chance of getting a northern salt driven car when buying from a dealer too, no matter what part of the country you actually buy the car in.
Post on reddit mentioning the C6 LS7 engine issues (if I was thinking of buying one, I would verify on corvette forums):
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Burren
Ahn'Qiraj Raider
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LS7 rods are fine and will take hundreds of HP over stock. The valves were bad but that’s an easy and cheap fix. Only other weak points on that car are cheap interior materials and seats.
Burns
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Did you read the reddit post? It mentions the valve stems but says the engine has a geometry issue that causes damage to the heads and rods, which crop up at high mileage and/or after a lot of hard driving. Replacing the stock with the aftermarket parts (advertised as a fix) just "resets the clock to 0" but people have had the same issue with the "fixed" aftermarket parts.
It would be a issue to investigate further, if a person was in the market for a high mileage toy, in order to get the price where you want it.
Burren
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No, I don’t read Reddit. I’ve owned two LS7 cars since 2009 and both were heavily modified and driven hard. I’ve been in the game for a long ass time and never seen one with damaged rods. Neither skipped a beat . As soon as I got each car the heads were replaced and unless you run boost (which the LS7 is NOT made for) it will be fine NA.
Cad
scientia potentia est
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C6 Z06's are some of the most common and capable track cars out there. I would go to track days and half the cars in the advanced groups would all be C6 Z06's. They're very reliable and fast cars that are fun to drive on track.
Burns
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I clipped it and attached it to my post, you didn't need to go to reddit. As in, you didn't even read my post before replying.
I know Zo6s are super common and saying you replaced the heads as soon as you got the cars just reinforces the possibility that they might be a problem that would possibly cost a new owner a repair bill.
Again, if it is a common report of failure and enough people have had the issue that multiple companies are offering a "fix" for it, it should certainly be taken into account if you were going to purchase one. The reddit post that I screenshotted and ATTACHED TO MY POST above is just a start. The last post clearly states to go read about it on Corvette Forums, where I would guess it's well documented. I don't give enough of a fuck to go read through a bunch of post on a car I don't own, and never plan to.
Manufacturing defects don't usually show up on every single car, and I doubt
Cad
is out there taking a survey of what work has been done on each car.
Haus
I am Big Balls!
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OK, so I have an odd situation happening....
Back passenger tire on my car. Showing 30 psi, all the rest are between 33-36 (where they should be). I top the rear passenger back up to 36. Over the next 72 hours I see is slowly going back down. I figure I have a leak, start planning time to go in and have the tire guys check it out. It goes back down to 29-30. Then stops going down.
I wait a couple weeks, figuring the second I see it hit 26psi and the light goes yellow I take it in. Nope, still at 29-30 (depending on temp outside it seems, spring in Texas and all).
So I'm left wondering what kind of air leak in a tire let's it go down to a certain level but then stop leaking???
Back passenger tire on my car. Showing 30 psi, all the rest are between 33-36 (where they should be). I top the rear passenger back up to 36. Over the next 72 hours I see is slowly going back down. I figure I have a leak, start planning time to go in and have the tire guys check it out. It goes back down to 29-30. Then stops going down.
I wait a couple weeks, figuring the second I see it hit 26psi and the light goes yellow I take it in. Nope, still at 29-30 (depending on temp outside it seems, spring in Texas and all).
So I'm left wondering what kind of air leak in a tire let's it go down to a certain level but then stop leaking???
Bald Brah
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Maybe a small screw that is tight enough to hold 30psi? Squirt some dish liquid on the tire.
