Car ?'s

Lanx

Lanx

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Control said:
So I've been trying to track down a parasitic draw. Tracked current draw and pulled fuses to narrow it down then tried to unhook everything along the way. I didn't find an obvious source, but it looked like I had fixed the problem after tinkering/cleaning/leaving off a few things. Checked it daily for a few days to make sure it was gone (letting it sit for an hour or so to make sure all the modules had shut down), but no, it's back a couple of weeks later. So I guess it's some combination of conditions that causes a module to get stuck on? All the googles I see stop at "unplug things one at a time til it works", and I'm not enjoying the thought of doing that again trying to dig through combinations or speculatively replacing everything. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
try this way w/ the amp clamp instead of pulling every fuse.

 
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Kobayashi

Kobayashi

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Control said:
So I've been trying to track down a parasitic draw. Tracked current draw and pulled fuses to narrow it down then tried to unhook everything along the way. I didn't find an obvious source, but it looked like I had fixed the problem after tinkering/cleaning/leaving off a few things. Checked it daily for a few days to make sure it was gone (letting it sit for an hour or so to make sure all the modules had shut down), but no, it's back a couple of weeks later. So I guess it's some combination of conditions that causes a module to get stuck on? All the googles I see stop at "unplug things one at a time til it works", and I'm not enjoying the thought of doing that again trying to dig through combinations or speculatively replacing everything. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
I have something similar to this to check blade style fuses:

www.walmart.com

Parasitic Draw Fuse Tester Automotive, Car Power Fuse Monitor Accessories, Mini Maxi & ATC Fuses Live Current, Electric Test Pen Light Electrical Diagnostic Tool Short Circuit Finder - Walmart.com

Buy Parasitic Draw Fuse Tester Automotive, Car Power Fuse Monitor Accessories, Mini Maxi & ATC Fuses Live Current, Electric Test Pen Light Electrical Diagnostic Tool Short Circuit Finder at Walmart.com
www.walmart.com

It measures the voltage drop across the fuse and treats it like a shunt. It's not super accurate at the low mA range, but I doubt it's that low if you're noticing it. Doesn't work if the problem is on a circuit only fed by a fuseable link or anything that doesn't have test ports at the top. Don't forget to check any fuses on modules like the body control module.
 
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Punko

Punko

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still very happy with the M440i

piano gloss trim along the windows started to get spots, apparently its not uncommon, but was replaced free of cost even though the car is approaching 4 years

doing 250km/h on the autobahn is no problem, looking to have limiter removed because there is at least 270 in the car

would also love an option where the exhaust valves are open 100% of the time

luxury problems eh
 
Dandai

Dandai

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I had to replace one of my radiator fans in my 2006 Honda ridgeline as the fan and the motor separated in a seemingly unrepairable way.

Anyway, the connectors don’t match between the male end that’s coming from the engine and the female end that’s on the fan. The replacement fan is otherwise seemingly identical.

This may be a silly question, but is the solution to my problem as simple as cutting off the connectors from the new fan and the old fan and using some electrician something something to splice/make sure the wires are solidly connected?

I guess my concern is polarity and not letting the smoke out of the new fan’s motor. I think it was $150 so it seemed silly to not at least ask for a co-sign before I get experimental.

Thanks fellas.
 
Burns

Burns

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Dandai said:
I had to replace one of my radiator fans in my 2006 Honda ridgeline as the fan and the motor separated in a seemingly unrepairable way.

Anyway, the connectors don’t match between the male end that’s coming from the engine and the female end that’s on the fan. The replacement fan is otherwise seemingly identical.

This may be a silly question, but is the solution to my problem as simple as cutting off the connectors from the new fan and the old fan and using some electrician something something to splice/make sure the wires are solidly connected?

I guess my concern is polarity and not letting the smoke out of the new fan’s motor. I think it was $150 so it seemed silly to not at least ask for a co-sign before I get experimental.

Thanks fellas.
Click to expand...
There might be an adapter that fits it too, but IDing the names of each plug type might take a bit of research.

Otherwise I would assume you could wire up a compatible plug onto the fan fairly easily. I can't remember who the electrician is on the board, but they could probably tell you more on how to confirm the polarity of the fan if the wires don't make it obvious (different countries use different wire colors too).

Mouser has a huge selection and decent prices if you need a place to start for the connector:
https://www.mouser.com

No idea where to try to look for an adapter ...maybe McMaster Carr(?):
www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com
 
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BrutulTM

BrutulTM

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Yeah if it's just two wires then you just have to figure out what is positive and negative on both the fan and the harness and make sure you connect positive to positive and negative to negative. Even in you don't figure it out you have a 50/50 shot.
 
Lambourne

Lambourne

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If it has more than 2 wires, don't bother, go exchange it for the correct one. Modern car fans are usually variable speed and often have a resistor bank or PWM electronics in them and hooking it up wrong will just short it out and destroy it.
 
Kobayashi

Kobayashi

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Dandai said:
I had to replace one of my radiator fans in my 2006 Honda ridgeline as the fan and the motor separated in a seemingly unrepairable way.

Anyway, the connectors don’t match between the male end that’s coming from the engine and the female end that’s on the fan. The replacement fan is otherwise seemingly identical.

This may be a silly question, but is the solution to my problem as simple as cutting off the connectors from the new fan and the old fan and using some electrician something something to splice/make sure the wires are solidly connected?

I guess my concern is polarity and not letting the smoke out of the new fan’s motor. I think it was $150 so it seemed silly to not at least ask for a co-sign before I get experimental.

Thanks fellas.
Click to expand...
If the connector looks similar, but is a different color, it could be that the pins are the same and you could de-pin the connector housings and swap them. There's usually a video out there for de-pinning just about any connector.
 
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