I know the feels man. When my middle mouse button goes out, its means time for a new one.My middle mouse button stopped working tonight, with how I usually browse the web opening and closing so many tabs it's about as disruptive as the cable modem going out.
Not worth fixing compared to how cheap new monitors are, IMO.I have a Samsung syncmaster 2494 that is starting to have back light issues. It will go off, if it turn the monitor off and back on it works for a few seconds then goes out again. Do I have any options of fixing this issue? or should I just look for a new monitor.
Kind of agree with Flipmode, but, you might want to open it up, and look for bad capacitors. If you're remotely handy with a soldering iron, you can possibly fix it for a few bucks, and some time. Plus the bonus of learning something new.I have a Samsung syncmaster 2494 that is starting to have back light issues. It will go off, if it turn the monitor off and back on it works for a few seconds then goes out again. Do I have any options of fixing this issue? or should I just look for a new monitor.
I spread it myself to make sure I got full coverage. Just made sure it was a nice thin layer. Wasn't hard at all and it was my first time doing it.What kinda spread should I do on the cpu with arctic silver 5? I watched a bunch of videos and saw the X, the pea in the middle, and light spread on whole chip. I have the i7-4930k and want to OC. Just looking to for your opinions since I trust everyone in this thread.
Not worth it. P55 platforms had issues. I never once had one that didn't have random unexplained lockups, but maybe that was because I had a bunch of Gigabyte boards.So I'm in the market to build a second computer for the wife using some old parts I already have and I go looking to buy the same motherboard I already have. EVGA P55 SLI E655. I paid $135 or so for it AGES ago on some special at Frys. I figure it should be going for $50-70 bucks on Amazon used right?
WRONG.
$450 Used on Amazon
Amazon.com: EVGA LGA1156/Intel P55/DDR3/PhysX GbE/ATX Motherboard 132-LF-E655-KR (P55): Electronics
$350 used on Ebay
EVGA P55 SLI 132 LF E655 KR LGA1156 Intel P55 ATX Intel Motherboard | eBay
WTF.
I have a P55 UDR3 something something Gigabyte. Core i5 750. Only problem I've had with it is that it would randomly shit its BIOS once a year. Their last BIOS update fixed that. It's been working well for a few years now as HTPC.Not worth it. P55 platforms had issues. I never once had one that didn't have random unexplained lockups, but maybe that was because I had a bunch of Gigabyte boards.
Exposed direct contact heatpipes need some extra care beyond a blob alone.blob is the way to go. It's the only way to ensure even coverage. You can not manually spread the stuff and get an even spread, it just isn't possible without complex machinery, it can't be done with just your hand/finger anywhere near as effectively as just letting pressure naturally spread a blob.
Sure, your processor may be fine either way, but why choose the method that is assuredly less efficient if you don't have to? Blob method is more reliable, more consistent, and easier to boot. It's win/win.
Well sure, but your average, square-plate heat sink making a connection to your CPU can be covered nicely and evenly via a centered blob. If you heat sink surface isn't a flat square, then yea, you're going to have to use a different method.Exposed direct contact heatpipes need some extra care beyond a blob alone.
]Well built my computer and it's running awesome so far. Thanks for all the help guys. It's been running at 30c all day but I haven't pushed it yet. I can't wait to OC this thing. I have one problem though. Windows isn't recognizing my second hard drive and I don't know how to get it to find it. My first drive is an SSD and it's running perfect but my second hard drive is a 2tb western digital HDD and that's the one not showing up. Any help would be appreciated.