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a_skeleton_05

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Trying to understand, why do you want to move the desk?

Do you have some BIG screen TV you roll into place behind the desk or something?

View attachment 178155

EDITING...posted before I was ready to post...

TV is mounted to the wall. Idea is to have the desk against the wall below it while watching TV or playing on a console, and pulling the desk out by ~30 inches when using the PC with the TV as a monitor (need the viewing distance increased for obvious reasons)

desk.JPG
 

GuardianX

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Ahhh forgot the picture wasn't of your setup but was of someone elses thing...that confused me a ton LOL.

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Yeah wheels will work fine, but will 100% add height to your desk and also a bit of "Wobbleyness"

8 thicker bolts for certain on the top.

4 rigid wheels since you are just moving forward and back -- 4 rigid wheels would make moving the desk in ANY other direction a nightmare.

If you are fine with that then...4 rigid wheels. Depending on the material you could just bolt them inside the drawer base.

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You'll be able to roll the desk forward and back from the wall relatively easily but over time you will destroy the carpet in there, it will pile on each side of the wheels and behind and in front of the desk.
 

a_skeleton_05

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Ahhh forgot the picture wasn't of your setup but was of someone elses thing...that confused me a ton LOL.

---

Yeah wheels will work fine, but will 100% add height to your desk and also a bit of "Wobbleyness"

8 thicker bolts for certain on the top.

4 rigid wheels since you are just moving forward and back -- 4 rigid wheels would make moving the desk in ANY other direction a nightmare.

If you are fine with that then...4 rigid wheels. Depending on the material you could just bolt them inside the drawer base.

---

You'll be able to roll the desk forward and back from the wall relatively easily but over time you will destroy the carpet in there, it will pile on each side of the wheels and behind and in front of the desk.

Wheels might be doable if I sacrifice the ability to open the bottom drawers. Anything protruding from the bottom at all would block them from moving at all.

Any opinion on just lining the entire bottom with some super/magic sliders like:
 

Dandai

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It's roughly 30 inches that it needs to be pulled out.



It wouldn't be possible to mount casters large enough to handle the weight as the thickness of the bottom is maybe half an inch. The drawer units along are 60lb each, with the top being 46lb, and then there's the actual drawer contents as well. Probably ~210lbs altogether.

Also, a mat isn't really an option as it would be sticking out when it's pushed back, which would negate trying to keep the space clear when pushed back.

A desk like you're using is my second option, with it being moved into position when needed, but I would much prefer to just modify what I already have rather than buying a whole new desk.
210 lbs is really light tbh. Even at 2 casters on each side you’d have 500 lbs of support with 4 of those^ (and for about $25 in hardware). A bigger challenge will be shoring up the rest of the desk to make sure it doesn’t threaten to come apart at the seams every time you move it. That’s easy enough with some braces and coarse thread screws though.

Don’t attach the casters through particle board. Probably best to run at least 1” thick wood parallel to the front/back of the desk under the bottom drawer (fasten to the desk with braces similar to the picture below) and attach the casters to the 1” thick wood. If you’re still worried about weight you could put 4 under each side (for a total of 8) but I think that’d be serious over kill. If you’re using 2 for each side, I wouldn’t put the casters on the ends of the desk as that will put more strain on them and possibly cause some bowing in the middle.

F0A88A43-37E3-4494-8952-627F0BF1689D.jpeg
 
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a_skeleton_05

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210 lbs is really light tbh. Even at 2 casters on each side you’d have 500 lbs of support with 4 of those^ (and for about $25 in hardware). A bigger challenge will be shoring up the rest of the desk to make sure it doesn’t threaten to come apart at the seams every time you move it. That’s easy enough with some braces and coarse thread screws though.

Don’t attach the casters through particle board. Probably best to run at least 1” thick wood parallel to the front/back of the desk under the bottom drawer (fasten to the desk with braces similar to the picture below) and attach the casters to the 1” thick wood. If you’re still worried about weight you could put 4 under each side (for a total of 8) but I think that’d be serious over kill. If you’re using 2 for each side, I wouldn’t put the casters on the ends of the desk as that will put more strain on them and possibly cause some bowing in the middle.

The weight concern was more about the casters digging into the carpet and making it hard to get out of the rut they would settle into, making me think of needing larger casters (which wouldn't fit into the board) but that was without noticing your suggestion of attaching them to some additional wood. It makes sense now. I'll add this method to the list of options. Thanks.
 

Dandai

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Well, my leaf rake technique to rake in the seed could use some tweaking :emoji_grimacing:

3CB28AF0-619E-4EF8-A27A-B99EC6FF58CE.jpeg


On the bright side, I’ve got several lovely dense patches. I’m not quite neurotic enough to pull plugs out of them, but if I have a bunch of bare spots this time next week I might consider it.
 
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Daezuel

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Dad is trying to convince me to remove popcorn ceilings, I've read its possible they have Asbestos in them if installed before 77?

We only have this next week. I removed the living room carpet and found hard wood floors underneath so I'll need to repair, sand, and refinish that area. We're planning on repainting 4 rooms right now.

He says we should have a professional do the taping/texturing (on the ceiling) or it'll look like shit. Wife is not thrilled with the idea of spending that much unplanned for money right now.

Thoughts? (do we really have to test for Asbestos? sounds like another $80 to get quick results and if you find it then what?)
 

Lanx

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Dad is trying to convince me to remove popcorn ceilings, I've read its possible they have Asbestos in them if installed before 77?

We only have this next week. I removed the living room carpet and found hard wood floors underneath so I'll need to repair, sand, and refinish that area. We're planning on repainting 4 rooms right now.

He says we should have a professional do the taping/texturing (on the ceiling) or it'll look like shit. Wife is not thrilled with the idea of spending that much unplanned for money right now.

Thoughts? (do we really have to test for Asbestos? sounds like another $80 to get quick results and if you find it then what?)
this guy makes it look easy

just wet it and go
tumblr_p5b4jdmyGQ1vwmi9zo2_400.gif
 

Daezuel

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Removal is easy yeah I've checked videos, the problem is if it has Asbestos in it. Generally people used that shit to cover flaws so they wouldn't have to finish the ceiling, so once you remove it you probably have to do the finishing work that was avoided in the first place. That's my main concern outside the Asbestos.

Can I rent some kind of sprayer to make the job easy?
 

Dandai

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Dad is trying to convince me to remove popcorn ceilings, I've read its possible they have Asbestos in them if installed before 77?

We only have this next week. I removed the living room carpet and found hard wood floors underneath so I'll need to repair, sand, and refinish that area. We're planning on repainting 4 rooms right now.

He says we should have a professional do the taping/texturing (on the ceiling) or it'll look like shit. Wife is not thrilled with the idea of spending that much unplanned for money right now.

Thoughts? (do we really have to test for Asbestos? sounds like another $80 to get quick results and if you find it then what?)
Yeah, I’ve heard they can have asbestos too. With popcorn ceilings, I’d absolutely do all of the precautionary steps to limit exposure since you’ll be chiseling and wearing it down to finer particles. Removing popcorn ceilings is a huuuuge pain the dick. I’ve never done it, but I’ve watched some guys do it on the internet and it looked extremely tedious and labor intensive.

If it were me, I’d tell dad that it’s a good idea and that I’m looking into the best way to do it and later say, regretfully, that we just didn’t have enough time to do it properly - but we’d still like to do it someday!
 

Daezuel

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Yeah, just if you're going to paint walls like we are and then move in doing the ceilings afterwards is going to be an even bigger pain in the dick, else I wouldn't be considering it at all.
 

Lanx

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Yeah, just if you're going to paint walls like we are and then move in doing the ceilings afterwards is going to be an even bigger pain in the dick, else I wouldn't be considering it at all.
i mean...

why take the chance? asbestos is pre-80's and you said your house is that old, if you don't touch it, it ain't gonna do shit to affect your health.

But if you do, then thats just opening up a can of worms.

My house is built in 95, so i know theres no asbestos, my wife hates the popcorn ceilings, actually i don't think there is a soul alive that likes these ugly shits.

However is it really that bad to just live with it?
 
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GuardianX

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Dad is trying to convince me to remove popcorn ceilings, I've read its possible they have Asbestos in them if installed before 77?

We only have this next week. I removed the living room carpet and found hard wood floors underneath so I'll need to repair, sand, and refinish that area. We're planning on repainting 4 rooms right now.

He says we should have a professional do the taping/texturing (on the ceiling) or it'll look like shit. Wife is not thrilled with the idea of spending that much unplanned for money right now.

Thoughts? (do we really have to test for Asbestos? sounds like another $80 to get quick results and if you find it then what?)

If you wanna be 100% certain, you test. You could call up your inspector and ask them as well. That is what I did, if i uncover something and need to run additional tests, I will. The place we are finalizing is a 1978 build, so right on the border of the cutoff date. You could get unlocky and have a home built on or after the date where the builder was blowing through their stock. The issue I have with it, is that i want to do recessed lighting in most rooms and disturbing it, in any way, is basically the thing people talk about being dangerous. I plan to drill and saw through it so...LOL I wanna know.

Taping is easy IMHO...texturing is a pain in the ass. Luckily I and the wife hate texturing. It is a PAIN in the ass to have to re-texture a location after kids draw on it or something happens that wears the texture off an area. I would rather just do a flat wall and paint. Ultimately that is the plan for us. Tape, mud...ect...
 
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Daezuel

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I'm going to scrape a bit off in the closet and take it in for testing tomorrow. Thanks for the advice.
 

Picasso3

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Def hire to finish ceilings if you've never done drywall work. If the money isn't a problem I'd hire the whole deal, working overhead sucks and there is special equipment.
 

lurkingdirk

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I removed popcorn ceiling from my foyer, study, and the upstairs hall. That's all there was in the house. It was build in 1977, and I had it tested, and there was nothing nasty in it. So I did it all myself. I took my time, and I'm slow at mudding and sanding, but I got the whole area done in about 2 weeks.

But agreed on working over your head. It sucks the balls of an old, sweaty donkey.

I'd do it again in a second, though. Whoever decided popcorn ceiling was a good thing should be shot and shat upon.
 

Crone

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Rented a power rake today so I can get started on renovating my lawn. The power rake let me do some grading work and smooth out the bumps in the yard. Unfortunately, I don’t have a tractor, but I figured I only have about 4-5K sq ft of lawn so I flattened some chicken wire and put a couple concrete blocks on it for weight and drug it around the yard for a couple passes. It worked pretty well, but I’m not sure that my fat out of shape ass is gonna be able to walk tomorrow lol

View attachment 176881
This is awesome. If I wasn't in the Pacific NW where it's of course rainy AF, I'd be doing this to my yard right now.

Figured out that my backyard was basically completely dug up at some point with a tractor or something, and then never leveled out. Hence it's bumpy as hell, and about half of it I think I can level out with top soil, and the other half is so un-even, that it's gonna take a tractor. Gonna post pics up maybe sometime this week so I get some advice. You guys are super pros!~
 

Dandai

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This is awesome. If I wasn't in the Pacific NW where it's of course rainy AF, I'd be doing this to my yard right now.

Figured out that my backyard was basically completely dug up at some point with a tractor or something, and then never leveled out. Hence it's bumpy as hell, and about half of it I think I can level out with top soil, and the other half is so un-even, that it's gonna take a tractor. Gonna post pics up maybe sometime this week so I get some advice. You guys are super pros!~
Yeah, sadly a power rake is only good for very minor grading (like smoothing out tire ruts). Anything more significant than that and you’ll want a tractor... or a wheelbarrow and shovel if you’re a masochist.
 

Daezuel

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I've built a studio in a 3 car garage with interior walls bolted to the cement, full wiring, baffled, ceiling, muding, taping, painting, but I left it flat and didn't bother making the ceiling look perfect. Yeah, I fucking hated every bit of the ceiling work. I wasn't even going to touch the ceiling but both our fathers are telling us to get rid of the popcorn and frankly I hate that shit too.

Maybe I'll just ignore the texturing and git it done? Was hoping there was some kinda spray thing I could rent to knock this shit out quickly and easily.

Don't have the extra money to pay people and I don't want to try to do this with a house full of our shit so it's probably now or never.