Home Improvement

Lanx · May 23, 2023

Intrinsic said:
Okay, after thinking it through a bit I'm going to do the equipment in the upstairs hallway closet. It goes straight in to the attic so if I need to run cables for exterior cameras it is direct to there. There's a coax run that I can pull in to there for the Xfinity ethernet. I think it makes more sense than the downstairs coat closet. The only downside would be relocating the router from one end of the house to the other but I was already planning on upgrading the wireless aspect b/c the wifi in my shop sucks.

This closet has no outlet and rather than paying the electrician to do this, I feel like it is achievable.

That switch on the left is the hallway and the closet is on the right of the picture. So it should be doable to run an outlet off of it to the closet. Going to YouTube this and put a plan together. I've done similar electrical around the house but never added a plug from a switch.

View attachment 474838

note
your circuit breaker might be different, my two houses the lighting was all 15amp and the outlets are 20amp for the fuse
the wire gauge might be different too, using 14for the lights and 12 for outlets.

Intrinsic · May 23, 2023

Erronius said:
Take the faceplate off that switch first, and grab a flashlight.

If there's is ONLY a single 14/2 feeding into that switch box, and the white wire goes to one screw and the black wire goes to the other screw on that switch, then the original electrician may have pulled power to the box the light is on in the ceiling, and then just ran a 'switch loop' down to the switch. Really depends on how old the house is and how cheap some electrician was.

If you're lucky, they ran one romex into that box as a feed, there will be a wirenut to tie the neutrals together, a 'hot' black to feed into the switch and then another black wire for the switched hot going up to the light.

Disregard if you know all this already.

Yep, I get what you're putting down, but I don't think that will be the case because it is a 3-way with a switch at the end of the hallway. That switch is hallway, light is hallway. No current switch or light in closet.

*edit: Yeah it is one romex coming in to the switch right now. The outlet would be on the opposite side of this wall.

Big Phoenix · May 26, 2023

So thinking about replacing my AC. Right now I have a 25 year old 3.5 ton 13 seer unit and ideally looking to upgrade to a 15 seer unit. Whats the best manufacturer to go with? Brief look seems like it would be $8000-9000 for a install and removal old ac, that sound about right?

Also thinking about replacing 5 windows and a sliding glass door which are likely from the 70s when the house was built(fuck metal frames in direct sunlight). What do I need to look out for with that and what should I be going with?

lurker · May 26, 2023

Big Phoenix said:
So thinking about replacing my AC. Right now I have a 25 year old 3.5 ton 13 seer unit and ideally looking to upgrade to a 15 seer unit. Whats the best manufacturer to go with? Brief look seems like it would be $8000-9000 for a install and removal old ac, that sound about right?

Also thinking about replacing 5 windows and a sliding glass door which are likely from the 70s when the house was built(fuck metal frames in direct sunlight). What do I need to look out for with that and what should I be going with?

I looked into replacing my AC two years ago. We're talking AC, furnace and air handler and my quote was twice that. I don't remember the tonnage or seer but it was close to yours. Get another estimate or two. Maybe prices are different in Phoenix, where I assume you are, than in ID. 8 years ago I paid over $10k for a couple of 2 ton heat pumps in Northern AZ. Your quote seems low.

Erronius · May 26, 2023

Intrinsic said:
Yep, I get what you're putting down, but I don't think that will be the case because it is a 3-way with a switch at the end of the hallway. That switch is hallway, light is hallway. No current switch or light in closet.

*edit: Yeah it is one romex coming in to the switch right now. The outlet would be on the opposite side of this wall.

View attachment 474946

That's kind of your worst case scenario, if you wanted to pull power out of that box

There's a lot of different ways to wire a 3-way or 4-way. This looks like they 'dead ended' in that box. So two wires are the 'travelers' and then the remaining wire is the return back to the other 3-way switch.

So there's no neutral in that box. That white wire is probably the return wire. Or a traveler which is an alternating switched hot. You can look at the switch and if it's not labeled on the back, you can tell by the color of the screws. might be 2 black screws and one silver screw, etc.

But not only is there no neutral in that box, there's no constant hot. Power will just alternate between the two travelers.

This is also why they want electricians to re-designate white wires in situations like this, because it's easy for a homeowner to open a box and think it's a neutral

Intrinsic · May 26, 2023

Erronius said:
That's kind of your worst case scenario, if you wanted to pull power out of that box

There's a lot of different ways to wire a 3-way or 4-way. This looks like they 'dead ended' in that box. So two wires are the 'travelers' and then the remaining wire is the return back to the other 3-way switch.

So there's no neutral in that box. That white wire is probably the return wire. Or a traveler which is an alternating switched hot. You can look at the switch and if it's not labeled on the back, you can tell by the color of the screws. might be 2 black screws and one silver screw, etc.

But not only is there no neutral in that box, there's no constant hot. Power will just alternate between the two travelers.

This is also why they want electricians to re-designate white wires in situations like this, because it's easy for a homeowner to open a box and think it's a neutral

That is funny because I haven’t received the quote back from electrician yet. When he came by to look at the downstairs closet + doorbell he took a look here also. Didn’t open the switch or anything. Just shrugged and said “sure that’s easy.” Maybe to them it is a wash but it would seem one set up would be much easier to do, professional or not.

stupidmonkey · May 26, 2023

Big Phoenix said:
So thinking about replacing my AC. Right now I have a 25 year old 3.5 ton 13 seer unit and ideally looking to upgrade to a 15 seer unit. Whats the best manufacturer to go with? Brief look seems like it would be $8000-9000 for a install and removal old ac, that sound about right?

Also thinking about replacing 5 windows and a sliding glass door which are likely from the 70s when the house was built(fuck metal frames in direct sunlight). What do I need to look out for with that and what should I be going with?

First is it AC or a heat pump? You're in AZ so I assume the latter. It's also gonna depend on who makes the unit and if they need a crane because it's on the roof. If you're going Trane/Lenox and you add in air handler then I'd think you'd be around double if not more. If you go just heat pump and do something like Goodman then probably 3-4k with install.

I can send you info of a guy I've used in the past if you want. I've always thought he was reasonable and doesn't advertise like the guys in the flyer to charge a markup.

Dandai · May 26, 2023

I had a new heat pump and air handler put in back in 2018 in Raleigh NC for $4k iirc.

Daidraco · May 26, 2023

Dandai said:
I had a new heat pump and air handler put in back in 2018 in Raleigh NC for $4k iirc.

Prices went up to obnoxious levels, nationwide, in the last couple of years. But AZ is still so far away from me, that it might as well be in a different world.

On a separate note - my old ass Miter Saw my stepdad gave me like a decade ago has finally bit the dust. For as little as Ive used it since then, Im not sure what features I need to be looking for on a new one. As Ive seen them for as cheap as $150 up to like $900 and ... I just dont know why they would be that expensive. The only problem I ever had out of mine that ever royally pissed me off was when I was cutting some tall ass molding and I had to be creative with how I cut it. Thoughts?

Intrinsic · May 26, 2023

Erronius said:
That's kind of your worst case scenario, if you wanted to pull power out of that box

There's a lot of different ways to wire a 3-way or 4-way. This looks like they 'dead ended' in that box. So two wires are the 'travelers' and then the remaining wire is the return back to the other 3-way switch.

So there's no neutral in that box. That white wire is probably the return wire. Or a traveler which is an alternating switched hot. You can look at the switch and if it's not labeled on the back, you can tell by the color of the screws. might be 2 black screws and one silver screw, etc.

But not only is there no neutral in that box, there's no constant hot. Power will just alternate between the two travelers.

This is also why they want electricians to re-designate white wires in situations like this, because it's easy for a homeowner to open a box and think it's a neutral

Got the estimate. All I can say is lol

Big Phoenix · May 26, 2023

stupidmonkey said:
First is it AC or a heat pump? You're in AZ so I assume the latter. It's also gonna depend on who makes the unit and if they need a crane because it's on the roof. If you're going Trane/Lenox and you add in air handler then I'd think you'd be around double if not more. If you go just heat pump and do something like Goodman then probably 3-4k with install.

Yeah just heat pump replacement and removal of old one ideally.

Dandai · May 26, 2023

Daidraco said:
Prices went up to obnoxious levels, nationwide, in the last couple of years. But AZ is still so far away from me, that it might as well be in a different world.

On a separate note - my old ass Miter Saw my stepdad gave me like a decade ago has finally bit the dust. For as little as Ive used it since then, Im not sure what features I need to be looking for on a new one. As Ive seen them for as cheap as $150 up to like $900 and ... I just dont know why they would be that expensive. The only problem I ever had out of mine that ever royally pissed me off was when I was cutting some tall ass molding and I had to be creative with how I cut it. Thoughts?

When I eventually get a new miter saw, I'm planning on getting the compound sliding miter from the hazard fraught: 12 in. Dual-Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw with Precision LED Shadow Guide

Intrinsic · May 26, 2023

On a side note I picked up an AmpliFi Alien + Mesh on eBay for $360 that came in today. Works perfect. Guy included two new power cables b/c he kept the old ones and a new patch cable.

Lanx · May 26, 2023

Dandai said:
When I eventually get a new miter saw, I'm planning on getting the compound sliding miter from the hazard fraught: 12 in. Dual-Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw with Precision LED Shadow Guide

shit, at this point i want my impact gun to shoot out Lasers, i can't see shit!

Erronius · May 26, 2023

Intrinsic said:
Got the estimate. All I can say is lol

View attachment 475155

Do you have an attic light that's switched from near your attic access?

Sometimes the switch box will be up *IN* the attic, and then run up to a light. So if your closet power isn't too heavy, you could easily pull power out of that switch box, over to where your closet is then drop it down from above.

Also you can probably do all of this yourself, IMHO.

Still laughing at how he spelled receptacle LOL

Intrinsic · May 26, 2023

Daidraco said:
Prices went up to obnoxious levels, nationwide, in the last couple of years. But AZ is still so far away from me, that it might as well be in a different world.

On a separate note - my old ass Miter Saw my stepdad gave me like a decade ago has finally bit the dust. For as little as Ive used it since then, Im not sure what features I need to be looking for on a new one. As Ive seen them for as cheap as $150 up to like $900 and ... I just dont know why they would be that expensive. The only problem I ever had out of mine that ever royally pissed me off was when I was cutting some tall ass molding and I had to be creative with how I cut it. Thoughts?

Mitre saw wise I would look at what you're wanting to cut, and where. Do you need it to be more compact and transportable / jobsite, or is it going to be more or less permanently fixed to your bench?

I would stay in the 10" or 12" inch range and probably leaning more towards 10" for myself. Cost of 10" blades is a little less and I just don't have the need to cut anything that would really need something as large as a 12". But who knows, depending on the deal I may just get the 12" because.

Lights and lasers are a who cares. I wouldn't trust the laser b/c it would depend on too many factors for accuracy (kerf, blade, etc) and I'd probably rather just trust a zero clearance insert, but I don't know. Lights I feel the same way about. The light and laser on my drill press is shadowed sometimes so not even useable and the laser is slightly off depending on the bit...

I'd just get a Festool and be done with it if I was going to drop the money lol. I use my table saw and cross cut sled / mitre gauge more often.

Home Depot had a killer deal on a DeWalt 12" last year that I almost picked up b/c it was too good to pass. The Ryobi one I do have was from my Wife's dad who passed away so it is somewhat sentimental and it'd feel bad to replace it.

Daidraco · May 26, 2023

Erronius said:
Do you have an attic light that's switched from near your attic access?

Sometimes the switch box will be up *IN* the attic, and then run up to a light. So if your closet power isn't too heavy, you could easily pull power out of that switch box, over to where your closet is then drop it down from above.

Also you can probably do all of this yourself, IMHO.

Still laughing at how he spelled receptacle LOL

This little bit of shit he wants done shouldnt even cost a third of that. Guy is trying to roll

Intrinsic and his grammar, both, paint quite a special picture about him.

Intrinsic · May 26, 2023

Erronius said:
Do you have an attic light that's switched from near your attic access?

Sometimes the switch box will be up *IN* the attic, and then run up to a light. So if your closet power isn't too heavy, you could easily pull power out of that switch box, over to where your closet is then drop it down from above.

Also you can probably do all of this yourself, IMHO.

Still laughing at how he spelled receptacle LOL

For $1,000 I'll fly you to Little Rock and do it. I'm pretty insulted (*edit: by his quote) haha.

Daidraco · May 26, 2023

Intrinsic said:
Mitre saw wise I would look at what you're wanting to cut, and where. Do you need it to be more compact and transportable / jobsite, or is it going to be more or less permanently fixed to your bench?

I would stay in the 10" or 12" inch range and probably leaning more towards 10" for myself. Cost of 10" blades is a little less and I just don't have the need to cut anything that would really need something as large as a 12". But who knows, depending on the deal I may just get the 12" because.

Lights and lasers are a who cares. I wouldn't trust the laser b/c it would depend on too many factors for accuracy (kerf, blade, etc) and I'd probably rather just trust a zero clearance insert, but I don't know. Lights I feel the same way about. The light and laser on my drill press is shadowed sometimes so not even useable and the laser is slightly off depending on the bit...

I'd just get a Festool and be done with it if I was going to drop the money lol. I use my table saw and cross cut sled / mitre gauge more often.

Home Depot had a killer deal on a DeWalt 12" last year that I almost picked up b/c it was too good to pass. The Ryobi one I do have was from my Wife's dad who passed away so it is somewhat sentimental and it'd feel bad to replace it.

The one

Dandai linked had a consumer video review right below it and that guy basically goes over everything I would be looking for. The laser and such, ya - I dont need anything special like that. But the guy is comparing it to the Harbor Freight Miter Saw he had before he bought the one linked, and damn if I didnt start recalling that I had all the same problems with the DeWalt I had. Loose as fuck on angles. Trying to cut a 45 and it not be off by a couple degrees was a pain in the ass, etc.

Erronius · May 26, 2023

Daidraco said:
This little bit of shit he wants done shouldnt even cost a third of that. Guy is trying to roll Intrinsic and his grammar, both, paint quite a special picture about him.

I'm aware?

I'm not sure why people are responding to me as if I think that's a fair price?

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