Home Improvement

TJT said:

Yeah Ryobi is top quality stuff really. I've had the same edge trimmer for a decade and the battery hasn't even lost charge.

So I am looking to get spray foam insulation done. Has anyone done this? I have a need for both better insulation as TX is hot AF and my primary creature comfort of better sound reduction. We have this open plan house that seems to be the rage lately. While I like it it has the side effect of me being able to hear everything going on from my work desk. To the point of I can hear my wife and kids talking and not the work call I am on despite the computer being right in front of me and I have headphones on.

To aid in that spray foam insulation and I am also getting a solid wood door for the home office put in.

Click to expand...

Ive got bamboo-hardwood floors on the entire main level and vaulted ceilings through some of it. The main floor is just over 1600 sq/ft. I can hear what Christina is putting on the back deck when Im sitting in the living room. Its the materials, and as you commented, the open floor plan, that are allowing the sound to travel (in my opinion.)

As for the spray in foam - it has the highest resistance value per square inch. Obviously, you would use Fiber Glass insulation for the Attic (R45 or something). If you ask most people, they'll have no idea what the hell the "R" value means, much less what level they have for insulation.

If the conversation between the two things are connected - you'll have better results if you put a sound deadening barrier up after the insulation, before the sheetrock, and then after the sheetrock is done, use sound deadening paint. We only do that stuff when replacing the sheetrock on the exterior (between and exterior-interior) of our condo's because the cost sky rockets. Rarely do we ever have to outright replace sheetrock, and can normally just paint over it.

Anyone ass a pizza oven in their backyard?
Also kinda unrelated but anyone have experience with TICs with people you know/friends?

Does electrical code allow me to put an outlet here?


In case it's not clear, it's a basement window that was paneled over like 30 or so years ago when the heat was changed from oil to gas. I just want to attach a weatherized box and outdoor rated outlet there since I currently have no exterior power anywhere on the house. And it's a pain in the ass to get any too, since there's only a small part of the exposed foundation that is cinderblock and the rest of it is stone that appears to be about 2' thick.

Dandai said:

You can do whatever you want as long as you don’t mind insurance not paying out

Click to expand...

Depending on how much your local government has a stick up their ass you can be forced to remove unpermitted/code-violating modifications to the house. My wife's aunt was forced to remove a mini split AC in her garage after her neighbors turned her in (fuck those people), and I've heard horror stories of people having to rip out entire room additions to their house because of permit violations.

Dandai said:

You can do whatever you want as long as you don’t mind insurance not paying out

Click to expand...

I mind. Though I'm pretty sure any new line that I run with a GFCI breaker and new romex is 99.999999999% less likely to be the cause of a fire than the fabric covered two conductor shit running throughout the rest of the house. (Which I'm also getting rid of as part of this project, at least on the first floor where I have easy access to everything... going to have to shell out the cash for an electrician to come in and do the upper floors.)

Vorph said:

the fabric covered two conductor shit running throughout the rest of the house. (Which I'm also getting rid of as part of this project, at least on the first floor where I have easy access to everything... going to have to shell out the cash for an electrician to come in and do the upper floors.)

Click to expand...

Same shit in my house, also on the docket for later in the year. I definitely need an electrician, though, as I also need a main panel upgrade. Current wiring is old and a clusterfuck. I'm going to put in 40 circuits, each room lights and outlets isolated, multiple high amp circuits to the garage, and one big one for an EV charger, all after which I don't want to think about it again for at least 20 years.

Hopefully electricians are more available in your area. I literally couldn't find one willing to move two outlets and set up a dryer circuit for my bathroom remodel.

Vorph said:

Does electrical code allow me to put an outlet here?

View attachment 482903
In case it's not clear, it's a basement window that was paneled over like 30 or so years ago when the heat was changed from oil to gas. I just want to attach a weatherized box and outdoor rated outlet there since I currently have no exterior power anywhere on the house. And it's a pain in the ass to get any too, since there's only a small part of the exposed foundation that is cinderblock and the rest of it is stone that appears to be about 2' thick.

Click to expand...

What is that pipe?

Palum said:

What is that pipe?

Click to expand...

Furnace exhaust.

Vorph said:

Furnace exhaust.

Click to expand...

I don't think there's anything specific as long as it's GFCI, WR, covered box. Just working space and general clearance. If you're feeling pensive run it into conduit and around there corner into the exterior wall?

What is a reasonable cost for square foot to expect to redo ceiling with new drywall overlay? I've been told this is the cheapest/easiest way to remove textured ceilings vs scraping. I do not think I have strapping so probably needs to be 3/8" unfortunately.

Palum said:

What is a reasonable cost for square foot to expect to redo ceiling with new drywall overlay? I've been told this is the cheapest/easiest way to remove textured ceilings vs scraping. I do not think I have strapping so probably needs to be 3/8" unfortunately.

Click to expand...

Scraping isn't bad at all, and the best part is that it is not skilled labour. You can do all the scraping yourself and have a plasterer come in and finish it up. Use plenty of water once you break the paint seal and it doesn't go that badly. You should really try just a small part in a closet or somewhere that is fairly inconspicuous to see how it goes. If you get part way don't and say "fuck it," you can still go the overlay route and you haven't lost any money.

lurkingdirk said:

Scraping isn't bad at all, and the best part is that it is not skilled labour. You can do all the scraping yourself and have a plasterer come in and finish it up. Use plenty of water once you break the paint seal and it doesn't go that badly. You should really try just a small part in a closet or somewhere that is fairly inconspicuous to see how it goes. If you get part way don't and say "fuck it," you can still go the overlay route and you haven't lost any money.

Click to expand...

I've done this in one room. It was not easy work (really just dealing with the astronomical mess) and there's a lot of clean up to finish. I guess the problem is, if I go one or two rooms at a time there's not really a drywall person interested in small jobs like that (at least recently).

lurkingdirk said:

Scraping isn't bad at all, and the best part is that it is not skilled labour. You can do all the scraping yourself and have a plasterer come in and finish it up. Use plenty of water once you break the paint seal and it doesn't go that badly. You should really try just a small part in a closet or somewhere that is fairly inconspicuous to see how it goes. If you get part way don't and say "fuck it," you can still go the overlay route and you haven't lost any money.

Click to expand...

Seems like it would be miserable on the shoulders and neck though.