Home Improvement

Haus

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Light gray is what you go with if you are selling your place or if you have no actual taste.
This is what I have always traditionally thought, and yes I don't like the idea. Especially since when it comes down to it I'm an earth tone person now a gray person. But at this point we've had enough other house expenses that this interior paint and renovation will be January at the earliest.
 

Fucker

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This is what I have always traditionally thought, and yes I don't like the idea. Especially since when it comes down to it I'm an earth tone person now a gray person. But at this point we've had enough other house expenses that this interior paint and renovation will be January at the earliest.
My last house came in grey. I changed it to ivory and made a massive difference.
 

Palum

what Suineg set it to
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My last house came in grey. I changed it to ivory and made a massive difference.
So instead of calming neutral gray your house looks like the teeth of an early 30s chain smoker?
 
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Daidraco

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Match your major rooms, like the master bedroom, with the furniture thats in it. Match the adjoining rooms, like a hallway, with a color that doesnt clash with the main rooms, but also pairs well with the flooring. The most popular colors I'm running into with higher end real estate are basically the colors you see on a new Toyota Tacoma. Obviously its different names, but those flat, matte colors are just everywhere. Simply put, have almost a "theme" to each room. My Master Bedroom has authentic Cherry Wood Furniture and I based everything off that darker tone. You dont want the paint as dark as that, so of course its lighter. The daylight that enters the room is low as well. So lighter colors that pair well with dark brown etc.
car_motor_vehicle_land_vehicle_colorpalette_ex6c4.jpg


Outside of that - Beige, White, Light Gray, etc. are rental colors. They either hide dirt really well, or are extremely easy to match up with newer paint. Dont blanket your house in that shit.
 

Intrinsic

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Took the trash out last night and noticed this... Apparently when they installed it there either was not a stud up there to mount it to, or they neglected to do that. The bolts they used look awfully short if they were trying to attach it to the stud. I may climb up and see if I can get it pushed back and use some larger bolts. But if there's no stud there it isn't particularly relevant b/c it'll just pull out of the drywall again.

Pretty sure the only thing keeping this up is the pressure it is putting against the cross bar and torsion springs... (edit: actually, looking at the second picture there's a clear shadow b/w the 2x4 and the spring, so maybe it isn't touching it at all... not sure how it is still standing)

1691155085577.png

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Lanx

<Prior Amod>
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Took the trash out last night and noticed this... Apparently when they installed it there either was not a stud up there to mount it to, or they neglected to do that. The bolts they used look awfully short if they were trying to attach it to the stud. I may climb up and see if I can get it pushed back and use some larger bolts. But if there's no stud there it isn't particularly relevant b/c it'll just pull out of the drywall again.

Pretty sure the only thing keeping this up is the pressure it is putting against the cross bar and torsion springs... (edit: actually, looking at the second picture there's a clear shadow b/w the 2x4 and the spring, so maybe it isn't touching it at all... not sure how it is still standing)

View attachment 485268
View attachment 485269
as someone that has retentioned the torsion springs, it was fucking scary as shit

it seems the 2x4 is being held in place by 2 nails on the bottom rail

i would build up that 2x4, put L brackets on the side
 

Intrinsic

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as someone that has retentioned the torsion springs, it was fucking scary as shit

it seems the 2x4 is being held in place by 2 nails on the bottom rail

i would build up that 2x4, put L brackets on the side

Yeah, I've done my own torsion springs as well. Not gonna do that again.

Yeah but L-bracket it to what? If it is just drywall on each side that means just putting more screws in the drywall.

If the trolley can't stay attached maybe a Jackshaft option would need to be installed? That or ripping up all the drywall above the garage and building out the frame to have a solid attachment point?

I'm comfortable doing all that crap but not comfortable with the fact that the whole opener may crash down as I'm jiggling things around.
 

Dandai

<WoW Guild Officer>
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Took the trash out last night and noticed this... Apparently when they installed it there either was not a stud up there to mount it to, or they neglected to do that. The bolts they used look awfully short if they were trying to attach it to the stud. I may climb up and see if I can get it pushed back and use some larger bolts. But if there's no stud there it isn't particularly relevant b/c it'll just pull out of the drywall again.

Pretty sure the only thing keeping this up is the pressure it is putting against the cross bar and torsion springs... (edit: actually, looking at the second picture there's a clear shadow b/w the 2x4 and the spring, so maybe it isn't touching it at all... not sure how it is still standing)

View attachment 485268
View attachment 485269
Personally, I called the local overhead door company to do this kind of work as it exceeds my risk appetite. They work with these springs every day.
 

Intrinsic

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Personally, I called the local overhead door company to do this kind of work as it exceeds my risk appetite. They work with these springs every day.

Since the door was open I couldn’t get a good front view. It isn’t really the springs that are involved. They’re fully supported by the sides and not just attached. One more damn call this morning and I can talk to the door company about it. Then back to the neurosurgeon for a spine check up… which is another reason I don’t want to mess with this myself.
 

Lanx

<Prior Amod>
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Yeah, I've done my own torsion springs as well. Not gonna do that again.

Yeah but L-bracket it to what? If it is just drywall on each side that means just putting more screws in the drywall.

If the trolley can't stay attached maybe a Jackshaft option would need to be installed? That or ripping up all the drywall above the garage and building out the frame to have a solid attachment point?

I'm comfortable doing all that crap but not comfortable with the fact that the whole opener may crash down as I'm jiggling things around.
to the bottom rail, the garage door header
dab78eb585bbba94e2834493b0983d0f.png


or maybe even replace w/ a 2x8
 

Intrinsic

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to the bottom rail, the garage door header
dab78eb585bbba94e2834493b0983d0f.png


or maybe even replace w/ a 2x8
I see what you’re saying. Yeah that may address the bottom but the force is coming from the top and the weight of the stuff, so it would still be pulling.
At least the bottom would maybe help the whole thing not falling on my wife. I don’t even use the garage 😂
 

BrutulTM

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Yeah but L-bracket it to what? If it is just drywall on each side that means just putting more screws in the drywall.

Put a chunk of 2x4 from the existing board out to the nearest stud on either side. Screw it into them to hold it in place, then put a third piece of 2x4 all the way across the top of all 3 boards and get it well attached to the studs on both sides.
 
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Lanx

<Prior Amod>
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I see what you’re saying. Yeah that may address the bottom but the force is coming from the top and the weight of the stuff, so it would still be pulling.
At least the bottom would maybe help the whole thing not falling on my wife. I don’t even use the garage 😂
maybe find where the stud is, screw in a 1/2 inch plywood board to it, and then re screw in the 2x4 to that?
 

Intrinsic

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Yeah I agree. Now how to do all that without killing myself and needing another spine fusion.
 
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Pasteton

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Help me understand if I’m just retarded or if construction is really this insane now. Was looking at a ‘down to the studs’ Reno on an old place basically would need some foundation retrofitting and wall shifting and big layout changes as well as new plumbing , mechanical, roof deck etc. BUT the plan was to stay in the footprint of the existing structure. Currently is 3300sq ft and final structure would be 5000sq ft mostly as a result of finishing currently unfinished areas like stuff behind the garage etc.
I got quoted ‘atleast 4 million’ from a contractor. Granted I am asking for a lot and nice finishes but I was anticipating 2 million at most. Does this sound in any way reasonable or am I getting fucked by being in Cali? How much would this shit cost in say texas
 
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Captain Suave

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I got quoted ‘atleast 4 million’ from a contractor.

Where are you doing this? You can buy a similarly sized new/recent house in a very nice part of LA for significantly less than that.

Generally speaking, though, if you're talking changes that major (foundation, etc.) it's usually cheaper to bulldoze everything and start over. Retrofitting is a lot more labor.
 
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ToeMissile

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Where are you doing this? You can buy a similarly sized new/recent house in a very nice part of LA for significantly less than that.

Generally speaking, though, if you're talking changes that major (foundation, etc.) it's usually cheaper to bulldoze everything and start over. Retrofitting is a lot more labor.
A lot of nice places down in OC in that range as well.