Home Improvement

That's what I'm saying. I have similar plumbing for my sump hole, and I have to have a check valve there. Any plumbing up gravity from that opening could back up there if there is heavy volume. Imagine every toilet is flushed while the kitchen sink is on, the dishwasher draining, and the washer also draining. Not likely, right? But possible. You're going to have back flow to that opening.

I don't rrp bet. Silly.

Perhaps you'll be fine. There's the possibility that you won't be. If it were me, I'd eliminate that possibility. Do as you see fit.

Hah, dumbass!

Also, backflow shouldn't be a concern there. However, depending on how close the trap is to the stack, I'd be concerned about it siphoning the trap. But so long as it's at least 6-12" from the stack, it should be okay.

Although after looking closer, I'm wondering if you used a T instead of a TY. A T should basically never be used in drainage. Shouldn't really affect anything, but just the same.

Picasso_sl said:

I have hooked up the drain for an extensive field test, no trap failures yet.

On another note, i discovered my fucking frostproof faucet outside froze and busted. I had never had anything so fancy so I didn't know you have to take the hose off for it to work.

Click to expand...

Styrofoam cover.

Shop Frost King Standard Styrofoam Faucet Cover at Lowes.com

There is something else wrong with your sanitary drainage system, then. That appears to be a 4" line. A 4" line can drain 180 fixture units on the horizontal and 540 on the vertical, according to the Canadian plumbing code. A tank style toilet is 4 FU. An entire house is probably not going to be more than 15-20 FU if you have a couple bathroom groups (6 FU each), a kitchen sink (1.5 FU), a washer/dryer (2 FU) and a couple other misc. things. If you are getting backups, it's because there is a blockage somewhere further down the line.

We do 30 story high sanitary 4" stacks on high rise projects, and do not install a single backflow valve on anything. Because properly sized, vented and installed you should never have a backup.

You need to disconnect the hose so that the hose bib drains completely out. They're installed with a slope to the exterior. The actual valve/stop is 8-12" back from the exterior typically (they're available in a wide variety of lengths), so it should never freeze back there as it will be past the insulation, vapor barrier etc. Not disconnecting the hose is just begging for water to remain in the hose bib, potentially causing a freeze and burst.



Even with a NFHB, it's still good plumbing practice to have an easily accessible valve in the interior that shuts water off to the hose bib, so even if it does freeze you won't have a flood on your hands.

You just cut a hole on the inside wall with a utility knife. The Frost Proof Sillcock unscrews out with a wrench. I first tried replacing the bibb washer but no luck. That is if you have a slab. With a basement you might get lucky and do it down stairs between the joists.

If you need to cut the sheetrock to see where the valve connects to the plumbing, that's a good excuse to buy an oscillating multi-tool. The kerf that thing makes is so fine, you can just put the piece you cut out back in with a dab of caulk, paint the seam, vacuum up the dust and you're done. You'll find other things to do with that tool in the future.