moonarchia
The Scientific Shitlord
- 21,433
- 38,940
It's better to have a condo association that is active in keeping units from damaging each other than one that isn't. I've lived in that kind before.
Home Improvement
- Thread starter Picasso3
- Start date
sleevedraw
Revolver Ocelot
- 1,786
- 5,999
It's called a shower pan. Theoretically yes, but a pain in the ass, and general Google consensus is that the amount of work and cost is such that you might as well just gut the entire shower while you're at it, because if you goof up and damage the already extant waterproofing system underneath it while trying to take the pan out, you're going to have bigger problems.
- 4
- 1
ToeMissile
Pronouns: zie/zhem/zer
- 2,707
- 1,652
The little bit of extra distance from the wall for a mount with some kind of extension is worth the ease of access IMO. Such a pain in the ass anytime you need to get back there
- 1
moonarchia
The Scientific Shitlord
- 21,433
- 38,940
I will almost never need to get behind my monitor. Power cord and 2 input cords are the only things being plugged into it. The freedom to change my desk up on the fly is the driver for this.
- 1
ToeMissile
Pronouns: zie/zhem/zer
- 2,707
- 1,652
Yah, I don’t have to often either. For me it’s worth it to not have to squeeze my hand in somewhere and feel around while holding a flashlight or something in the other hand. This is mainly the tv in the living room, but same concept.
To each their own.
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
- 60,666
- 132,809
yea, i literally bought a borg cube for a case cuz i was tired of some wire fitting somewhere, while squeeze w/ my thumb and index finger and my pinky sticks out like i'm drinking tea.
now i can just grab a huge bundle of wires and not care
moonarchia
The Scientific Shitlord
- 21,433
- 38,940
It's a light monitor. Worst case scenario I can just lift it off the mount if I have to kerjiggle the wires for some reason.
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
- 60,666
- 132,809
is there a reason why you can't get a desk mounted monitor arm and avoid the handyman?
moonarchia
The Scientific Shitlord
- 21,433
- 38,940
I have a very limited amount of space. This is also part of wanting a slim profile for the mount.
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
- 60,666
- 132,809
moonarchia
The Scientific Shitlord
- 21,433
- 38,940
I already linked to the type of monitor I have. It has a very thin profile without the stand 2 inches max. I already know what mount I will be getting. Just need to find out the info from condo association to see if there are any rules or things I need to be aware of before I get a handyman lined up. It will be going on a wall that connects to the external wall of the building.
moonarchia
The Scientific Shitlord
- 21,433
- 38,940
Oooh, link to where I can get that?
nm, found it. Requires drywall. Probably still want a regular mount with an inch or two of clearance for air flow anyways
Frenzied Wombat
Potato del Grande
- 14,730
- 31,802
Has anybody here installed or investigated a backup generator system for their home? Power has just become too unreliable and summer brownouts fucked with my appliances. What started as a thought to just call generac and put in a standard natgas fueled generator, has led me down the rabbit hole to looking at something like the below charging off the grid, backed up by a standard portable gas generator for extended outages, and maybe some supplemental solar (not interested in covering my roof with solar). Just seems to be so much out there now with rapidly changing tech.
www.bluettipower.com
BLUETTI EP900 + B500 Home Battery Backup
www.bluettipower.com
BrutulTM
Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
- 14,433
- 2,219
The natural gas backup is great unless whatever took out the electricity also shut down the gas. You can probably keep parts to convert it to propane and have a tank of that for backup or just have a portable generator that runs on propane as a backup. The nice thing about propane is that it doesn't go bad from sitting around like gasoline. Downside is that it's harder to refill than gasoline if there's a blizzard going on or something.
I've been doing a little side hustle lately buying non-running generators at auctions and getting them running to resell. People are so lazy most of the time all I need to do is dump out the bad gas and clean the carburetor and they will fire right up. Then I change the oil, filters, and spark plug and resell them since there was nothing wrong with them but a lack of basic maintenance.
I've been doing a little side hustle lately buying non-running generators at auctions and getting them running to resell. People are so lazy most of the time all I need to do is dump out the bad gas and clean the carburetor and they will fire right up. Then I change the oil, filters, and spark plug and resell them since there was nothing wrong with them but a lack of basic maintenance.
- 2
Siliconemelons
Avatar of War Slayer
- 10,791
- 15,137
Has anybody here installed or investigated a backup generator system for their home? Power has just become too unreliable and summer brownouts fucked with my appliances. What started as a thought to just call generac and put in a standard natgas fueled generator, has led me down the rabbit hole to looking at something like the below charging off the grid, backed up by a standard portable gas generator for extended outages, and maybe some supplemental solar (not interested in covering my roof with solar). Just seems to be so much out there now with rapidly changing tech.
BLUETTI EP900 + B500 Home Battery Backup
Nice packaging and stuff, but that's a bit steep for muh chynah lifepro batteries... the point of those batteries was to be half the cost.
lurker
Vyemm Raider
- 1,360
- 2,789
BrutulTM
Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
- 14,433
- 2,219
Having some weird electrical problems in our outbuildings so I'm wondering if
Erronius
has any ideas. My brother is a former electrician and he's kind of stumped by it. We have a well pit that feeds a stock tank and all we're trying to power is a solenoid valve that turns the water on and off and a tank heater. There's a sub panel there with it's own ground rod and there's a steady 240v across the two hot wires but when you turn on the solenoid the voltage on that side drops from 120v to like 45v. If you turn on the tank heater on the other side the voltage comes back up but the tank heater doesn't really seem to be getting very hot and we've had some issues with the calves getting shocked trying to drink when the heater is in the tank. We've replaced the heater but the same thing happens. We've also had issues at another tank at a sub-panel that's up the line a ways where the GFCI breaker keeps tripping and/or the cattle get shocked when trying to use the heater (it's a 1500 watt floating heater like this one...).
We've tried replacing the heater multiple times but nothing changes so I don't think it's an issue with the heater. What it really seems like is that there's no neutral. We checked all the sub panels and the neutral isn't loose anywhere. Could it be broken under the ground somewhere? If so is there some way to test it or even figure out where it could be? We're talking like 6-800 feet of buried cable here so just running a new one is not very appealing but it may be necessary. Also it was originally wired without a ground running back to the service. I don't really see how that could cause this problem, but it's something different. We have tried connecting the neutral and ground in the first sub panel and having ground rods at each sub panel but that didn't seem to solve the problem and I think we're back to having them separate in all the panels now.
This is a single service running to a house and a bunch of different outbuildings. I think there's 10 sub panels total but the problem is just on the one leg that's older than the rest of them and doesn't have a ground.
Erronius
has any ideas. My brother is a former electrician and he's kind of stumped by it. We have a well pit that feeds a stock tank and all we're trying to power is a solenoid valve that turns the water on and off and a tank heater. There's a sub panel there with it's own ground rod and there's a steady 240v across the two hot wires but when you turn on the solenoid the voltage on that side drops from 120v to like 45v. If you turn on the tank heater on the other side the voltage comes back up but the tank heater doesn't really seem to be getting very hot and we've had some issues with the calves getting shocked trying to drink when the heater is in the tank. We've replaced the heater but the same thing happens. We've also had issues at another tank at a sub-panel that's up the line a ways where the GFCI breaker keeps tripping and/or the cattle get shocked when trying to use the heater (it's a 1500 watt floating heater like this one...).
We've tried replacing the heater multiple times but nothing changes so I don't think it's an issue with the heater. What it really seems like is that there's no neutral. We checked all the sub panels and the neutral isn't loose anywhere. Could it be broken under the ground somewhere? If so is there some way to test it or even figure out where it could be? We're talking like 6-800 feet of buried cable here so just running a new one is not very appealing but it may be necessary. Also it was originally wired without a ground running back to the service. I don't really see how that could cause this problem, but it's something different. We have tried connecting the neutral and ground in the first sub panel and having ground rods at each sub panel but that didn't seem to solve the problem and I think we're back to having them separate in all the panels now.
This is a single service running to a house and a bunch of different outbuildings. I think there's 10 sub panels total but the problem is just on the one leg that's older than the rest of them and doesn't have a ground.
Last edited:
Edaw
Parody
- 12,285
- 77,769
