
Edit: I can't remember if I went over this already in this thread, so sorry if I am repeating myself.has anyone ran cat6 rated for direct burial? i have looked at too many images of AI cable and reviews are all over the place. think i will need 50' from router under the house to a ground protector, then another 50' underground to the outbuilding.
I'd put some version of this down before I'd epoxy a garage floor.Starting a garage remodel next week. Removing old epoxy (prior owner did it themselves and its awful) and having new epoxy put down with a thick clear coat on top. Fresh paint on walls. New LED lights in the ceilings. New garage doors with wall mounted motors and mostly vertical rails so they're higher up. And, a four post car storage lift on one side. Thankfully the ceilings are tall enough.
Probably going to add a mini-split or stand-alone AC unit for there too since it currently has no air system, which is pretty annoying for summers.
Yes I did it about 5 years ago and all is well, that said conduit would be the move if I ever did it again.has anyone ran cat6 rated for direct burial? i have looked at too many images of AI cable and reviews are all over the place. think i will need 50' from router under the house to a ground protector, then another 50' underground to the outbuilding.
has anyone ran cat6 rated for direct burial? i have looked at too many images of AI cable and reviews are all over the place. think i will need 50' from router under the house to a ground protector, then another 50' underground to the outbuilding.
If it's only 50 feet I'd put it in conduit. It won't cost that much and it will be a lot more protected. Plus if something does happen to it, you can just pull it out and replace it without digging up the yard again.
Edit: I can't remember if I went over this already in this thread, so sorry if I am repeating myself.
I looked into it some years ago and decided a wireless bridge was cheaper and easier. When you are building your house it's even easier, as you can have them run a Cat-6 out to the eave of your house for it (or do it yourself), and it's PoE, so no other wires needed.
Since the camera people at IPCamtalk recommend factory joined male connectors, if you are going to use male connectors, I used appropriate lengths from Monoprice for all Cat-6 runs. That was probably overkill and could have used female connectors for the in wall runs, then patch cables for that last few inches to the devices. It adds connection points, but they should all be protected enough not to cause issues.
The Unifi/Ubiquity bridge is very nice and can go a long way (~9 miles), as long as it has a direct line of sight. This is their equivalent current bridge listed on the site. [Edit: finding their various products can be difficult. HERE is what I am using, since it doesn't need all the features of the more expensive "pro" version. They have other bridges in their nano line as well, like here and here.]They have other bridges and you might be able to find an older cheaper model, depending on how much data or devices you will be using.You don't need a router at the other end, just an access point.
The recommendations I found for buried Cat6 was using conduit and underground rated wire together. Not only that, I read reports of people's systems getting fried by close lightning strikes, when nothing else was hurt, so the recommendation was to put protection at each end of the run. After reading that, I moved on to a fiberoptic run instead, which still needed conduit, but didn't have the issue with lightning. Even ordered the fiber line and part of the connectors... before seeing the wireless bridge from unifi.
Edit: Here is a dude walking through setting up the similar multi-directional disk, if you want to see how involved it is (I've used other videos of his to set up my system):
how about you keep the shed offgrid w/ a 1500wh from costco for 800bucksWife suddenly got hair up her ass wanting to run to the store tommorow to start buying shit because she watched a youtube video. Project needs worked on but need a exact plan first.
Looking to do this somewhat responsibly but somewhat Wakandanh rigged, it is non hoa country after all.
She has a pre made shed we bought her to be a bitch barn for her stained glass making etc hobbies. Already have some insulation, a window ac unit etc sitting in there. She is wanting to go thru with insulation/boarding it to be a proper mini apartment.
Todays post on it is about the electric. I originally said simplest was outdoor rated heavy duty extension cord through a hole into the unit and then cut and ran to a few outlet boxes. She at one point thought she wanted it to have it's own electrical panel. And I think we are now at somewhere in the middle. Plan was major wiring finished by a sparky, but we try to do some of the prep like digging the trench to it and putting outlet boxes in place etc.
There is an outlet on a deck right next to it, then around the corner of the house is the service panel which has a outlet. I'm not certain which circuits feed either outlet so that has to be figured out if we end up using them. We had added a breaker for the pool, there's at least one 220 that feeds the garage where it got split to 110's... Or maybe it was opposite and they had 2 110's feeding a 220 compressor which went when it sold seeing as I dont have a 220 outlet (shop has it's own little electrical panel I havn't looked in since we bought it)
I am not an electrical guy at all. So there's that added amount of ignorance to the whole thing.
Short version, debating trying to heavy duty extension feed this little 8x12 shack off 1 or 2 110 circuits, or go thru with seeing if we have the space to add it's own breaker. If the latter, not sure if there's a need to do conduit if it's the right outdoor rated heavy gauge wiring sunk low enough, though I'd rather not try to dig 30 feet of 2foot trench. The pool we had only buried like 6-8 inches. So maybe can get away with shallower if it's in some metal or pvc piping though if load high at all maybe that could trap too much heat?
Red square bottom left outlet on deck by french doors, blue square the shed, right red square where back door/electrical panel w/ an outlet is.
View attachment 629833
House box is technically outside anyways. That was some of the discussion is if she would ever need 240 in there, I dont see what could need it. She said maybe a kiln, but that seems too hot sketchy anyways. Just was trying to keep cost down and not be throwing entire new panels up and all that. Just one breaker to kill the whole hut, run sodering iron/small saws, lights and the ac/space heater.I'd put a small panel in there if I were you. I don't know electrical codes and I live in the sticks so I don't have to follow them, but if it was me, I would give it a dedicated 240 breaker in the house (30 amps or so) and run a line in PVC conduit to a small sub panel. One breaker for the lights, one for the outlets, and space to add a couple more in the future if you need them. Burying it 6 or 8 inches deep would be fine. There's really nothing difficult in this job. An electrician will probably charge you a couple grand to do it but IMO it could easily be done via YouTube University.
Just the space heater will take 3/4 of your power on a single breaker. You don't need 240 but it just makes it easier because you can run a single wire and connect multiple breakers to it with a balanced load. Also maybe you will get divorced and throw her shit out one day and want to put a big ass table saw in there or something. The "entire new panel" will cost you less than $50, plus the cost of a couple of breakers.House box is technically outside anyways. That was some of the discussion is if she would ever need 240 in there, I dont see what could need it. She said maybe a kiln, but that seems too hot sketchy anyways. Just was trying to keep cost down and not be throwing entire new panels up and all that. Just one breaker to kill the whole hut, run sodering iron/small saws, lights and the ac/space heater.
Yknow people say that, and all my life different houses, never managed to trip any 15/20 amp breakers running space heaters on same circuit like currently a computer/deep freeze/heater in the winter and similiar examples. Close to the edge sure, maybe the space heater just isn't that big. I have my doubts how much winter use it would see, so mainly the small ac would be biggest draw.Just the space heater will take 3/4 of your power on a single breaker. You don't need 240 but it just makes it easier because you can run a single wire and connect multiple breakers to it with a balanced load. Also maybe you will get divorced and throw her shit out one day and want to put a big ass table saw in there or something. The "entire new panel" will cost you less than $50, plus the cost of a couple of breakers.