What vehicle do you drive?

Hekotat

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I don't find that it sounds a lot different than any of the 15000+rpm Judd V10's and such. Very high pitched wail. I also love it, but come on, can you imagine having a 4-rotor? 2-rotors popped apex seals like candy, can you imagine this hunk of shit? It'd probably blow blue smoke at idle after 200 miles.

Best way to get this sound and not break the bank is a sportbike. Get some loud pipes and they all sound like that.
I like rebuilding shit so I'd love it, but if i can afford 1 I can get 2.
 

Burren

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Sludig

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Half way seriously considering this as a beater hauler. Sadly no cooled seats but is awd, and a stick so that might be fun.


I'm still without a car basically using wifes old beater juke with 180k miles that might die any day or sounds like lose suspension on the road.

So been antsy for something less embarrassing. Ideally my maverick would have come in this year and fitted my high mpg commuter and farm hauler needs. But I can put 4 goats in this or a couple square bales.


Also seen a ugly silver 2 year older diesel tsi, little cheaper more miles more visually worn. More mpg but scared of my first diesel and some stations out here gas only


Couple pretty nice gtis but then your at 26k and not really serving the role of a cheap 2nd car.
 
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Axiel

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Half way seriously considering this as a beater hauler. Sadly no cooled seats but is awd, and a stick so that might be fun.

That car you're linking to could also die any day; VW gdi engines from those years carbon up the valves stupid fast and routinely die before 120k.

It's also not a stick.
 

Masakari

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Am I stupid for wanting to get a 2013 Z06 just because it's the last year the Corvettes had a good rear-end? I hate the abominations they've turned into since.

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lurkingdirk

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Am I stupid for wanting to get a 2013 Z06 just because it's the last year the Corvettes had a good rear-end? I hate the abominations they've turned into since.

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No. That's a good looking car. The new ones have promise, but that is gorgeous.
 
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Burren

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Am I stupid for wanting to get a 2013 Z06 just because it's the last year the Corvettes had a good rear-end? I hate the abominations they've turned into since.

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And it's light weight and it's reliable, and it's easy to mod and the transmission is stout and it's the last 427 small block, ever.

I'm shopping for one as well; 2009-2013.

If you get one, make sure the heads have been replaced, or do it yourself first thing.
 
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Masakari

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And it's light weight and it's reliable, and it's easy to mod and the transmission is stout and it's the last 427 small block, ever.

I'm shopping for one as well; 2009-2013.

If you get one, make sure the heads have been replaced, or do it yourself first thing.

Is that the first to go with people driving them hard?
 

Burns

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Am I stupid for wanting to get a 2013 Z06 just because it's the last year the Corvettes had a good rear-end? I hate the abominations they've turned into since.

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Corvettes are the best sports car for the money and it's a fun car to drive. I have kept my C6 bone stock and not had an issue for 80k+ miles.

From what I recall, replacing the heads is one of the cheapest mods to do when looking at $/hp ratio.

Afaik, the main failure points for hard driven bone stock C6 is going to be clutch, then transmission because those are the items that get the most wear from bad drivers. When looking at a car that has had a bunch of HP mods put into it, there is no telling where the point of failures will be, due to stresses added that are outside what the GM engineers designed for. Had a friend who went through some vettes because he kept modding them with a bunch of HP and nasty cams, then it seemed like a never ending chain of drivetrain parts breaking due to it (I think he managed to warp/twist a driveshaft even (from wheel hop?)).

For a daily driver, the Zo6 may be a little rough since it has the firmest suspension and driving a manual can also get tedious in rush hour traffic, but I am still not a fan of the paddle shifter auto. I love the wide body, but if I was going to daily drive it, I would rather have a Grand Sport over a Zo6. If you plan on tracking it though, the Zo6 is going to be the best value.

My only other real gripe is the radio situation; it's angled in such a way that any modern replacement will have a screen that is going to catch and reflect a bunch of light, making it hard to see.
 

Blazin

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Am I stupid for wanting to get a 2013 Z06 just because it's the last year the Corvettes had a good rear-end? I hate the abominations they've turned into since.

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I had one and while I enjoyed the car it was a rough ride for daily use. I bought the C7 z06 after that and it was a considerable improvement in drivability but had the styling change. Would love to have had the interior of the C7 in the C6 .
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Burren

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Sludig

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Well jinxed it. Couldn't get the beater car started this am. Doubt it's worth fixing imo, though that's probably a fight with the wife.

Locally a nice mustang with performance pack, magnetize, etc. But it's stick, which would be a positive for a fun car, but the 10 speeds are supposed to be so much faster and would be my daily driver. But I'm sure still expensive for what it should be.


Answer may be suck it up and buy anything under 50k miles and just try to wait until late next year to find decent fun car prices
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Burns

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Well jinxed it. Couldn't get the beater car started this am. Doubt it's worth fixing imo, though that's probably a fight with the wife.

Locally a nice mustang with performance pack, magnetize, etc. But it's stick, which would be a positive for a fun car, but the 10 speeds are supposed to be so much faster and would be my daily driver. But I'm sure still expensive for what it should be.


Answer may be suck it up and buy anything under 50k miles and just try to wait until late next year to find decent fun car prices
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What's wrong with the beater? If it's something you could do yourself, you could hobble along while keeping an eye on a few different models you like. That way can get an idea of the market to become an educated buyer. Before the auto market insanity of the last few years, used sports cars price went down in the winter and shot back up in the spring.

When pricing out my car I used Excel (now days: google docx) and copy pasted numbers into various cells of the cars I found. I cant find that spreadsheet atm, but I mostly set it up like the following price tool from Manheim (from 5+ years ago, prices are not accurate). Just set up the columns to your preference:
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Sludig

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What's wrong with the beater? If it's something you could do yourself, you could hobble along while keeping an eye on a few different models you like. That way can get an idea of the market to become an educated buyer. Before the auto market insanity of the last few years, used sports cars price went down in the winter and shot back up in the spring.

When pricing out my car I used Excel (now days: google docx) and copy pasted numbers into various cells of the cars I found. I cant find that spreadsheet atm, but I mostly set it up like the following price tool from Manheim. Just set up the columns to your preference:

Havnt had a chance to diagnose but I'm no mechanic, no codes, just tries to crank, hear it turning over, just doesn't light and go. So at a random guess fuel pump or last time with similar only like 25k miles ago was fouled spark plugs, leaks oil when driven. Maybe that simple again. 180k mile juke don't pretty well until now.


Basically last i checked car might be worth 2-3k so figure any repair over 1k hardly worth it, though probably still what we do just to be able to sell a bit easier.


Looking at a 40k mile elantra of all the things for like 18k is maybe where I'll swallow my pride. Not sure what else these days is consisted a reliable cheap car after yall enlightened me to some vw issues
 

Burns

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I would think you would have misfires on some cylinders and running rough before being unable to start, if the plugs were getting that caked in carbon. You shouldn't need to be a mechanic to check the plugs though.

Plugs are cheap, spacing tool is cheap, you only need 4 plugs, and you can find the spacing requirements online. About the worst thing you could fuck up is cross threading the plugs, so just start them by hand, like you would a regular ol bolt, and you are gtg. They also make a deep socket specifically for plugs that holds the end in place.

Hell, if they are covered in black when you take them out, grab some break cleaner and spray down the end of the plugs and put them back in the engine once they are clean and dry, or test them with a voltmeter.

Youtube has videos of just about anything car mechanic related:


 
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