Woodworking
- Thread starter Intrinsic
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Guest, it's time once again for the massively important and exciting FoH Asshat Tournament!
Go here and give us your nominations!Who's been the biggest Asshat in the last year? Give us your worst ones!
Noodleface
A Mod Real Quick
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Guitar is almost done. Had a few runs with the oil, probably putting on heavier costs than I should. I sanded out what I could. It is what it is. Lots of lessons learned with building up Tru oil. I will say with 20 or so coats it is very thick, a lot thicker than I imagined.
Waiting two weeks for it to cure now and will post the final results after assembly.
Waiting two weeks for it to cure now and will post the final results after assembly.
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If you can afford festool, and you're worried about your lungs, get a positive air pressure respirator.
They cover your whole head. Air comes from inside (via a hepa filtered pack on your waist), and no dust gets in.
3M Versaflo TR-300N+ HIK Heavy Industry PAPR Kit, Gray, Universal, 1 Each
The 3M™ TR-300N+ HIK Versaflo™ Heavy Industry PAPR Kit protects healthcare workers from airborne particulates in a complete, all-in-one kit. Easy to use respiratory protection. Enviro Safety is an Authorized Distributor of 3M Respirators.
www.envirosafetyproducts.com
Expensive, yes, but this, or a similar product, will give you the best protection vs dust.
That said, unless you are doing constant dusty work (machine sawing, routing, planing, sanding) of materials generating fine dust all day, you might be ok compromosing and using a 3M canister respirator <$100 + cartridges. It will give you 99.999% protection while you wear it. Then get normal dust collection / shop air cleaner if you're just a hobbyist.
Leave the office indoors.
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Both this and the festool are excellent. Regardless of sander, us the 3M Xtract 2 (cubitron) sandpaper. It's rediculously better than anything else
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Rajaah
Honorable Member
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Not directly woodworking, but I've got a question. Have a (brand new and expensive) book that I acquired a few months back. Finally got around to reading it and the binding is shot to hell. As in none of the pages will stick. They're attached to each other in clumps, but not to the overarching binding.
Is this sort of thing salvageable with at-home methods? Any particular special kind of glue that needs to be used? I feel like if I try to do it myself with no insight first it'll just fall apart.
Wouldn't care except it's a $40 collector's item that I was planning to resell at some point. Not expecting it to be resellable ever but it would be cool to at least get it to the point where it's respectable enough to read.
From the looks of things, and considering it was brand new, I suspect it got left in some sort of over-hot storage at some point that just disintegrated the glue. That's a wild guess though.
Is this sort of thing salvageable with at-home methods? Any particular special kind of glue that needs to be used? I feel like if I try to do it myself with no insight first it'll just fall apart.
Wouldn't care except it's a $40 collector's item that I was planning to resell at some point. Not expecting it to be resellable ever but it would be cool to at least get it to the point where it's respectable enough to read.
From the looks of things, and considering it was brand new, I suspect it got left in some sort of over-hot storage at some point that just disintegrated the glue. That's a wild guess though.
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Based on what I've seen over the years, it's probably fixable. There's a lot of book repair / restoration videos on YouTube. You should take a look at the techniques and see if you are comfortable with it. Look up book re-binding or book restoration.
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Bandwagon
Kolohe
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I did book bindings when I worked at a prop house in Hollywood. It was pretty simple, but fuck if I know the name of the goop that we mixed together to bind the books. It's pretty similar to epoxy and the way you work with it, but the result is very flexible and not hardened.
From brief googling it looks like bookbinders use a specially-formulated PVA glue that doesn't dry brittle.
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Intrinsic
Person of Whiteness
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Are you referring to text block sag or the actual pages within the text block separating? Sag can be natural if the book is thick and heavy and may not even devalue the book that much. Most of the sellers/buyers that I have experience with understand it is the nature of gravity and heavy books, storing them upright. But it is fixable. If it is an “expensive” book as you say, I’d look in to hiring out instead of doing it myself.
Just picked this up which should be in next June. Solaris is at the top of my list so was very excited to get a copy. Previews look gorgeous.
Solaris by Stanisław Lem - Deluxe Edition
The Deluxe Edition of Solaris by Stanislaw Lem, translated by Bill Johnston, illustrated by Matt Murphy, letterpress-printed, & bound by Ludlow Bookbinders.
conversationtreepress.com
Siliconemelons
Naxxramas 1.0 Raider
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Your normal white glue will work in general, mix it up a bit and it will be better - if your just trying to fix it roughly and not seeking perfection - as posted above the interwebs can guide you
Noodleface
A Mod Real Quick
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It's all done.
I dyed the wood, did 20 coats of Tru oil. Poly on the head to bury the logo. Definitely a labor of love with this one. It is far from perfect.
I dyed the wood, did 20 coats of Tru oil. Poly on the head to bury the logo. Definitely a labor of love with this one. It is far from perfect.
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So this is more story time than anything lol. But I had to go the carpentry shop for my job today. It was built in the mid 60s. They still have all the original tools. They got a rockwell delta tablesaw with like a 6ft x 6ft cast iron table. An 8ft x 18" jointer. The old I want to saw 18" or 24" radial arm saw. The standing belt sander had a motor the size of my torso. Monster 24" band saw. And two beast ass drill presses. Everything was the huge solid cast iron post ww2 tools. It was so cool. I didn't take pics cause I didn't want to be a weirdo lol. But I will next time I think.
I was 6 flavors of jelly lol
I was 6 flavors of jelly lol
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