Captain Suave
Caesar si viveret, ad remum dareris.
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Fuck sanding. I finish everything with a plane, spokeshave, or knife. If that limits my work, so be it.
Woodworking
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Siliconemelons
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Any nice finishing recommendations for Honduran Mahogany.
Some finishing forum recommended below:
Some finishing forum recommended below:
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Shellac and tung oil are great choices for walnut.
I second shellac on mahogany. It brings out the chatoyance of the grain beautifully. It's also easy to apply and repair. It's just easily damaged by solvents.
Tung oil, linseed oil were also used when mahogany furniture was popular.
Siliconemelons
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Thanks, that is what I am going to try- because as you said, it brings out the pattern.
I was not planning on doing any stain or coloring - but on shellac there is an amber and clear - its just annoying paying 15$ just to try a finish.
Does as that guy said work, do the oil, then shellac on top right after?
Is all shellac "food safe"? I have a chunk of butcherblock I want to laser and give as a charcuterie platter- figure while I have th bug poop finish, I could use it on that.
The piece I am doing in mahogany should not take any real solvent damage or wear, its a lectern.. a water bottle at most- but mostly moving around and storage.
Captain Suave
Caesar si viveret, ad remum dareris.
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Shellac is basically beetle juice in alcohol, so it should be food safe
Shellac is used as a clear coat on candies, even fruits and vegetables as a preservative during shipping.
Burns
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For the lectern, either clear or amber would work well. Personally, I would sand to a high grit (400) and use clear shellac. If you are using Zinsser sealcoat, I would cut the first 2-3 coats 50/50 with denatured alcohol, then sand lightly again, then 2-3 more coats at full strength, then sand smooth, then apply 1-2 more coats. Finish with wax and steel wool or a grey scotch brite. Classic and beautiful finish.
Shellac is 100% food safe. However, I wouldn't use it for cutting boards. Shellac is a film finish. You want a penetrating finish for cutting boards.
I make my own finish that works well:
4 parts mineral oil (or 100% pure tung oil)
1 part beeswax (white or yellow)
1 part carnauba wax
Heat it up gently until its all liquid. Take it off and away from any heat / flame, then add 1 part food safe citrus solvent.
Apply liberally until it won't soak up any more. Wipe off excess. Let sit for a few days. Wipe & buff.
Barring that, just mineral oil is fine, or commercial butcher block oil is good too. Get mineral oil laxative from the grocery store. Its cheap and food safe. Butcher block oil has wax in it: Amazon.com: Howard Products Butcher Block Conditioner and Oil Food Grade - 12 Fl Oz - Butcher Block Oil Food Grade for Enhanced Wood Care : Health & Household
Hope that helps.
BrutulTM
Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
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I put a 50/50 mix of coconut oil and beeswax on my butcher block countertops. I know mineral oil is safe and everything but the idea of petroleum products on the kitchen counter is just unappealing. People will tell you that the coconut oil will go rancid but I've been doing it for years and haven't had an issue.
Siliconemelons
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The board will be charcuterie only, and whom its going to wont oil it, so thats why I am leaning to the shellac as its more of a permanent finish- putting cheese and salami on it wont scratch and scuff it.
I did the mineral oil on my kitchen countertop butcher block but got lazy and poly’d it, I dont cut or anything on it or directly put food..so.
As for the mahogany lectern, i sanded a board and will be testing finishes. I dont want like super gloss glass shine- but I like when the “3d” of grain shows, and has a natural like feel. At first I was just going to matte or semi-gloss poly it, but then I read about the shellac and making the grain “more 3d”
I did the mineral oil on my kitchen countertop butcher block but got lazy and poly’d it, I dont cut or anything on it or directly put food..so.
As for the mahogany lectern, i sanded a board and will be testing finishes. I dont want like super gloss glass shine- but I like when the “3d” of grain shows, and has a natural like feel. At first I was just going to matte or semi-gloss poly it, but then I read about the shellac and making the grain “more 3d”
Cutlery
Kill All the White People
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I am looking for coffee table legs - that's what this will be. I think probably metal - something I can just screw into the bottom and be done with quick.
I found this site and there's a few options here. Anyone ever know or seen any other options? This is a little too "modern artsy" for my taste, but I'll use it if I have to
flowyline.com
I found this site and there's a few options here. Anyone ever know or seen any other options? This is a little too "modern artsy" for my taste, but I'll use it if I have to
Coffee Table Legs 212 Cleo 16H Modern DIY Furniture
Discover endless creation with customizable 212 Cleo metal coffee table legs, including sleek and sturdy black metal coffee table legs. Check out now!
flowyline.com
Cutlery
Kill All the White People
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Yeah, I'm about done with it. Maybe one more coat - but it gets very glossy with 3. You can see 3 coats on the on the last quarter of the second slab.
I don't hate the legs, but I'm looking for more options before I pick one. This is going to go to my buddy a couple hours away - that way I don't have to look at the imperfections of my first piece very often! Plus, this thing as a gift is something anyone is going to love, no matter what imperfections.
Intrinsic
Person of Whiteness
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I am looking for coffee table legs - that's what this will be. I think probably metal - something I can just screw into the bottom and be done with quick.
I found this site and there's a few options here. Anyone ever know or seen any other options? This is a little too "modern artsy" for my taste, but I'll use it if I have to
Coffee Table Legs 212 Cleo 16H Modern DIY Furniture
Discover endless creation with customizable 212 Cleo metal coffee table legs, including sleek and sturdy black metal coffee table legs. Check out now!
I would be kind of nervous with those and the ability for the table to rack side-to-side without any sort of cross support. Even the underside view doesn't show anything. May not be an issue but was the first thing I checked b/c I've had that problem in the past.
I guess there's a couple of install options with them flared out or in depending on your setup, and maybe the base that attaches to the underside is wide enough it provides some support? Dunno, still freaks me out.
Soygen
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Search for RAMPA brand inserts. Those are the ones that the dude from Blacktail Studios use, and that dude works with very heavy tables/slabs.
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