Just an fyi for those of you in Boston area. Keep an eye on Facebook marketplace. Client of mine just bought a brownstone and the people living there are moving to elderly housing and the husband is leaving about 20 or 30k worth of woodworking tools which my client is going to put on marketplace. Old dude has 3 lathes, a delta band saw delta pull arm saw, delta table saw ~40 or so bar clamps 5 ladders, scaffolding etc. I was at the site going over the proposed new water and fire pipe stuff and and the cients general contractor with us there and i were gushing over the tools. Closing is probably mid to late feb so it will go on marketplace after
Woodworking
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BrutulTM
Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
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Question for the finishing experts out there. I have cherry butcherblock countertops in my kitchen. I oil them from time to time with a mixture of beeswax and coconut oil. I have a leftover chunk that I want to put on a bathroom vanity in my basement. I want the color of the ones in the kitchen, but I don't want to have to worry about water being left on it and staining it. It's a basement bathroom that kids are going to be using and that's just too likely to get water left on it. What I'm thinking is I'll oil it to get the color I want, then put a few coats of polyurethane on it to make it waterproof. Does that seem reasonable? I'm thinking I don't want to use the beeswax because it might keep the polyurethane from adhering. Could I just oil it with coconut oil or mineral oil or something and then coat it with polyurethane? Or is there some other method that might work better?
Intrinsic
Person of Whiteness
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I'd be concerned with standard poly that various bathroom items like toothpaste, mouthwash, products, steam, moisture, etc would eat away and get into the vanity. And also think you're right about the wax part.
Have you looked at Waterlox? Waterlox Coatings Corporation it may work in your situation and be better suited.
You could also consider something like Total Boat spar finish might work? Although when I've used it, it doesn't harden like an epoxy and may not be as durable (you could use a Total Boat tabletop epoxy). There are spray finishes that might work but not sure if you can DIY that.
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BrutulTM
Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
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Thanks. I want to bring out the red color of the cherry. I don't mind if it gets darker, as long as it stays reddish. Maybe I'll get a little can and test it on some scraps. Do you think the polycrylic over mineral oil or something similar would work, aside from whatever limitations the final finish has for waterproofing?
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Mineral oil does not dry out. It will cause whatever topcoat you put over it to fail. If youre going to poly over any oil, Tung oil or teak oil or boiled linseed oil are your best bets. You will have to wait at least 48 hours (preferably 7 days) when topcoating oil finish.
If you don't want to use waterlox, the next best bet is an oil based marine varnish. Leave the poly out of it. Its not necessary.
If you don't want to use waterlox, the next best bet is an oil based marine varnish. Leave the poly out of it. Its not necessary.
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Cutlery
Kill All the White People
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BrutulTM
Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
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Cutlery
Kill All the White People
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It's also absolutely disgustingly powerful odor
I put it on right there - in the garage, with the 2 car door open, and it was so brutal I had to go in the house.
So you're fucked until you can put it on outside.
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It may burn off some nose hairs, but it's nothing like spraying conversion varnish or catalyzed lacquer. You'll be fine!