Desktop Computers

Jovec

Jovec

?
748
293
The top closed loop coolers do beat out air by a few C, and you won't have issues with RAM clearance orblocking of the first PCIe slot (in some cases, like the NH-D15). I'm still partial to air since I don't have to worry about leaks. I'm also partial to Noctua for air coolers. They can be pricey, but come with a ton of accessories, top quality fans and TIM, and very secure mounting. I used to buy $50 coolers (when $50 was top end) and then spend another $25 replacing the fan with something like a GT. I'm sure I'd do the same if I ventured into CLC given what the consensus is on the included fans (bad and loud, or simply loud), adding another $50-$100 to the cost.

Temps today have a lot of variables to consider. SB has the IHS soldered on (better temps) as do the -E lines. IB and HW use TIM, so worse temps. HW DC uses slightly better TIM. P95 temps can vary whether the AVX version is used or not with HW, but not for SB and IB. Motherboard manufacturers are automatically over-volting (typically for MCE) and can push temps higher than expected.
 
Joeboo

Joeboo

Molten Core Raider
8,157
140
Yeah, if you are min-maxing your budget vs performance, I don't know that shelling out $100+ for a pre-made water cooling solution that only drops you a couple degrees over a $30 air cooler is the best investment of your money. I mainly did it for motherboard clearance issues and noise issues almost moreso than actual cooling. If you're on a pretty tight budget though, you can definitely get more bang for your buck elsewhere with that extra $75+
 
Joeboo

Joeboo

Molten Core Raider
8,157
140
Jeez, I hadn't ordered anything from Newegg in a while, they sure do like to send emails. 11 emails now in less than 24 hours
YXRDLNz.jpg
 
Brand

Brand

Molten Core Raider
1,159
313
Ok...I'm not that savvy with Desktop builds. I built my current system 5 years ago...I'm not afraid to build a system. I just need to figure out what is best for my wants.

I'm willing to spend up to 2k on a build. I want a machine that is going to run all the current and future games for the next 3 years (at least), plus all the standard stuff - browse, email, word processing, etc. Once I get some guidance...I've got a MicroCenter, TigerDirect, and other stores all within 10minutes. I'll probably just go buy it all and put it together. I'm not opposed to buying something already put together, but there is usually a huge price attached to that.

Can I get some advice on what I should do in that price range (and yes...I'm sure I'll end up spending more as I start to see all the cool shit.)
 
Joeboo

Joeboo

Molten Core Raider
8,157
140
Definitely no need to go over $2K. The CPU/motherboard/RAM/Hard drive choices that you make now can all easily be fine for 5+ years on a sub $2K build. The kicker is going to be the video card. Even a top of the line card ($500+) is going to suck ass in 3 years. You almost can't future proof a video card for 3 years. You could spend $1000 just on the video card, and it *might* get you close to that 3 year mark, but its going to be dragging pretty bad by that point.

I highly recommend just resining to the fact that you are going to buy a nice video card now for $300-$400, and you're going to want to spend that much again on a new video card in 1.5-2 years, so adjust your budget accordingly.

Here's a good starting point IMHO:
PCPartPicker part list/Price breakdown by merchant

CPU:Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor($236.86 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler:Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler($29.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard:Asus Z97-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard($143.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory:Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory($144.99 @ Newegg)
Storage:Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive($219.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card:EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card($349.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply:SeaSonic G-750 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply($109.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System:Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit)($97.46 @ OutletPC)
Total:$1312.39
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-18 21:00 EST-0500

I didn't include a case, because I think cases are purely personal preference on size, color, features, etc. I also included a Nvidia 970 video card, as its a great value at $350, and it will run everything great at 1080p, 1440p. or 1600p resolutions for the next year and a half or so. At that point you'll be buying a new ~$300 video card that smokes this 970. I also didn't include storage Hard Drives, because you may have some you already use, and everyone needs varying amounts of media storage. A 500GB SSD is going to be enough room for your OS, web browsers, MS Office, and half a dozen games installed at any given time.

Also, Microcenter right now has Intel i5 4670K processors for $179.99 if you can find a store that has them in-stock, so you can definitely save some money getting your CPU and Mobo at Microcenter.

tl;dr, spend $1500 now, be happy for 2 years, invest another $300-$400 in a new video card at that point and be happy for another 2 years.

There you go, roughly $2000 and you're set for 4 years
 
Joeboo

Joeboo

Molten Core Raider
8,157
140
Jysin

Jysin

Ahn'Qiraj Raider
6,286
4,050
joeboo_sl said:
Definitely no need to go over $2K. The CPU/motherboard/RAM/Hard drive choices that you make now can all easily be fine for 5+ years on a sub $2K build. The kicker is going to be the video card. Even a top of the line card ($500+) is going to suck ass in 3 years. You almost can't future proof a video card for 3 years. You could spend $1000 just on the video card, and it *might* get you close to that 3 year mark, but its going to be dragging pretty bad by that point.

I highly recommend just resining to the fact that you are going to buy a nice video card now for $300-$400, and you're going to want to spend that much again on a new video card in 1.5-2 years, so adjust your budget accordingly.

Here's a good starting point IMHO:
PCPartPicker part list/Price breakdown by merchant

CPU:Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor($236.86 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler:Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler($29.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard:Asus Z97-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard($143.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory:Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory($144.99 @ Newegg)
Storage:Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive($219.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card:EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card($349.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply:SeaSonic G-750 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply($109.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System:Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit)($97.46 @ OutletPC)
Total:$1312.39
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-18 21:00 EST-0500

I didn't include a case, because I think cases are purely personal preference on size, color, features, etc. I also included a Nvidia 970 video card, as its a great value at $350, and it will run everything great at 1080p, 1440p. or 1600p resolutions for the next year and a half or so. At that point you'll be buying a new ~$300 video card that smokes this 970. I also didn't include storage Hard Drives, because you may have some you already use, and everyone needs varying amounts of media storage. A 500GB SSD is going to be enough room for your OS, web browsers, MS Office, and half a dozen games installed at any given time.

Also, Microcenter right now has Intel i5 4670K processors for $179.99 if you can find a store that has them in-stock, so you can definitely save some money getting your CPU and Mobo at Microcenter.

tl;dr, spend $1500 now, be happy for 2 years, invest another $300-$400 in a new video card at that point and be happy for another 2 years.

There you go, roughly $2000 and you're set for 4 years
Click to expand...
Solid advice.
 
Springbok

Springbok

Karen
<Gold Donor>
9,056
12,684
So I bought that R9 290 a few weeks ago I guess now... and when I tried to install it, the god damned monitor wouldn't turn on/connect. Plugged in the old video card (6850) and it worked perfectly fine. After a bit of research, I realized my 4+ year old mobo probably wasn't compatible with the new graphics cards. One thing lead to another, and before I knew it I was essentially "building" my first pc. Here's what I bought:

Amazon.com: Cooler Master Hyper T4 CPU Cooler with 4 Direct Contact Heatpipes RR-T4-18PK-R1: Computers Accessories

Amazon.com: AMD FD8350FRHKBOX FX-8350 FX-Series 8-Core Black Edition Processor: Electronics

Amazon.com: ASUS M5A99FX PRO R2.0 AM3+ AMD 990FX SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard: Computers Accessories

Amazon.com: Corsair Carbide Series SPEC-01 Mid Tower Gaming Case CC-9011050-WW: Computers Accessories

Amazon.com: ASUS Graphics Cards R9290-DC2OC-4GD5: Computers Accessories

I kept my 2 SSD's and my 12gb ram, wiped the one SSD and reinstalled windows - oc'd that processor to 4.4ghz and after spending an afternoon dicking with it - finally got it all up and running. Was pretty cool putting it all together actually, not sure why I've been scared to do it for so long. Spent much more on the card than any other piece, as it appears CPU's aren't as worthwhile an investment as the GPU and so far, this thing absolutely smokes my old i5 2400k w/6850 gfx card. Put in some new fans as well (though they are loud as fuck, not sure how to fix that) and I'm good to go. Cheers for all the advice on the card!
 
Ichu

Ichu

Molten Core Raider
845
278
I believe the i5-2400k outperforms the 8350 in games. Your boost likely just came from the 290.
 
Fadaar

Fadaar

That guy
10,534
11,501
Silence_sl said:
Anyone have good luck with canned water coolers? Like this:Amazon.com: Cooler Master Seidon 240M - PC CPU Liquid Water Cooling System, All-In-One Kit with 240mm Radiator and 2 Fans: Computers Accessories

I need something to cool a 5820k, this look decent. Actually, this one is 7c cooler than air at my target OC. Are these things loud or problematic to use?
Click to expand...
I really like the Corsair h100i I have. Got my i7-5820k clocked from 3.3 GHz up to 4.4 no problem, idles around 35C and doesn't get too hot when under full load. Though to be honest I haven't really pushed this system yet.

Jysin_sl said:
I have the H100i and swapped the stock fans for some quality ones. Pushes more CFM at half the dB. Unless it was pump noise? In which, I have never heard mine unless I stick my head inside the case. Fantastic piece of kit.

My 4770k on that cooler has been running at 4.5GHz for what is going on a couple years now 24/7.
Click to expand...
Which fans did you get? I'm looking at getting a pair of 120's for the radiator and another 140 as a case fan. Corsair 800D case, the 140 would be pulling air in from the back of the case and the 120's would be shooting air up and out.
 
Joeboo

Joeboo

Molten Core Raider
8,157
140
Got my EVGA Superclocked 970 yesterday. Benchmarks almost exactly the same as my SLI 660Tis,

Tomb Raider = 61 FPS at 1440p on ultra settings(3GB SLI 660Tis were 64 FPS)
Bioshock Infinite = 76 FPS at 1440p on ultra settings(3GB SLI 660Tis were 75FPS)
Shadows of Mordor = 73 FPS at 1440p on ultra settings (3GB SLI 660Tis were ~55, maybe the RAM makes a difference here, also I was forcing SLI, don't think there was a default SLI profile, so I'm sure it wasnt optimized well at all, being forced into SLI)

so I'm happy with it overall. Same performance if a game supported SLI before, WAY better performance (basically double) in games that didn't support SLI(Wolfenstein, Dead Rising 3, and basically every indie game ever, etc). Seems like only the big, AAA title releases support SLI really well anymore :/
 
Evernothing

Evernothing

Bronze Baronet of the Realm
4,687
8,500
ACX 2.0 cooler I assume?

I was leaning towards a ASUS STRIX model, but the EVGA is cheaper I think.
 
Joeboo

Joeboo

Molten Core Raider
8,157
140
Yes, that ACX 2.0 cooler is amazing. It's insanely quiet, and even pushing the card through multiple benchmarks and overclocking it just a bit (+50mhz core clock, +350mhz memory clock) the fan never had to go over about 30% RPMs, and the card stayed at about 72-73 degrees celsius, and was outputting zero audible noise. My dual 660Tis(one with a stock blower, and 1 with aftermarket dual fans) were much, much louder. they usually had to ramp up to more in the 50-75% max RPM range to stay that cool.

When I first installed the card and was running a benchmark or two with my case still sitting open, I had to actually stick my hand in there to see if I could feel the fans pushing any air, I couldn't hear anything, I thought they weren't working or something, lol.
 
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