Desktop Computers

Lanx said:

you gonna re-use your old case?

you gonna use the included wraith cooler on the 3600?

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I’ll pick a case once all the parts are chosen, I’m not tied to anything specific. And yes? Is there any reason I shouldn’t?

I took a long break from PC building, and things have changed a lot. To put it in perspective, I built my last PC when Diablo 3 came out. I ended up taking it out and overclocked my 2600k to 4.5, replaced a 460gt with a 5500xt video card, and added a 500gb SSD. When I asked here I was told it probably wouldn't run something like the new COD, so I was a little surprised to be able to average over 60fps in COD Cold War and Warzone. Is the 2600k really still somewhat viable?

How much would I realistically gain with a new budget gaming build? Given my current situation I would prefer to go extreme budget for a while, so maybe holding out is the best solution for now unless there is a budget upgrade that will give a huge bump.

I appreciate the replies, as no one has commented on the guts I’ll consider them to be decent picks. Next step is to find a case with good fan/cooling support and USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C . If the Wraith cooler is noisy I’ll probably be replacing it in short order. I also need to finalize a good 2060 variant, any recommendations?

Witless said:

My current problem is picking a good RTX 2060 variant (for possible ray tracing)

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You want a Nvidia 3000 series for ray tracing. Nvidia 2000 and Radeon 6800 are first gen and lacking performance.

jooka said:

Not sure what your budget for a case is but the bequiet 500dx is by the best $100 I've ever spent on a case and has the things you mention.

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I've been looking at that case to toss some old hardware into and get a feel for BEQuiets's quality (or lack thereof), and I really wish it had more than 1 front panel usb 2/3. Instead I am leaning towards a Fractal Define 7 Compact (1 type C, 2 USB 2.0, 2 USB3.0, no argb), although it's not really an "air-flow" case with the door. Door could always be opened or removed I supposed.

Should complete the build Saturday when I pickup the 3070 I just bought from Best Buy. I added an extra 1tb hynix ssd for more game drive space. I've had the monitor from a sale a few months back. It suits my needs for now. I like the case and get why it's popular. It's not as Fancy as some of the others, but it was much easier to build in than the last budget case I bought.


PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/NG8768

CPU: Intel Core i7-10700K 3.8 GHz 8-Core Processor ($369.99 @ Newegg)

CPU Cooler: Corsair iCUE H100i RGB PRO XT 75 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($119.99 @ Amazon)

Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING Z490-PLUS ATX LGA1200 Motherboard ($179.99 @ Amazon)

Memory: Team T-FORCE DARK 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL18 Memory ($134.99 @ Newegg)

Storage: Samsung 970 Evo 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($139.99 @ Amazon)

Storage: SK hynix Gold S31 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($104.99 @ Amazon)

Storage: Seagate BarraCuda 4 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($89.99 @ Newegg)

Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 3070 8 GB XC3 ULTRA GAMING Video Card ($895.00 @ Amazon)

Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ B&H)

Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($124.99 @ Best Buy)

Monitor: Gigabyte G32QC 31.5" 2560x1440 165 Hz Monitor

sukik said:

Memory: Team T-FORCE DARK 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL18 Memory ($134.99 @ Newegg)

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We are talking a couple percent (probably 0-3% depending on app/game) , but 3200 CL18 is leaving a bit of performance on the table. Newegg has some 3200 cl16 for $100-$120. 3200 CL14/15 and 3600 CL16 are a bit of a price jump.

Jovec said:

We are talking a couple percent (probably 0-3% depending on app/game) , but 3200 CL18 is leaving a bit of performance on the table. Newegg has some 3200 cl16 for $100-$120. 3200 CL14/15 and 3600 CL16 are a bit of a price jump.

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It put the wrong Team ram on there. The stuff I bought is 16 3200. Got it for 104 on sale over the holidays. Holding off on doing much tweaking until I get another fan and gpu in place.

Jovec said:

You want a Nvidia 3000 series for ray tracing. Nvidia 2000 and Radeon 6800 are first gen and lacking performance.



I've been looking at that case to toss some old hardware into and get a feel for BEQuiets's quality (or lack thereof), and I really wish it had more than 1 front panel usb 2/3. Instead I am leaning towards a Fractal Define 7 Compact (1 type C, 2 USB 2.0, 2 USB3.0, no argb), although it's not really an "air-flow" case with the door. Door could always be opened or removed I supposed.

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RT is vastly overrated - id hope people are not building machines based around turning on RT and not pure performance. Pure performance the 6800XT smashes on the 3080 and 3090 in alot of situations especially in 1080p and 1440p.

RT is still in its infancy on both AMD and Nvidia and until they can both fix the incredible hit thats taken it hardly matters. 3000 series stil takes about the same % hit but since its overall performance is better in general it ofcourse translates into higher FPS in RT. However for the 1%? of games that support RT it makes very little sense to build a rig around a feature like that. DLSS is in somewhat the same boat as its in even less games than RT, however in the titles it does work on it does provide a nice benefit.

FWIW, I've $250+ in Uni Fans and they are disappointing. They aren't reporting fan speed correctly to the mobo. One suggested "fix" is some rando file on the LL website that doesn't solve my problem (AacSetup_loki_1.0.9.0.7z, wants to install "WD_Black D50). Another solution is to use a splitter to get reporting (but not speed control). Just like every Lian Li product I've owned (well north of $2k) they look great on paper but as you spend more and more time with their products they are just always a bit wrong.

As an example, the cable header used at the end of the daisy chain attaches in one direction, which might be fine for most installs, but LL should include one header in the master kit that has the attached cables running the opposite way, to avoid 180 bend in locations that call for that.

Back to Noctua.

Jovec said:

FWIW, I've $250+ in Uni Fans and they are disappointing. They aren't reporting fan speed correctly to the mobo. One suggested "fix" is some rando file on the LL website that doesn't solve my problem (AacSetup_loki_1.0.9.0.7z, wants to install "WD_Black D50). Another solution is to use a splitter to get reporting (but not speed control). Just like every Lian Li product I've owned (well north of $2k) they look great on paper but as you spend more and more time with their products they are just always a bit wrong.

As an example, the cable header used at the end of the daisy chain attaches in one direction, which might be fine for most installs, but LL should include one header in the master kit that has the attached cables running the opposite way, to avoid 180 bend in locations that call for that.

Back to Noctua.

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The comforting brown welcomes you back.

Leadsalad said:

The comforting brown welcomes you back.

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jooka said:

I really like the design of them but a 60+% markup on a fan was just to much for a small amount of convenience.

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I was lucky enough to get them at "stock" prices. 6x120 at $25+$5 shipping/ea off Amazon and the 140 kit for $70 with a 3rd 140 for $70/$30 respectively from Newegg.

MSRP for Uni's aren't too bad compared to the competition, but it's hard to beat this fan in value (and they beat the Uni 120s in CFM and SP). I have always thought Noctua fans were fairly priced when you consider everything that came with them along with their performance and durability. That line of thinking is changing a little simply because I have bought so many of them over the years that I have all the extension cables, LNA, ULNA, splitters, anti-vibration pads, etc that I will ever need.