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Picasso3

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Zapatta said:
Super common, tapers will tell you a drywall finish is smooth not flat. Wood framing always has big anomalies as well. If you want super straight flat walls you have to frame with steel and run 12-16 ft board 5/8in or better w/ no but joints. Only time you see that is when its a commercial space. and you still end up with every corner not being a true square. The saying goes ... Putty and Paint make a Carpenter what he Aint.

It looks good, nice lighting, good flooring choice.

I often take the flooring and mill it to cap the top of the stair rails.
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Do you glue it together or what?

I considered getting oak boards for the top of the rails and staining to match floor but ended up with mdf because oak is really expensive and i thought it may make the rails pop when i really don't want them to pop.

I used 16' primed mdf baseboards, I'm getting over my hatred for mdf.
 
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Picasso3

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Zapatta said:
Thats how it goes, building materials come in increments of 8 feet. You would have to do all kind of funky cuts and a ton of waste to go 8 feet 8 inches to wrap the outside. Anything off the shelf you install in the interior was taken that math into account.
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Just framed it out with double stacked 2x4s on the sides, could have just spent an extra 11 dollars and gotten the next length up.

I agree it's done, but i think your guy fucked up, probably didn't communicate that caveat to the guy doing the work
 
Zapatta

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Yeah I will epoxy a couple runs of the flooring side by side and rip a couple strips and glue them on the under side perimeter so I can run a router around top and bottom to 'bullnose' it.

I hate MDF, its garbage, I buy milled paint ready poplar for trim. More spendy but its wood and can handle a vacuum cleaner bumping into it for 25 yrs.
 
Zapatta

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Picasso3 said:
Just framed it out with double stacked 2x4s on the sides, could have just spent an extra 11 dollars and gotten the next length up.

I agree it's done, but i think your guy fucked up, probably didn't communicate that caveat to the guy doing the work
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Oh it can be done, but any contractor in the world when asked to build an 8 x 16 building is going to by the outside. Having the interior be those dimensions is a very, very unusual request. Hator is never gonna miss those 8 inches on the inside, no one ever does. Unless he is trying to store plywood in it the short way.
 
Hatorade

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Progress!
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Caliane

Caliane

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Gravel said:
Wasn't really sure where to post this, but I need some help.

Today I noticed that one of my circuits wasn't working. The breaker isn't tripped. There are no GFI on the circuit. Just 4 outlets (1 outdoor plug, and then 3 bathroom plugs in two different bathrooms). I opened up all of the outlets and none of the hots had any power going to them.

I've got a Fluke Voltage tester (lights up on hot wires). I'm not sure if it works by just pressing against a breaker (since there might be so much power it picks up on everything?) but none of my circuits seemed bad (I'm not 100% sure which circuit it is, because the person who marked them is an idiot).

Not sure what else there is to check. FoH is my last stop before calling an electrician.
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ever figure this out? My first guess would be.. you have a GFI you are forgetting about. I mean, your BATH and OUTSIDE don't have one? Aren't they required by code on both?
 
Hatorade

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Picasso3 said:
No sheathing? That's a new one on me
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The plan:
Structure to be built with wood framing on existing slab include exterior hardi-plank boards , house wrap weather-proof membrane, R13 batt insulation for walls and R30 insulation for ceiling area, interior 1/2in drywall.

Should you sheath on top of that? This is going to be an office with A/C and all the comforts of home minus the plumbing.
 
Hatorade

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His response on the bracing:
Good morning. We are doing staggered bracing instead of diagonal brace. This gives you more structural support than the diagonal brace and keeps the 2X4's intact as opposed to notching to make room for the diagonal brace. It's a little bit more work and material but we end up with a sturdier structure.
 
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Picasso3

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mkopec said:
Shit, I wish I could do that. I would do it myself. In my city they require a rat wall going down at least 2 feet for any structures. This adds so much more scope and work tot he project its crazy. I was quoted $1500 for a 8x10 slab with rat wall.
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Anywhere it gets cold you should do this anyway.
 
Hatorade

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mkopec said:
Shit, I wish I could do that. I would do it myself. In my city they require a rat wall going down at least 2 feet for any structures. This adds so much more scope and work tot he project its crazy. I was quoted $1500 for a 8x10 slab with rat wall.
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Thats not bad, best I could do for my 8x10 basic slab was $1200.
 
mkopec

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YEah but still it sucks, for a fucking tool shed, who gives a fuck. there are other ways to get critters not to dig under your slab.
 
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