Home Improvement

lurkingdirk

lurkingdirk

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I had a similar situation in my kitchen, though without all the mold. I have a full, insulated basement below. What I did is run duct work right from that hole to the kickplate of my cabinets, and sealed it like crazy, then did spray foam insulation around it. No air leaks below the cabinets now at all, and I think that would be a good solution for you, too.
 
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Vinen

Vinen

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I would talk to an expert. Mold is nothing to fuck around with. Doesn't look severe ( I've seen much worse when buying houses in the Boston area) but get someone who knows what needs to be done. Don't want it cropping up again or getting your family sick. ( I also like having someone to blame. Even if it doesn't help)
 
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Picasso3

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Dandai said:
I was under the house yesterday getting ready to reroute some flex duct so my shop door doesn’t swing into it and discovered that all of my under cabinet vents (kitchen and bathrooms) have extreme condensation issues. Each had at least 1sq ft of rotten subfloor and when I demo’d the cabinet floor (laminated MDF) to get to the subfloor I found the whole underside (MDF) was covered in thick white mold.

I immediately took the moldy MDF outside to give it a lethal dose of radiation and got to work on wiping down the subfloor and drying it out with fans and a dehumidifier. I happen to have a moisture meter so I continually checked how well the subfloor was drying out. It went from over 50% in the worst areas to about 16% in a couple hours, but the areas where the subfloor is clearly rotten underneath (not visible from the top) aren’t dropping below that 18-16% moisture range.

I’m reasonably confident that the root cause of the issue is the static air pressure under the cabinets was high enough to force cold air down through the space between the vent and the subfloor. When that cold air met with the super humid hot air in my vented crawlspace it condensed on the subfloor and the insulation held all that moisture against the wood, further compounding the problem.

Looking for feedback on my current plan of action:
  1. Properly seal the edges of the vents with spray foam/gap filler so air won’t be pushed down into the crawlspace any more.
  2. Cut out the rotted sections of subfloor and replace them.
  3. Replace the moldy laminated MDF (possibly replace the whole vanity)
  4. Increase the size of the vent grill opening so there isn’t as much static pressure building up under the cabinet/vanity.
What do you guys think? Got any experience with this lurkingdirk lurkingdirk ? P Picasso3 if you’re still lurking :)

Initial discovery:
View attachment 173631

Pre-cleanup
View attachment 173632

Post-cleanup and drying (white residue is dried concrobium)
View attachment 173633
Click to expand...

I think 4 is your biggest problem, you're cooling that space to the point that it's even causing condensation on the top.
I'd build a box using half inch xps & foil tape (or ductboard since xps is probably a fire code violation) to contain the conditioned air and channel it to the front openings. Basically a full insulated box with an open front and a hole the size of your register cut in the bottom. Also, Either your floor should be insulated or you should have a conditioned crawl space, so i'd look into that as well and probably use the "commercial" spray foam kits. Fiberglass is shit against the underside of floor (use the rods: Simpson Strong-Tie 16 in. Insulation Support (100-Qty)-IS16-R100 - The Home Depot).

Don't know how much i'd worry about tearing everything out, everyone likes to go nuclear but i've always had good luck just fixing the cause.
 
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Picasso3

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lurkingdirk said:
I've just completed creating a 49x83 inch butcher block countertop for my new island. I'm oiling it up, and I'm so excited about it. I'll post pictures at some point, but this is awesome.

I got "carpenters grade" butcher block because I liked the look of it with the knots and bits in it, but it wasn't square by a mile. After biscuit-joining it, there was an (to me) unacceptable gap between the two pieces. I routed out a 3/4" trough and glued in a new strip above and below the biscuits. It's incredibly strong, and even though I have a 21" over-hang, it's secure. I actually jumped up and down on it, and it's solid. No posts, just cantilever iron brackets. I can fit six stools around it.

I am slowly redoing the whole kitchen. I went from virtually no counterspace to a huge island, and more. My kitchen is shaping up to be awesome. Working now on the pantry that will be on either side of the fridge. 30 inches on either side, 20 inches deep. That's a lot of pantry.

I'd post pictures now, but I took them on my iPhone, and I don't know how to remove the personal data that would allow you fartheads to dox me.
Click to expand...

I've used
Howard BBC012 Butcher Block Conditioner, 12-Ounce

but wouldn't be surprised it it were an overpriced concoction
 
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Haus

Haus

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From forever ago... the saga of my garage continues. I was going to replace the old water damaged siding. Pulled a couple pieces off to discover the whole building was leaning 3 degrees to one side. Was going to replace the back door on it and pulled the frame off to discover carpenter ant infestation which destroyed a good bit of framing. Here's the progress. so far.

Spoilered for size.
First a party of fence posts and come alongs....
IMG_20180819_132339[1].jpg

IMG_20180819_131825[1].jpg


Then discovering a corner not even touching the slab...

IMG_20180819_125908[1].jpg


With bonus rodent damaged electrical wiring!

Added some emergency bracing to try to hold shit together....

IMG_20180819_135944[1].jpg

And now this weekend I put diagonal braces on the inside of the studs , then temp supports in to raise the roof enough as I cut and repair the framing along the bottom and studs.

Over/under on a garage collapsing on me this weekend?
 
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Picasso3

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your braces, chains, and come alongs are worth more than that building (sorry, i couldn't help myself). Looks a sagging slab that seems to be at best flush with adjacent ground and an untreated 2x4 sill?

you could probably sawzall out the sill and sneak in a treated (for ground contact) one, and jack/shim it right with composite shims. Then sister the studs.

Is there a plywood/mdf floor in there?
 
Erronius

Erronius

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My eyes aren't as good as they used to be, but is there literally a staple INTO the romex in the 2nd pic, by the window?
 
Haus

Haus

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Picasso3 said:
your braces, chains, and come alongs are worth more than that building (sorry, i couldn't help myself). Looks a sagging slab that seems to be at best flush with adjacent ground and an untreated 2x4 sill?

you could probably sawzall out the sill and sneak in a treated (for ground contact) one, and jack/shim it right with composite shims. Then sister the studs.

Is there a plywood/mdf floor in there?
Click to expand...

That is pretty much my plan, I have been preparing for it but still don't look forward to it. Yeah, the building is beat down, but all the estimates I got to tear it down and replace it were stupidly expensive. (~$30k to "do it right", versus I'm estimating around $5k to attempt this level of repair/residing.) I'm going to give this a shot and see if I can get it to somewhat decent. Once I get the pressure treated lumber in for the sill and sister up the studs I've been looking at additional waterproofing to throw on it, then sheath the building with hardiboard. As for the chains, come alongs, etc being worth more, you underestimate the power of coupons and Harbor Freight Tools.

Oh, and have to dig a trench around the whole thing to do a proper termite/ant perimeter treatment, that's going to be a party.

The previous owners took a lot of short cuts which weren't evident when I purchased the property.. so probably on me for not having a more thorough inspection done. I swear the previous siding they put on was done with the building already leaning.

Erronius said:
My eyes aren't as good as they used to be, but is there literally a staple INTO the romex in the 2nd pic, by the window?
Click to expand...

It's a staple that goes completely over the wire, with a white plastic bracket to hold the wire in place. Not too uncommon.
 
Haus

Haus

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Lanx said:
your rot looks like an abandon shed in the woods
Click to expand...

Combination of apparently long term water issues, and carpenter ants.... Apparently it'll do that. But to be honest it's a 20x20 building and a ton of the structure is good.
 
Erronius

Erronius

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Haus said:
It's a staple that goes completely over the wire, with a white plastic bracket to hold the wire in place. Not too uncommon.
Click to expand...

no, bro

I hadn't zoomed in before, but looks like maybe it knicked the sheathing a little. But it also looks like a staple that might have held insulation batting within the pocket.

I did nothing but run romex for years, and this kind of shit is why I don't trust homeowners, and I don't trust other trades. People would be amazed at the shit they can't see inside their walls. It's also why more AHJs are moving towards MC and EMT in homes.


IMG_20180819_135944aonvaonvoafnva.jpg
 
Haus

Haus

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Erronius said:
no, bro

I hadn't zoomed in before, but looks like maybe it knicked the sheathing a little. But it also looks like a staple that might have held insulation batting within the pocket.

I did nothing but run romex for years, and this kind of shit is why I don't trust homeowners, and I don't trust other trades. People would be amazed at the shit they can't see inside their walls. It's also why more AHJs are moving towards MC and EMT in homes.


View attachment 174273
Click to expand...
Good catch sir, I thought you were talking about this one :
IMG_20180819_125908[1].jpg


Which is what that badly placed one above was also at one point apparently. Either way, that whole run is being replaced as part of this and there's no power going to the structure right now. Full wiring redo is after structural repairs, and before new dry wall... The more terrifying part for me was finding all the wire which had insulation removed by rodents...
 
A5150Ylee

A5150Ylee

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Haus said:
... Which is what that badly placed one above was also at one point apparently. Either way, that whole run is being replaced as part of this and there's no power going to the structure right now. Full wiring redo is after structural repairs, and before new dry wall... The more terrifying part for me was finding all the wire which had insulation removed by rodents...
Click to expand...

FYI, if you leave the power on, the rodents won't remove ALL the insulation...
 
Haus

Haus

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A5150Ylee said:
FYI, if you leave the power on, the rodents won't remove ALL the insulation...
Click to expand...

True, but what you saw in those pics was not the worst. I could see metal in several places, and that was with the power on in the building.

Side note on the staple and wire. That was actually one of the staples holding in the previous insulation. It only looked like that because it was partially removed when I pulled the insulation and wasn't ever actually penetrating the wire, so good on that front. heh

Today is building a temp segment of framing I will use to support that corner from the inside while I work on the actual frame. This should get entertaining fast later.
 
GuardianX

GuardianX

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So, I may be doing a Home reno soon and I had a question for any of you guys that may know.

The place I'm looking at is in Texas built 1981, will I need to worry about Asbestos as I am doing reno?

It has popcorn that looks to be peeling from the ceiling in places which concerned me a tad but if it isn't asbestos I plan to scrape that shit off if I am allowed to do so.

As far as I am aware, Asbestos was banned from residential in 1977 but did that include popcorn? My goal is to have a home inspector take a look but Just wondering for sake of conversation and interest.
 
Siliconemelons

Siliconemelons

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I think there are test kits at homedepot and the like, few little tubes you scrape some stuff off into and send it off to a lab.

No one is telling you, you cannot do it...but dont do it...no one here is liable

but for that, all they do is wear masks, spray it down with water to reduce dust/spores and bag it all up.

if it was in the 80's it should be fine...and is it popcorn or stipple? my house was done in stipple - the house next to me was popcorn, late 70s - stipple is essentially a plaster type stuff that is then textured to be little tiny stalagmites that at first glace look like popcorn - yet are not squishy little balls of foam stuff, like popcorn.
 
Lanx

Lanx

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GuardianX said:
So, I may be doing a Home reno soon and I had a question for any of you guys that may know.

The place I'm looking at is in Texas built 1981, will I need to worry about Asbestos as I am doing reno?

It has popcorn that looks to be peeling from the ceiling in places which concerned me a tad but if it isn't asbestos I plan to scrape that shit off if I am allowed to do so.

As far as I am aware, Asbestos was banned from residential in 1977 but did that include popcorn? My goal is to have a home inspector take a look but Just wondering for sake of conversation and interest.
Click to expand...
do it!
iZa2LDW.jpg
 
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C

Captain Suave

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GuardianX said:
Asbestos.
Click to expand...

Cursory research shows asbestos was taken out of building materials in the 50's and patching and joint compounds in the 70's. You're probably ok. Testing isn't that expensive, though, if you're worried. Probably worth doing. I did some work on mesothelioma epidemiology and you definitely want no part of that.

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