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Lanx

Lanx

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lurkingdirk said:
You can make do with that. It's not a bad saw for light duty work. You might also consider getting a cheapy table saw. Long cuts always come out straighter and better with a table saw. A combination table saw/compound mitre saw is fantastic - you can do almost anything.

However, if you're going to try to cut long stretches with a circular saw, you might consider getting something like this:

Click to expand...
actually, maybe i just got for a table saw? it'd be good if i wanted to install crown moulding right?
 
lurker

lurker

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Lanx said:
actually, maybe i just got for a table saw? it'd be good if i wanted to install crown moulding right?
Click to expand...
I think a chopsaw would be better for shelving or crown molding. Lots of cross cutting when doing those projects. That’s what chop saws do best.
 
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Picasso3

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Lanx said:
actually, maybe i just got for a table saw? it'd be good if i wanted to install crown moulding right?
Click to expand...

Amod Amod I've seen a lot of trolling my time but never anything as disgusting as this. In the adult forum no less. Please send a message.
 
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iannis

iannis

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Cutting long straight lines with a circular saw is beyond me. I've known carpenters that could free hand it. MY ones have always been janky.

you can use scrap for guides though, it makes them less janky. A workshop starts to cost money.
 
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Lanx

Lanx

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iannis said:
Cutting long straight lines with a circular saw is beyond me. I've known carpenters that could free hand it. MY ones have always been janky.

you can use scrap for guides though, it makes them less janky. A workshop starts to cost money.
Click to expand...
if i make a line and just followed it with the blade and laser, wouldn't it not be janky cuz after the dig the blade into the wood, wouldn't it kinda naturally be straight cuz of the blade?
 
iannis

iannis

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They tend to pull. It's like driving a car. Lots of little corrections on the wheel to go straight.

a table saw will give a better straight cut. Worth the money if you're cutting more than one little project.
 
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Dandai

Dandai

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Lanx said:
if i make a line and just followed it with the blade and laser, wouldn't it not be janky cuz after the dig the blade into the wood, wouldn't it kinda naturally be straight cuz of the blade?
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As someone whose used a circ saw for several projects but not often enough to get proficient with it, I can't free hand a straight cut to save my life. If you're making long rip cuts, you can get an inexpensive table saw for less than $200. Of course, if you're just looking to do one, maybe two projects, then get a circ saw and make a guide from scrap as Iannis suggested.
 
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Picasso3

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2 tricks changed my circular saw life.

1) use a speed square as guide, especially for short cuts where you can't do trick 2
2) when starting a cut you line up your guide mark on the front and then the saw blade itself. If you get it started straight its hard to fuck up, if you get it started crooked its hard to correct.
 
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Lanx

Lanx

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Dandai said:
As someone whose used a circ saw for several projects but not often enough to get proficient with it, I can't free hand a straight cut to save my life. If you're making long rip cuts, you can get an inexpensive table saw for less than $200. Of course, if you're just looking to do one, maybe two projects, then get a circ saw and make a guide from scrap as Iannis suggested.
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i guess the easiest guide is just to clamp a 2x4 or flat bar(what would be a good thing, are flat metal bars just sold?) and make like a fence huh?

or something like this
 
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Dandai

Dandai

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Lanx said:
i guess the easiest guide is just to clamp a 2x4 or flat bar(what would be a good thing, are flat metal bars just sold?) and make like a fence huh?

or something like this
Click to expand...
yeah, camp a factory edge board (so it's straight) and it's pretty easy to make straight long cuts.
 
GuardianX

GuardianX

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Okay, whose dick do I gotta suck for some Foam Backer at some non retardo prices?

Trying to re-do my guest bath and it seems like foam is a 4 letter word in the DFW area. SOME places have foam backer but the majority

I've looked at HardiBacker and all the process that you have to do with that seems like it is ROUGHLY the same cost as doing something like USG Ultralight DuRock or Kerdi in bulk.

The Kerdi system seems good but then you have to add in the 150 USD waterproof paper tape they sling in order to proof each joint and each puncture.

The system I'm REALLY looking for is GoBoard because it seems the most simple and effective.

You can thank :


for this obsession.

How about it, anyone have any suggestions on going Foam Backer for a surround?

---

Reference:

GoBoard (Lowes "has" it but can't ship to me AND it's literally double the price of Menards...which can't ship to me and isn't in my state)

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Johns-Manv...BOARD-Polyisocyanurate-Backer-Board/999931180

https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...ile-underlayment/90016810/p-1444438920819.htm

Laticrete (No one seems to have this but contractor sites)

HYDRO BAN® Board - LATICRETE

HYDRO BAN Board Waterproof Shower Panel.
 
iannis

iannis

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I have no idea specifically, but generally I do know that small businesses (the contractor style) will have a better selection than plances like Lowes or Home Depot. The corporate chain stores are pushing stuff that they can get in bulk, they can get a deal on, and is popular. Which is great for some things bad for others. You can probably get it special ordered through a smaller retailer. But it'll probably cost. :(

You might even want to email the company that makes the stuff and ask them if they have any retailers in the DFW area. They might have a contact us button somewhere on their page.
 
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GuardianX

GuardianX

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iannis said:
But it'll probably cost. :(

You might even want to email the company that makes the stuff and ask them if they have any retailers in the DFW area. They might have a contact us button somewhere on their page.
Click to expand...

I really wonder about the cost part, I see Menards (Kansas) at a 22 USD per 3x5 and Lowes / Home Depot at a 44 USD per 3x5. That seems like a hell of a margin, maybe it is shipping costs but even the lowes NEXT to the menards has it at 44 per panel.

100% will contact them, it seems like they are pretty active on the social side of things. There are some "Distributors" that carry it in my area, but they may premium me as you say.
 
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Picasso3

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Iannis on the right track. 84 lumber, builders first source are two I know of. Can beat Lowe's on prices for sure.
 
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BrutulTM

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It's definitely possible to free-hand a straight line with a circular saw, but as others have said, it takes practice. I don't think the laser is going to make a ton of difference either but I haven't used one. Those tracks are really cool if you're going to rip a bunch of plywood or something, but for a few cuts I'd just get a 2x4 or a piece of flat steel and use that as a fence with a couple c-clamps.
 
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Picasso3

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Lasers don't help much in my experience because
Lanx said:
i wanna add some shelving and i guess i'll make my life easier by getting a circular saw, anything wrong with this?
Ryobi P506 One+ Lithium Ion 18V 5 1/2 Inch 4,700 RPM Cordless Circular Saw with Laser Guide and Carbide-Tipped Blade (Battery Not Included, Power Tool Only) green full size
428e2f59537e995f3087caeaf4c4b5e3.png


I'm not gonna build a deck so i don't think i need anything fancy, all i want is
1. cordless AND ryobi (thats gonna be my brand cuz of the batteries)
2. laser (i guess it'll help)

I guess a larger blade would allow me to cut faster and deeper?

i got 2 sawhorses (no bench) can i make do with just that to cut?

would some accessories help?

gonna google a circular saw for noobs vid soon.
Click to expand...

Sorry i missed the original post, i have this saw or prob an earlier version -- Unless i'm cutting something less than a half inch I go get my corded saw. Circ saw is one tool I have found that hasn't been too inconvenient to be corded. A small upside to battery is it doesn't have the power to twist in the wood so you can never get off track. If you just want one circular saw i recommend getting 7.25 corded, or if you want to be an american you get 3, a track saw with a finish blade, a 7.25 corded for framing/shitwork/concrete, and the cordless for when you need to trim your pubes.
 
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