Home Improvement

BrutulTM

BrutulTM

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Lanx said:
w
t
f

my angle grinder is the loudest tool i have so far
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I found out the other day that while the sparks from an angle grinder are normally harmless if they're not going in your eyes, it is possible to stand too close to them.

203449


Literally set my shirt on fire.
 
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Dandai

Dandai

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BrutulTM said:
I found out the other day that while the sparks from an angle grinder are normally harmless if they're not going in your eyes, it is possible to stand too close to them.

View attachment 203449

Literally set my shirt on fire.
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Definitely gotta pay attention to what your clothing is made out of if you’re working around sparks. We spin thread out of petroleum products, and as you can imagine, that thread is quite flammable.
 
BrutulTM

BrutulTM

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Dandai said:
Definitely gotta pay attention to what your clothing is made out of if you’re working around sparks. We spin thread out of petroleum products, and as you can imagine, that thread is quite flammable.
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It was a carhartt t-shirt which is mostly cotton but I guess if the sparks are intense enough they can get it burning.
 
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Lanx

Lanx

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Dandai said:
Guys!! I’m so excited that I may finally be getting a proper man’s grip! I’m not enjoying my hands being so sore that they feel arthritic though. Been pressure washing this ugly ass paint off of the brick in front of my building for three days. This is about 12 hours worth (we rented a second pressure washer so we could speed up the actual time to completion).

View attachment 203428

We’re getting messages from strangers on our Facebook page thanking us for fixing the eye sore that was this building lol. We’ve got a scissor lift coming tomorrow and gonna take the paint off all the way up. I think it’s 24 ft at the highest point.
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wrap velcro straps around the pressure washer to turn it on w/o pressing on it.
 
GuardianX

GuardianX

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Erronius said:
They absolutely, 100% have 3 gang metal boxes. Gangable and ungangable, masonry, old work, cut-in, bracket, no bracket, etc etc etc.
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BrutulTM said:
Thomas & Betts 3G4DV-1/2 P27SL4 3 Gang 4X6 Box, 5-13/16-Inch Length by 4-Inch Width by 2-1/8-Inch Depth, Galvanized

51qR6-EfNAL.jpg


You'll want some of these to go with it.

59080a953fb4ac6345fdea82a9e8b83f91215588-small.png


I'm not sure why you're concerned about the plastic one though. You think you flip light switches extra hard or something?
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Well I mean the metal box thing was more a question, if I'm remembering right:

"Will a metal box fare better over time overall than a plastic box if we do things like change out switches when kids break them?"

I think ultimately the question is answered, if I change them out I'll go with plastic with the metal fittings for screwing outlets / switches into them.
 
Erronius

Erronius

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GuardianX said:
Well I mean the metal box thing was more a question, if I'm remembering right:

"Will a metal box fare better over time overall than a plastic box if we do things like change out switches when kids break them?"

I think ultimately the question is answered, if I change them out I'll go with plastic with the metal fittings for screwing outlets / switches into them.
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Personally I like traditional metal boxes myself, but I guess I'm biased.

Yeah, the plastic nail-ons with the tapped-plastic device screwholes are kind of garbage. And if you do have to replace switches/receptacles a few times, they do run risk of stripping out. Then you see people just screw drywall screws in there instead. Definitely a good time to NOT use a cordless and do it by hand, because in my experience you can just (kind of) melt the screw hole out. But electricians do use cordless drills all the time on initial finishes because of speed, and they usually hold up at least through that first time (as long as they don't over-torque)

The plastic boxes with metal inserts are better, I guess, but I'm still not a big fan of plastic overall.

One thing from my POV is when you have to take a new-work box out of the wall completely during a remodel. The plastic is kind of a PITA. I used to take a sawzall and try cutting the nails next to the stud if it was a nail-on, or off the bracket if it was a bracket box. Fiber boxes though used to shatter kind of easy, which I guess was kind of a plus when you're trying to remove boxes. Plus the fiber boxes seemed to be harder to strip out with switches/receptacles.

Metal box removal is a whole 'nother kettle of fish, depending on how they were installed. Metal in plaster and lathe can eat a bowl of dicks, though.

I guess I'd rate them as Metal > Fiber > High end plastic > garbage tier plastic
 
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Siliconemelons

Siliconemelons

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Anyone point me to a surge protector I can use for my washer and dryer?

Had a scare, power Flux 2x and tripped the breaker for dryer, but washer was, what we thought, dead-board- no scree, only a few buttons beeped.

But thankfully after unplugging and letting it rest it came back to life.
 
Dandai

Dandai

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Xadion said:
Anyone point me to a surge protector I can use for my washer and dryer?

Had a scare, power Flux 2x and tripped the breaker for dryer, but washer was, what we thought, dead-board- no scree, only a few buttons beeped.

But thankfully after unplugging and letting it rest it came back to life.
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I’ve not seen a surge protector that would accommodate a washer and dryer but big ern would probably know Erronius Erronius
 
lurker

lurker

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Xadion said:
Anyone point me to a surge protector I can use for my washer and dryer?

Had a scare, power Flux 2x and tripped the breaker for dryer, but washer was, what we thought, dead-board- no scree, only a few buttons beeped.

But thankfully after unplugging and letting it rest it came back to life.
Click to expand...

Perhaps this

LINKY
 
Lanx

Lanx

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A5150Ylee

A5150Ylee

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Dandai said:
Guys!! I’m so excited that I may finally be getting a proper man’s grip! I’m not enjoying my hands being so sore that they feel arthritic though. Been pressure washing this ugly ass paint off of the brick in front of my building for three days. This is about 12 hours worth (we rented a second pressure washer so we could speed up the actual time to completion).

View attachment 203428

We’re getting messages from strangers on our Facebook page thanking us for fixing the eye sore that was this building lol. We’ve got a scissor lift coming tomorrow and gonna take the paint off all the way up. I think it’s 24 ft at the highest point.
Click to expand...

It looks a lot better for sure. Is pressure washing really the best way to remove paint from brick? I would have though a blaster with walnut shell, or soda would have gotten the job done fast and been safe on the bricks.
 
iannis

iannis

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Your need one heavy surge protector.

I've never seen one but I've never looked. I'm sure they make them.
 
Dandai

Dandai

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A5150Ylee said:
It looks a lot better for sure. Is pressure washing really the best way to remove paint from brick? I would have though a blaster with walnut shell, or soda would have gotten the job done fast and been safe on the bricks.
Click to expand...
We’re pretty sure that they’re faux bricks - ie a concrete face that’s shaped and dyed to look like bricks. We also didn’t think pressure washing was a good idea because we thought it was hundred year old masonry. I’m not sure that a soda blaster would be more efficient, but I’m reasonably sure that the cost wouldn’t offset the time saved (if any). We’ve got one pressure washer we’ve borrowed from a friend and rented one along with a scissor lift.

We managed to get this whole vertical strip done today (forgot to take a final picture):

A7E730FA-3EFB-4E4C-B2D8-99281F1A1E32.jpeg
 
Lanx

Lanx

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Dandai said:
We’re pretty sure that they’re faux bricks - ie a concrete face that’s shaped and dyed to look like bricks. We also didn’t think pressure washing was a good idea because we thought it was hundred year old masonry. I’m not sure that a soda blaster would be more efficient, but I’m reasonably sure that the cost wouldn’t offset the time saved (if any). We’ve got one pressure washer we’ve borrowed from a friend and rented one along with a scissor lift.

We managed to get this whole vertical strip done today (forgot to take a final picture):

View attachment 203585
Click to expand...
is this the same place as the insulation of suffocation?
 
Erronius

Erronius

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Either of those surge protectors are probably fine. The Siemens has higher surge current ratings, but /shrug. The Leviton 51120-1 might be more comparable.

These are just MOVs to shunt transient voltage to ground. If you have sketchy power in your neighborhood, are near an industrial area with a lot of inductive motor loads and switching, or a lot of VFD use, then these should help. When it comes to lightning, though, they won't be able to handle a direct strike. The MOVs will just assplode along with everything else.

Even with lower surges, there's always a chance the MOVs will fry and you'll have to replace it.

Make sure to check NEMA ratings if you plan on mounting something outside. Some will be NEMA 1 and you can't install those outdoors. If you plan on mounting inside it doesn't really matter.

Manufacturers have a LOT of specifications when it comes to installing these. A lot gets ignored.

Most call to be put on their own 2-pole or 2ea single pole breakers, with the breaker size capped at the ampacity of the device leads. You aren't supposed to just piggyback onto other circuits/circuit breakers. This guy does exactly that. Do not do this under lugs.

What makes doing this so bad in this case, is that this enclosure LITERALLY has the means to mount a circuit breaker in hit. He has spare spaces. But he chose to to cheat under the lugs anyways.



 
lurker

lurker

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Xadion said:
Yeah I just did a quick goggles and a youtubes- I don't have room in my box to dedicate to a whole home surge after installing my cars plug.

I found a 240 plug in surge that's meant for an RV

www.walmart.com

Surge Guard 44260 Entry Level Portable Surge Protector - 30 Amp - Walmart.com

Arrives by Wed, Feb 21 Buy Surge Guard 44260 Entry Level Portable Surge Protector - 30 Amp at Walmart.com
www.walmart.com
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I'm pretty sure that 30amp surge protector you linked is 110v. RV 240v is 50 amp and will have 4 connectors.
 
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