Home Improvement

brekk

Dancing Dino Superstar
<Bronze Donator>
2,191
1,746
a few of us like this guys channel, no nonesense good stuff, this one is about pouring a concrete slab

Got into watching his videos. Pretty good stuff.

However... he had one using a masonry saw to cut stones for a retention wall with no hearing or eye protection. He acknowledged his lack of protection and went on to explain hes never been injured in years of work and that he'll take productivity over protection. That's some asinine macho bullshit. You don't need all the protection in the world but some God damn eye glasses and ear plugs is a no brainer. Lost a little interest in him after that.
 

brekk

Dancing Dino Superstar
<Bronze Donator>
2,191
1,746
Yeah, I'd get it if he meant not wanting to put on chaps, or some other more extreme protection which is fair for a masonry saw. But no excuse for not using the basics.

As an aside as a former lumberjack for any of you chainsawing please buy and wear a pair of chaps. Chainsaws are no joke no matter how skilled you are. My chaps saved me from what would have been a life threatening gash across my thigh. And that was with well over 1,000 hours on a chainsaw.

Being a bad ass doesn't help in the hospital.
 

Burren

Ahn'Qiraj Raider
4,053
5,342
I remember reading the warning label on a chainsaw I had about 20 years ago. It said a bunch of things to not do and then capped it off with "...do not attempt to stop blade with genitals".

You know they had to put that on there because someone tried.
 

Erronius

Macho Ma'am
<Gold Donor>
16,478
42,405
Anybody have any experience dealing with Woodpeckers? I'm at fucking wit's end here.

After spending almost 2K in repairs over the last three years repairing damage to my cedar siding caused by woodpeckers, I went ahead and replaced the siding on my house with fiber cement at the cost of 30K, and chose it specifically because everything I researched said woodpeckers wouldn't fuck with fiber cement. I didn't change it specifically because of woodpecker damage, but primarily because the fuckwad builder had used finishing nails to install the cedar siding, hence it started to warp and pop to shit after a few years, but the woodpeckers were certainly incentive. Well, not 24hrs had passed since the new siding had been installed and painted when I heard the dreaded knocking on my walls at 7am. These little fuckers can do a lot of damage in a short period of time.

Over the years I've tried:
- Silver discs and streamers hanging from the windows. Butt ugly and stopped working after a week or two.
- Helium filled reflective balloons "trapped" under my roofline where they love to attack. Also ugly, required daily balloon prep, and had limited effectiveness after a month or so.
- Fake Owl. Totally ineffective after a day or two.
- Bird-X Woodpecker repeller. This actually worked after I had the right "predator" dialed in, but the various fake predator noises it made would drive the neighbors' dogs *crazy* and elicited complaints.

Only things I haven't tried:
- A pellet gun. It's supposedly a federal crime to shoot woodpeckers, but I'm desperate here, and would only really be effective if these woodpeckers are the same crew of assholes.
-Installing an Owl box on the tree outside and hope it attracts a real owl. I'm just not sure whether the owls here in Dallas are a threat to woodpeckers, or if they are even really relevant during the early morning, which is when the Woodpeckers attack.

Totally fucking nuts that I'm being pownd by fucking woodpeckers.

Any progress yet?

 

Frenzied Wombat

Potato del Grande
14,730
31,802
Any progress yet?


I've ordered a pellet gun since nothing else has worked. Poison isn't a good option because the area they like to hammer is 25 feet up just below the roofline. They basically love the area of siding that meets the roofline under the fascia, which is part of the hassle and has added to repair costs because you need a lift or giant ladder to reach the area.

For now with the WFH situation it's manageable because they only hammer between 6am-9am or so, so as soon as I hear that first knock I blast an airhorn out the window and the two of them (It's always the same two) fly away. It may be seasonal or just coincidental, but since getting on them with the airhorn, they aren't coming back every day-- probably 3 days or so in the last week.
 
  • 1Like
Reactions: 1 user

Frenzied Wombat

Potato del Grande
14,730
31,802
Oh, and while I'm here I need to shill a home improvement product. I always though paint sprayers were a "pro" tool only, and only to be used in outdoor or very well curtained off indoor areas. Then I was reading about these new HVLP airless sprayers so I picked one up for a paint job that the local Messicans were quoting me an arm and a leg for. All I can say is wow, I've never had so much fun painting and the quality of the job was exceptional-- better than anything a vendor has done with a roller. Highly recommend.

Wagner Flexio 3000 HVLP Paint Sprayer-0529085 - The Home Depot
 

Dandai

<WoW Guild Officer>
<Gold Donor>
5,907
4,483
Oh, and while I'm here I need to shill a home improvement product. I always though paint sprayers were a "pro" tool only, and only to be used in outdoor or very well curtained off indoor areas. Then I was reading about these new HVLP airless sprayers so I picked one up for a paint job that the local Messicans were quoting me an arm and a leg for. All I can say is wow, I've never had so much fun painting and the quality of the job was exceptional-- better than anything a vendor has done with a roller. Highly recommend.

Wagner Flexio 3000 HVLP Paint Sprayer-0529085 - The Home Depot
I got a $15 HVLP sprayer from harbor freight for spraying poly on wooden dining room chairs earlier this year. I had to clean the shipping oil off the gun and do some homework on how to get the best results, but the sprayer itself worked great.
 

Frenzied Wombat

Potato del Grande
14,730
31,802
I got a $15 HVLP sprayer from harbor freight for spraying poly on wooden dining room chairs earlier this year. I had to clean the shipping oil off the gun and do some homework on how to get the best results, but the sprayer itself worked great.

Lol $15? I think I've spent more on a paint brush before. Yeah, they've always been recognized as perfect for thin liquids such as lacquer, varnish, poly, stain, etc. The problem has always been spraying latex or oil paints, which required very expensive sprayers. Only recently have they come out with lower cost models that can spray latex without clogs or heavy thinning.
 

Dandai

<WoW Guild Officer>
<Gold Donor>
5,907
4,483
Lol $15? I think I've spent more on a paint brush before. Yeah, they've always been recognized as perfect for thin liquids such as lacquer, varnish, poly, stain, etc. The problem has always been spraying latex or oil paints, which required very expensive sprayers. Only recently have they come out with lower cost models that can spray latex without clogs or heavy thinning.
I know right? I thought for $15 it’s worth it just to try. As far as I know this sprays paint just fine. The guys I watched on YouTube using it did strongly recommend using a bigger compressor than 6 gallons and not to use a 1/4” air hose though.
 

Frenzied Wombat

Potato del Grande
14,730
31,802
I know right? I thought for $15 it’s worth it just to try. As far as I know this sprays paint just fine. The guys I watched on YouTube using it did strongly recommend using a bigger compressor than 6 gallons and not to use a 1/4” air hose though.

Ah ok, it uses a separately purchased external compressor. Is that really HVLP then?
 

Dandai

<WoW Guild Officer>
<Gold Donor>
5,907
4,483
Ah ok, it uses a separately purchased external compressor. Is that really HVLP then?
I thought so but maybe not. I thought HVLP described the function of the spray gun not the whole kit. So to be clear, the harbor freight spray gun I got was $15. Of course the air hose and compressor and fittings add another $150 or so, but no additional cost if you already have those items!
 

Frenzied Wombat

Potato del Grande
14,730
31,802
I thought so but maybe not. I thought HVLP described the function of the spray gun not the whole kit. So to be clear, the harbor freight spray gun I got was $15. Of course the air hose and compressor and fittings add another $150 or so, but no additional cost if you already have those items!

Yeah don't quote me, but I think by definition the HVLP sprayers are "airless", meaning they don't use an air compressor. The whole problem with "air" based sprayers was overspray and needing to curtain off everything if used indoors. With that model above I linked, I was able to do some baseboards in my house with just some tape/paper-- no plastic curtains or extensive floor protection. It just basically shoots paint direct rather than "clouds" of paint mist. That's really the clutch factor for me-- being able to spray paint indoors without super extensive prep.
 
  • 1Like
Reactions: 1 user

Lanx

<Prior Amod>
60,725
133,992
I know right? I thought for $15 it’s worth it just to try. As far as I know this sprays paint just fine. The guys I watched on YouTube using it did strongly recommend using a bigger compressor than 6 gallons and not to use a 1/4” air hose though.
yea i saw youtubes where pro detailers are amazed at the harbor frieght gun, it's obviously no pro qualaity, but w/ their ability, they can make it work like a pro gun.
 

Fogel

Mr. Poopybutthole
12,179
45,421
I bought a house last year, brand new construction. Had no issues with breakers until this weekend when the family came down from Jersey. If certain lights or appliances are used too long the breakers start tripping, and when you reset them they trip right out again until you wait awhile. Example: we were watching movies, and made it through 1 and a half movies before the TV breaker tripped without anyone turning anything else on. And then we had to wait a couple hours before we could turn the TV back on without it instantly retripping. Obviously I'm going to call an electrician but hoping to get some troubleshooting going.
 

lurkingdirk

AssHat Taint
<Medals Crew>
41,041
174,750
You have bulbs with too high a wattage in the sockets. Replace everything with LED bulbs and you likely won't have an issue again. It was likely wired for LEDs and they put incandescent bulbs in.
 

Borzak

Bronze Baron of the Realm
24,641
31,999
p3rwpjqmin2y.jpg
 
  • 7Worf
  • 1Like
Reactions: 7 users

Erronius

Macho Ma'am
<Gold Donor>
16,478
42,405
You have bulbs with too high a wattage in the sockets. Replace everything with LED bulbs and you likely won't have an issue again. It was likely wired for LEDs and they put incandescent bulbs in.

It's been some time since I wired a house, but I don't think I ever assumed a home would have LED lights when I wired it, and then overloaded circuits as a result. Because that would be a shitty way to lay out a house (you never know what homeowners are going to install). It's like the people that tell you they're going to buy relatively small light fixtures, you wire for that, and then they show up with ridiculously large lighting fixtures that have so many bulbs that your circuits can't handle it.

That being said, yeah, LED bulbs might help. But having to do that just to keep breakers from tripping would make me nervous about the entire house.


The fact he's only running into this when he has a lot of stuff left on for a prolonged period of time makes me wonder if 1) circuits are 'too full', and/or 2) if there was never an allowance for 'continuous duty' when they sized circuits, and they still just used standard '80%' rated breakers and loaded everything to the max.

As an example, let's say I'm casually laying out a 15A circuit using standard breakers. If all my loads are non-continuous, I can technically use a standard 15A breaker for 15A worth of loads. Where the 80% rating comes in, is when you have continuous loads (3+ hours, technically). If you have an entire circuit of continuous loads, you'd only be able (by UL and by NEC) to 'load up' that circuit breaker with 12A of load. But if you have 50%/50% on a general purpose mixed circuit, instead of calculating out 100%+125% you'd just do what I, and everyone else I've ever known, would do: put 12A on that circuit and not worry about whether stuff is continuous or not, because homeowners do weird shit and you never know when someone is going to leave literally everything in their house on for 3 days straight.

Obviously I'm going to call an electrician but hoping to get some troubleshooting going.

How do you feel about spending money on tools? For $100-$125 you can get a multimeter with an "amp clamp". Then you can reproduce what was happening and check to see how much current each circuit is drawing at the breaker.

1609725270925.png


When you say shit is tripping out after a prolonged period, my first guess is that the circuit breakers may be getting hot, and they're staying tripped until they cool off. I'd look for 12A+ on a 15A circuit, and 16A+ on any 20A. If this is what is happening, you should be able to actually feel the heat, and with a meter, see how much current they're handling. If you are getting 12A+ or 16A+ respectively, then yeah, this is probably going to happen each and every time you turn all that shit back on again for hours at a time.

Your options are:

  • do as lurkingdirk lurkingdirk suggested and try to lower how much current your general purpose circuits use
  • simply don't leave everything on for hours at a time (this might solve the issue)
  • possibly change certain breakers out to those that are rated for 100% continuous loads (I'm not sure they even make any 15A breakers with this rating?)
  • split some circuits in 'half' and feed each half from its own breaker (this would take a lot of tracing out and rewiring)
  • possibly add some dedicated circuits if you have some serious kit (like entertainment systems). I've wired single 2-gang boxes with 2 receptacles, on a 12g 20A circuit for people before.
My 3rd answer really isn't serious, because we've only been talking circuit breakers. If you were able to find a 15A breaker that was rated for 100% continuous loads, the 14g wire in your existing circuit wouldn't be. Meaning your breaker might then hold, but the wire in your wall is going to start getting hot as well. Generally you need to 'upsize' both the circuit conductors, as well as circuit breakers. I would treat 15A of continuous loads as 18.75 rounded up to 19, which is above what I'd even want to put on a 20A breaker with 12G wire. This is why it's SO MUCH EASIER to just size your 15/20A circuits to below 12/16A at all times.
 
  • 3Like
Reactions: 2 users

lurkingdirk

AssHat Taint
<Medals Crew>
41,041
174,750
It's been some time since I wired a house, but I don't think I ever assumed a home would have LED lights when I wired it, and then overloaded circuits as a result. Because that would be a shitty way to lay out a house (you never know what homeowners are going to install). It's like the people that tell you they're going to buy relatively small light fixtures, you wire for that, and then they show up with ridiculously large lighting fixtures that have so many bulbs that your circuits can't handle it.

That being said, yeah, LED bulbs might help. But having to do that just to keep breakers from tripping would make me nervous about the entire house.


The fact he's only running into this when he has a lot of stuff left on for a prolonged period of time makes me wonder if 1) circuits are 'too full', and/or 2) if there was never an allowance for 'continuous duty' when they sized circuits, and they still just used standard '80%' rated breakers and loaded everything to the max.

As an example, let's say I'm casually laying out a 15A circuit using standard breakers. If all my loads are non-continuous, I can technically use a standard 15A breaker for 15A worth of loads. Where the 80% rating comes in, is when you have continuous loads (3+ hours, technically). If you have an entire circuit of continuous loads, you'd only be able (by UL and by NEC) to 'load up' that circuit breaker with 12A of load. But if you have 50%/50% on a general purpose mixed circuit, instead of calculating out 100%+125% you'd just do what I, and everyone else I've ever known, would do: put 12A on that circuit and not worry about whether stuff is continuous or not, because homeowners do weird shit and you never know when someone is going to leave literally everything in their house on for 3 days straight.



How do you feel about spending money on tools? For $100-$125 you can get a multimeter with an "amp clamp". Then you can reproduce what was happening and check to see how much current each circuit is drawing at the breaker.

View attachment 326888

When you say shit is tripping out after a prolonged period, my first guess is that the circuit breakers may be getting hot, and they're staying tripped until they cool off. I'd look for 12A+ on a 15A circuit, and 16A+ on any 20A. If this is what is happening, you should be able to actually feel the heat, and with a meter, see how much current they're handling. If you are getting 12A+ or 16A+ respectively, then yeah, this is probably going to happen each and every time you turn all that shit back on again for hours at a time.

Your options are:

  • do as lurkingdirk lurkingdirk suggested and try to lower how much current your general purpose circuits use
  • simply don't leave everything on for hours at a time (this might solve the issue)
  • possibly change certain breakers out to those that are rated for 100% continuous loads (I'm not sure they even make any 15A breakers with this rating?)
  • split some circuits in 'half' and feed each half from its own breaker (this would take a lot of tracing out and rewiring)
  • possibly add some dedicated circuits if you have some serious kit (like entertainment systems). I've wired single 2-gang boxes with 2 receptacles, on a 12g 20A circuit for people before.
My 3rd answer really isn't serious, because we've only been talking circuit breakers. If you were able to find a 15A breaker that was rated for 100% continuous loads, the 14g wire in your existing circuit wouldn't be. Meaning your breaker might then hold, but the wire in your wall is going to start getting hot as well. Generally you need to 'upsize' both the circuit conductors, as well as circuit breakers. I would treat 15A of continuous loads as 18.75 rounded up to 19, which is above what I'd even want to put on a 20A breaker with 12G wire. This is why it's SO MUCH EASIER to just size your 15/20A circuits to below 12/16A at all times.

You should listen to Erronius Erronius