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Loser Araysar

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When I lived in Raleigh, NC, the house had a babbling brook and adjacent marshy area. I didn't try everything mentioned above, but the only thing that I tried that made a difference in the mosquito population was hiring a pest control/mosquito spray service that came out every 2-3 weeks to fog the perimeter of the property for like $75 a visit. I don't remember what the active ingredient in the spray was, but it's consumer grade and can be purchased/applied by you with a pump sprayer. Read the directions or it won't be as effective (don't apply within X hours of rainfall, don't overdilute, etc).

I already tried that with minimal effect. Was really disappointed.
 

Dandai

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I already tried that with minimal effect. Was really disappointed.
My understanding is the effectiveness of spray applications is greatly dependent on flora and conditions where/when it's applied. Mosquitos have to touch it for it to work.
 

Gator

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I grew up on the edge of the Everglades and one thing I learned was if the wind is blowing from the wetlands there was nothing you could do because those suckers were being blown in what seemed like giant clouds. Fogging the yard and spraying the grass temporarily worked if there was no wind or rain though. Best solution was when the county flew the mosquito plane and just sprayed the whole area for miles. How's your wind? Might explain why certain things aren't working.
 
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Loser Araysar

Chief Russia Correspondent / Stock Pals CEO
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I grew up on the edge of the Everglades and one thing I learned was if the wind is blowing from the wetlands there was nothing you could do because those suckers were being blown in what seemed like giant clouds. Fogging the yard and spraying the grass temporarily worked if there was no wind or rain though. Best solution was when the county flew the mosquito plane and just sprayed the whole area for miles. How's your wind? Might explain why certain things aren't working.

dont really get any major winds here unless a storm is coming through. for example, heres the forecast for my town right now

1660926067090.png
 

Lanx

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does anyone find this wrong? when i pull my attic stairs down and i walk up, i'm immediately met with the base of the roof and i have to do some sort of jungle gym maneuver and hop out to the sides
0820221840_HDR.jpg


to walk back down i have to hold onto the joists to have any semblance of 3pts of contact

so i know they sell these w/ the frame and casement
e8f4926884fd0a34e245c45ec941dd7b.png


but i don't see any screws beyond the three drywall screws
 

Daidraco

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does anyone find this wrong? when i pull my attic stairs down and i walk up, i'm immediately met with the base of the roof and i have to do some sort of jungle gym maneuver and hop out to the sides
View attachment 429065

to walk back down i have to hold onto the joists to have any semblance of 3pts of contact

so i know they sell these w/ the frame and casement
e8f4926884fd0a34e245c45ec941dd7b.png


but i don't see any screws beyond the three drywall screws
Are you talking about the air block? or? Im confused.
 

Goatface

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does anyone find this wrong? when i pull my attic stairs down and i walk up, i'm immediately met with the base of the roof and i have to do some sort of jungle gym maneuver and hop out to the sides
View attachment 429065

to walk back down i have to hold onto the joists to have any semblance of 3pts of contact

so i know they sell these w/ the frame and casement
e8f4926884fd0a34e245c45ec941dd7b.png


but i don't see any screws beyond the three drywall screws
1661041716848.png

is that cracked?
 

Lanx

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Are you talking about the air block? or? Im confused.
i'm talking about i wanna flip the ladder around cuz it's impossible to keep on walking up cuz the roof slopes down and that big tube is also the air handler return, so when i walk halfway up the ladder i gotta climb out to the sides.
no i checked thats just uneveness in cutting, like if you cut a tall piece of wood on a table saw and flipped it around but the cut is uneven.
 

Goatface

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i'm talking about i wanna flip the ladder around cuz it's impossible to keep on walking up cuz the roof slopes down and that big tube is also the air handler return, so when i walk halfway up the ladder i gotta climb out to the sides.
in theory, should just be able to flip the whole thing around. need to find where all it is screwed/nailed and make sure the board on the other side (where the hinge is going to go) is properly anchored. the trim might be tricky if it nailed to the ladder's frame. if the trim isn't attached to the frame, it might be able to hold the weight, if not will have to take it off and place a couple of boards to hold it up while reinstalling.
most i have seen have 3 lag or structural screws in the steal hinge part and 1-2 on each side through the shims/spacer blocks
 

Lanx

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in theory, should just be able to flip the whole thing around. need to find where all it is screwed/nailed and make sure the board on the other side (where the hinge is going to go) is properly anchored. the trim might be tricky if it nailed to the ladder's frame. if the trim isn't attached to the frame, it might be able to hold the weight, if not will have to take it off and place a couple of boards to hold it up while reinstalling.
most i have seen have 3 lag or structural screws in the steal hinge part and 1-2 on each side through the shims/spacer blocks
yea i went to examine it more and look for the shims and more light and i guess this thing is held in by trim nails

googling for a few installation pdfs and yea it seems 16d penny nails is what youre supposed to use
fastened with improper nails or screws. Homeowners often use drywall or deck screws rather than the standard 16d penny nails or ¼” x 3” lag screws. Nails and screws that are intended for other purposes may have reduced shear strength and they may not support pull-down ladders;

i thought it 16d nails is the same as 16gauge, but i guess not
90ccc5753a2e4870e46dbb6d2dfc2c4e.png


yea looking at what a 16d penny nail looks like, they used like trim nails for this ladder, i mean it's been working for 30 years, the house was built in 93 and i even see a made date on the ladder of 93, but holy shit
 
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BrutulTM

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Went ahead and Amazon next day'd a Metabo Variable Speed. Just went with a 4.5" to get me in the door. Maybe I'll step up over time. It was actually somewhat difficult to find an "entry level" variable speed that seemed worth a damn. Normally I would default to Ridgid like all my other stuff, but I also wanted corded for shop work (probably stupidly because of yesterday's experience with the drill running out two batteries). Anyway, we'll see tomorrow. Too busy today to even work on shit.
The boatbuilding channel that was posted in the woodworking thread just did a pretty nice video on sharpening.

 
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BrutulTM

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There's a foolproof way to be mosquito free for the rest of your life and the price is now below $4 locally...

family guy school GIF
 
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Intrinsic

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He says hes going to clear coat them, but Im thinking collars, scratching, chains, whatever, is going to scratch it off. Then the occasional splash of Ammonia is going to make those bars rust a 1000 times worse. Regardless, I request finished product pictures Intrinsic Intrinsic .

Got it moved upstairs. Still not 100% where to put it, currently sitting at the foot of our bed waiting for me to hit the corner when I wake up at 2am to pee.

Need to wipe it all down with some cleaner, finish mounting the top (if you can see the small edge of the figure 8 poking out just below the corner of the Auburn blanket). Also need to cut the back. Have a sheet of 1/4" ply for that.

Also meant for the hinges to be on the other side so the door opened towards the bed but I was rushing to finish it and mounted them. So, we'll figure that one out. Not an issue to swing it.

Appreciate everyone's suggestions and help with the rods. If I were to do this again or for someone else I would definitely increase my cost and buy stainless or some other form that didn't require the manual cleaning. It wasn't difficult but I don't think the cost benefit is there vs. the time. My time is better spent elsewhere on the project.

1661449773064.png


Had to up the exposure on the iPhone b/c the lighting in our bedroom is so bad.
 
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Lanx

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But I also don't have a current code book to doublecheck the current code requirements for GFCI protected circuits in garages, and I don't know what code version your AHJ is on.
i double checked for in tn for me the current electrical code that applies is 2017 before all this gfci necessity on nearly every outlet.

gonna get ready to do this soon, i know it's weird but i'm painting the garage first, THEN i'll punch a hole in, i know i should have done it the other way lulz but i really have to hang shelves and organizational up first, 4ft of 6/3 cost 21bucks, like jesus no wonder this costs over a grand if you had to drag a run from the other side of the house or through a basement.
 
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Lanx

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so like as i was in the woodworking thread thinking how to repurpose our college age drawer (first piece of furniture)

i did the walls and put up the wall control pegboard, the huge drawers didn't really leave much room for organization
0829221922_HDR.jpg


so i put a ghetto pegboard in there and was playing around to see if i can use some 9/32 dowels and do some kind of organizing thing
0829221922a_HDR.jpg


i might just put all my sockets on that left side shelf
 
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