Home Improvement

Ryoz

<Donor>
833
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My guess then is I can probably try to run my range on the 30amp circuit but when a lot is on it will likely trip the beaker. Likely I should replace the breaker, cable and receptacle (assuming a 30 amp circuit)?
 

Remit_sl

shitlord
521
-1
My guess then is I can probably try to run my range on the 30amp circuit but when a lot is on it will likely trip the beaker. Likely I should replace the breaker, cable and receptacle (assuming a 30 amp circuit)?
NOT if the gauge of wire isnt enough(replacing the breaker), you will melt the wires or worse. I would run it and see if you trip the breaker. I cant imagine that would happen but I never looked at my new oven.[email protected]/* <![CDATA[ */!function(t,e,r,n,c,a,p){try{t=document.currentScript||function(){for(t=document.getElementsByTagName('script'),e=t.length;e--;)if(t[e].getAttribute('data-cfhash'))return t[e]}();if(t&&(c=t.previousSibling)){p=t.parentNode;if(a=c.getAttribute('data-cfemail')){for(e='',r='0x'+a.substr(0,2)|0,n=2;a.length-n;n+=2)e+='%'+('0'+('0x'+a.substr(n,2)^r).toString(16)).slice(-2);p.replaceChild(document.createTextNode(decodeURIComponent(e)),c)}p.removeChild(t)}}catch(u){}}()/* ]]> */is a lot of juice, but im not an electrician.
 

Ryoz

<Donor>
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But if the breaker is 30 and the range wants > 30, the breaker will trip, no? Now if the breaker was 50 but the wire was 10 that would
be a prob.
 

Remit_sl

shitlord
521
-1
But if the breaker is 30 and the range wants > 30, the breaker will trip, no? Now if the breaker was 50 but the wire was 10 that would
be a prob.
Yeah that is the problem. Run it with the current breaker, but dont just upgrade the breaker if it keeps tripping. You will need to inspect the wiring to determine the length of the run and the gauge. There are calculators for this online, and standard wire specs. Would probably be worth an hour of labor from a licensed electrician to ensure any changes are to code.
 

lurkingdirk

AssHat Taint
<Medals Crew>
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If you're putting a 50 amp breaker on something, you're damned right it's worth an electricians time. that's a lot of juice flowing, and an oven/stove running full out will draw as much as the manufacturer says, so your wiring better be up to the task, or it's fire time.

Which is not at all like hammer time.
 

mkopec

<Gold Donor>
25,440
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Im sure that range will draw 50 amps at worst case, right? all elements on high, including oven, right? Aside some xmas party where youre cooking all the shit yourself, I cannot see using every element on high along with the oven at the same time. I cook tons at home and all I ever use is 2 burners, maybe 3.

Plus they always err on the high side, meaning that this range, full out, probably only draws about 30 amps anyway.
 

Noodleface

A Mod Real Quick
37,961
14,508
Im sure that range will draw 50 amps at worst case, right? all elements on high, including oven, right? Aside some xmas party where youre cooking all the shit yourself, I cannot see using every element on high along with the oven at the same time. I cook tons at home and all I ever use is 2 burners, maybe 3.

Plus they always err on the high side, meaning that this range, full out, probably only draws about 30 amps anyway.
I guess the question I would always ask in this case would be "why risk it?"

Why risk my family's lives over an electrical issue - although perhaps that is the engineer in me. The calculated risk here is terrible.
 

Remit_sl

shitlord
521
-1
Yeah under no circumstance should you risk it when it comes to electrical. However, I dont see how a range can draw >30a unless it has the plasma cutter easy bake option, so hooking it up to a 30a 220 outlet should be fine. If it trips, get an electrician.
 

mkopec

<Gold Donor>
25,440
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Because, as was mentioned, with a 30 amp circuit and a 30 amp cord the worst that will happen is a popped circuit from time to time. It will not draw 50 amps through the 30 amp circuit.
 

Picasso3

Silver Baronet of the Realm
11,333
5,322
50a on an oven does seem intense. Are you sure thats not a 110 load or something?
The wire route makes a huge difference. If you can get under it and come up through the floor sometimes a new routing isn't too bad.
 

RandAlThor420_sl

shitlord
64
0
Ok so I bought a house last year with my pops, which we actually had built, with some input from us and more from the architect. Me and my girlfriend live here, along with two roommates (helps pay the mortgage!). Outside of our bedroom (the master, obviously) we have a fairly small backyard. Its only been a year, but we are looking to do a bit of remodeling/landscaping in the backyard.

It has small back porch (concrete slab) that we have a couple chairs set up on. The rest of the yard has mulch/plants around the perimeter, and then dirt/grass in the middle. The idea when we were planning it was that the grass area would be a great place for our dogs to go about their business, but the reality is that it has turned into a mess. For one thing, the location is awkward in terms of sunlight - for many months out of the year it gets zero sun, and then in the summer months *parts* of it get full blazing sunlight while other parts literally never see sun EVER. So, its impossible to water the "correct" amount. In the winter its a sloggy muddy mess. The dogs peeing on it causes patches to die.... lets just say it isn't the beautiful backyards scene I had envisioned

I am not a handy man, I have never done landscaping, truthfully I am not really a hands on type of guy typically. But my father has built houses, has quite a bit of knowledge, and is willing to help. However, most of his knowledge comes from years ago, and so he has some possibly outdated methods/materials that he knows. So, I am hoping to bounce my idea of what I want to do off you all, and perhaps get either enough positive reenforcement to feel good about it or enough negative reenforcement to realize my errors and go with a different (better?) plan.

The current plan is to take out the grass and replace it with something. The basic idea is taking the grass out, and digging the dirt roughly 6 inched below the level of the back "porch" (the concrete slab that is directly out the back door, which we have our chairs set up on). Then, after leveling it, lay down some sand (probably about 2-3 inches worth), and then lay down some sort of brickwork - the height of the top of the brickwork should be exactly even with the height of the cement block that is our back "porch", so there is no step up or down, its just one level surface. Then I plan on getting a nice table and chairs, possibly something with a built in firepit to light up in the evenings. Lastly, the mulch/plantlife that is around the perimeter will be extended out a bit, and this is where the dogs will now go potty (they have already taken a liking to going out here rather then in the grass).

My basic questions are as follows:

-Is there anything glaringly wrong with my plan?

-Exactly what type of "brickwork", or stonework, or tilework, or material should I use? Im assuming the look and the longevity are both important, but are there other factors to keep in mind as well?

-Do you guys have any other specific advice for me?
 

iannis

Musty Nester
31,351
17,656
So you want to build a brick patio extension to cover basically a big old dirt flat that is more of your back yard?

I'd be mindful of the drainage, especially if your backyard already has drainage problems. Be aware that stuff is going to shift if you're just laying it in sand, and it will settle. And there's going to be more than once-per-spring maintenance involved in it as well.

I've seen it done, it's possible. There are huge brick courtyards at a college near here, and they look pretty nice. But you're going to need to plan it very well. And if you let the edging go the entire thing is going to wind up looking as bad as if you hadn't done anything.

Brick is also surprisingly expensive.
 

RandAlThor420_sl

shitlord
64
0
As for the drainage, we will have it ever so slightly tilted away from the house (is that what you mean?). I also forgot to mention but the plan is to use some type of machine to pack the dirt prior to laying the sand I believe? This is supposed to keep it from shifting, or at least help.

And the edging is something i am no 100% clear on, my dad says he has ideas but it ultimately depends on what exact materiel we settle on. He has talked about some sort of wood around the edge I believe (he is the pro, I am not, clearly).

What maintenance should I be expecting on a more then once per year basis?

I would rather spend more now and set it up the best way possible then opt for less then the best materials/methods and regret it later, so if there are any changes that might be worth looking into I am all ears. My dad threw out an estimate of $500, but I am not really sure if that is accurate. The area that will be getting brickwork laid down is *roughly* 9'x16'
 

lurker

Vyemm Raider
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I don't know about Oregon, but here in AZ setting bricks (pavers) for a backyard is very common. You do it like you described. Most pavers are about 4" so excavate about 6", tamp and lay 2" of sand. Screed the sand to the level of your concrete patio and slope it away at the same time so water doesn't run towards your house. Pavers will drain but not as fast as bare earth, so slope and maybe a drain are important.

When you've completed the patio, lift the last row that is not locked in by your concrete patio or a fence, remove the sand and set them back down in mortar. That will keep them from moving. Sweep in sand and tamp again the next day and it's done.

If you have the room, you can lay pavers over your present concrete patio and continue out over the dirt for a seamless large area.

Pro-Tip:Wear gloves when working with pavers. They are very rough and you will wear the skin off your fingertips before you know it and it will hurt every time you touch something for weeks.

Pavestone paversare sometimes available at Home Depot.
 

lurkingdirk

AssHat Taint
<Medals Crew>
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If cost is not an issue, you might consider hiring in someone who can do pressed concrete - it can look like pavers or stone, and has an excellent life span. Plus, they can put in french drains under it, so drainage isn't an issue. Edging it isn't an issue. You don't have to do as deep a preparation, either.
 

RandAlThor420_sl

shitlord
64
0
I shouldnt say cost isn't an issue, as it is, but as long as we aren't going *too* crazy expensive with the budget it should be fine. And, my dad wants to do this work with me as some sort of bonding experience, so we plan on doing all the dirty work together.

The pavers thing is interesting, it would basically just be a large rectangular sheet that I would roll(?) out right on top of the existing dirt? So no need for sand, etc? I do like the idea for the simplicity (unlike my dad while I am in no way scared of manual labor I dont find it fun per se). I wonder how that would compare in cost, life expectancy, etc.

Maybe ill go to home depot and check their paver section out
 

lurker

Vyemm Raider
1,390
2,895
The neat thing about pavers vs. concrete, stamped or otherwise, is that the finished slab won't crack.

Don't skip the sand. That's how you get a level finished slab. Your excavation will never be smooth and level, but put two inches of sand down on top of the lumpy dirt, screed it with a long 2x4 and now you've got a surface that's smooth and flat.
 

RandAlThor420_sl

shitlord
64
0
OK im going around tomorrow to look at some of these materials in person, see what the guys at shops have to say about it all, etc (I like to hear a lot of opinions before I do something semi major). Thank you for the help, I will check back in soon with updates and possibly more questions
 

iannis

Musty Nester
31,351
17,656
You could even get super fucking fancy and do different color bricks for a pattern / mosaic design.

Get straight up roman with it.

COCK'N'BALLS, WITH STINK LINES.
 

RandAlThor420_sl

shitlord
64
0
The cock and balls idea is a good one, but I think im gonna go with something more "traditional". And I went and spoke with some "pros" today - they are talking about all the same stuff that you were, except perhaps an extra layer if I understand this correctly. The bottom layer would be something called "road fabric", then it would be about 3 inches of gravel (this allows drainage), then 1 inch of sand, and then whatever paver I went with.

Any particularly awesome pavers/colors/patterns that I should look into? So far it seems that they are all sort of similar, with just minor different shapes and colors