Home Improvement

lurkingdirk · Mar 18, 2015

If you go with brick, I like a herringbone pattern.

But it sounds like you're on the right track. Just pick what you like, and make sure that you prep the area right. If you prep it right, lay a good bed for whatever brick/paver you put on top, it'll last you a long time.

RandAlThor420_sl · Mar 19, 2015

Yeah thanks for the help so far guys, I definitely feel like i've got a solid understanding of how its all gonna happen now. Probably will begin the prep work next week some time, and then finish it up on my days off (tuesday wed) the week after. I will snap some before/after pics to show you guys.

And if I did want to do a sweet design (Im thinking the graphic off an ed hardy shirt or maybe like a tribal tattoo but in my backyard) how hard is that too pull off? Pretty much just pick different colored brick, and then cut each piece as we are going to lay them? Or you have to visualize/plan ahead (probably the better idea but not typically my strength) so you then know *exactly* how many bricks it will take, how they will be cut/layed, etc

iannis · Mar 19, 2015

I would think the second one. Plot it out on a piece of graph paper beforehand as well. You should probably have a pretty uniform brick. Like ASCII art IRL.

lurker · Mar 20, 2015

RandAlThor420_sl said:
Yeah thanks for the help so far guys, I definitely feel like i've got a solid understanding of how its all gonna happen now. Probably will begin the prep work next week some time, and then finish it up on my days off (tuesday wed) the week after. I will snap some before/after pics to show you guys.

And if I did want to do a sweet design (Im thinking the graphic off an ed hardy shirt or maybe like a tribal tattoo but in my backyard) how hard is that too pull off? Pretty much just pick different colored brick, and then cut each piece as we are going to lay them? Or you have to visualize/plan ahead (probably the better idea but not typically my strength) so you then know *exactly* how many bricks it will take, how they will be cut/layed, etc

You're nuts if you think you're going to cut pavers into some pattern. They're 4" thick and made out of concrete. Even if you had a 10" wet saw, you'd have to make a cut, flip the brick over and make a second pass. It makes a muddy mess just cutting what you need for edging. If you're dry cutting, it's even less fun.

Just buy what HD sells, usually a keystone pattern, in a color blend you like, and lay it.

lurker · Mar 20, 2015

Double post.

Picasso3 · Mar 21, 2015

Why can't a 10 inch wet saw cut a 4 inch paver if he somehow got some that thick?

Not that i disagree with it being nuts to fuck with a pattern

lurkingdirk · Mar 21, 2015

It would take such a crazy long time, but it is possible.

On another note, just tried a test cement counter top. Made up four forms, mixed the cement, and am doing slightly different things in finishing them, seeing what works best, and if this is really a viable option for me when I do my kitchen this summer.

I'm going to change the shape/size of my island, it's going to be 4x6 feet of pure, open counter space. I might have two holes in the one side to drop garbage and recycling into hidden containers, but other than that, that is one big, glorious food prep/serving space. I'm getting slightly tingly just thinking about having that.

Oldbased · Mar 21, 2015

Picasso_sl said:
Why can't a 10 inch wet saw cut a 4 inch paver if he somehow got some that thick?

Not that i disagree with it being nuts to fuck with a pattern

Have had several that wouldn't do it. For one table radial saws have a guard that won't go through it or anything thicker than 2 inches for that matter. Made doing rock exteriors a bitch when most were 1.75-2.25 inches thick. Even my plunge wouldn't do a 4 but it's a 7 inch blade again more due to side guard even though it will do better than radial. But I could score one side then flip and do other ok. Just a bitch.
All depends on the saw design and crap.

lurker · Mar 21, 2015

Picasso_sl said:
Why can't a 10 inch wet saw cut a 4 inch paver if he somehow got some that thick?

Not that i disagree with it being nuts to fuck with a pattern

The saw motor usually hangs down too far. Most wet saws are meant to cut tile which is thin. I've never seen a wet brick saw, but I imagine they exist. I use a wet saw when I do paver work because I have one for tile work. Most companies I've seen lay pavers use a gas powered 14" dry saw. It's a dusty mess and the cuts are great for edging, but you'll never get the accuracy necessary for mosaic work.

Borzak · Mar 22, 2015

I laid limestone pavers and I used a special blade on my bandsaw, probably not an option here tho.

iannis · Mar 22, 2015

lurkingdirk_sl said:
It would take such a crazy long time, but it is possible.

On another note, just tried a test cement counter top. Made up four forms, mixed the cement, and am doing slightly different things in finishing them, seeing what works best, and if this is really a viable option for me when I do my kitchen this summer.

I'm going to change the shape/size of my island, it's going to be 4x6 feet of pure, open counter space. I might have two holes in the one side to drop garbage and recycling into hidden containers, but other than that, that is one big, glorious food prep/serving space. I'm getting slightly tingly just thinking about having that.

Can you seal, finish, and polish cement well? It seems like it might be a bit too porous to trust as a kitchen workspace, to me.

But then again, I seriously don't know if you can even seal the shit well.

Picasso3 · Mar 22, 2015

I think a lot of time the angle is to keep it matte and have that used restoration hardware look.

lurkingdirk · Mar 22, 2015

Iannis_sl said:
Can you seal, finish, and polish cement well? It seems like it might be a bit too porous to trust as a kitchen workspace, to me.

But then again, I seriously don't know if you can even seal the shit well.

You can, there are particular things to use, but cement counter tops are becoming quite popular, and the products are showing up in more places. Look, for example, at this product from Menards, and all the products that go along with it. Cement counters are awesome.

http://www.menards.com/main/building...739-c-5648.htm

Heylel · Mar 22, 2015

So apparently my garbage disposal sprang a leak and was dumping a relatively significant amount of water under my cabinets whenever the sink filled up. The whole bottom of the cabinet was saturated to the point that I was able to tear it out pretty easily with a crowbar.

I don't see any evidence of mold or staining on the basement ceiling below. The joint tape might be a little bit brittle, but I can't be sure that isn't a result of having the ceiling sanded last summer and it not being mudded properly.

How big an ordeal am I looking at? The wood below the cabinet is wet in places, and I have a dehu pointed at it for now. Can I replace just the cabinet bottom or am I going to have to rip the whole thing out?

lurker · Mar 23, 2015

Heylel_sl said:
So apparently my garbage disposal sprang a leak and was dumping a relatively significant amount of water under my cabinets whenever the sink filled up. The whole bottom of the cabinet was saturated to the point that I was able to tear it out pretty easily with a crowbar.

I don't see any evidence of mold or staining on the basement ceiling below. The joint tape might be a little bit brittle, but I can't be sure that isn't a result of having the ceiling sanded last summer and it not being mudded properly.

How big an ordeal am I looking at? The wood below the cabinet is wet in places, and I have a dehu pointed at it for now. Can I replace just the cabinet bottom or am I going to have to rip the whole thing out?

It's too bad you tore the cabinet bottom out before you just let it dry out. Perhaps you had to. IDK, not having seen it.

That said, floods in homes happen all the time and usually wet wood will dry over time with no damage other than some staining (even particle board) and even that can be rectified. I think the mold issue is overplayed and a whole industry has grown up around it. There are products you can get at the hardware store to treat areas you suspect might develop mold. Bleach isnot one of them.

Don't make more work for yourself. Let everything dry for a few days and reevaluate. I'm thinking a new cabinet floor (however you do that?) and you're done.

Heylel · Mar 23, 2015

Yeah, the cabinet floor was shot. All of the heavy items like kitchen cleaners, baking soda, etc. that had been stored there put a lot of weight on it, and once the water saturated the particle board it started to sag badly. Some of it just disintegrated from handling it, which is why I went ahead and tore out the wet stuff. I wanted to get a look underneath and make sure there wasn't standing water to soak up.

It's drying pretty well right now with a dehu on it, so I think it's largely cosmetic damage. I went ahead and called State Farm last night but I sincerely doubt the repair will top my deductible.

iannis · Mar 23, 2015

I would think it's just a sheet of thin plywood.

I haven't looked at the board beneath my sink. But I imagine that's all it is. A saw, a pencil, a plyboard, some finishing nails, done.

Perhaps I underestimate this.

Joeboo · Mar 23, 2015

Anybody ever jackhammer & remove a concrete slab?

I have a roughly 3' x 3' concrete slab in my backyard that was a ramp leading up to our old shed, I dismantled and removed the old, rickety shed last fall, but the slab is still there and I think we're putting the new shed elsewhere(and it probably wouldn't fit a new shed correctly anyway, the old shed was built by hand and not a standard size that you would get at a Home Depot or Lowes).

Problem is, since it was a ramp, its pretty damn thick on one end, probably 8-10 inches.

I've never used a jackhammer in my life, anyone have a rough idea of how hard it would be to break up something like that?

lurkingdirk · Mar 23, 2015

That would likely take 30 minutes work with a jackhammer. It's physical work, but not hard to figure out. You'll be able to break it into manageable pieces quickly. The issue is what you do with those pieces. Put some in your weekly garbage for the next 8 weeks is an option.

Rent a jackhammer, have a blast. It's fun.

iannis · Mar 23, 2015

I'd probably just get some railroad spikes and a sledgehammer. But that's just me. I'd be afraid that I'd amputate my own foot.

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