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Siliconemelons

Siliconemelons

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Generally I would say flooring first, but generally I would say that with tile or hardwood (full real, hardwood - not hardwood topped laminate/manufactured) - something that if you choose to replace you can go over, or cut out/around the current cabinets fairly well - for that type of floor, as many consider it "temporary" or easy in easy out flooring, and questionable water resilience - I may suggest after cabinets... Tile, before - no question.
 
Jalynfane

Jalynfane

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I vote flooring first, we want to redo our kitchen and they did not do flooring first. Now we have to try to match ancient hardwood while moving stuff around. Might have to sand and restain the whole house now to match it.
 
Soygen

Soygen

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As for later changes, I don't plan on living here long enough to do new flooring after this renovation, so it's sounding like flooring first. Cut-wise it will definitely be easier. P, even the dishwasher is on the flooring?
 
Soygen

Soygen

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I've seen some mentioning of not putting it on the flooring in case of leaking, but I mean...obviously the goal is not to have a leaky dishwasher.
 
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Picasso3

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I think that's dumb.

Regarding floating floor under cabinets you may contact whatever the manufacturer of your floor is and ask what they recommend., especially if you have an island. Or you could ask the guy at lowe's and see if he can make something up.

Googled quote re floating floor: "Thank you for contacting XXX, I would be glad to help you with your questions. Cabinets are not recommended to be installed over a floating floor, especially cabinets that have a heavy granite counter top. The proper installation would be to install the cabinets and then install the flooring around the cabinets. Installing the cabinets on the flooring could bind the floor due to the weight of the cabinets. If the flooring were to expand due to high humidity levels or other moisture sources the floor could potentially buckle."

This may very well be about some shitty 0.50 sq foot laminate and not engineered hardwood (good shit) that you're using.
 
Soygen

Soygen

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Yeah, I reached out to Cali Bamboo, which is one of the possible vendors I'm going with, to see what they say. They mention not putting permanent cabinets on top of them, but I'll see what they say in an email response.
 
Zapatta

Zapatta

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As a general rule flooring is always the last things to go in. Floating floors dont last long, they tend to have moisture issues in humid climates and can warp badly. Stay away from any veneer over particle board type flooring it's cheap because it's garbage. Real Bamboo is awesome, very dimensional y stable, doesn't have to acclimate before installation like hardwoods ,can be set with mastic that is also a moisture barrier. I have dogs and my Bamboo floor is still in good shape with 15 yrs of heavy traffic. Be prepared to go thru many saw blades, bamboo makes carbide spark, and the saw dust pile can combust pretty easily.
 
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Siliconemelons

Siliconemelons

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I only question not doing it all because of the specific type of flooring and that its floating flooring... although they do have now days a rubberized adhesive type stuff for wood plank / click flooring - its like essentially mortar for wood / manufactured floor- that also serves as a more resilient vapor barrier than roll down stuff.

Laminate and whatnot is /very/ susceptible to expansion because its compressed fiber etc. they don't ask to leave 1/2 - 1/4" inch around the entire thing for expansion for no reason - and most of that happens below the visible top - however the bamboo stuff, if full real stuff is most likely a lot better than your run of the mill laminate - in every regard of water resilience, expansion etc- - the manufacture may also recommend using the morter like adhesive for your application vs the floating typical installation.

Also it depends on what type of cabinets your putting on top of it and how much it "restricts" the flooring - as standard box's have all 4 sides on the floor - or some have the entire bottom of the box on the floor - and with a lot of weight etc. I can see how that post above warning make sense. However some cabinets (such as ikea) - they simply have 4 posts that are the "legs" of the cab box and would not "bind up" as much.


tldr: what Zappatta said... ;-)
 
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Zapatta

Zapatta

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Doing any flooring remodel I always buy enough squares to cover the entire room, even if I dont set it all because of cabinets etc. Then stash the extra in a utility room. Sucks to try finding matching boards / tiles years later when you have to change a damaged section or move a fixture and fill in a spot.

Splicing in a real floor no biggie, splicing in a floating floor is always gonna fail sooner than it should.

If you are going to mastic a floor down make sure you have the correct solvent for the glue to wipe away finger prints ASAP. Trying to get that stuff off days later takes a ton of elbow grease.

Also the biggest thing when setting a floor is figuring out the layout, grab a YoYo (tape measure) and scratch your head for a while, figure out where you are going to split or hide the 'Rips" ( long cuts) and where your transitions to another flooring type and thresholds are. nothing worse than having a 1/4 in gap you have to fill at a doorway meeting carpet. there are also 'visual' considerations you have to take into account when figuring out layout, the pattern will always look better from one direction. Usually I favor looking at it from a large room going into a smaller one.
 
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Kinner

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During our remodeling, they said to expect about a 20% waste on tile. Thats how much extra they order to just be safe and for the cuts, etc.
 
Zapatta

Zapatta

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Kinner said:
During our remodeling, they said to expect about a 20% waste on tile. Thats how much extra they order to just be safe and for the cuts, etc.
Click to expand...

I always save any drops that are a half tile or bigger, they come in handy for repairs later
 
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Picasso3

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I haven't thought about it. I'd say Whatever I have in my hand. I just remember doing a galley kitchen and the only think I had left over was the rip at the beginning, end, and 1 piece. It was only about 84" wide so would lay out pieces before.
 
Zapatta

Zapatta

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Picasso3 said:
I haven't thought about it. I'd say Whatever I have in my hand. I just remember doing a galley kitchen and the only think I had left over was the rip at the beginning, end, and 1 piece. It was only about 84" wide so would lay out pieces before.
Click to expand...

I try to make sure I have nothing shorter than 10 inches at either end, and check the layout so no joints are within 4 inches of common. Makes a difference when nailing, not so much if glued down.
 
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Picasso3

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Attic unit drip pan is catching tons of condensation off the air handler. I think that drain goes to the soffit so it drips on the back porch. A coil drain seems to be working fine. Is it normal when it's this hot and shitty outside to get about a drop a second in the pan?
 
Blazin

Blazin

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can you see if there ice build up on the coil? If filters become clogged the coil can begin freezing up and cause excessive amount of condensation
 
Jalynfane

Jalynfane

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Appliance question:

Not sure if a new thread to start or use this area. Do any of you have experience with a good, quality cabinet dishwasher? We have replaced ours twice in 7 years now and it is driving me insane. Current one is an LG, which I will never buy another LG product again.

I am looking for one that will last me 10+ years at least. Too bad they don't make Kenmore anymore like they used to. I am not looking for low price or anything, I don't mind saving and buying stuff that costs, as long as it lasts.
 
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