Noodleface
A Mod Real Quick
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Home Improvement
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Erronius
Macho Ma'am
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Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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so the edges are split and cracked, i assume it's just normal wear and tear and how it's screwed in the end grain.
which is scary, cuz the screws are disintegrated, look at em, most of em are eaten away to twigs, half of em are just the screw heads, i whacked most of my stairs off with just a hammer strike from the bottom, the stairs were literally just being head together by the shear weight of the stair, so yea i'm at least replace every screw and flipping over the boards at the same time.
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By all accounts butcher block is the best surface for avoiding bacteria. Wipe it down with simple wet cloth, no issues.
I've made three desks from Ikea countertops with pipe fittings and fence rail for legs. ~$200 total cost each. They're attractive in an industrial kind of way, break down easily for moving (though they're heavy), and you could drive a car over them no problem. I don't see myself ever needing a different design.
If anything, it's the opposite. I remember some study where the wicking action of the wood fibers caused the surface to dry better vs moisture trapping in plastic cutting boards. Also there was something about splintered wood fibers having a slightly anti-microbial effect by perforating the cell walls of bacteria.
As far as using it for a desk, just apply 3+ coats of polyurethane and clean occasionally.
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Siliconemelons
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I used polyurethane on my countertops... "it's not food safe!" Who sticks their food just on the counter top?
I have one small spot of mold by the edge of the sink after 5ish years.
I have one small spot of mold by the edge of the sink after 5ish years.
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I would never use polyurethane on countertops because it would mark up so much. Any knife nick, any hot pot, anything would damage the finish. I don't care about the not food safe stuff, I just think it wouldn't be as durable as many other options.
Siliconemelons
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also I only poly'ed the top and exposed sides.. So I am sure that's a no no and I also have my dishwasher under it with a non-treated underside... I look under there every now and then and don't see any crazy black mold colony starting... yeah my dish washer is not screwed down and kinda wobbles.. Lol so I guess it helps with slowing any moisture to escape
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This thread seems to be the only one that has some woodworking content, but not much. Do we have any hobby or pro woodworkers here? Is there a thread for this im missing?
I make furniture and some custom cabinetry as a hobby. Just finished this craftsman style chair side table. 100% hand tools. Oak finished with 6 coats of arm-r-seal. Not a hard project, but was really rewarding doing it all unplugged.
I make furniture and some custom cabinetry as a hobby. Just finished this craftsman style chair side table. 100% hand tools. Oak finished with 6 coats of arm-r-seal. Not a hard project, but was really rewarding doing it all unplugged.
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That's lovely. Do you biscuit join the top pieces? How do you get such a consistent taper on the legs?
Strictly amateur hour stuff, but yes. I started with a super-rustic shoe bench. Most recent project was a small table for my son's keyboard. After milling by hand all the boards for that bench I decided I don't have time for that shit so I bought a planer and table saw. All traditional joinery, though. Dovetails on the bench and mortise and tenon on the table.
Next big project is a pair of lofted beds for the kids with integrated desks and shelving. That'll take some real design thought.
It's pretty straightforward to do with a hand plane.
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Thanks for the compliment and thanks for asking about it. No biscuits although I do have a Festool Domino. Just carefully jointed by hand with a #5 plane and glued. As for the taper (each leg is tapered 2 sides), you can get really accurate by layng out with a ruler, scoring the lines with a sharp knife, and using a smoothing plane and card scraper.
To be honest, getting the curved apron pieces (almost) perfect was more time consuming. It's challenging to keep the curve at 90 degrees to the face when using a spokeshave.
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Those are great! The bench looks really solid. Also the keyboard stand has very nice proportions. It looks painted - what finish did you use?
Edit: I misread you. I see the dovetails on the bench, nice!
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Dude, much respect. I've made a lot of furniture, and I use power tools whenever possible. I have the complete array, so the curved apron pieces look like a cinch to me - draw the line, use the band saw, do some sanding. Getting those that consistent by hand is fantastic work!
I'm in the final throes of making kitchen cabinets. I have five drawers to finish, and then I'm on to the rest of my concrete countertops, backsplash, and boom, kitchen is done.
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Heh, you could drive a semi trailer over that bench. Each section is 12 face-laminated 2x4s. It's stupid overkill, but joining them on the edge didn't look right at that scale.
Both pieces are pine because it's what I had in the garage. (I now know why everyone hates working with pine. Next project is hardwood.) The table finish is an ebony stain with three coats of poly as a poor man's version of the classic piano french polish.
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I still bet it scratches like crazy. Butcher block should be natural. That's my opinion and I'm sticking to it.
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I enjoy working with pine (with hand tools). If your tools are really sharp, it chisels and planes nicely. Unless theres knots
I had to mill up a few hundred board feet of southern yellow pine for my workbench. This species is very dense had had tons of pitch/resin in it. After 20 mins gumming up my hand planes I said forget it. The jointer/planer made quick work of it but I had to clean the pitch off of all the machines. It was so sticky, ugh! Speaking of - this stuff works wonders on equipment after a lot of pine:
Formula 2050: Blade & Bit Cleaner Formula 2050 | Systems and accessories | CMT Orange Tools USA & Canada
Looking for Formula 2050: Blade & Bit Cleaner Formula 2050? You will find them in the Systems and accessories section of the CMT Orange Tools website. Visit the product page!
SYP isn't that bad. I used whatever dogshit white pine they sell for construction in LA (it's not even douglas fir). Even with chisels sharp enough to shave the stuff is so spongy it crushes rather than cuts across the grain, and it's full of knots that might as well be made of granite.
I'll definitely try that cleaner. My table saw blade is all full of resin.
Noodleface
A Mod Real Quick
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I have... I'm going to use vague terminology here... Thin pieces of soffet wood? Running along my soffets. I forget what it's called. Extremely thin pieces of wood covering my soffets. Well on one side of my house they all fell off over the last year. Whoever put them up definitely did a shitty job.
Replacing them... Just prime them, attach them, then paint? I see some water damage on a couple so I'm worried, but I think that just might be where they are near the gutters. The wood under doesn't look water damaged.
Should I glue + the boards and nail them?
Replacing them... Just prime them, attach them, then paint? I see some water damage on a couple so I'm worried, but I think that just might be where they are near the gutters. The wood under doesn't look water damaged.
Should I glue + the boards and nail them?