I'm aware?
I'm not sure why people are responding to me as if I think that's a fair price?
I don't think anyone is? Maybe something was misread. I certainly don't think you do lol
I'm aware?
I'm not sure why people are responding to me as if I think that's a fair price?
I was agreeing with you, you fkn grammar nazi!Maybe so; it's been a long week and I've only had 1 beer
I got quotes 2 months ago. I have a 5500 sq foot home. Basement and 2 stories to give you an idea. This is for ac and furnace. It was through a company who works with Home Depot.So thinking about replacing my AC. Right now I have a 25 year old 3.5 ton 13 seer unit and ideally looking to upgrade to a 15 seer unit. Whats the best manufacturer to go with? Brief look seems like it would be $8000-9000 for a install and removal old ac, that sound about right?
Also thinking about replacing 5 windows and a sliding glass door which are likely from the 70s when the house was built(fuck metal frames in direct sunlight). What do I need to look out for with that and what should I be going with?
A single 4 ton unit seems on the small side for 5500 sqft. Geography matters a lot obviously.I got quotes 2 months ago. I have a 5500 sq foot home. Basement and 2 stories to give you an idea. This is for ac and furnace. It was through a company who works with Home Depot.
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*edit: disregard all that, I may have a better idea. Or worse. Hopefully better.
Spelunked around in the attic for a few minutes, dug through about 28 feet of insulation and ran my gloved hand along all the studs to trace wires.
I can easily get to the hallway light fixture and the two hallway switches. The light fixture is 8' or less from the closet, as illustrated by my professional illustration skills below.
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The wiring for the fixture has 2 wires, going to switch outside of closet (which is just out of frame of the closet door) and to the end of the hallway by the stairs.
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There are two other adjacent rooms to that closet. My office (behind where I'm standing for photo) and bathroom which is the door in the middle of hallway.
Summer time here is from now to September. My ac is 28 years old , like 6 seer 3 ton. The basement and 1st and 80% of the 2nd story gets cool pretty quickly. I would love to see how a 4 ton seer would rock. I know our power bill is 60% higher than what it could be from the internet mathing. For better reference 3k sq foot is the 1st and 2nd. The rest is the basement. I’ve even thought of getting the zoned ac/heating. They told me it’s be about 15k.A single 4 ton unit seems on the small side for 5500 sqft. Geography matters a lot obviously.
Big Erronius - the breaker on the circuit to my well shed keeps tripping. I did some Florida Man troubleshooting and determined the short was between another outlet and the shed to narrow down the amount of digging I’d have to do. When I went to follow the wire, I found it was just UF wire, no conduit, and definitely not 12” (plz don’t tell mrs Dandai).
My understanding is new UF wire only needs to be buried 12” if it’s on a GFCI breaker.
1. Is that accurate?
2. How can I tell it’s a GFCI breaker?
3. Would it be “better” to do it differently? I’m assuming this circuit has been here since the house was built ~20 years ago so just doing what they did before would be plenty good enough for me.
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If you want to get it deeper and run a fresh ground rated cable, rent a trencher, they are worth it and make quick work of it. HD here has a 18" trencher 4h rental for $67 or $100 for the day and a 24" trencher 4h for $160 and $230 for the day. They have two more beyond that, at 36" and 48" too.Big Erronius - the breaker on the circuit to my well shed keeps tripping. I did some Florida Man troubleshooting and determined the short was between another outlet and the shed to narrow down the amount of digging I’d have to do. When I went to follow the wire, I found it was just UF wire, no conduit, and definitely not 12” (plz don’t tell mrs Dandai).
My understanding is new UF wire only needs to be buried 12” if it’s on a GFCI breaker.
1. Is that accurate?
2. How can I tell it’s a GFCI breaker?
3. Would it be “better” to do it differently? I’m assuming this circuit has been here since the house was built ~20 years ago so just doing what they did before would be plenty good enough for me.
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your illustration looks like a 8th grade sex ed class"Professional illustration skills", you say? Well here's myshitpostcontribution!
If the two wires at the ceiling light are "3" wires (prob 14/3, they look more 'round' as opposed to 14/2 that's generally flat in the US) then this is how it's probably wired, assuming the 'dead end' 3-way you showed the other day is at the end of this.
But this is *MY* choice of how I'd use the colored conductors (using Red and Black exclusively for the travelers) but I've seen other people do it differently.
So there should only be 1 box with both a constant hot and a neutral in it, so you can rob power out of it (the first switch box)
If you ever drop that light down off the ceiling and it's hanging by two white wires, then that's what they did.
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I only bothered pulling up the old wire because I thought I could use that path to lay the new wire. By the time it became obvious I wouldn't want to do that, I was curious where this thing was heading.I followed the wire to the shed and it meandered way the fuck off a straight line from the outlet to the shed. No idea what, if anything, they were following to bury it. Some places the depth approached 12” but most was 6” or less. I found the nicked spot close to where I was clearing soil around this stump I’ve been burning. I’m real nervous about how the fucking 240 is run to the well pump. Surely that wouldn’t also be super shallow and accidentally stumbled across?
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I followed the wire to the shed and it meandered way the fuck off a straight line from the outlet to the shed. No idea what, if anything, they were following to bury it. Some places the depth approached 12” but most was 6” or less. I found the nicked spot close to where I was clearing soil around this stump I’ve been burning. I’m real nervous about how the fucking 240 is run to the well pump. Surely that wouldn’t also be super shallow and accidentally stumbled across?
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I checked the breaker before running to Lowe’s to get new wire. I see the GFCI breakers with the test buttons you described. This circuit doesn’t have oneThe more pictures you post the sketchier it looks, LOL
I'm starting to feel like maybe you do need to go deeper with PVC and GFCI
Re: conduit - I have a lot of drain pvc the previous homeowner abandoned. Would it be an awful idea to repurpose that to use as conduit?