Home Theater/Game Room Thread

AladainAF

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Yup it's calibrated. And the reason I thought generic retail junk (at first) was because best buy sells them. But yeah, I was completely blown away, they are very very good and I definitely have respect for B&W and happy I went with them for my system.
 

Attog

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Yup it's calibrated. And the reason I thought generic retail junk (at first) was because best buy sells them. But yeah, I was completely blown away, they are very very good and I definitely have respect for B&W and happy I went with them for my system.
I've never heard anything bad about B&W before except maybe the price. Definitely never heard them called junk but I also didn't realize Best Buy carried them.
 

Ossoi

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Yup it's calibrated. And the reason I thought generic retail junk (at first) was because best buy sells them. But yeah, I was completely blown away, they are very very good and I definitely have respect for B&W and happy I went with them for my system.
Do you plan to add ceiling speakers for Dolby Atmos?
 

AladainAF

Best Rabbit
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I certainly could, but I want to get the projector/screen first, as well as a complete re-carpet and two layers of seating. I'm actually pretty happy with 7.1 atm, though I haven't heard Dolby Atmos sound yet.
 

Ossoi

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what's a good soundbar, or are they not worth it?
if you don't have the space for a 5.1 or 7.1 system, or don't want speaker cable everywhere then a soundbar would be ok. A soundbar will never get close to what a dedicated receiver and decent speakers can output.
 

Joeboo

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Yeah, if on a scale from 1-10, your TV speakers being a 1 and a good 5.1 or 7.1 surround system is an 8-10, a good soundbar is about a 3. They're definitely better than TV speakers(which are shit nowadays on flatscreens, and generally put out sound sideways, behind your TV rather than forward toward the viewer) but nowhere near in the same league as a dedicated receiver + surround system.
 

meStevo

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Would this be like a 4 then?Amazon.com: Yamaha YSP-5600 Music Cast Sound Bar with Dolby Atmos DTS: Electronics
wink.png
 

Lanx

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what's a good soundbar, or are they not worth it?
whats your price range? for 250 this was great for my parents
Amazon.com: VIZIO SB3851-C0 38-Inch 5.1 Channel Sound Bar with Wireless Subwoofer and Satellite Speakers (2015 Model): Home Audio Theater
Big living room so the "faux" 5.1 fake speakers wasn't going to work, they also don't want wires everywhere, and don't want to drill anywhere, so this was a good compramise. Simple hdmi pass through, the sub is wireless, but has to be placed near or behind you, since the rear speakers connect to the sub, still a better tradeoff than wires everywhere.
 
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Well my 6 year old Integra pre-amp died, for the $2000 price tag it really didn't last as long as I would have expected it too. I really was hoping my old Integra would last another year or 2 so I could buy a Trinnov Processor but I guess it wasn't in the cards. My current setup is built around XLR wires which rules out every receiver ever made. Therefore I can only look at a handful of fairly pricey pre-amps. I had full intentions of buying the Marantz AV 7702 Mk ii ($2200ish) but the, "why not bug" was biting hard so I scooped up its bigger brother the 8802A ($4,000). I do not buy into the, "better, more expensive dacs make all the difference", club. What perked my interest was its future proof ( hate that term) firmware updates ( New HDMI specs, DTS X, Aura-3D etc) so I figured I would last for a few years until our house is built.

All in all it was very easy to setup and has the latest Audyssey software. In all honesty I have never had much luck with Audyssey. The frequency response has improved slightly ( I measure everything before and after calibration with an external microphone and room eq wizard) but the waterfall plots and spectrograph are generally improved ( they are usually more important than pure Frequency response). So I grudgingly run it and try to forget it. In terms of sonic performance, I do not notice much difference over my older Integra DHC 80.2 which had a very good reputation for sound quality (take that with a grain of salt). I try to be objective as possible for my audio musings, if not I'd prolly have bought some Wilson Audio Alexandria's for 200k a pair ( not counting electronics). The Marantz 8802A has some great networking and bluetooth abilities, plus it has wifi antennas and connected to my network immediately. Running off of my htpc, Jriver and windows 10 picked it up automatically and I have had no problems running it through my htpc. The physical build quality feels much improved over the DHC 80.2, the visible screws and back plate have a nice brushed copper tone to them and the unit feels about twice as heavy and sturdier than my older Integra but a smaller foot print. All in all I feel the cheaper Marantz mentioned above would have worked just fine. The more expensive version has a few more bells and whistles and can be updated, which is the reason I bought it. I swear there is a new HDMI spec every year. If anyone wants me to post measurement graphs of before and after Audyssey I will. If anyone is in the market for a well positioned and "somewhat, not really affordable" line of pre-amps the new generation of Marantz's are quite good.
 

Kiroy

Marine Biologist
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whats your price range? for 250 this was great for my parents
Amazon.com: VIZIO SB3851-C0 38-Inch 5.1 Channel Sound Bar with Wireless Subwoofer and Satellite Speakers (2015 Model): Home Audio Theater
Big living room so the "faux" 5.1 fake speakers wasn't going to work, they also don't want wires everywhere, and don't want to drill anywhere, so this was a good compramise. Simple hdmi pass through, the sub is wireless, but has to be placed near or behind you, since the rear speakers connect to the sub, still a better tradeoff than wires everywhere.
I'm probably gonna pick this up. I'm not an audiophile but I'm getting tried of my tv speakers. They sound pretty good?
 

Utnayan

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Hey folks I have a question on figuration for speakers, subwoofer, YPAO, and my receiver. Some of this is over my head and I want to learn it
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For starters, here is my equipment for the audio piece:

Yamaha RX-V667 7.2-Channel Home Theater
Klipsch Quintet 5.0 Channel Home Theater system (Last year's model)
Klipsch Sub-12HG Synergy Series 12-Inch 300-Watt Subwoofer

I also have used YPAO when initially setting it up - but I am going to do it again once I install the new Sub on Thursday (Using an old Sony Sub and haven't had the time until now)

I am confused when it comes to Crossover and what to set the db settings at for my speakers. As it stands, YPAO did the initial settings and I wanted to make sure they were correct. It placed all my Sattelite's at Small, my center speaker as large, and I really have no clue what it did with the subwoofer. My Crossover setting right now is at 80, but I have no idea what that means or where I should properly configure it at with the new sub (Which I referenced above). In reading some online documents, I noticed I will want to get the Crossover as close to the speaker range as possible, but I have no clue what that is. I also saw something about utilizing a THX test to determine quality levels of the audio piece. The only thing I am sure on is the distance calculation which I measured and can properly input.

Anyone here have any experience that can speak to it and guide me through an easy process for configuration? I would like to get the best sound possible for my system. Also, on my PS4, should I be using Bitstream DTS, Bitstream Dolby, or PCM? That also confuses me a bit as I do not know which one is better. I leverage my PS4 as a blu-ray movie player so all blu-ray movies come through that.

Any help would be greatly appreciated and include many +nets and maybe free 6 packs of beers.
 
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Typing from the iPhone so I will make this quick, will post more detail later.


Set ALL speakers to small ( allows the subwoofer to take over )

Crossover = frequency that the speaker stops and the subwoofer starts. 80hz crossover means at 80hz the speaker stops playing and the subwoofer begins. Will explain more later.

Set PS4 to PCM (LPCM if the option is available). This sends the raw uncompressed digital data to the receiver and it can do the decoding.

YPAO -I have never used but it should adjust for distance (phase) and level (dB). Unless you have a way to measure the volume (spl) or phase of each speaker I would just use what settings it set them too. Every time you run the program it starts from scratch so running it multiple times won't cause a problem.
 
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If YPAO is like Audyssey, after a calibration is ran I would go back and set all speakers to small ( even if changed to large by YPAO) and make sure the speaker crossover is set to 120hz.
 

Utnayan

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Typing from the iPhone so I will make this quick, will post more detail later.


Set ALL speakers to small ( allows the subwoofer to take over )

Crossover = frequency that the speaker stops and the subwoofer starts. 80hz crossover means at 80hz the speaker stops playing and the subwoofer begins. Will explain more later.

Set PS4 to PCM (LPCM if the option is available). This sends the raw uncompressed digital data to the receiver and it can do the decoding.

YPAO -I have never used but it should adjust for distance (phase) and level (dB). Unless you have a way to measure the volume (spl) or phase of each speaker I would just use what settings it set them too. Every time you run the program it starts from scratch so running it multiple times won't cause a problem.
Awesome thanks
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I'll look forward to more later. What I would also want advice on is with that setup what should I set the Crossover to, and I am assuming distance means how far the speaker is away from the listener?
 
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Awesome thanks
smile.png
I'll look forward to more later. What I would also want advice on is with that setup what should I set the Crossover to, and I am assuming distance means how far the speaker is away from the listener?
I cannot seem to find much on the way of frequency response curves for the Klipsch Quintent V. By looking at them I would set the crossover no lower than 120Hz. Those drivers look to be no larger than 4 inches, maybe 3.5 inches. They will have a lot of problems playing lower than 120hz, I'd let the subwoofer handle everything below that.

Distance and crossover are very much related and unless you have a way to measure the speakers and subwoofer you are just shooting in the dark. If anyone is interested wants an affordable way to measure their sound system purchase this microphone,Acoustic Measurement Tools : UMIK-1Then go and downloaded Room EQ Wizard,REW - Room EQ Wizard Room Acoustics Software

A crossover is a filter used to limit the audio spectrum of a speaker or driver. I would read the wiki article here, it has some decent pictures to help one get an understanding.Audio crossover - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Different drivers are more efficient at various parts of the audible spectrum crossovers are used to combine different drivers in a speaker to make sound over a wider frequency band. Subwoofers are difficult to work with due to small room acoustics. Their waveforms are large enough to interact with the room causing many peaks and nulls to be present. This can make properly setting subwoofers difficult. You can look at them as an extension of the room and speaker but the rules of small room acoustics make setting them up properly unique for each room and equipment, so i cannot just tell someone what is best. Small room acoustics are considered rooms under 15,000 cubic feet, so any room in any home, especially a living room or HT room fall under the category of small room acoustics. In such you need to always set your speakers to small no matter how big they are. Getting the low frequency to play right in small rooms requires a good bit of effort. Without measuring gear your really shooting blind. Saying that, most room correction software do an adequate job of setting distance but a poor job of setting crossovers.

Distance is a tricky thing to explain. The distance setting in a receiver or pre-amp is the Phase control of the speaker. Phase is hard to explain but in a rough definition it is the timing of the waveforms. When more than one wave meets they do different things according to when they meet each other. Once the waveform propagates from the speakers you want them to arrive to your ears at the same time (this is called in Phase). If they do not arrive at the same time then they can cancel each other out. These cancellations (nulls) can cover a decent chunk of the audio spectrum. This is very important for crossover settings in subwoofers, because the lower the frequency the longer the wave is and the larger the null at the crossover will be. The proper way to setup distance in a multichannel home theater without room correction is a long process.

If you have room correction such as Audyssey, YPAO, MCACC, DIRAC allow the software to set the distance. If you are curious to how to do it manually read on.

1. Place speakers and subs and measure them with a microphone at your listening spot.
2. Move the subwoofer around the room and measure only it ( not the speakers) until its measurement is as flat as possible ( this is very difficult for one subwoofer), you might even need to move your listening spot back or forward a bit as well, even a few inches can make a difference.
3. Measure the center channel + subwoofer. You will likely see a null in the frequency response centered at the crossover frequency. Now change the Subwoofers distance in the receiver's settings (not the center channel) until you see a an improvement in the null and keep changing and measuring until its as good as you can get it.
4. Measure each of the other speakers alone with the subwoofer and do the same thing except you will need to change the distance of each speaker not the subwoofer ( subwoofer has been time aligned with the center channel)

Hopefully my descrition of the process will help others understand what distance and crossover are.
 

Utnayan

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I cannot seem to find much on the way of frequency response curves for the Klipsch Quintent V. By looking at them I would set the crossover no lower than 120Hz. Those drivers look to be no larger than 4 inches, maybe 3.5 inches. They will have a lot of problems playing lower than 120hz, I'd let the subwoofer handle everything below that.

Distance and crossover are very much related and unless you have a way to measure the speakers and subwoofer you are just shooting in the dark. If anyone is interested wants an affordable way to measure their sound system purchase this microphone,Acoustic Measurement Tools : UMIK-1Then go and downloaded Room EQ Wizard,REW - Room EQ Wizard Room Acoustics Software

A crossover is a filter used to limit the audio spectrum of a speaker or driver. I would read the wiki article here, it has some decent pictures to help one get an understanding.Audio crossover - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Different drivers are more efficient at various parts of the audible spectrum crossovers are used to combine different drivers in a speaker to make sound over a wider frequency band. Subwoofers are difficult to work with due to small room acoustics. Their waveforms are large enough to interact with the room causing many peaks and nulls to be present. This can make properly setting subwoofers difficult. You can look at them as an extension of the room and speaker but the rules of small room acoustics make setting them up properly unique for each room and equipment, so i cannot just tell someone what is best. Small room acoustics are considered rooms under 15,000 cubic feet, so any room in any home, especially a living room or HT room fall under the category of small room acoustics. In such you need to always set your speakers to small no matter how big they are. Getting the low frequency to play right in small rooms requires a good bit of effort. Without measuring gear your really shooting blind. Saying that, most room correction software do an adequate job of setting distance but a poor job of setting crossovers.

Distance is a tricky thing to explain. The distance setting in a receiver or pre-amp is the Phase control of the speaker. Phase is hard to explain but in a rough definition it is the timing of the waveforms. When more than one wave meets they do different things according to when they meet each other. Once the waveform propagates from the speakers you want them to arrive to your ears at the same time (this is called in Phase). If they do not arrive at the same time then they can cancel each other out. These cancellations (nulls) can cover a decent chunk of the audio spectrum. This is very important for crossover settings in subwoofers, because the lower the frequency the longer the wave is and the larger the null at the crossover will be. The proper way to setup distance in a multichannel home theater without room correction is a long process.

If you have room correction such as Audyssey, YPAO, MCACC, DIRAC allow the software to set the distance. If you are curious to how to do it manually read on.

1. Place speakers and subs and measure them with a microphone at your listening spot.
2. Move the subwoofer around the room and measure only it ( not the speakers) until its measurement is as flat as possible ( this is very difficult for one subwoofer), you might even need to move your listening spot back or forward a bit as well, even a few inches can make a difference.
3. Measure the center channel + subwoofer. You will likely see a null in the frequency response centered at the crossover frequency. Now change the Subwoofers distance in the receiver's settings (not the center channel) until you see a an improvement in the null and keep changing and measuring until its as good as you can get it.
4. Measure each of the other speakers alone with the subwoofer and do the same thing except you will need to change the distance of each speaker not the subwoofer ( subwoofer has been time aligned with the center channel)

Hopefully my descrition of the process will help others understand what distance and crossover are.
This is awesome! Thanks buddy!!!!! Going to configure all this tonight so this helps an absolute ton. I'll be using YPAO again once I connect the Sub and will set all speakers to small.
smile.png
 

meStevo

I think your wife's a bigfoot gus.
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I'm slowly getting my living room together, just casual hobbyist level stuff.

Onkyo TX-NR747
Center/Surrounds:Energy Take 5 Pack 5 CH Home Theater Speaker System
Sub:Klipsch SW-350 Subwoofer
ATMOS add-ons:Pioneer SP-T22A-LR - Add-On Speakers
Floorstanding speakers:Sony SSF-7000 Floorstanding Speakers

60" Samsung TV is looking smaller and smaller as I add components, lol.

I only have 2 surrounds and the center set up. Probably going to give one of the wireless rear surround kits a shot. I'm missing the mounting hardware on the back of one of my surrounds... so might be the beginning of the end for this set. One of them sounds kinda funny so going to reseat the speaker cables (have since got banana plugs) and see if that fixes it. The ATMOS add-ons are nice, add a lot more detail than without and makes the sound coming at you feel a bit 'higher' though I need to tinker to get some things to feel more like they're overhead. I think that affect will be more successful when I have rear surrounds.

Like I said, casual hobbyist level, though we've spent a bit of money recently on it ($550 for the receiver, $150 for the floorstanding speakers from a friend, some cabling and speakers stands, etc). I already had everything else and replaced a shitty Denon that had a bad network and HDMI card or whatever in it. I have a large loft in our house that I could see turning into a nice home movie theater, but that'll be a while (like, a decade) when the kids are a bit older. That'll be approaching mid-life crisis time too, so I'll be able to blame that.
 

Utnayan

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I cannot seem to find much on the way of frequency response curves for the Klipsch Quintent V. By looking at them I would set the crossover no lower than 120Hz. Those drivers look to be no larger than 4 inches, maybe 3.5 inches. They will have a lot of problems playing lower than 120hz, I'd let the subwoofer handle everything below that.

Distance and crossover are very much related and unless you have a way to measure the speakers and subwoofer you are just shooting in the dark. If anyone is interested wants an affordable way to measure their sound system purchase this microphone,Acoustic Measurement Tools : UMIK-1Then go and downloaded Room EQ Wizard,REW - Room EQ Wizard Room Acoustics Software

A crossover is a filter used to limit the audio spectrum of a speaker or driver. I would read the wiki article here, it has some decent pictures to help one get an understanding.Audio crossover - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Different drivers are more efficient at various parts of the audible spectrum crossovers are used to combine different drivers in a speaker to make sound over a wider frequency band. Subwoofers are difficult to work with due to small room acoustics. Their waveforms are large enough to interact with the room causing many peaks and nulls to be present. This can make properly setting subwoofers difficult. You can look at them as an extension of the room and speaker but the rules of small room acoustics make setting them up properly unique for each room and equipment, so i cannot just tell someone what is best. Small room acoustics are considered rooms under 15,000 cubic feet, so any room in any home, especially a living room or HT room fall under the category of small room acoustics. In such you need to always set your speakers to small no matter how big they are. Getting the low frequency to play right in small rooms requires a good bit of effort. Without measuring gear your really shooting blind. Saying that, most room correction software do an adequate job of setting distance but a poor job of setting crossovers.

Distance is a tricky thing to explain. The distance setting in a receiver or pre-amp is the Phase control of the speaker. Phase is hard to explain but in a rough definition it is the timing of the waveforms. When more than one wave meets they do different things according to when they meet each other. Once the waveform propagates from the speakers you want them to arrive to your ears at the same time (this is called in Phase). If they do not arrive at the same time then they can cancel each other out. These cancellations (nulls) can cover a decent chunk of the audio spectrum. This is very important for crossover settings in subwoofers, because the lower the frequency the longer the wave is and the larger the null at the crossover will be. The proper way to setup distance in a multichannel home theater without room correction is a long process.

If you have room correction such as Audyssey, YPAO, MCACC, DIRAC allow the software to set the distance. If you are curious to how to do it manually read on.

1. Place speakers and subs and measure them with a microphone at your listening spot.
2. Move the subwoofer around the room and measure only it ( not the speakers) until its measurement is as flat as possible ( this is very difficult for one subwoofer), you might even need to move your listening spot back or forward a bit as well, even a few inches can make a difference.
3. Measure the center channel + subwoofer. You will likely see a null in the frequency response centered at the crossover frequency. Now change the Subwoofers distance in the receiver's settings (not the center channel) until you see a an improvement in the null and keep changing and measuring until its as good as you can get it.
4. Measure each of the other speakers alone with the subwoofer and do the same thing except you will need to change the distance of each speaker not the subwoofer ( subwoofer has been time aligned with the center channel)

Hopefully my descrition of the process will help others understand what distance and crossover are.
Hey Forin one last question and thanks for all the help
smile.png


I configured everything last night and the new sub sounds awesome. I did YPAO over again and it sounds better than ever before from the 5 speakers as well, and changed them all to small. One last quick question on Low Crossover on my sub. I have read that I should max this knob out as it allows the receiver to use the other high crossover setting. Thoughts?