Woodworking

Kovaks

Kovaks

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Lanx said:
this blade is at an all time low of 36bucks Freud 10" x 24T Thin Kerf Rip Blade (LU87R010)

i just know this brand and diablo are what ppl talk about
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I love my Freud blades, I have the full kerf flat top rip blade and it rips like butter and is great for dados and joinery. If you don't mind switching it out for good cross cut blade it is awesome, if you hate changing blades just splurge for a forest woodworker 2 I guess
 
Intrinsic

Intrinsic

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BrutulTM said:
View attachment 317053
View attachment 317054

This is a project I did for my 3 year old nephew a few months back. I seriously underestimated the difficulty of making those angled mortise and tenon joints. A router wasn't really an option because of the angles so I made them with a chisel and had to make almost every piece more than once because I split it in half trying to cut those mortises. The resulting joints aren't very straight or very tight but with enough epoxy they filled up. There's a million ways to make this thing more easily but it was a good learning experience, or at least a lesson in managing rage.
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That's awesome and looks great.

Will post an update on my entertainment center here shortly. Has been delayed a ton because of work. Also changed the way I'm doing assembly and I only have 10 clamps, so gluing everything up is taking a bit. Did a side project last weekend I'll try to post.
 
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whoo

whoo

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Kovaks said:
I love my Freud blades, I have the full kerf flat top rip blade and it rips like butter and is great for dados and joinery. If you don't mind switching it out for good cross cut blade it is awesome, if you hate changing blades just splurge for a forest woodworker 2 I guess
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I'll second the Forrest Woodworker II blade. I dont use a dedicated rip blade unless I'm cutting rare /expnsive wood, and then i usually use a bandsaw for the thin kerf. The Forrest blade cuts flawlessly in rip or cross.
 
Hatorade

Hatorade

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Yall make some cool shit, I just started get into some basic carpentry. Figured out good use for a chisel, notching 4x4s to fit a 2x4.
always wanted a large mobile work bench so I made one.
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Hatorade

Hatorade

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Used scraps from my halfpipe build to make a needed bench for the local spot.
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Intrinsic

Intrinsic

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Just a little update since my vacation started today and will hopefully get real progress done.

The top and middle shelves are currently slated to be 5' long a piece with the base being 7' long. So I'm cutting down 8' long 1x3s in to 30" sections and building them up in to 4 layers each. For a few reasons...

4 of them stacked is 3" which is both the width of my electric hand planer and the maximum height my table saw can cut. So it will give me a couple of options for planing them.
Also because when I tested different lengths it was much more difficult laying out 4+ of them at the full 5', 6' or 8' lengths, getting them clamped, etc... Believe the final build will have 20 layers which would make it 15" deep... may need another layer now that I'm typing that.

The ends are staggered and I have them labeled A > A, B > B, etc so that when I go to join them end to end it should mate up well. Have been jointing them on the table saw, just crosscutting like 1/32nd or 1/16th off the ends.

I'm still convinced this is the most roundabout and annoyingly complicated way to achieve this, but it is fun and I'm learning stuff!

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In the mean time waiting for glue to dry I decided to redo my kitchen drawer silverware organizer with some red oak hobby boards laying around. Was putting a coat of lacquer on it.

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Kovaks

Kovaks

Mr. Poopybutthole
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My 2 current projects

Ukulele for my son from the stew mac kit
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And a desk for my friend, she wants 2 drawers, so we will see how that goes, sanding the tabletop today and then laying out the apron and drawers next

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Kovaks

Kovaks

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When you already started your glue up an realize your off 1/32 on you sides, glad I built a decent cross cut sled
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Starting to come together

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C

Captain Suave

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Kovaks Kovaks - is that a DWE7491RS? I have one which I generally like except that the miter slots are loose and several tens of thousandths out of parallel with each other and the blade. Do you have any such trouble?
 
Kovaks

Kovaks

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C Captain Suave Mine is the dwe7485, which is the 8.5 inch version, works for my small garage shop, but saving for a sawstop once we move and I get more garage space.

I don't have any issues with the miter slots not being parallel, there was alot of wiggle in the stock miter guage, I fixed that with some blue tape,

for my sleds I use rockler's adjustable miter bars, they jave a little rubber screw to make sure you get no wiggle. I think woodcraft have a version too.

My only real complaint with the saw is that mine doesn't take a dado stack, but I make due.
 
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Intrinsic

Intrinsic

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My Rigid doesn't take a dado stack either and I've just made do as well. It was one of the first "shop" items I bought and didn't want to drop $700 on a table saw to learn on.

Need to rebuild my cross cut sled at some point, my runners are sooooooo close but just that last fraction of a fraction off and the tiny bit of play is so apparent. Have a couple of the runners Kovaks was talking about on my Amazon Christmas list. Also a Grabber or whatever push thing which I realized I needed trying to cut the runners and my finger was a cunt hair away from the blade.

Was messing around today and doing a tune up on my table saw. The throat plate that came with the Rigid wasn't 100% flush with the surface so spent a while leveling it out. Also spent a while adjusting the 0 degree stop on the bevel so that it is easier and more accurate to lock it to 90. Had an 80T finishing blade sitting around for why I have no idea, didn't buy it with the table saw, it was just in a box in the garage. Noticed that the motor audibly changes trying to cut with it vs the blade that came with the saw. Need to research that. Is there a tooth count vs. HP chart? Makes sense I guess since it is trying to drag more blade through the wood, just didn't occur to me before experiencing it.
 
Kovaks

Kovaks

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Intrinsic said:
My Rigid doesn't take a dado stack either and I've just made do as well. It was one of the first "shop" items I bought and didn't want to drop $700 on a table saw to learn on.

Need to rebuild my cross cut sled at some point, my runners are sooooooo close but just that last fraction of a fraction off and the tiny bit of play is so apparent. Have a couple of the runners Kovaks was talking about on my Amazon Christmas list. Also a Grabber or whatever push thing which I realized I needed trying to cut the runners and my finger was a cunt hair away from the blade.

Was messing around today and doing a tune up on my table saw. The throat plate that came with the Rigid wasn't 100% flush with the surface so spent a while leveling it out. Also spent a while adjusting the 0 degree stop on the bevel so that it is easier and more accurate to lock it to 90. Had an 80T finishing blade sitting around for why I have no idea, didn't buy it with the table saw, it was just in a box in the garage. Noticed that the motor audibly changes trying to cut with it vs the blade that came with the saw. Need to research that. Is there a tooth count vs. HP chart? Makes sense I guess since it is trying to drag more blade through the wood, just didn't occur to me before experiencing it.
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I have the Grripper and it is great, feels safe and helps with alot of cuts, especially small cuts.

Were you ripping or cross cutting with the finishing blade? The more teeth the less it can clear sawdust so it has to work a bit harder.
 
Intrinsic

Intrinsic

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Kovaks said:
I have the Grripper and it is great, feels safe and helps with alot of cuts, especially small cuts.

Were you ripping or cross cutting with the finishing blade? The more teeth the less it can clear sawdust so it has to work a bit harder.
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Was cross cutting the 1x3s on their face, so clearing about what... 3/4" high and 2.5"? It wasn't smoking or scaring the wood or anything, just the tone of the motor noticeably changed. I have an actual Freud cross cut blade and rip blade coming tomorrow from Amazon.
 
Kovaks

Kovaks

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Corner key dowels for mitered corners

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Need a little clean up with the plane still
 
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Intrinsic

Intrinsic

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Okay, referring back to my previous post, finished making the batches and went to glue them up today. Problem is that despite my best efforts of pre-jointing and using each end as the other's jig, it appears my glue up (and probably jointing on the table sled) wasn't precise enough and so I've got different sized little gaps in the middle of random amounts. Tried to fix them but was driving me insane and just re-cutting the segments to length wasn't really working. To give you an idea:

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However, it brought up another issue. I seriously underestimated the weight of this thing. I'm not entirely convinced a 2.5" overlap like that will support the weight of this. Granted it will only be holding like a 65" TV spanning the length of the shelf, but still. That's 5' long and 20 wide. Was going to work out the math on the weight but am on vacation.

So trying to consider how to address both issues at the same time.

What if I routed a 3/4" x 3/4" deep channel along the tops of the 1x3s say 12" across those joins and went back and dropped in a different type of wood. I could leave them staggered like it shows do one 6" and one 8" of a contrasting wood color and it would look intentional and a design. Just not sure if that would address any of the structural by just increasing the face area that is going across that pivot or joint.

This is just the middle shelf of the design so still using it to play, and don't really consider anything wasted. Everything is salvageable!
 
C

Captain Suave

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Intrinsic said:
I seriously underestimated the weight of this thing. I'm not entirely convinced a 2.5" overlap like that will support the weight of this.
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As long as you got good closure on the side of those fingers you should be fine. A joint with modern glue is stronger than the wood itself, so your configuration should be roughly equivalent to a solid piece with some narrow through mortices. If you really want to test, clamp one end to your bench and sit on the overhang. I bet it doesn't even flex. If you watch destructive tests like the following, even shallow fingers can take 100-200+ lbs of force (and when they fail, it's the wood).


Cosmetically speaking, you could glue some wedges in the gaps and pass all but close inspections. Anything exotic like routing channels for inlay would be strictly on you for the aesthetic appeal.
 
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