Woodworking

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Intrinsic

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Thanks! 7 minutes in but have to take a break to get dinner ready.

The model he exports from the website is what I can do with my work software, but cool to see it as a web service. The greyscale model he just started showing off around 7 minutes is exactly what I'm hoping some CNC software will accept. I can make those as easy as the 3d models, BUT its the easiest way for me to apply graphics and text to a 2.5D model (because I can just use a graphics program and transparency settings to essentially make it a terrain offset). Exactly what I was hoping for and if Vcarve is unique in that respect, I'd definitely go that route

Oh that is cool for sure. I have all the 1/3 arc second DEM data for work. Didn’t occur to me to do CNC stuff like that.

No new hobbies! No! Bad Intrinsic!
 
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Bandwagon

Kolohe
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Heres an idea if you come up short on converting from layers to gcode:.


If the site he uses doesn't have your topography, you can use the same process by making a greyscale image of your layers.
Thanks whoo whoo
I'm going to move this over to the laser thread since it's kind of offtopic here.
There was some good tips in there and this is sure as hell easier than the way I was going to do it. The site the guy showed in his video has the option to upload a kml for extents, too.
*mesh files from this site are huge, around 55mb. waiting for it to load still, but I'm guessing it's a higher sample spacing than the one below. I'll edit in a picture when it loads.
edit - here's a screenshot of this bigass mesh
1649220772857.png




Here's another I found - Terrain2STL
1649215377087.png
 
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Soygen

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So I'm getting ready to build a terrarium for the kids, for a bearded dragon. After doing some research, I've settled on Melamine as the main component for the box(along with some sort of glass doors that open on the front). I am loath to work with particle board/melamine, but it's plastic veneer makes for a good, cleanable surface for the lizard. What's the best way to hold this box together? Just pilot holes and screws?
 

Captain Suave

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So I'm getting ready to build a terrarium for the kids, for a bearded dragon. After doing some research, I've settled on Melamine as the main component for the box(along with some sort of glass doors that open on the front). I am loath to work with particle board/melamine, but it's plastic veneer makes for a good, cleanable surface for the lizard. What's the best way to hold this box together? Just pilot holes and screws?
You need to use drywall screws or something else with deeper threads than wood screws, but yes, that's the easiest way. Otherwise you can strip the plastic layers and glue, or use dowels or whatever, but that's off the work/reward scale IMO.
 
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Soygen

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You need to use drywall screws or something else with deeper threads than wood screws, but yes, that's the easiest way. Otherwise you can strip the plastic layers and glue, or use dowels or whatever, but that's off the work/reward scale IMO.
Yeah, definitely not trying to put the normal attention to detail on this. Good call on the drywall screws. I was also considering using some kind of bracing piece in the 4 inside corners and then using lag bolts to pull it all together and make it easier to disassemble if needed(it's going to be pretty big), but will see how sturdy it feels with just the screws to start.
 

BrutulTM

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I don't know if you're planning to seal the inside with silicone or some other kind of caulk but if you do make sure it's not the stuff for bathrooms or kitchens, just 100% silicone. The bathroom stuff has poison in it to kill mold/mildew but it can kill other things as well. A few people have learned the hard way building their own aquariums and then everything dies because they used anti-mildew caulk.
 
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Intrinsic

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One coat of TotalBoat Wood Sealer. Pretty happy with how it went on and what it has currently done to the oak. We'll see after coat 2 and 3. It isn't perfect but I'm happy with the amount of time I spent fixing little things. There really wasn't too much. I think this is going to be the front where the door will attach.

The door went together "okay" all things considered. I had to nudge a panel slightly b/c it was leaving too much of a gap in the rail and stile. I think I was a little off on the groove around just one of the panels it it wasn't square and was throwing the whole assembly off. Didn't snap a shot of the back after taking the clamps off. Since the inside of the door can be used as a table it was important that it was flat and solid. So I still need to sand it a bit where things were 100% flush to my liking.

I'll finish it up tonight, do a second coat on the bar, and a first coat on the door.

IMG-3597.jpg
67089532052--3AF0F587-546A-451B-AA82-EF3A2F4951F3.jpg
 
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lurker

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So I'm getting ready to build a terrarium for the kids, for a bearded dragon. After doing some research, I've settled on Melamine as the main component for the box(along with some sort of glass doors that open on the front). I am loath to work with particle board/melamine, but it's plastic veneer makes for a good, cleanable surface for the lizard. What's the best way to hold this box together? Just pilot holes and screws?
Kreg Pocket Hole Jig

I would buy a pretty basic version if this project is all you think you'll be doing.
 
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Intrinsic

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I use the R3 and have recently considered stepping up to the K4. But the R3 works just fine really.


 
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lurker

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So I'm getting ready to build a terrarium for the kids, for a bearded dragon. After doing some research, I've settled on Melamine as the main component for the box(along with some sort of glass doors that open on the front). I am loath to work with particle board/melamine, but it's plastic veneer makes for a good, cleanable surface for the lizard. What's the best way to hold this box together? Just pilot holes and screws?
I've been thinkin' that if you don't want to work with melamine, and I don't blame you, there are alternatives. Particle board is awful.

I built a large litter box for a very large cat out of plywood, painted the outside to match the room it's in and brushed on 4 coats of water-based polyurethane on the inside. It is practically waterproof and has stood up for about 3 years now. Minwax Polycrylic was the brand and it is very easy to work with. You can put on 4 coats in a day. More if you want.

If you want something that is even more durable, you could paint on a layer of fiberglass resin. It's a bit messier and you need to do it outdoors but it's forever and you don't need to use the glass mat unless you want to. It'll hold water when your done.
 
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Goatface

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So I'm getting ready to build a terrarium for the kids, for a bearded dragon.

based on what i have seen and liked, think i would use plywood, poly that and cover that with pavers then carpet. it is probably best to figure out what you want to use as bedding and building around that size. like if using carpet, normal size is 18" x 36", so i would plan on using 18"x18" pieces just to make it easier to remove and clean.
 
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BrutulTM

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There's an epoxy product called "Pond Shield" that people use to build plywood aquariums. Might be overkill for a lizard habitat but it would make it totally waterproof.

 
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Soygen

The Dirty Dozen For the Price of One
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I already have the melamine sheet, so have pretty much settled on the material at this point. Will likely go with pocket holes. I have a Kreg jig already as well. Can I still use drywall screws in the pocket holes in place of the special pocket hole screws?
 

lurker

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I already have the melamine sheet, so have pretty much settled on the material at this point. Will likely go with pocket holes. I have a Kreg jig already as well. Can I still use drywall screws in the pocket holes in place of the special pocket hole screws?
You shouldn’t.
 

Soygen

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Ok, will just stick with the pocket screws then. Yeah, as much I don't like using particle board for anything, I want to use up this sheet and this project is something that doesn't need to look great. Just needs to hold together and not kill this lizard.
 
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bigmark268

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So I've got my grandfathers old 47 delta unisaw. And I started doing some work on the table so far. I forgot a pic before working on it. But it was a good deep orange. thst spot on the extension is really deeply pitted. So that's staying I guess.

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20220404_072015.jpg


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Bandwagon

Kolohe
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A few weeks ago, a few of you were talking about learning to trust the previous cut to measure the next, instead of using the tape every time. Thanks for that. I thought I was being a good boy by always measuring twice before each cut, but I'd still always get 1-2mm of slop. Put together 2x tabletops yesterday and everything fit really well. I tried 45d miters again and they're much better than my last attempt. 3 of the 4 on each table are perfect top to bottom. Each has 1 corner that looks like a 0.5mm, consistent gap. Not all that mad about it.

I started actually using the wood conditioner, and like a true expert, actually following the instructions. Big improvement on the appearance (pine).

Also, there's a rental house down the street and the owner kicked out the tenants last month. He's right across the street from my mother in law and she was chatting him up last week. He's a 65yo retired carpenter that's moving in to his rental. Mother in law was telling him about me and said "he's really handy, but he's trying to make furniture now and he's frustrated he doesn't know how to do any of that type of woodworking". She said he got excited and wants to work with me on some stuff (and burst out laughing when she told him I just got a hand planer). She told him what I do for work and about the laser cutter and what not, then the guy told her we're already best friends and he'll bring a 6 pack over next weekend.

So, sounds like I finally got my wish. Some old shitbird to sit in the shop with me and heckle me while I'm fucking stuff up. I might wander over there today with my daughter and introduce myself. He built some chicken coop mansion I want to check out anyways.
 
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Intrinsic

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A few weeks ago, a few of you were talking about learning to trust the previous cut to measure the next, instead of using the tape every time. Thanks for that. I thought I was being a good boy by always measuring twice before each cut, but I'd still always get 1-2mm of slop.

You still have 1-2mm of slop but at least it is consistent now :p

Should finish off my Murphy Bar tonight. Waiting on last coat to dry. Will post pics. I'm mostly happy but like everything could point out the 1,000 problems and for about 950 of them I at least can see how/why it exists and how to better plan next time.