3d Printing and the Future of Piracy

I turned it on! Nothing blew up!

Bit of trouble getting the firmware flashed, but it got sorted. Imported my config with the correct pin mappings and fixed the config error popups. Tomorrow i go through and test each component - endstops, fans, heaters, and motors last. Checking voltages and function. Motors last because if an endstops fails to trigger from a bad crimp i haven't caught and the motors fly in the wrong direction something could break. Anyways, all temps are accurate and stable! See! Interface! Shiny!

After much fiddling i have completed my first print! Klipper is really explicit with it's bounding box, and setting up a z-endstop point outside the print area on x, y, and z was more difficult than expected. By default the firmware assumes that the z endstop is Z=0 even though the pin is 3mm above and 6mm to the rear of the print area. The Z offset was especially tricky and needed more than a few rounds of 1-layer 20mm cubes in grids across the entire bed each with a descending -0.01mm z_offset_adjust to get the layer height right. I went from piss poor adhesions to solid adhesion and no gaps between the lines after 36 samples. Now that i have first layers down my next print i canceled because the slicer profile was set for default abs with no part fan. The print was melty and curling bad. I'm in an enclosure now so 40% fan after layer 4 and boom. I'd say this looks damn good with absolutely no tuning of the extruder, pressure, resonance, etc. I can see under extrusion and resonance in this print so even better prints to come!

Now that Klipper knows my explicit bounding box and all endstops and the inductive probe are calibrated to within 0.0025mm range (essentially the inaccuracy inherent in the switch contact) I enabled Bed Mesh. After heat soaking the bed at 100c for 30m i ran a calibration to generate a map and see my surface flatness. 6mm cast aluminum machined plate, magnetic sheet, double sided spring steel sheet with textured/smooth pei. 0.063mm variance form low spot to high spot. That's pretty fucking flat.

Check the feedpath to see if there are plastic shards on the extruder gear. If so, bump your temps up because your getting extruder skipping since it cant push the plastic through the nozzle fast enough. Have you done a pid tune on your hotend yet? Pretty frequent among folks swapping out hotends is getting the temps right vs your old settings.

Oh, i must have misread. Hmm. You running direct drive or bowden? DD should have a retract distance of less than 1mm. Bowden setups between 3-5, to accommodate slop in the tube. Have you calibrated your extruder steps? It's usually a process of measure and mark 100mm on your filament, send a command to extrude 100m filament, then measure the actual distance against the mark do some math and input the new value. The old extruder motor may have had fewer steps and so you're under extruding and not knowing it.

edit: went back a few pages and saw you have a cr6 max. Direct Drive. Yeah pid tune is to stabilize temps of the hotend by calibrating the heater response. That was the wrong call, though still a good thing to do on any printer.