3d Printing and the Future of Piracy
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Hydromarty
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Carbon Nylon is why I got into printing, yesterday. Haven't got the metal hot end/ extruder installed, printing the shroud in PLA now. The Carbon is in the mail. But TPU has caught my interest too now that I have a printer
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Hydromarty
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Started the upgrade to microswiss at 630 am. Finished at 1pm. Still struggling to complie the offset to firmware. And it made the screen landscape
Hydromarty
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I tried to change the offsets, because the home position moved. Almost have it figured out. The new firmware is better though, mesh leveling. Printing this TPU spring/cable management solution
Hydromarty
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Hekotat
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Do yourself a favor, send it back and get Overture, lol. I haven't tried that brand but the other alternative I tried to Overture ran like shit and was super stringy.
Settings vary so wildly from printer to printer that I can't give you a ton of help in that degree.
Hekotat
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Hydromarty
Best tip I can give you for Carbon fiber and Carbon fiber PLA is to use a glass bed with hairspray (Light spray, heavy amount and a part with a ton of surface area will not pull off easily). Retraction setting are crucial for CF & CF/PLA and do not go too high (Past 4 or 5) on distance or it will cause clogs.
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Hydromarty
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Is Carbon Fiber the common name for the nylon carbon blend?
Retraction setting are crucial for CF & CF/PLA and do not go too high (Past 4 or 5) on distance or it will cause clogs.
I'll let you know how it is. Maybe start with nuckles dusters? Haha
This TPU cord wrap at 20mm and .1mm thickness looks good enough I think other than the shitty clean up
The_Black_Log Foler
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Hekotat
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The NylonX from Matterhackers is some badass shit, I only printed with it a few times on a bad printer from a few years ago. I will get more but it's pricey. I like the Overture Carbon Fiber PLA. It's pretty tough and it doesn't break the bank.
What I did for my bed was just flip it over, it seems you have the same type. You get better stick and a flatter bed due to that rubber coating not coming off over time.
What I did for my bed was just flip it over, it seems you have the same type. You get better stick and a flatter bed due to that rubber coating not coming off over time.
Hydromarty
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The matter hackers use a 25% carbon 75% nylon, like the SainSmart amazon shit. I'll let you know how it is. Half price compared to matter hackers
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Hydromarty
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TPU 25% infill, somehow it printed straight up 5 inches. Had to break it free obvs, but it protecs
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eSun makes good cheap abs. Their ABS+ is considered easy to print by abs standards. Hatchbox/overture is consistently good. Matterhackers makes really good filament all around, though it runs on the higher side of price. I've got an order in with Keene Village Plastics as KVP makes some fantastic colors. I currently have eSun, KVP, and Hatchbox filaments.
Prusament, filamentium, proto-pasta are all very solid brands i haven't tried but heard good things about.
Tip on colors - depending on the pigment used and amount added, some colors can be weaker than others structurally. Most of the time it's a compelte non-issue. You'll see folks talk about staying away from White as to get a good white it takes a lot of pigment. We can also talk wear here - some filaments are very abrasive and will wear your nozzle. CF, glow-in-the-dark, wood/copper fills, etc. It's absolutly not worth buying expensive nozzles with ruby and ultrahardened steel or w/e. Just have a couple extra nozzles on hand and replace them occasionally.
Prusament, filamentium, proto-pasta are all very solid brands i haven't tried but heard good things about.
Tip on colors - depending on the pigment used and amount added, some colors can be weaker than others structurally. Most of the time it's a compelte non-issue. You'll see folks talk about staying away from White as to get a good white it takes a lot of pigment. We can also talk wear here - some filaments are very abrasive and will wear your nozzle. CF, glow-in-the-dark, wood/copper fills, etc. It's absolutly not worth buying expensive nozzles with ruby and ultrahardened steel or w/e. Just have a couple extra nozzles on hand and replace them occasionally.
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Build update. Spent the past week doing various small things and trying to figure out one big thing. I was hoping to begin wiring as that was essentially where i left off before life took over and i had to walk away for awhile but that hasn't happened yet. Small things like getting the cable chains just right - length, positioning. Installing end stops. Prepping the bed by adhering the heater mat/temp probe/thermal fuse/magnetic mat. Rebuilt the toolhead (knew i had to do this) so i could install a breakout board and get the wiring right. Took the opportunity to smooth out the filament feed path too. Verifying frame was square (it was). Prepping the electronics bay with DIN rails and installing the outlet/switch. Replacing button head cap screws with lower profile heads in some places due to clearance.
Ran into an issue related to keeping the belts tensioned (what i now know was over tensioned) when i walked away that caused a racking of the gantry (out of square) that i couldn't correct. Ended up Removing the belts, loosening most of the bolts on the gantry and realigning everything. Rebelted the gantry and properly tensioned this time. That took most of yesterday because i had to spend alot of time remembering things i had forgotten about layout. Running the belts through the tension adjustment idlers was a pita. If i had to do it again right now it would take me 30m tops. Cest la vie, this is still fun for me. Now everything is right according to measurements and my machinist square, to within 1mm or less. Really happy right now.
After lunch i'm going to run the main wiring harness through the gantry and then begin work installing the electronics. Rpi 4b 4gb, Octopus 1.1 main board, 24v psu, and get the 110 wiring done. Still need to print the mount for my 5" touchscreen but that can wait.
BTW the accent color is KVP Dark Teal. It looks blue in the picture but i can assure you it is a very rich dark teal color, gorgeous to see though i have yet to take a picture that accurately represents the color.
Ran into an issue related to keeping the belts tensioned (what i now know was over tensioned) when i walked away that caused a racking of the gantry (out of square) that i couldn't correct. Ended up Removing the belts, loosening most of the bolts on the gantry and realigning everything. Rebelted the gantry and properly tensioned this time. That took most of yesterday because i had to spend alot of time remembering things i had forgotten about layout. Running the belts through the tension adjustment idlers was a pita. If i had to do it again right now it would take me 30m tops. Cest la vie, this is still fun for me. Now everything is right according to measurements and my machinist square, to within 1mm or less. Really happy right now.
After lunch i'm going to run the main wiring harness through the gantry and then begin work installing the electronics. Rpi 4b 4gb, Octopus 1.1 main board, 24v psu, and get the 110 wiring done. Still need to print the mount for my 5" touchscreen but that can wait.
BTW the accent color is KVP Dark Teal. It looks blue in the picture but i can assure you it is a very rich dark teal color, gorgeous to see though i have yet to take a picture that accurately represents the color.
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Hekotat
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Hydromarty
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Envious*
Anyways , this is an idea I had. Not sure if I love it yet. So far it's nice..
THIS simple print took under 2 hrs in TPU at .1mm layer height, 220deg 55 bed 25mm speed. 25%infill It made about a 7 inch cable wrap. It's a 50% scale (2.5in tall) of another one that took 15hrs, also pictured. Both pictured installed. With work they pull apart after printing.
Hydromarty
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DIY on Fusion 360: Extrude a .375 hole 5 inches, create wrap with 'coil' 30 revolutions, size appropriately. I used square profile for better printing but now I'm curious if circle works