3d Printing and the Future of Piracy

Hex

Hex

Lord Nagafen Raider
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rush02112 said:
So finally talked work into ordering a 3d printer for rapid proto-typing. We also ordered the MK3. None of us have any expirence with 3d printing so do you or any of you others have tips for us?

Will be using Autodesk Inventor (advanced knowledge) for our models and Slic3r (novice)
Click to expand...
For the most part the presets defined in Slic3r PE will be optimized for what you're looking to print in terms of print speed. For materials and retraction testing you'll want to run a heat tower and retraction test, sometimes the default temp values aren't the ideal ones for different filament makers. Both of those will help you dial things in for optimal material temperature and your retraction settings will help prevent or at least reduce stringing based on the material you use (PETG is stringy as hell)

The Y-Axis stepper motor can get noisy it seems to be related to the Y-Axis motor vibrating when moving at high speed for infill. Didn't notice it until after I had made the original post. Good news is you can print Prusa MK3 Y-Axis Motor Mount (juiced) with End Stop by jlnevill and it'll reduce it just make sure all the screws holding the motor are tight.

Look into getting a Pi 3 B and print a case for it. You can connect it to the printer via USB and use it to control your prints from a web interface, also the plug-ins are really useful i.e. you can download plugins that will visualize the mesh leveling information into a heat map so you can see where your bed is out of alignment. For the most part the auto levelling compensates for it but dialing it in isn't a bad idea. Also if you want to do timelapses that function is built into it.
 
Hex

Hex

Lord Nagafen Raider
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389
Also I got all of the covers printed for the wired panels, i'm also in the progress of adding more. I am really happy with how this turned out:

 
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Hex

Hex

Lord Nagafen Raider
404
389
Hex

Hex

Lord Nagafen Raider
404
389
Newly printed, Doom Guy Figurine from the 2016 game. Once my multi-color filament thing shows up i'm going to make the one that plays the 8-bit original doom music. Starting to get a little annoyed with Mosaic over a month since order and not even a "Hey you can expect it by X date"

(album)

And final post about my light panels (I promise) I went back and reworked the wiring so the Male connector is the input and then I was able to add two female outputs which opens up a possibility of more combinations/shapes.

Shitty drawing of what I was trying to do:

End Result:
 
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rush02112

rush02112

Golden Knight of the Realm
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Hex said:
For the most part the presets defined in Slic3r PE will be optimized for what you're looking to print in terms of print speed. For materials and retraction testing you'll want to run a heat tower and retraction test, sometimes the default temp values aren't the ideal ones for different filament makers. Both of those will help you dial things in for optimal material temperature and your retraction settings will help prevent or at least reduce stringing based on the material you use (PETG is stringy as hell)
Click to expand...

Ok we finally got the kit put together and I spent about 4 hours trying to figure out how to get slic3r to set the heat temps for layers without any progress. Can you give me a copy of the code you used to do it or point me in the direction to learn it?

Also we also tried the retraction tests and while we did get better results from what we started with, we still had alot of stringing. I know each machine is different, but can you screen shot your settings for your mk3 and I can start with that and go from there?

Thanks in advance!
 
Hex

Hex

Lord Nagafen Raider
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389
Just to make sure I get my settings right what material are you printing? PLA?
 
Hex

Hex

Lord Nagafen Raider
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Testing the tower out really fast to see if I can get it it work. The retraction settings I have specified for PLA is Retraction distance: 0.8, 35mm/s speed. Will link the gcode if I get it working.
 
Hex

Hex

Lord Nagafen Raider
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Yea 0.4, ok so I think I figured out where that person went wrong. The layer change code is supposed to go into the "Before Layer Change" section i.e. i'm using:

Code: 
;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE
G92 E0.0
{if layer_z ==2.00}M104 S240; change temp to 240C at layer height of 2.00mm{endif}
{if layer_z ==9.000}M104 S235; change temp to 235C at layer height of 9mm{endif}
{if layer_z ==16.200}M104 S230; change temp to 230C at layer height of 16.2mm{endif}
{if layer_z ==23.200}M104 S225; change temp to 225C at layer height of 23.2mm{endif}
{if layer_z ==30.200}M104 S220; change temp to 220C at layer height of 30.2mm{endif}
{if layer_z ==37.200}M104 S215; change temp to 215C at layer height of 37.2mm{endif}
{if layer_z ==44.200}M104 S210; change temp to 210C at layer height of 44.2mm{endif}
{if layer_z ==51.200}M104 S205; change temp to 205C at layer height of 51.2mm{endif}
{if layer_z ==58.200}M104 S200; change temp to 200C at layer height of 58.2mm{endif}
{if layer_z ==65.200}M104 S195; change temp to 195C at layer height of 65.2mm{endif}
{if layer_z ==72.200}M104 S190; change temp to 190C at layer height of 72.2mm{endif}
{if layer_z ==79.200}M104 S185; change temp to 185C at layer height of 79.2mm{endif}
{if layer_z ==86.200}M104 S180; change temp to 180C at layer height of 86.2mm{endif}
;[layer_z]
 
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Hex

Hex

Lord Nagafen Raider
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Just a heads up you might be able to nix the 180, by default Prusa printers will stop feeding at 180 I think because it can't extrude PLA at that temp.
 
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Hex

Hex

Lord Nagafen Raider
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@a_skeleton_03
Updates on Prusa models, looks like they identified some resolution to the MMU2 issues that are actually fixed via printer upgrades vs changes to the MMU2
 
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rush02112

rush02112

Golden Knight of the Realm
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So the retraction setting you have are the defualts. I reset mine to the defaults and got this result. Is this acceptable or should I try to tweak it for less?

IMG_20190213_082119.jpg
 
rush02112

rush02112

Golden Knight of the Realm
274
203
I have the temp tower going, the temp is changing and will see which temp has the least amount of stringing then do another retraction test with that temp
 
Hex

Hex

Lord Nagafen Raider
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389
The temp should help a bit once you identify the best for print quality however if you're still getting stringing you can also up the retraction speed a bit or increase the retraction distance a sight bit more until the results are decent. Some filament it's just hard to get rid of entirely like eSUN PLA+ it strings out a bit more than typical PLA.
 
rush02112

rush02112

Golden Knight of the Realm
274
203
Yea we have 30 mins left on the heat tower and it has almost no stringing compare to the retraction tower. I used the same settings for both prints. Kind of at a loss why one would be so stringy and the other not. I will post a pick of the tower when it is complete. I did not expect the heat tower to take 2.5 hours to print though; guess I didnt really know what to expect for times in the first place.
 
Hex

Hex

Lord Nagafen Raider
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Heat towers can be time consuming since they are low infill and a lot of perimeter walls and bridging so they're slow precise movements vs the 200 mm/s that larger infill heavy objects have.
 
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