Car ?'s

Burren

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Ya, this will come off lame as feck but I haven't purchased a "normie" (non German) car in a long time - last was a GMC pickup and the dealer was really good and gave me a nice discount. I suspect you will be right, and if that ends up being the case I'll wait until next summer or fall when they start flooding lots across the country.

Always a rush on first year releases (unless its a dog). There will be mark ups because they can get away with it. If you aren't in a rush, you'll save a bunch long term, but you already know that, so that's good!
 
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Whidon

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Anyone ever have electronic issues in high heat?

I have a 2012 Toyota Yaris. Recently when i turn it on in the high heat and humidity days we get now in RI the power steering, Turn signals, Ac, power windows, and airbag light will not turn on for generally 30 secs to 10 mins.

Usually takes a min or two on avg. Its annoying as i cant really drive it without the turn signals. So i have to wait to use it.

Looked on google cant find shit on this. Car has been super low mainttenance . Save the electronics. As ive had plenty of small issues before like the AC rarely not working. Radio rarely not working ect..

My income took a big hit via covid. So i dont wanna replace the yaris till 21 at earliest.
 

Burren

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I'd check fuses and coil packs. Neither like tons of heat or moisture and given the car's age, either could be compromised.
 
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Lambourne

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Could be many things but battery and alternator are the first things I'd check. Do you have a digital voltmeter?
 
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Burns

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Anyone ever have electronic issues in high heat?

I have a 2012 Toyota Yaris. Recently when i turn it on in the high heat and humidity days we get now in RI the power steering, Turn signals, Ac, power windows, and airbag light will not turn on for generally 30 secs to 10 mins.

Usually takes a min or two on avg. Its annoying as i cant really drive it without the turn signals. So i have to wait to use it.

Looked on google cant find shit on this. Car has been super low maintenance . Save the electronics. As ive had plenty of small issues before like the AC rarely not working. Radio rarely not working ect..

My income took a big hit via covid. So i dont wanna replace the yaris till 21 at earliest.

Lambourne's recommendation is probably the best place to start. High heat kills batteries, and the newer electronics in some vehicles start to have weird issues when a battery is going bad (but not totally dead). I have experienced strange electronic issue with a battery going bad in my car.

If you have a wet/flooded cell battery (traditional car battery), check it's acid levels (use distilled water to top it off & find a good tutorial on youtube, if you don't know how). If the fluid is good, you can then check if it has the proper charge, with a voltmeter, or you can pull it and take it to an auto parts store to have them run a load test. The best place to buy a battery is often Sams or Costco though. If the battery is bad, take a look at an AMG type (absorbed glass mat) as a replacement, as they are a bit safer, don't need water maintenance, last longer (purportedly), and don't have the risk of a leak fucking up the battery tray and anything under it.

If it's not the battery, Burren could be right, and it could be a fuse issue, but I would think that a fuse would throw codes. Is the service engine soon light coming on? If so, get the codes read. Again, most auto parts stores can do this, or you you can by a cheep bluetooth OBDII reader for 10 - 20 bucks from the Internets. Replacing or checking the fuses isn't hard, but it can be tedious w/o a code. There can be multiple fuse boxes in a vehicle, usually one in the engine bay, and one in the cab. You may need to pull each one and check it.

Other than that, internal electronic problems are hell to diagnose.
 
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Burren

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Other than that, internal electronic problems are hell to diagnose.

This is the big take-away, lol.

I had issues like you are describing on a Subaru back in 2004, which is why I suggested what I did. However, it literally could be anything in the line that controls car functions. The only reason I skipped over battery is because you said the car started, its just the ancillary functions were wonky.

Understanding that times are tough, there are auto parts stores that will read fault codes for you for free, if you are getting dash lights/errors. It's either AutoZone or Advanced Auto, I can't recall. They will even help with minor repairs for free; battery replacement, fuses, wipers, head/tail lights, etc.
 

Lanx

<Prior Amod>
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Anyone ever have electronic issues in high heat?

I have a 2012 Toyota Yaris. Recently when i turn it on in the high heat and humidity days we get now in RI the power steering, Turn signals, Ac, power windows, and airbag light will not turn on for generally 30 secs to 10 mins.

Usually takes a min or two on avg. Its annoying as i cant really drive it without the turn signals. So i have to wait to use it.

Looked on google cant find shit on this. Car has been super low mainttenance . Save the electronics. As ive had plenty of small issues before like the AC rarely not working. Radio rarely not working ect..

My income took a big hit via covid. So i dont wanna replace the yaris till 21 at earliest.
did you check to see if you have any open recalls?


this possible bad relay could cause your other shit to blip out, enter your vin at kbb here
 

Whidon

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I replaced the fuses was not that.

Huh thats interesting ill have to check that recall when i get a chance.

Problem has been better lately
I thought it was just bc a few days of cool weather since it took a minite to get power steering yesterday. But i just drove to work on the hottest day of the year and it went on like normal. Just like it has every other time past 3 days save the one time. So who knows. Would not be the first time car had some electrical issue go away on its own.

Im gonna replace the battery soon anyways. But i don't understand how that could be it. I thought the battery just turns shit and alternator on so i dont get how it could do somethimg like this but im not a car dude.

My sister admitted she spilled a coffee on the steering column when i let her use it last weekend. First issue with this was immediatly after so maybe that had something to do with it.
 

Rais

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Just to be clear. The car turns on, but those lights don't turn on for a random amount of time? Can you turn on the auxiliary power and test your headlights/windows etc to see if they work before you turn on the car? If they do then the following would apply.

If this is the case I would say it is the battery. The battery is low enough to turn on the car and is expended until the alternator recharges it shortly after. Go to Advance Auto Parts or whatever auto store you have. They will test your battery for free, and install it too without charging you. Cold then heat kills batteries fast. Even the heat kills them. Cold and heat wreck them.

I highly doubt it is from the coffee spilled especially if they do still work. There are too many different electronic fuses, circuits to be all related. Something would have blown to prevent a short. Your battery just doesn't have enough juice when it blows it load starting the car.
 

Cad

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I replaced the fuses was not that.

Huh thats interesting ill have to check that recall when i get a chance.

Problem has been better lately
I thought it was just bc a few days of cool weather since it took a minite to get power steering yesterday. But i just drove to work on the hottest day of the year and it went on like normal. Just like it has every other time past 3 days save the one time. So who knows. Would not be the first time car had some electrical issue go away on its own.

Im gonna replace the battery soon anyways. But i don't understand how that could be it. I thought the battery just turns shit and alternator on so i dont get how it could do somethimg like this but im not a car dude.

My sister admitted she spilled a coffee on the steering column when i let her use it last weekend. First issue with this was immediatly after so maybe that had something to do with it.

Does the car start readily, like the battery seems to be turning it quickly and such? Or does it kind of slowly turn and then catch?
 

Whidon

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The car turns on. But there is sometimes no power to the power steering, turn signals, windows and i think airbags as lights turn on for it.

Car starts fine.
 

Jysin

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My Land Rover is notorious for presenting strange electrical gremlins right before the battery dies. Might start just fine, but throw random engine codes, light and or wiper issues etc.

Maybe throw a battery in from another car to test?
 

Lambourne

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Might just be a bad cell on the battery. Gives you low voltage which the starter doesn't care about too much but the electronics sure do. After it's been running a while the alternator gets the voltage back up high enough for everything to work right.

It's a trivial thing to check for any repair shop with a volt meter which is why I asked if you had one. Don't just start throwing parts at it though.
 
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Lanx

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Might just be a bad cell on the battery. Gives you low voltage which the starter doesn't care about too much but the electronics sure do. After it's been running a while the alternator gets the voltage back up high enough for everything to work right.

It's a trivial thing to check for any repair shop with a volt meter which is why I asked if you had one. Don't just start throwing parts at it though.
yea looks easy enough
 
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Cad

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The car turns on. But there is sometimes no power to the power steering, turn signals, windows and i think airbags as lights turn on for it.

Car starts fine.

Anything is possible but that sounds like there's something fucky in the electronics, not necessarily the battery. But it's easy enough to replace a battery and see if it makes any difference.

Alternatively, try jump starting it (even though it starts fine) so you are using the other car's electrical system temporarily. That takes 2 minutes and if it starts up differently, then you know the battery is the issue.
 

BrutulTM

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How to diagnose electronic gremlins in cars...

tenor.gif
 
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Whidon

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So. I got out my multimeter an the battery and alternator both have fine voltage. However ive been mostly unable to repeat the problem at will so its only tested on normal start up. Happening mich less now. Onlu twice last week.
 

Lanx

<Prior Amod>
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So. I got out my multimeter an the battery and alternator both have fine voltage. However ive been mostly unable to repeat the problem at will so its only tested on normal start up. Happening mich less now. Onlu twice last week.
i read you should turn on all the electronics to max the power draw
headlights
highbeams
ac
etc
 

Rajaah

Honorable Member
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Maybe this is a good forum for this: Any advice on how to get rid of a car that's become a bit of an albatross? Fairly newer car, 2017, low mileage, perfect condition. Got completely fucked on the payment plan for it where they tacked on some stuff that I turned out to not even need, plus a sky-high interest rate because I let my credit get iffy. So at this point I'm gonna end up paying a lot more for the car than it's actually worth if I keep it.

Don't really need a car at this point so I'd like to get rid of it. Maybe I'll get something inexpensive to replace it, maybe not. Either way what's the best way to deal with something like this if you're inept enough to get into this situation like me? Some ideas:

1. I could sell the car to a private owner for a lump sum, which would probably pay off about two-thirds of what I owe at this point, maybe less. So I'd still be in a lot of debt and wouldn't have a car.

2. I could give it to someone else and let them take over the payments etc, though most people wouldn't want to take it on.

3. I could trade it back in at the dealership and get a better deal on something less-expensive, though I'd still owe a lot on this one plus I'd have a new car to pay for.

4. I could file for bankruptcy and just let the bank take it, which I'd be alright with at this point. Though it'd (further) trash my credit. Plus I'm not sure if I even can file for bankruptcy given that I'm not actually bankrupt by any means.

5. I could take out a phat insurance policy against arson, torch the car, then say the Antifa did it and it'd be totally believable. Potential downsides include jail time.

6. I could just straight-up pay off the entire car, though I'd be ponying up a lot more than it's worth, chalk up the lesson, and then try to get back as much of it as possible on a resale. This is the least-optimal solution given current circumstances though. Money isn't flowing like it usually does and might not be again for a while.

TL;DR: The bank fucked me, I don't really know how to handle car stuff to begin with, any advice appreciated.
 

Alasliasolonik

Toilet of the Mod Elect
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Maybe this is a good forum for this: Any advice on how to get rid of a car that's become a bit of an albatross? Fairly newer car, 2017, low mileage, perfect condition. Got completely fucked on the payment plan for it where they tacked on some stuff that I turned out to not even need, plus a sky-high interest rate because I let my credit get iffy. So at this point I'm gonna end up paying a lot more for the car than it's actually worth if I keep it.

Don't really need a car at this point so I'd like to get rid of it. Maybe I'll get something inexpensive to replace it, maybe not. Either way what's the best way to deal with something like this if you're inept enough to get into this situation like me? Some ideas:

1. I could sell the car to a private owner for a lump sum, which would probably pay off about two-thirds of what I owe at this point, maybe less. So I'd still be in a lot of debt and wouldn't have a car.

2. I could give it to someone else and let them take over the payments etc, though most people wouldn't want to take it on.

3. I could trade it back in at the dealership and get a better deal on something less-expensive, though I'd still owe a lot on this one plus I'd have a new car to pay for.

4. I could file for bankruptcy and just let the bank take it, which I'd be alright with at this point. Though it'd (further) trash my credit. Plus I'm not sure if I even can file for bankruptcy given that I'm not actually bankrupt by any means.

5. I could take out a phat insurance policy against arson, torch the car, then say the Antifa did it and it'd be totally believable. Potential downsides include jail time.

6. I could just straight-up pay off the entire car, though I'd be ponying up a lot more than it's worth, chalk up the lesson, and then try to get back as much of it as possible on a resale. This is the least-optimal solution given current circumstances though. Money isn't flowing like it usually does and might not be again for a while.

TL;DR: The bank fucked me, I don't really know how to handle car stuff to begin with, any advice appreciated.
Is this a Bugatti Chiron?

What the fuck did you buy that you couldnt afford? There are a whole lotta things here. Did you use a business account or personal to buy this?